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TheRascalKing's Denuo Novo First Order TK Build Thread


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  • 3 weeks later...

Thermal Detonator Accuracy Update


I received my new thermal detonator from my printer utilizing Jesse M's files, and am stoked on it. It is significantly lighter than the included solid resin TD, and more accurate for TLJ. The carriage has been printed in one piece on a large format resin machine by @fabricatorandfiends and the tube was done in PLA filament with a relatively low infill by @supershipley . 






How does it compare to the dimensions of the included TD? With a spraypaint cap added for mockup... close. Very very close. 




Prep work began on the printed TD carriage, as even with resin there were several visible print lines and dimples from supports that just wouldn't do.




Most areas weren't too bad, but some needed significant work with primer, glazing putty, and lots of sanding to get nice and level.




Back in primer...




And in final Behr Gloss White:








The tube was part of a small run by @supershipley:




And after some primer filler and wet sanding to rid it of visible print lines:




And finally, in Rustoleum matte black primer:





And finally, the whole 3D-printed TLJ thermal detonator, fully assembled with a bit of VHB to hold the tube in.









Edited by TheRascalKing
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Posted (edited)

Thigh Holster Accuracy Update


I had originally sourced a thigh holster from @R2Dan of Dantooine Props a while back from his first run that was fully symmetrical, but with all of the DN kits being delivered, fortunately Dan decided it was time for another run. This time, his V2 was updated to make it slightly asymmetrical, which I guess is more accurate, and more similar to the one included with the DN kit, but functional. He includes a beautiful resin riser piece, but decided not to run the wedge spacers this time either. Instead of just buying one, I organized a group purchase for my Garrison and had uhhhh... a few... shipped over from Germany for us. Because why buy something for yourself when you can make a spreadsheet and involve a dozen other people? :P




They feature the correct 3-piece metal design and include accurate, mostly countersunk Torx w/ security pin hardware and even driver bits, as well as the M6 button headed Torx w/ security pin bolts for the side of your blaster to mount it. I was very impressed with the quality overall.


The older V1 on the left, versus the new V2:



After disassembling it, the wedge was clean enough that it went right into primer and paint, but I did an extra couple of coats of filler and sanding on the sides of the metal parts where they were cut to fill in some imperfections.




And here it is when it's been sprayed white and reassembled!




This came out beautifully and I'm super happy with it! Install soon.


Edited by TheRascalKing
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On 3/3/2023 at 1:52 AM, TheRascalKing said:

After disassembling it, the wedge was clean enough that it went right into primer and paint, but I did an extra couple of coats of filler on the sides of the metal parts where they were cut to fill in some imperfections.


Filler is one way, but you could just sand the edges smooth as well, aluminium isn't that hard to sand :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Handguard Accuracy Update


I will be using a set of cast resin handguards from Dantooine Props instead of the included vaccuum-formed plastic ones. After cleaning up the mold release and some light priming and sanding, they were painted in the same Behr Gloss White and attached to my gloves using white 2" industrial Velcro.




These are super clean castings and make for a great upgrade!






And mounted to gloves (more discussion on gloves in my Soft Goods Discussion post)...



Edited by TheRascalKing
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Posted (edited)

I have also updated my Soft Goods Discussion post with more info and a brief comparison of the Endor Finders and TrooperBay gloves currently available for FOTKs, and my above post with my completed TLJ thermal detonator. I also finished the included solid resin Denuo Novo TD as a TFA variant using their included stickers and will figure out the best place to post that at some point, maybe even a comparison thread once completed so people can visualize the differences between the two suits. Idk. We'll see. Crossing a few items off this week and trying to forge ahead. Rainy weather and work have slowed me down lately, but I want to get this finished out soon, and still to a high standard!



Edited by TheRascalKing
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  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I have quite a few updates to include at some point, but I have been focusing primarily on actually finishing my suit and less on documenting, especially as I can add to this thread with additional photos of mentees I'll be helping build once I've kind of got this all figured out (hopefully). But let's go on a tangent real quick to hopefully help clear some things up - as much as Denuo Novo got right on this suit, and the fact that is a massive improvement in quality and design over the original "Alpha" TFA suits that were briefly somewhat available(?) from Anovos... they still messed some stuff up pretty bad. On a few of these, I remember early on thinking that I was going crazy, but they turned out to be just known errors in manufacturing.


Consider this all constructive feedback but unlikely to change, as it's not uncommon for even licensed makers to make concessions in order to make manufacturing easier or less expensive, or to appeal to a broader customer base. In addition, sometimes things are just lost (sometimes literally) in translation between the design (usually stateside) and manufacturing (usually in China), and other things are simply just missed entirely. Let's take a look at what DIDN'T go right on these suits (or at least the one delivered to me) and how we can potentially fix or improve them.


I'll flesh this out more and add pictures or any others that I'm forgetting, but let's start with:


- The forearms are shaped incorrectly at the wrist and should be larger and more square

- The forearms are molded incorrectly at the elbow and are indicated in the instructions to be cut in a shape that is not accurate (not TFA/TLJ/or "Finn Mod", really)

- The tall belt pouch is too short to accommodate the ABS panel

- All gaskets are sewn inside out, without velcro attached to a potentially L1/2 usable shiny side

- Forearm rails provided are TFA style, without a provision for a hex-headed bolt for TLJ

- The ABS Standard line TLJ helmet features TFA-style clips (fiberglass Premier seems to be correct)

- Several of the included templates in the instructions (like for the "kit-kats" and thigh holster) are just not remotely accurate for drilling holes


Though these are almost certainly intentional manufacturing concessions, let's acknowledge that:
- All of the resin pieces are beautifully cast, but very HEAVY - I will be replacing several of them

- The single-piece resin thermal detonator is more suited to TFA-style, than the 2 piece tube/carriage style for TLJ

- Many of the clips need the bottom of the casting reshaped to lay correctly where they go

- The included resin holster is not functional

- There are visible seams at the sides of the barrel at at the top of the chest/yoke at the shoulder necessary to allow for vacuum forming


I'll propose solutions for each at some point in each section of my build, then link them back here in the future, but hopefully at least making people aware will help!

Edited by TheRascalKing
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Loving the detail Justin.

Details as to what isn’t quite up to par with the CRL and how to make them so from different vendors is the kind of value I look for in build threads!

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Posted (edited)




25. Shin "Kit-Kat" Assembly


After prepping and painting your white of choice, it'll be time to attach the resin "kit-kat" accents that go on the LEFT, outer shin. 




NOTE that the holes on the included template ARE WRONG, DO NOT USE THEM. But you can still use the template to get the kit-kats positioned correctly on the paper, then poke new holes with a pencil into the predrilled recesses on the parts. Then use the template to drill out those NEW holes on your shin armor. You'll note that this is step 25 and comes before shin assembly, as I learned that this is much easier to do BEFORE gluing the two halves together, and had to use a phillips bit with a ratchet to screw them down, after adding a few drops of CA to the faces and kicking with NCF Quick.







26. Shin Assembly


Let's build a shin.




I'll try to take some additional photos in the future, but trim your two legs out, overlap them, and glue them together, using the clip recess as your guide for alignment and spacing. I used E6000, clamps, painter's tape, and a whole bunch of n52 Neodymium magnets.


















It's a prestigious award.



Edited by TheRascalKing
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Posted (edited)


23 Thigh Holster Assembly






24. Thigh Assembly








Edited by TheRascalKing
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