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TK-82077 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status [RS Prop] (1049)


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Mandatory Information

 

Costume =  Stormtrooper, A New Hope (Stunt) 
Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt

 

Name = Scott S.
TK ID = 82077
Forum Name = BeardedFett
Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31646
Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad

Armor = RS Propmasters (commission)
Helmet = RS Propmasters (interior painted, lens and padding upgraded, frown mesh added, cooling from ukswrath)

Armorer/Mentor = @TheRascalKing

 

Optional Information

 

Height = 5ft 10in or 177.8cm
Weight = 179lbs or 81.19kg
Boots = Imperial Boots
Canvas Belt = Imperial Issue
Holster = RS Propmasters 
Hand Plates = flexible latex from justjoseph63
Gloves = Double1 rubber chemical gloves
Neck Seal = RS Propmasters 

Undersuit = RS Propmasters 
Strapping = RascalSnaps
Blaster = RS Propmasters E-11

 

 

Armor Photos

 

Helmet Off (not adjusted)

amtP8Y4.jpg

 

Full Body Front

dDZDSr6.jpg

 

Full Body Back

E2B7o2m.jpg

 

Full Body Right

GDENdt5.jpgHHiyflo.jpg

 

Full Body Left

JWQaSza.jpg4ydksXj.jpg

 

Action Shot

ckr5QuS.jpg

 

Helmet Detail Photos 

 

Front

Gjb4xup.jpg

 

Back

4oLzoiz.jpg

 

Left

nUIzsTS.jpg

 

Right

rzVlAvf.jpg

 

Interior

 pbDZv2G.jpg

 

S-trim Detail

 1KBtPMG.jpg

 

Vocoder and Hovi Mic Tip Detail

kjGKSWZ.jpg

 

Lens Color (Green, backlit - upgraded from RS acetate)

BDN9aiG.jpg

 

 

Detail Photos (CRL Order)

 

Neckseal (RS Propmasters)

4QtJ3Ae.jpg

 

Shoulder bridge connection (glued in front, free floating, secured with elastic in back, white elastic strapping)

L3BGoB4.jpg

 

Interior Strapping Detail (RascalSnaps)

UCHoEBf.jpg

 

Forearm Wrist Return Edge (none present)

SAkfppr.jpg

 

Rubber Gloves & Handguards (flexible latex from justjoseph63, glued)

HzKjKaX.jpg8lGgrKT.jpg

 

Abdomen Button Panels

 c9M5WIw.jpg

 

Right Side "Han" Snap

hpJstqp.jpg

 

Left Side Rivets:

https://i.imgur.com/LGNtvQf.jpg

 

Cod to Posterior Strapping (2 male snaps, split rivet)

CKEcJHf.jpg

 

Ammo Belt (Imperial Issue canvas belt)

0AbYdoK.jpg

 

Thermal Detonator (slotted, pan head style screws)

6y3V9dH.jpg

pmsrqO7.jpg
 

Thigh Ammo Pack (single cap rivets)

E85Fi2G.jpgjN1aPDQ.jpg

inilsIZ.jpgqzo2pP2.jpg

 

Sniper Knee Attachment (glue)

yIyr3AB.jpg8sKnKyP.jpg

 

Holster Attachment (2 Chicago screws)

hioUY29.jpg

 

Boots (Imperial Boots)

I7FivCe.jpgerpUnvn.jpg

oe8CLcj.jpg

 

Blaster (RS Propmasters E-11)

lRYwmFf.jpgxXFKDbG.jpg

yjjKsJZ.jpg

 

Thank you for looking, and I appreciate your feedback! Long live the Empire!

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Hi, Scott, and thank you for your application for ANH Stunt EI!

 

CRL and EIB Application Requirements:

All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry.  Congratulations!  :salute:

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly;

In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team.  Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that  we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions.

 

Before we begin, we realize that this is a commission build with modifications, and in some areas it's difficult to tell which from which! However we will go over everything and add some advice.  Many of the items shown are fairly straightforward/easy fixes, but some will require some elbow grease.  You have folks in your corner in the SCG that are on the ready to help.  The items in this first area are only suggestions that we hope you will address, so keep that in mind.  On that note, let's get started, brother!

 

As seen in the reference image, we are strongly suggesting that you trim down the ends of the brow trim.  Easy fix!

 

                                                                                               Reference images

F8ILXNY.jpg           N20GqIA.jpg  5kNncaa.jpg

 

Although not a requirement, the screws on the ears should ideally align with the rear angle of the trap above them as shown, and the bottom should angle back more.  This can be a challenge, but definitely doable.

 

                                                                                                Reference images

  S8nmqnP.jpg         FpYOXfP.jpg  hTtw3Sg.jpg

 

The strapping should be adjusted in a few areas for a more uniform look.  Note how the right bicep and forearm sit higher than the left, which also leaves a larger gap between the wrist opening and hand guard.  The left side is spot-on!  Just dropping the right bicep down an inch or so should take care of everything.

                        

                        

vUjRVpT.jpg

 

  Notice in the screen used examples below how the rivet is not so close to the corner.  I suggest moving them inward.  This will require some skill, but the folks in your Squad that may be able to help.                                                                                                                                                                                                           

                                                                                                  Reference images

PFQw3tj.jpg          9ZEIlNh.jpg oplcT5M.jpg                  

 

While some troopers have them, note that the coils on E-11s were only seen in promotional photos and not in the film.  While it will not affect approval, we recommend that you reduce he number of them that you have.

                                                                               Reference image

xXFKDbG.jpg.8d048556ff4650b91d7ea73f660d0ef0.jpg          T3TtRPi.jpg                                                                                            

 

Centurion Requirements:

In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval.  Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper.

 

Although we allow a bit of leeway in certain instances, unfortunately your tube stripes on on both sides will need to be repositioned.  As seen in the reference images they should be about a standard pencil width from the cheek.  Replacements are pretty easy to get, and this is easier than you may think.

 

                                                                                                                                                                                                           Reference images

ApAviHR.jpg   UTpQGqq.jpg      u1BZSuP.jpg  LjHLEjd.jpg  Ep0xKNe.jpg

 

Easy fix here!  For Level 3, ear screws "..shall be... countersunk...".  2 seconds with a small screwdriver and you are golden!  (Don't go too tight, though). ;)

 

                                                                       Reference image

rzVlAvf.jpg.e4db74281aea50aa6012092621f16e43.jpg       fjvxyNq.png

 

As stated in the CRL, there should be minimal gaps between the sides of the bells and the chest/back plate.  The tops of the bells should also be VERY close (think touching or almost touching) to the shoulder bridges.  If you tighten up the shoulder bell/shoulder bridge connection that should take care of both issues!

 

                                                                                                                                                                     Reference image

OHpywY0.jpg   b3dIa9d.jpg       PP6408R.jpg

 

As seen below, your ABS belt is sitting a little too far to the right which is throwing off the symmetrical look, causing the left drop box to face forward and the right one to be almost on your side.  Another one of those items which is not specifically listed in the CRL but which is seen in the screen caps.  Moving it just half an inch to the left will make a huge difference!

 

                                                                                                                                                                   Reference images                                                                                      

9EB8BGI.jpg           r9xmXW0.jpg  J0aOxuT.jpg  1Kf0QQQ.jpg  IMrHmYc.jpg

 

In certain cases where a trooper is 6' or taller we allow a gap between the bottom of the back plate and top of the kidney, but since you are 5'10" (like most of the original TKs in the film) that gap should not be nearly that wide.  I would tighten up the elastic strapping that connects them, which will close the gap but still give you some maneuverability.

 

                                                                                                                                                                           Reference images

jZat5oU.jpg  KfdMHia.jpg  eJfqanP.jpg 

 

N1SvHTA.jpg

 

You have the best of both worlds here-  screws that mimic the bracket system and straps.  (NICE, and I am so totally going to steal that idea)!  However, the screw heads need to be painted white.. yet another simple fix!

                                                                                                Reference image

BSuxViX.jpg       CyJ6LHu.jpg

 

Another mystery here.. for some reason the builder(s) have placed the upper ab and kidney rivets too far from the top and they (and the ones beneath them) do not line up horizontally.  I know this seems like an insanely trivial item, but since Centurion is the highest level of accuracy we must insist that they be moved.  As I mentioned, we have the know-how if you have the time and patience!

                                                                                          Reference images

d57QXXS.jpg          V8zC96I.jpg  7gVuiHl.jpg

 

This is a fairly easy fix... as stated in the CRL, "The corners of the ABS belt shall be trimmed at a 45° angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt".  It won't be perfect, but short of buying a new cloth belt the easiest way to fix this is by trimming down the ends as shown.

 

                                                                                   Reference images

QSYKFnq.jpg     pgRlBmS.jpg  p845kA7.jpg

 

 As per the CRL for Level 3, the (outside edges) of the drop boxes are "...vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt...".  Moving the drop boxes into the correct position(s) and then adding a few dabs of glue behind the white elastic straps will do the trick.

 

                                                                                                                      Reference images

3Mki40E.jpg   J6d1Dhy.jpg          aVMPB3H.jpg  R2r2wWF.png  kbA5WKq.jpg

 

Last up is an issue we see often, where the ridge on the sniper knee does not align with the one on the top of the calf.

Although this is actually a requirement for Level 2, we tend to relax this item but it is required for Level 3.

I know you used CA glue for this piece so it is definitely going to be a challenge to remove, but if you can successfully get it off without damaging it or your calf piece:

First you will need start by removing any excess glue.  Afterward, it will need to be glued back, with bottom not so close to the front seam of the calf.  I have included an image (last pic) of an RS build that shows how it should look.  Yes, there is a gap between the bottom of the plate and the seam, but the ridges align perfectly.

 

                                                                                                                           Reference images                                                         RS sniper plate

FdWv7r7.jpg           ToTkeJt.png  MIolviU.jpg       7gdMYGC.jpg

 

Again, CONGRATS and welcome to the ranks, brother!  I know you have some issues to work on, but I have been in touch with Justin and if you are willing he is ready to help you get that Centurion badge under your name.

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  • justjoseph63 changed the title to TK-82077 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status [RS Prop] (1049)

Thank you all! I appreciate all the feedback as well.  Definitely a big thank you to Justin for his expertise and time.  I learned a ton and am much more comfortable in approaching modifications and handling of my armor. 

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11 hours ago, BeardedFett said:

 I learned a ton and am much more comfortable in approaching modifications and handling of my armor. 

 

That's the spirit, Scott!  Looking forward to seeing the mods on your Centurion submission!!  :jc_doublethumbup:

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Newbe  here working on my Level 1 approval in the Bloodfin Garrison. 
On your review of the helmet details, you don’t mention the number of bumps on the ear bars. L2 & L3 CRLs both say there should be 3 bumps, not 4.

Most helmets & replacement parts I’ve seen are 4 bumps. 
Do you know a source for the 3 bump ears pieces?

Great review that I’m learning a lot about TK armor build!

 

Edited by Oldracer
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6 minutes ago, Oldracer said:

Newbe  here working on my Level 1 approval in the Bloodfin Garrison. 
On your review of the helmet details, you don’t mention the number of bumps on the ear bars. L2 & L3 both say there should be 3 bumps, not 4.

Most helmets & replacement parts I’ve seen are 4 bumps. 
Do you know a source for the 3 bump ears pieces?

Great review that I’m learning a lot about TK armor build!

 

Double check your CRLs there - you may be thinking of the ANH Hero CRL, which mandates 3-bump ears. All ANH Stunt TKs should have 4 bumps, and Stunt are by far the more popular option. You should always check with whoever made your helmet and purchase parts from them so the color matches. Off the top of my head, I know TM and AM both make Hero style helmets with 3 bumps but likely others as well.

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Stunt

Basic 

  • The “ear” bars have three or four bumps and are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. Painting the bumps with rank stripes (highlighted) in black is optional.

L2 

  • Ear bars have four bumps only.
    • Not three.

 

 

Hero

Basic

The “ear” bars may have three or four bumps and are grey or painted grey, with a black outline

 

L2

  • Ear bars have three bumps only, not four.

 

 

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4 hours ago, TheRascalKing said:

 

Double check your CRLs there - you may be thinking of the ANH Hero CRL, which mandates 3-bump ears. All ANH Stunt TKs should have 4 bumps, and Stunt are by far the more popular option. You should always check with whoever made your helmet and purchase parts from them so the color matches. Off the top of my head, I know TM and AM both make Hero style helmets with 3 bumps but likely others as well.

I’m working off of the Hero CRL.

The kit I purchased was for a Hero configuration from Shepperton Design Studios in the UK, Andrew Ainsworth’s company.
He proclaims he completed the final Stormtrooper design and produced the first 50 suits for Lucas back in 1976.

He claims what he sells today are made from the original molds that he still owns today.

He has the whole story on his web site Original Stormtrooper dot com.

The Hero helmet he sells has 4 bumps on the ear bars.

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23 minutes ago, Oldracer said:

I’m working off of the Hero CRL.

The kit I purchased was for a Hero configuration from Shepperton Design Studios in the UK, Andrew Ainsworth’s company.
He proclaims he completed the final Stormtrooper design and produced the first 50 suits for Lucas back in 1976.

He claims what he sells today are made from the original molds that he still owns today.

He has the whole story on his web site Original Stormtrooper dot com.

The Hero helmet he sells has 4 bumps on the ear bars.

Not many purchase from SDS these days, unfortunately his kits do need a little work, I may have passed on this info before but in case I haven't here are a couple of thread may be worth a read

Great website about the history of Stormtroopers (and other costumes) Hero page here

Hero's had different ear section casting with 3 centre ridges - rebuilt due to damage caused pulling all the Stunt ears from their vac-form moulds.

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