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A little feedback ANH Stunt sniper knee plate


TrooperTK16149

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I would say its pretty much spot on really.  make sure when you do glue, you leave for at least 72 hours to cure before you remove the clamps.

Just to add too. the top return edge on the sniper plate needs trimming to follow the angles of the front edge. i'm sure if you have an armourer guiding you in your build it will probably be mentioned, that is if you have a current WIP ( work in progress ) set up?

 

Edited by Csefton
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Using a combination of clamps magnets and tape can help to tweak it while gluing, left side (looking from the front) could come up a touch more if possible 

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2 hours ago, Csefton said:

I would say its pretty much spot on really.  make sure when you do glue, you leave for at least 72 hours to cure before you remove the clamps.

Just to add too. the top return edge on the sniper plate needs trimming to follow the angles of the front edge. i'm sure if you have an armourer guiding you in your build it will probably be mentioned, that is if you have a current WIP ( work in progress ) set up?

 

Brilliant thank you, I've posted a WIP but haven't added these pics as yet only basic shin construction so far.  Not had an armourers feedback yet.

 

Not sure what you mean by the "front" edge (sorry)

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2 minutes ago, TrooperTK16149 said:

Brilliant thank you, I've posted a WIP but haven't added these pics as yet only basic shin construction so far.  Not had an armourers feedback yet.

 

Not sure what you mean by the "front" edge (sorry)

 

If you look at the back edge in this photo, it curves round rather than following the same shape as the front facing ridge. Just a little bit of trimming is needed.

 

287337175_Sniperplate2.jpg.2732cd8caca3e4383b7f019b42f4a886.jpg

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Looks pretty good to me. The ridges are aligned most importantly. many sniper plates sit a little crooked, mine included as it is impossible to get it to sit 100% level with the left and right ridges aligned correctly.

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Another thing you can do to give you a little more flexibility on the plate (and get it closer to the calf) is to remove the return edges from the area shown.  Note in the reference image how little is there is and how close to the bumps it is cut.

 

GREAT detailed photos, by the way, and keep the questions coming!

 

gYulfZF.jpg     tTraUFi.jpg

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Not sure if the powers that be would agree with my methods, but I didn't like the gap formed between the lower plate and the shin where spiders and other vermin can crawl up into, so I used some heat to shape the plate onto my shins for a flush profile. While the e6000 was drying and the plate clamped (use non marring clamp feet on non conforming points), I masked the exposed shin with painters tape and used a low heat setting and slowly heated the plate. As the plate softened, the clamping force flexed into the crevasses.

 

HGxVxyW.jpg

 

S0B79XE.jpg

 

X9hJIa7.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by fishgoh0nk
clarity
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6 hours ago, fishgoh0nk said:

Not sure if the powers that be would agree with my methods, but I didn't like the gap formed between the lower plate and the shin where spiders and other vermin can crawl up into, so I used some heat to shape the plate onto my shins for a flush profile. While the e6000 was drying and the plate clamped (use non marring clamp feet on non conforming points), I masked the exposed shin with painters tape and used a low heat setting and slowly heated the plate. As the plate softened, the clamping force flexed into the crevasses.

 

HGxVxyW.jpg

 

S0B79XE.jpg

 

X9hJIa7.jpg

 

 

 

Yes I was wondering about this bit, I tried a little heating to see how difficult it was to mold without losing the shape, tricky business.  Your results look superb though

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Superb. You have achieved a much better result than mine. Well done. It’s one of the most difficult parts of the whole suit except for the ear sections on the helmet. The rest will be a breeze. For you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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