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Brew12 requesting pre approval review ANH Stunt (RS Propmaster)


Brew12

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1. Name: Steven Frick

2. Future Garrison : Alabama Garrison

3. Armor maker: RS Propmasters

4. Helmet maker: RS Propmasters

5. Cloth belt maker: RS Propmasters

6. Neck seal maker: RS Propmasters

7. Boot maker: Imperial Boots

9. Blaster maker: RS Propmasters

10. Gasket maker: N/A

11. Height: 5'9"

12. weight: 185 lbs

13. TK Type - ANH Stunt

14. Shoutouts : @gmrhodes13 and @TKSpartan for the encouragement and movie screen shots to keep me going in the right direction.

 

I appreciate everyone looking at this. I have 3 requests.....

Am I ready to submit this so I can join the 501st?

How can I improve it so I'm ready for the next level of approval?

How can I keep the dang forearms from twisting?

 

If I'm missing anything, please let me know.

 

iSvIjjt.jpg

 

4Hfyrao.jpg

 

Mm7j5XF.jpg

 

4AOi9GI.jpg

 

D17DVps.jpg

 

m2oUJLm.jpg

 

2NZfCr6.jpg?1

 

DSbWlIh.jpg?1

 

oHQxQwU.jpg?1

 

P64jmHq.jpg?1

 

 

Edited by Brew12
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  • Brew12 changed the title to Brew12 requesting pre approval review ANH Stunt (RS Propmaster)

Hi Steven,

 

congratulations to your armor! :smiley-sw013:

 

From here I don’t see a point against a successful approval.

 

For the next level(s): The only point i actually can spot is that there are no elastic bands at the shoulder stripes. 

  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

 

For the problem with the forearms: I installed a black elastic strapping on the inside between the forearms and the biceps. That prevents twisting.

 


Great work trooper!

 

Cheers Christian 

 

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4 minutes ago, Novak Dimon said:

Hi Steven,

 

congratulations to your armor! :smiley-sw013:

 

From here I don’t see a point against a successful approval.

 

For the next level(s): The only point i actually can spot is that there are no elastic bands at the shoulder stripes. 

  • The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

 

For the problem with the forearms: I installed a black elastic strapping on the inside between the forearms and the biceps. That prevents twisting.

 


Great work trooper!

 

Cheers Christian 

 

Thank you! 

 

I actually do have the white elastic bands so that shouldn't be an issue, but I do need to make sure they end up in the correct spot. They were too far forward when these pictures were taken. 

 

For the forearms, you have a wide black strap on the outside of the arm and then either a wide or narrow elastic band on the inside? 

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Hey Steven, looking great and easy pass for basic approval ! :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Some details for higher levels you may want to check:

 

The right ear's screw is too close the rank bar and would need to be moved up .

The traps need a bit more paint to reach the border.

 

7he9s49.jpg   fTCPRkv.jpg

 

 

 

You would need to shorten the shoulder bells straps to reduce the gap and I would recommend to remove the return edge from Bells to make then closer to the chest.

You could adjust the forearms height to be levered each other

 

w1HUOvt.jpg

 

 

References

 

 

FDsOq1x.jpg       5pB4jxZ.jpg         

 

 

qjjhL1B.png?1     93Dycf2.jpg?1    SzbmDFL.jpg?1

 

 

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4 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Hey Steven, looking great and easy pass for basic approval ! :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Some details for higher levels you may want to check:

 

The right ear's screw is too close the rank bar and would need to be moved up .

The traps need a bit more paint to reach the border.

 

7he9s49.jpg   fTCPRkv.jpg

 

 

 

You would need to shorten the shoulder bells straps to reduce the gap and I would recommend to remove the return edge from Bells to make then closer to the chest.

You could adjust the forearms height to be levered each other

 

w1HUOvt.jpg

 

 

References

 

 

FDsOq1x.jpg       5pB4jxZ.jpg         

 

 

qjjhL1B.png?1     93Dycf2.jpg?1    SzbmDFL.jpg?1

 

 

Excellent! I'm not sure how I didn't notice that the ear screw was so low. That one will be a little challenging to fix since the scrap pieces I have for making the paste are a slightly different color. 

 

I've shortened the arm to shoulder straps a bit already but I still have a little more room I can bring them in with. Removing more of the return edges might help allow them to pull in more, also. Unstretched, the center of the snap is only around 3/4 of an inch outside the shoulder bell.

 

When I add straps to keep the forearms from twisting I'll make sure to check that they are symmetrical and adjust them as necessary. 

 

I have the paint for the traps, so that should be a fairly simple fix. 

 

I also have fabric glue being delivered today to help with fraying, especially on the belt. 

 

Random thought... the scrap from removing the return edges from the shoulder should work perfect to patch the hole from moving the ear screw, so easy day there.  

 

I appreciate the feedback!

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5 hours ago, Brew12 said:

For the forearms, you have a wide black strap on the outside of the arm and then either a wide or narrow elastic band on the inside? 

A picture is better than words.
That’s the way I installed the strapping of my arms:

armstrap1.JPG

armstrap2.JPG

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Nice work, just to add to Mario's items, perhaps add tighter elastic on your sides ab/kidney as they are coming apart a little, this is more for higher levels you may be fine for basic. From the CRL for L3   ldeally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top.

 

Also note the drop box is not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt in this image, this is for higher level clearance. Just check the corners of your plastic belt, they should meet the edges of the fabric belt, for higher level clearance, bit hard to tell from the images.

  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

4AOi9GI.jpg

 

One other thing your butt plate is being pushed backwards and is overlapping the kidney plate, again perhaps tighter elastic or V tabs may help.

D17DVps.jpg

 

With a heat gun , hot water bath or oven, you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

Q6j9pfd.jpg

 

qrjihT5.jpg

 

Great work, looking forward to seeing you with a TKID soon, good luck

 

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5 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, just to add to Mario's items, perhaps add tighter elastic on your sides ab/kidney as they are coming apart a little, this is more for higher levels you may be fine for basic. From the CRL for L3   ldeally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top.

 

Also note the drop box is not quite aligned with the end of the plastic belt in this image, this is for higher level clearance. Just check the corners of your plastic belt, they should meet the edges of the fabric belt, for higher level clearance, bit hard to tell from the images.

  • The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

4AOi9GI.jpg

 

One other thing your butt plate is being pushed backwards and is overlapping the kidney plate, again perhaps tighter elastic or V tabs may help.

D17DVps.jpg

 

With a heat gun , hot water bath or oven, you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate.

 

Q6j9pfd.jpg

 

qrjihT5.jpg

 

Great work, looking forward to seeing you with a TKID soon, good luck

 

I'll definitely be adding the V tabs. I looked at some other photos taken and this issue shows up in all of them, some worse than others. I'm thinking for what I am seeing they will be best glued to the butt plate and left free on the top plate. 

 

I was a bit surprised how loose all of the strapping was on the sides of the armor. The belt does almost all of the work holding it together. Without the belt the gap is very large. Getting that tightened up will be easy.

 

Thanks for the suggestions!

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You are on a very good start, just get those fixed and you will be good to go.

 

It will be a waste if you don't apply for higher level clearance after basic approval.

 

Good luck!

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To say this has been helpful is an understatement. It is incredible how much I missed with the excitement of having the commissioned build delivered. For the first time I've really looked at my armor with a critical eye. I've found numerous other improvements I will make in addition to these that were pointed out.

 

But, most importantly, I was informed this weekend I was approved for membership so I should have a TK number soon!

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Great news, congratulations, hope to see you with your numbers soon.

 

Also hope to see you apply for higher levels, your commitment to making the changes deserves higher level.clearance :duim:

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Hey, great effort with the kit, look after it and it will last years of trooping, with the ear try mixing some ABS paste with your scraps and acetone, you won’t need much ABS as it’s a small hole, take the ear off glue a small piece of abs behind then fill from the front, once it’s dry drill the new hole. Try it on a scrap piece first. Keep up the good job you are almost there.

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Wanted to post a follow up on this here. I asked RS Propmaster for either a new ear or some scrap PVC so I could get a proper repair making a paste the correct color. I also asked what brand and number of paint they use so I could do the touchup work. They have opted not to go that route and have chosen to send me an entire new helmet. Can't complain about that customer service!

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