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Nick´s ANH Stunt TK | Centurion Build WIP


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I would do one on the top. one near the bottom and one in the center.  In my personal opinion, the way Mark @MightyAtom has done his is ideal, and is the way I do mine.  Let me explain:

 

1.  Note how there is no gap in the connection.  A slight overlap is ok, though.

 

YWgpIjX.jpg     AK4htpE.jpg?1

 

2.  Note that he has used the "double snap" method (I swear by it) for the right side connection.  It's a little extra work, but you know that connection will never come undone during a troop.  Trust me.  I use black 2" elastic for the right side (doubled over when setting the snaps).  The reason being is that when suiting up, it's MUCH easier to connect (snap) them.  There is very little room, and having elastic instead of Nylon will help.

 

Make sure when installing the rivets on the left side that you follow the diagram below for measurements.  Note that the CENTER of the rivet is right at 10 mm from the side, the rivets are directly across from each other and that the tops of the connection are even *second diagram).

 

 o7XCZa2.jpg?1  XopZQyP.jpg?1

 

Last up:  Some like to use ABS plates to attach the bottom part of the snaps to armor as seen below.  I am not a fan of this unless the surface is perfectly flat.  I use Nylon and glue it to the armor using E-6000 and clamps.  The reason is that I find Nylon conforms to the curved surface better.  I also suggest NOT using CA (super) glue.  Some folks have had success with it, but it can (and does) get brittle over time and the connection can fail.

 

tpjXXwF.jpg?1

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Do you have access to an extra rivet? When I built my armor, RS had supplied an extra for cases like this (which I did need).

 

Maybe you could contact RS and ask them for a replacement, they usually have a pretty accommodating customer service. Good luck!

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I wouldn't worry too much about the damaged one.  I certainly wouldn't ping someone for that on an approval at any level ("battle damage"). ;)

 

Alternatively you could remove it and put it on the cod, which is not really noticeable.  Here is an excerpt from my rivet tutorial that may help:

 

  REMOVING RIVETS

 

Spit type:

 

1.  Using a thin bladed screwdriver, CAREFULLY pry up each side the "legs".  POINT SCREWDRIVER AWAY FROM YOU WHEN DOING THIS!!!

2.  Using a set of heavy duty pliers, pinch the legs together until they meet

3.  Washer will now slide off and rivet can be easily removed

 

               1                                        2                                         3

0JhKy2Y.jpg?3   VbfdeRW.jpg  oBSwkMB.jpg?1

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Day 13:

 

The return edges on the forearms and shoulders are almost done. Hopefully it looks as good on the pictures as it does in reality. There is only on part on which I´m not sure about: the upper part of the inside of the forearms. The shall be completely removed I believe.

 

FXLQ21H.jpg

jEnJPyC.jpg

iYUNiTB.jpg

YBqzcCD.jpg

UuLasKg.jpg

 

Regarding the torso, I´m planning on finishing it tomorrow.

 

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10 minutes ago, Nick the Trooper said:

There is only on part on which I´m not sure about: the upper part of the inside of the forearms. The shall be completely removed I believe.

 

You're  right . bellow some references

 

1YKX8TH.jpg

 

49rUNZX.jpg?1  WDIc5wB.jpg?1

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One thing to consider is that during a troop the majority of the time you will be holding your E-11 with your arms bent..  When dry fitting (before gluing) make sure that the return edges on the inside top of the forearm don't dig into you.  If the top opening is even the slightest bit snug in that area those edges will cause chafing (we call it "armor bite") after a short time.  If it's loose enough you can get away with the extra return edge there, but if you find this out afterward and trim them down the top can be too loose.  Some folks can get away with it, some can't.. it's a matter of comfort.

 

haDbmZa.jpg?2  E1WEDOl.jpg

 

Whether you remove that area or not it will not affect approval at any level, but the majority of those seen/used onscreen had no return edges.  Either way you do it just make sure the edges are sanded down really smooth.  ;)

t8dyxm7.jpg?1    rLWthxa.jpg?1

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  • 2 weeks later...

Little update: 

 

Hello everyone! It´s been a while since my last update.

Currently I´m unable to build a whole lot because I got Covid and feel pretty sick. On top of that in 3 weeks I need to write my final exams so studying is key right now. Currently I´m not sure when I will be posting new updates. 

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Little update: 
 
Hello everyone! It´s been a while since my last update.
Currently I´m unable to build a whole lot because I got Covid and feel pretty sick. On top of that in 3 weeks I need to write my final exams so studying is key right now. Currently I´m not sure when I will be posting new updates. 

Get well soon, Trooper. :-)
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Hopefully you get over it soon, good luck with the exams, armor will be there waiting for you when you have more time ;) 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone! 

 

Finally I´m able to build again. Mr. Cornelius Virus thankfully didn´t bother me for long. Anyway here is what I´m working on today:

 

J85f0XE.jpg

isk5udt.jpg

 

What do you think about the placement of the cover strip? I wanted to do 24mm base and up a 20mm strip on it.

 

Thank you all for the kind words!:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

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5 hours ago, Nick the Trooper said:

What do you think about the placement of the cover strip? I wanted to do 24mm base and up a 20mm strip on it.

 

 

 

Hi Nick, the position looks ok, and typically , front cover strips go 20 mm front and 25 back.  Before gluing the cover strips could you please post a photo as bellow?

 

eF1gW76.jpg

 

jTMcfOJ.png

 

 

:salute:

 

 

 

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Hey there! 

Am 13.5.2022 um 15:48 schrieb TKSpartan:

 

 

Hi Nick, the position looks ok, and typically , front cover strips go 20 mm front and 25 back.  Before gluing the cover strips could you please post a photo as bellow?

 

eF1gW76.jpg

 

jTMcfOJ.png

 

 

:salute:

 

 

 

 

Here are the pictures you requested TKSpartan (at least I hope so :P) .

Little note on the side, I only did the right thigh up to this point.

 

l3SCBFk.jpg

rrZ0ze0.jpg

 

 

The back side isn´t quite ready yet because I would like the front to be finished first.

IkHDwSR.jpg

Bu9mADN.jpg

 

:smiley-sw013:

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Sorry to horn in, but isn't that two inner thigh pieces put together? I haven't seen thigh armor that looked symmetrical like that. The outside edge should cover up higher, yes? While the inner edge dips lower for crotch room. 

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3 hours ago, revlimiter said:

Sorry to horn in, but isn't that two inner thigh pieces put together? I haven't seen thigh armor that looked symmetrical like that. The outside edge should cover up higher, yes? While the inner edge dips lower for crotch room. 

Yes those are inner pieces. 
Hopefully Nick hasn’t glued them yet or used E-6000.

As for coverstrips: the rule of thumb is to cover as much of that flat area as possible, preferably all of it. 
Sizes: In general. 
Arms 15mm.

Thighs, front and back 20mm.

Shins, front 20mm.

Back of shins 25.

These can vary depending on the Troopers need of more room but one should avoid bigger than 20 on the arms and 25 on the legs. :salute:

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32 minutes ago, Nick the Trooper said:

Thankfully I didn´t glue them together yet. So no problem yet. ;)

That was exactly what I wanted to be sure  about the two halves being correctly sorted. :jc_doublethumbup:

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Bit hard to see in the images but try to have no gaps between the lower ridges of the thigs ;) 

 

If you have any gaps you can always add a small strip of ABS behind or fill with ABS paste or Sugru or other similar product

 

Examples of filled gaps in screen used ridges

 

 SAsVHGq.jpg?1  xpiaJMj.jpg?1  4oHj06f.jpg?1

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