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Tim’s first time build (RS Prop Masters ESB TK)


TrickyT81

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13 hours ago, TrickyT81 said:

Hi Glen,
Just a few questions on the locking system.

1. Do I only need to add this to the right side?

2. If yes, are there any adjustments I should consider for the left side e.g., shorter/longer strap connection?

3. It appears the locking system keeps the ab/kidney aligned at the top, how does it prevent the overlap? I ask this because there doesn’t appear to be a ‘stopping point’ that prevents the kidney pulling over the ab too far.

1. Just the right side

2. Strapping depends how much your sides overlap, you only want the sides to touch each other.

3. There are various different ways to make the tab/locking system, with the tabs tight against the insides of the armor it shouldn't allow any overlap.

Here is "crickets" version. There have been numerous different ways to add some kind of locking system. 

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Thanks Morgi/Glen.

This is making more sense to me now. Just one additional question regarding general strapping length. Is there a general ‘rule of thumb’ for this? For example, should I aim for the strapping on the left side to be short and tight or a similar slackness to the right?


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1 minute ago, TrickyT81 said:

Thanks Morgi/Glen.

This is making more sense to me now. Just one additional question regarding general strapping length. Is there a general ‘rule of thumb’ for this? For example, should I aim for the strapping on the left side to be short and tight or a similar slackness to the right?

Normally I will double over the elastic and make the length 5mm shorter than what is needed, just so it has a little bit of pull, the further out your attachment points are the longer the elastic can stretch more. It's a bit of trial and error, I actually made some straps with several snaps attached in different places to use as a guide when doing commission builds, a bit easier to see what will work and you don't waste as many snaps.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, aside from a few adjustments (tighter elastic to hold down shoulder bridges and kidney/ab overlap) I think I’m pretty much ready for basic clearance. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.
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The armor looks great (the TD is a little crooked and a little high with respect to the canvas belt,a simple dressing issue, lol).

You shouldn't have any problems for basic. :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:
 

 

P.S.:   Did you check the the gaps and endcaps on your TD, that @gmrhodes13 pointed out?

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Thanks for reminding me on this, Chemi. I’m a few millimetres out on this. Only one small problem, I can’t get the end caps off. They’re glued on pretty well.

This is an RS kit and one thing I would say is that the tube part of the TD is pre-cut with the clips already screwed on. The end caps and front piece was cut by me to the trim lines. From what I can see of the measurements, the tube is a little short on what RS provides.

Any suggestions on how I can get the end caps off and I’ll glue back on and not push right up to the clips.


Sent from The Empire

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As an additional question, I’m looking through the Centurion CRL and struggling to find anything referencing these TD measurements. If you can point me in the right direction on this that would be great.

I’ve tried to be so meticulous with getting my armour correct for L3 it would be a shame to fail over a few mm.


Sent from The Empire

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Well, actually, D.O.s don't just follow the CRL.;)

 

If you look at the reviews, we always say the following:

"please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions."

 

However, we never ask for a photo with a measurement scale to check that everything is OK, we only ask to correct the TD in the case that it is clear that something is not measuring what it should...

We can also be wrong. We may think something is wrong and it's really ok...:lol:

 

 

 

The CRL states(L1, Basic):

-The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm).

-End caps are approximately .78" (20mm)in width.

 

I think RS should not send the clips screwed on in the kits, because when you glue the end caps, it can happen as in your case. You could have glued them without inserting them all the way and you would have had the millimeters you needed...

 

What glue did you use? If it is cyanoacrylate, it will be difficult to remove it...:blush:

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Thanks, Chemi. That’s what I was thinking (remove the end caps but not push on all the way) but they’re not for budging. I glued on with Gorilla glue which is similar to E6000.

Is this going to stop me from reaching levels 2 and 3?


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I've never used that glue, but I'm sure someone will be able to give you some advice. Maybe soaking it in warm water, or using isopropyl alcohol, or mineral spirits might help. What is very important, is that you don't use products with acetone.:jc_doublethumbup:

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I think it’s mainly a UK product. It’s used a lot here given there are E6000 knock offs but has similar properties, albeit a little tougher (as I’m finding out).

I remember the end caps being difficult to remove without the glue when testing the fit but I’ll try the hot water and see if that helps loosen it.


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Good news, my armour has been cleared.
What a journey and massive thanks to all who has contributed on my thread (especially you Glen). It’s taken a while but never would have thought I would be able to build my own stormtrooper when I joined the 501st in 2021.

The journey isn’t over though. I’ll be submitting my Expert Infantry pics soon and hopefully Centurion.


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42 minutes ago, TrickyT81 said:

Good news, my armour has been cleared.
What a journey and massive thanks to all who has contributed on my thread (especially you Glen). It’s taken a while but never would have thought I would be able to build my own stormtrooper when I joined the 501st in 2021.

The journey isn’t over though. I’ll be submitting my Expert Infantry pics soon and hopefully Centurion.

You are most welcome, that's what we are here for.

 

Congratulations trooper and well done :duim::salute:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all,

As part of my goal to get Centurion level, I need to bend my shoulder bridges a little as they’re currently not sitting flat when held down by the elastic. 
hot water has been the recommendation to do this and I’m wondering if someone could provide a bullet point method, a video would be even better, so I do this correctly and not damage my armour. 
I do have a heat gun but I’m a little nervous about using this given the shoulder bridges have ridges. 
 

Thanks all. 

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Albeit not shoulder straps but how to hot water bath some parts in this thread 

Another way is a heat gun or torch, these take some practice to use, there is a fine line between hot enough to bend and molten mess, so take care. A hot water bath is a lot more gentle on the armor.

Some even make wooden plugs that they can rest parts on once heated so it keeps them nice and straight, so there is no or little warping 

 

Some heat gun work in this thread

 

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On 2/24/2024 at 7:38 AM, TrickyT81 said:

As an additional question, I’m looking through the Centurion CRL and struggling to find anything referencing these TD measurements. If you can point me in the right direction on this that would be great.

Where's @MaskedVengeance when you need him! It's a TD question!

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