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TK19984 - Requesting help for EIB / Centurion pre-approval / points of improvement


Ebio Amisi
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Hey Guys!

 

Looking for a quick guide on where best to start with EIB / Centurion improvements to my ANH: Stunt TK armour.

 

I'm aware that I will need to repaint the vocoder for example, but is there anything else glaringly obvious the I should be worrying out?

 

Q22KXts.jpg

isGtOzW.jpg

OomOwnF.jpg

Mvo0vi6.jpg

M9nO7xJ.jpgtH7Mn3Q.jpg

XDjfCCo.jpg

 

xE8LvH8.jpg9zKSQUa.jpg

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Great work, a few things to address.

Rotate (shorten clips) the TD so the O can be seen.

isGtOzW.thumb.jpg.e85185f4afbb81a3e1f4263704f34dfe.jpgENBGgGW.jpg?1

 

Raise belt a touch so the belt is just under or touching the last ab button

OomOwnF.jpg

The top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels.  A slight overlap is suggested, but not required

 

8XAwYOf.jpg?1  Nvimd6R.jpg?1  N8trEfM.jpg?1

 

Drop boxes align to end of plastic belt. Also tighten strapping between ab and kidney, a slight gap there:

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor.

 

Also corners of the plastic belt should touch the fabric belt

  • Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.
  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

xE8LvH8.thumb.jpg.65ff3ec87663a537a4a6d0a7c182fbed.jpg

Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

 

      JuwSduC.jpg?1  vo0s2dK.png?1  qwMnIyo.jpg?1  cYrWLyH.jpg?1

 

Butt plate is overlapping the kidney, adding V tabs may help

Q6j9pfd.jpg.a4117fe435ff0f295150e3df442a353a.jpg

 

Handplates appear to be curled, are they attached properly to the gloves? You may be able to shorten the gap between the shoulder bells and shoulder straps

M9nO7xJ.thumb.jpg.b0d16f7fb4321dc1f917931a7f45441e.jpg

 

latest?cb=20130318061027

 

A little hard to see your blaster, just make sure there is no weathering on the grip or T tracks as they were black plastic ;) 

Vocoder looks a little narrow, top middle

Should be no paint on gums, remove excess

Paint white rim on mic tips (hovi's)

Mvo0vi6.jpg

Mvo0vi6.thumb.jpg.a0caac796fe236b9aee27d7feb32c4ea.jpg

 KKZqeB8.jpg?2   IMNaNgw.jpg?2  9ZBQOLM.jpg?3  

 

 rmMCj1s.jpg?1   WYFQFmd.jpg?2

 

s4AllTr.jpg?1

 

Belt is on an angle. You may also be able to reduce the gap around the base of your helmet by modding your padding inside the helmet. 

Your neck seal is sticking out on the right side back

Could add abs paste to the gaps between the thighs on lower ridges

isGtOzW.jpg 14104751_isGtOzW(1).jpg.a3050b80f2c3b9983a828883cd5e6930.jpg

E5L7eXO.jpg?1BEY3WIy.jpg?1

 

Just a few tweaks, also having a mirror handy is great to check for gaps and alignments.

 

Good luck with EIB, looking forward to seeing your application soon.

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Could also move the elastic straps backwards on your shoulder straps, this will help pull them closer to the backplate, yours are in the middle of the elastic at present ;) 

XDjfCCo.thumb.jpg.b3c2ae26350f813dc957ed5331c736af.jpg 

 FAKhPZ2.jpg?1

 

 

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Hey trooper! Looking good so far. As someone who went though EIB and Centurion recently (last 12 months), I can say that providing detail photos is a great way to diagnose any required changes.

If you take a look over the CRL and note the requirements at EIB and Centurion, then provide photos, it will make it easier for others to help out. For example, a close-up photo of the thigh ammo pack, close ups of your sniper plate (all angles), close up front on of your boots, close up of shoulders, etc. It looks like you're close anyway, as Glenn has noted above, but these finer details will yield the information you're after.

Sent from my Imperial Communicator



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Hey guys!

Gotten around to checking my kit over and hand a couple of questions as I didn’t build it originally myself:

a) With the Hovi Mic painting, is it just the tips or the interior of the mics as well?

B) if it is the interior is painted as well, does that mean the whole interior or just the sides?

c) with the hand plates, what would be best used to glue them back down? e6000 glue? Would it help to heat them and move them back into shape first with a hair dryer?

d) what is the best way to remove excess paint from the helmet? Rubbing alcohol? Scalpel blade? Something else? This is to fix the paint around the gums

Thanks again for all your help guys!


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27 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:



a) With the Hovi Mic painting, is it just the tips or the interior of the mics as well?  For ANH Stunt, the entire interior and the rims.

rmMCj1s.jpg?1

B) if it is the interior is painted as well, does that mean the whole interior or just the sides?  Yes sir.

c) with the hand plates, what would be best used to glue them back down? e6000 glue? Would it help to heat them and move them back into shape first with a hair dryer?

I would (pardon the pun) stick with E-6000.  CA (super) glue can get brittle over time and the bond can fail (again).

d) what is the best way to remove excess paint from the helmet? Rubbing alcohol? Scalpel blade? Something else? This is to fix the paint around the gums

Any non acetone paint remover, some cotton swabs, toothpicks and a few paper towels should do the trick.  If you take off too much, you can always re-paint the edges.  You really don't need a lot taken off, so it should go pretty quickly!

gvJCNAd.jpg

 

While you have your paints out, I would suggest extending the paint on the ridges(2nd from the outside ones) just a bit. ;)

 

JQ6woax.jpg?2             748AVDU.jpg?2  rX5Pzz4.jpg?1

 

 

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39 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:

Help with latex hand guards.

They appear to be stuck on properly but seem to have warped into this curve.

How do I fix this? Would a hot water bath work?

eaf3f9b32ab6bab029cbf5cdca2a9c53.jpg


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I think the curves are fine, how do they look when worn? If the curve isn't noticable when you're hand is in it, I personally wouldn't worry about it 

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42 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:

Also, for the frown, is this good enough or does more paint need to be removed?

9f6f539b9fc14a9c9064175322008f99.jpg


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Could use some more clean up, I have roughly 1mm of white between the gray and the actual gum. Don't be afraid to remove too much, you can always add more. 

 

41 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:

One last thing, is the brow on my helmet high enough?

e891725b74aefbadcf20d93856e9f0cc.jpg


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Seems like a good height. Do you like the brow height? I know some people for accuracy would go higher, but I personally like an agrier trooper so I like it lower. But I think if you're within range of acceptable, millimeters are just preference.

 

Side note, I'd clean up the eye sockets a bit, remove some of the edging that makes it seem like your carved out the eye hole.

 

Screenshot_20211204-061144_Chrome.jpg

Edited by fishgoh0nk
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Might be the angle, so this might not be fully accurate, but here's what I'd go for:

 

ZFs1UZu.png

 

Otherwise, I'd go with what Fishgoh0onk already pointed out.

 

Good job on the Hovi Mic tips, BTW! :duim:

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Seems like a good height. Do you like the brow height? I know some people for accuracy would go higher, but I personally like an agrier trooper so I like it lower. But I think if you're within range of acceptable, millimeters are just preference.
 
Side note, I'd clean up the eye sockets a bit, remove some of the edging that makes it seem like your carved out the eye hole.
 
Screenshot_20211204-061144_Chrome.jpg.f35fcbf2408b9a90ec0fcea74d81b81e.jpg

Thanks for the tips!

The gloves are quite curved. What would be the best way to fix this?

Cheers!

Ben


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Any paint on the gums should be removed

Comparison

e891725b74aefbadcf20d93856e9f0cc.jpggallery_12157_36_77206.jpggallery_12157_36_21761.jpg

 

Brow height is ok, normally a little higher for "Stunt" version but should be fine.

comparisons:

                                                                                 ANH Stunt

                WI2bP5F.jpg?1  Mcn1ygN.jpg?1  oZJo3tr.jpg?2

 

                                                                                                       ANH Hero

                       gPW67ck.jpg?1   KzPKam5.jpg?1  vCMA48e.jpg?1

 

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For the glove curvature, you want to add more glue around the edges to keep it down. E6000 is pretty easy to clean up, so a little over the edge is ok, just peel it off after it dries. Don't try to clean while wet, just makes a mess. The thicker it is, the easier it peels .

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For the glove curvature, you want to add more glue around the edges to keep it down. E6000 is pretty easy to clean up, so a little over the edge is ok, just peel it off after it dries. Don't try to clean while wet, just makes a mess. The thicker it is, the easier it peels .

Thanks for the advice on this, however the latex has glue almost the whole way to the edge at the moment already.

The latex pieces themselves are curved, so I’m wondering how I can straighten them.

Would you have any tips for doing this?


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43 minutes ago, Ebio Amisi said:

The latex pieces themselves are curved, so I’m wondering how I can straighten them.
Would you have any tips for doing this?

I haven't seen this happen with hand guards before, normally when a rubber/silicon bends it's pretty much stuck in that position, only thing I could think off would be add some stiff cardboard inside and perhaps have them in the sun on a hot day, then once hot add some weight on top of them, may be enough to help straighten but not guaranteed.

 

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I haven't seen this happen with hand guards before, normally when a rubber/silicon bends it's pretty much stuck in that position, only thing I could think off would be add some stiff cardboard inside and perhaps have them in the sun on a hot day, then once hot add some weight on top of them, may be enough to help straighten but not guaranteed.
 

Thanks I’ll give this a try!


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