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TK-19984 "March to Centurion" ANH TK Centurion Build Thread


Ebio Amisi

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Greetings!

In this thread, I am going to try and document my journey from Expert Infantry to Centurion. Any tips, tricks and general pointers welcome :D

I'll start by going through the improvements I plan to make before submitting for Centurion:

 

Part 1 - E11 Upgrades - Completed!

 

1a) Upgrade Hengster Counter to have an actual "counter number" and plastic face. Ideally to have my own TK number as the number on the counter Completed

1b) Upgrade the scope so that it has real lens and a proper "scope decal" Completed

1c) Fill in as many gaps / bubbles in the moulding as much as possible (probably using green stuff or liquid green stuff) Completed

1d) Cut out the trigger area so that it isn't one huge piece and looks more realistic Completed

1e) Repaint the whole blaster so that it has a more "factory finished" look to it with light weather (following guide Here) Completed

 

Part 2 - Helmet Upgrades - Completed!

 

2a) Move s-band so that the connect sits under the vocoder for better concealment Completed

2b) Improve the internal helmet padding so that i don't have to totally rely on the chin strap to hold the helmet in place Completed

2c) purchase and install a fan system (Troopacoola) Completed

2d) cut down and install the eye lens individually using sugru for a better internal look Completed

2e) Countersink ear screws Completed

2f) Trim screws internally so they don't stick out as much Completed

2g) touch up vocoder to make more symetrical Completed

2h) paint the internals of the helmet black once all of the above has finished Completed

2i) black duct piping to cover the electronics at the back of the helmet and to further reduce visability into the helmet from a low angle Completed

 

Part 3 - Armour Upgrades Completed!

 

3a) Ab plate buttons - get the corners as close to 90 degress as possible Completed

3b) shorten the smaller ab-plate button Completed

3c) New thigh armour strapping system so that it sits better when moving around Completed

3d) Replace existing slightly warped hand guards - silicone or latex? Order in progress

3e) Reduce gap between shoulder armour and chest armour - return edge/strapping/larger shoulder armour? Completed

3f) reduce gap between abdomen and kidney plates - diet/going for a run! Completed

3g) voice amplifier system (Aker MR1505) Completed

 

Part 4 - Carry Case Upgrades Completed!

 

4a) E11 holster Completed

4b) Handle for carry case Completed

4c) TK number and Imperial cog stencil on sides of case Completed

4d) Painting pattern on lid Completed

4e) Repair kit? Completed

4f) Long shoe horn Completed

 

Aaaaand i think that is pretty much everything. I've started this a little late as I've already started the work on a few of the above and have got parts/bits on order already.

 

Will try and update as often as I can with how things are going but the biggest one for me is going to be losing the weight i need to fit into the armour so i can meet "3f"! I'm currently doing Dry Jan and I'm going to try and start going for a run once a week.

 

Looking forward to the "March to Centurion" and thank you to all who have helped me get this far and have continue to provide support and advice.

 

All the best,

 

Ben

Edited by Ebio Amisi
Updating progress with tasks
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8 hours ago, Ebio Amisi said:

08aec27b4b4f36670da2a3286de459e1.jpg

Case handle installed - Pretty basic but it is comfy and gets the job done!

You could also use a piece of rubber pipe or pvc tube for a smoother handle

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1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You could also use a piece of rubber pipe or pvc tube for a smoother handle


Good shout - had a spare racket grip lying around though, so i've used that for the moment. Very soft! Will use that until it wears out and then source some pipe/tubing

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I also think I've managed to fix the issue with my gloves - This YouTube video was really useful. It suggested heating the latex with a heat gun. I'd only tried hot water before. Once they were heated, i wrapped them in a paper towel and then clamped the paper towel to hold the hand guards in shape. This is the end result:

DY2Yyk4.jpg?1

 

Is this better than before? They are much flatter and now concave instead of convex.

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Ab plates are looking great, hard to tell with your hand guards but they look ok to me.

Perhaps a side by side before/after image will do the trick.

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11 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Ab plates are looking great, hard to tell with your hand guards but the look ok to me.

Perhaps a side by side before/after image will do the trick.

 

 

Unforutantely the hand guards have, overnight, gone back to the old position. I'm going to try heating them and leaving them clamped for longer and this might help. Either way, this is a before/after:

 

Before:

 

 

 

1939514946_Screenshot_20220114-172256_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.c6c84f543d3f1eb802480b20c671d2ab.jpg

 

439407677_Screenshot_20220114-172241_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.5e05ee3b25c2fa1a4965c153c2752b5f.jpg

 

 

After

 

DY2Yyk4.jpg?1

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908863f29a65e01e1bdfc42ae71fc8eb.jpg

Pic contains:

- Lens for E11 scope
- strapping and clasps for thigh armour suspended system and the e11 holster for the case
- acrylic sheet for the hungstler counter on the e11
- Sugru for the eye lens in the helmet

I’ve got a lot of work to do now!

Will update once I’ve made more progress


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Update time!

The lens for the E-11 are both too small :( so have ordered ones that are a bit larger and should fit correctly.

I’ve also picked up all the paints I need for the helmet internals and E-11 as well as cloth for the helmet padding I want to upgrade.

In addition, I’ve managed to install my TroopaCoola fan system. Excellent piece of kit, really easy to put into place.

Had to try a couple of positions to make sure I could still hear with the fans on and to make sure that my mic doesn’t pick up anything with them running. The set close to my jawline with an upward facing position seemed to work best.

The battery I have at the moment is a little larger than ideal, so it doesn’t fit in the helmet very well. Will look at getting something more suitable but for what I had laying about the house, it works fine.

Cable management of the system is complete and I’ve removed it in prep for painting the internal matte black once the other upgrades are complete.

993b9f4aac9952015bec56bcd4a8f0e7.jpg


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Update time!

The lens for the E-11 are both too small default_sad.png so have ordered ones that are a bit larger and should fit correctly.

I’ve also picked up all the paints I need for the helmet internals and E-11 as well as cloth for the helmet padding I want to upgrade.

In addition, I’ve managed to install my TroopaCoola fan system. Excellent piece of kit, really easy to put into place.

Had to try a couple of positions to make sure I could still hear with the fans on and to make sure that my mic doesn’t pick up anything with them running. The set close to my jawline with an upward facing position seemed to work best.

The battery I have at the moment is a little larger than ideal, so it doesn’t fit in the helmet very well. Will look at getting something more suitable but for what I had laying about the house, it works fine.

Cable management of the system is complete and I’ve removed it in prep for painting the internal matte black once the other upgrades are complete.

993b9f4aac9952015bec56bcd4a8f0e7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some research would suggest that I might actually have quite a small power bank already, even if it is a little bit of a tight fit in the helmet.

I’ve got an Anker PowerCore II 1000mAh which measures 9.5cm x 6.2cm x 2.2cm

I can’t seem to find anything slimmer in depth than that - so probably best to stick with it I guess!


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Really depends how much room you have, I use a 4 x AA battery pack and only run one fan at a time, fits in nicely in the bottom curve of the helmet, a few in this thread may give you other ideas.

 

 

 

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For E-11 lens and a cheap mod is use a CD for the relfective appearance and use the clear CD cover for the lens.

 

iEKLIL8.jpg

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