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Doggydoc’s AP ANH stunt build


Doggydoc
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Thanks for all of the tips,  I did try paint stripper, but it didn’t take it off, I am restarting the prints now at about 60% speed and dropped the layer height from 1.2 to 0.8 mm. 
here’s to E-11 2.0

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok. So after a week of reprinting parts, I have caught back up to where I was when it all went wrong with the blaster build. 
I have to still print the counter and the scope, but everything else is printed and sanded. Put a coat of the Rustoleum filler / primer on the body today. Very smooth after 1 coat,  got a bit over excited and may need to do a touch of sanding where it went on a bit heavy. 
redid the XTC coating with proper measurements and coated the T tracks. I used the little condiment containers we have from when we order food in for mixing and measured with a syringe. I think the mix was right on this time as the mixture was only workable for about 10 minutes. 

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T tracks sanded and ready to be coated 

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T tracks after coating (still wet)

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Also getting really excited. I messaged Mark from AP about the armor kit and he will be pressing in the next few days. Can’t wait for BBB day. 
 

Edited by Doggydoc
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Just a tip but if you give it a light mist spray with black when sanding it will show any low spots or lines ;) 

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Someone more knowledgeable about the exact measurement than me should weigh in ( @T-Jay or @justjoseph63 ?) But I believe this monocular has the correct size lenses for your scope.

https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-Adjustable-High-Power-High-Definition-Travelling/dp/B09JWBP8X5

 

It looks just like the one I used in mine, but I managed to not get the measurement off the side before I cut it apart.  If it is the right one, it's gonna look much much nicer than anything a printer could produce.

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Good news/bad news on that monocular.  The lenses that come with it are indeed the correct size, but it looks as if the lenses are colored (there is an option of red or blue).  The blue ones may be OK, but you may be able to find a similar monocular online with clear ones.

 

4x3ELtH.jpg?1  lGDbNOl.jpg?1

 

The lens sizes you will need should be 2.5 cm for the large and 12 mm for the small.   I have 2 clear plastic discs leftover from a previous build that will fit ( 2mm thick) if you want them.

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8 hours ago, revlimiter said:

(...)   I believe this monocular has the correct size lenses for your scope.

https://www.amazon.com/Telescope-Adjustable-High-Power-High-Definition-Travelling/dp/B09JWBP8X5   (...)

 

Yes, these are fine for installation in the E-11 scopes and I had also used them in the Completion Sets.

 

Like @justjoseph63 already pointed out, you will find them in 2 different colors (at least for the big lens).

Just be aware: the red/orange lens really looks red/orange but the blue lens simply is transparent when having it in hands.

That was at least my experience and I ordered loads of these over the last years...

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Thanks for the advice and the offer to buy your extra lenses Joseph and everyone else. I ordered some 1/16 inch acrylic sheets and will cut them on my scroll saw as my son and a friend want blasters after mine is done and then I want to build a second with electronics in it, so I will need a bunch of them eventually. 

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Quick question about paint colour for the E- 11. 
For the fire control assembly The housing that holds the trigger seems to be black on many of the blasters I have seen but my build instructions say aluminum or metal colour. Is either black or silver acceptable?  

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You will need both colors here. See photo below for details.

Trigger, trigger guard and outer housing of the fire control assembly are black, while the interior is aluminum or metal color. The grip is gloss black.

26936240601_85bc57b1ca_b.jpg

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So I managed to make clear lenses for the scope.  Bought 1/16” acrylic 5x7” sheets for photo frames and used a circle template to draw 1/2” and 1” circles onto the blue painters tape.  Used a hobby table scroll saw to cut them.  Used 1” clear round Avery labels to print the reticle and then stick it onto the lens.  
 

I don’t think it will show very well when the scope is assembled and dark inside but I like that it is there.

 

9OWkcRH.jpg

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Finally finished.  Please let me know if there are any obvious issues that will affect my applications for EI and centurion.  
 

thank you so much to Bryan @trooper96 for the amazing 3D print files. Your work is incredible. I don’t know how many times I shoved parts in my wife’s face and said “look at this, look at the detail, it actually works”.
 

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Edited by Doggydoc
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Nice work there. May be my eyes but your counter appears a little on an angle

Z5uWSy1.thumb.jpg.240eeaf0d1ed1b418dafb17a4c58fe14.jpg

 

A little weathering on this and it will be a beast (no weathering to grip or T tracks as these were plastic)

 

Well done

 

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46 minutes ago, Doggydoc said:

thank you so much to Bryan @trooper96 for the amazing 3D print files. Your work is incredible. I don’t know how many times I shoved parts in my wife’s face and said “look at this, look at the detail, it actually works”.

You are quite welcome! Thank you for printing and building my model. It looks fantastic, and I’m glad you are enjoying the functional features! Nice work!

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40 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work there. May be my eyes but your counter appears a little on an angle

Thanks for catching that Glen. It is slightly tipped. It looks like the back of the scope rail needs a little lift where it attaches and it should straighten out. 

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i noticed the rear sight is flipped to the 100m aperture. If you will flip that to the 200m aperture, the rear tab of the scope rail will sit a little higher and level that Hengstler. If you like the way it looks at the 100m setting, just shim underneath the scope rail where the screw attaches, until the Hengstler is level.

Edited by trooper96
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1 hour ago, trooper96 said:

i noticed the rear sight is flipped to the 100m aperture. If you will flip that to the 200m aperture, the rear tab of the scope rail will sit a little higher and level that Hengstler. If you like the way it looks at the 100m setting, just shim underneath the scope rail where the screw attaches, until the Hengstler is level.

Exactly what I was thinking. 

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  • 3 months later...

BBB day is finally here after 6 1/2 months due to supply chain issues. This is better than Christmas morning. So excited and a bit nervous to be honest. 

I think I will follow Panda troopers videos with respect to the order and building as I found them very easy to follow. 
 

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Great news, nothing better than BBB's, now wait for the excitement to end and the panic of "were do I start" sets in ;) 

 

Good luck with the build and remember there are no silly questions only silly mistakes from not asking them :D 

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