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Question regarding ANH TK Shin and Thigh Armor


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Hey guys, Im currently working on a ANH TK Stunt, and I made a modification to my armor that im currently second guessing. In the photo below you can see that I cut a notch at the back bottom of my thigh armor, I have the same notch cut out on the top back of my shin armor. I believe I saw a few troopers in the past with a similar modification, but now im seconjd guessing my decision. This is an Anovos kit, and if this is a problem, does anyone know of replacement parts that most closely match the white of Anovos armor?

IMG_1543.jpg

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Having the notch (or mobility cut) is fine all the way up to level 3, Centurion.
 
What you need to watch when having a mobility cut is that you don't go beyond the raised area of molding on the shin or thigh (yours is fine). It would benefit from being straighter / more even, and filling the gap below the coverstrip (either a scrap of ABS glued from behind, or filled with abs paste, to stop your black undersuit from showing through). Otherwise, no problem.
 
I'm more concerned about what appears to be a crack in the coverstrip at the top!?

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You can find some screen-references in the gallery section, so I'd check that out to make sure whatever you're cutting is actually accurate. Or you can use starwarsscreencaps.com to get some screencaptures of your own if those in the gallery aren't helpful enough. 

 

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The notch is fine as we see it in the movies, BUT not all on screen troopers had them, it was an adjustment for height, the taller troopers didn't need these mobility cuts as they had a bigger gap between the thighs and shins.

 

We always recommend to finish off a build and try out the suit before making any mobility cuts ;) 

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The notch is fine as we see it in the movies, BUT not all on screen troopers had them, it was an adjustment for height, the taller troopers didn't need these mobility cuts as they had a bigger gap between the thighs and shins.
 
We always recommend to finish off a build and try out the suit before making any mobility cuts  


I would like to add a small personal bullet point that I (at 6'4") did find that adding mobility cuts made my leg parts much more comfortable, so don't automatically assume you don't need / can't have if you're taller. However, it does add more black space at the back of the knee though, which doesn't look as good.

Absolutely agree to finish the build first then add only if necessary.
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2 minutes ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

I would like to add a small personal bullet point that I (at 6'4") did find that adding mobility cuts made my leg parts much more comfortable, so don't automatically assume you don't need / can't have if you're taller. However, it does add more black space at the back of the knee though, which doesn't look as good.

Absolutely agree to finish the build first then add only if necessary.

 

Movement is great but screen references didn't have big black spaces in the back, sure you loose some mobility but so did screen seen troopers at the end of the day it is a personal choice, I prefer to loose some movement at 5'11" I have enough of a black gap at the back ;) 

 

For screen accuracy you really don't want anymore of a gap than seen below

gallery_14191_17_52772.jpg.b2e11263c1212f0977b5bd6e49acf1ca.jpg

 

 

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19 minutes ago, bluebantha said:

Hey guys, when it comes to adding ABS Sludge and then sanding, how do I restore the sanded area back to the glossy state of the rest of the armor?

Hi Carter, 

I my case, I have sanded with super fine sanding paper and finally applied polishing wax .  Hope this can help. :salute:

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Have a look at this post.

A little way down there is a description of the levels of wet and dry to use.

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/51192-morgis-anh-stunt-build-first-build/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-724624

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7 hours ago, bluebantha said:

Hey guys, when it comes to adding ABS Sludge and then sanding, how do I restore the sanded area back to the glossy state of the rest of the armor?

I normally start with a 180 wet and dry and use water with a little dish liquid in, helps the paper to glide and doesn't block as fast. It does take some time to get it smooth, then you can go through other grades, 240, 400, 600 and I finish with a 1200. You then can either compound and polish or you may need to touch up with paint, some ABS paste won't dry completely the same color and can also leave small air holes, there you would need to add a little filler/bondo then prime and paint.

 

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1 minute ago, CallMeMrTibbles said:

 

Glen, do you mix dish soap with the water for these grades too?

I use dish liquid with all wet and dry sandpaper, old panel beater/painters trick

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