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3d printed DLT-19 build


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Bought this off outerrimoutlet on etsy.

Build quality looks good. Definitely going to need lots of sanding to get all the print lines removed.

He did send a printable pdf for instructions and tips for putting it all together that is helpful. 3930f8f8ed68e8668c7911d2ed52cd99.jpg

 

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First was getting all the extra support out of the barrel. It took me probably around 3 hours. Very slow and tedious process. I would recommend some needle nose with a very small point. I also made good use of my set of angled picks. Still took ages to get them cleaned out. 97e6232c3927adb8c840f320242d185f.jpgfea041f8c2b6d47c3b09c8b95db7af50.jpg

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Did some rough sanding using 120 grit sandpaper. Using a block for the flat parts and by hand for everything else.
I've also found my small files work well for the hard to reach areas.
Decided to get a couple pieces sanded decent and see how much a coat of the filler/primer will cover. The printer lines are still pretty visible so I'll have to send it down even more.90408f0e949d382c328557ac4ef1e8f0.jpgd68f32da1d9b72a81fd322f8fb5850fc.jpgbb0738088f430d6c6991ae8417d73128.jpg

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Following with interest :popcorn:

Looking at doing my own DLT-19 soon(ish), but can't decide whether to build or cheat, er, I mean buy already assembled.

I may be basing that decision entirely on this thread. No pressure! :lol:

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Following with interest :popcorn:
Looking at doing my own DLT-19 soon(ish), but can't decide whether to build or cheat, er, I mean buy already assembled.
I may be basing that decision entirely on this thread. No pressure! 
I'll do my best to keep it real.
I spent a long time looking around for these and I just didn't want to fork over the $$ for a finished one. This seemed like a good way to get a quality product that can hold up to the rigors of trooping, Without breaking the bank.

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Few more hours of sanding done. Still got a few pieces to go with the 120 grit.
Then I'll hit everything again with 220 to get rid of the little fuzzies that collect from the 120. Then I'll do whatever bondo filler in needed from areas where the print layers didn't fill in smoothly.
After it'll be on to the primer and 400 grit sanding.
e5310f62aa15cd711ad95c7ac092fd06.jpg87e00201963bb53743d839627c2959a0.jpg8d6d11d72d7cb4dc78462a929fe99238.jpg

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Did a test fit to figure out where all the small pieces go and which parts need to be sanded. Also happy this kit is made to have a 3/8" wooden Dowell through the entire body to give it that extra strength. acf31a364dfff81e5cc5f5d632270e2b.jpg

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Put some glazing putty in the larger gaps left over from sanding. This stuff dries super fast. Like 2 minutes. So I had to do about 7 small batches to get through all the pieces. Now I just gotta let it set for a bit. It recommends about 15 minutes but I'll probably give it a bit longer just to be safe. Hopefully get started painting in a couple days.6f70dc58532df866d2a08abe34be8861.jpg

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Threw a couple coats of filler primer and sanded mostly with 400 grit (220 for rougher areas)
After that I decided it was good enough.
I'm not going for perfect. Especially since this will be for trooping.
I'm going to get a couple coats of the flat black on there then give it a last sanding with the 400 or maybe even 1000 grit. Before adding the last coat and assembly. c81d100d596178666deabcea7f454b25.jpgf1543c954b2571382bae8938d09526a5.jpg

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3-4 coats of black and I'm happy with the results.
Had to give the barrel some extra shots to make sure the inner barrel didn't have any Grey spots.
For assembly I started at the buttstock and used e6000. Gave it a liberal amount so it should hold well. The two body pieces don't interlock so I'm using clamps to make sure they stay aligned. c323253b7f8e5de9105f78a738b7add0.jpga7fc0390f088270f26eef07eae73123e.jpg

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Finished! I used E6000 and glued it in sections. I did a final sanding with 400 grit to smooth out some of the scuffs from the clamps I used while gluing it together. Then a final coat of paint.
It still has some printer lines visible. But overall I'm very happy with it.
Both front and rear sight move.
And the bipod is held in place with a simple pin.
It's also super light only 2.5 pounds. So it will be great for trooping.
Only thing I don't know is how durable it is. It feels pretty stiff and I don't think it's going to have any problems. But being a 3d print even if it gets cracked or broken, it's nothing glue and paint can't fix.8dd7eab057bf0b1ec54b205c6a6c7010.jpg31b95d48b36f66ccf0ff04bc11cebb81.jpg1f0f91fb4d937363d867bceae4f4ed90.jpg81098c29e8261a9c9f1dfe8f22d290ad.jpg80dcdd3958e19e355342d7ca75f206e6.jpg34e1bdca06dc7e4a058925ce87505c18.jpg

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Well I've now made 1 repair. My wife (who this is for) picked it up the first time and tried to rack the charging handle. So that broke clean off.
I decided to redneck myself a fix. I hollowed out the changing handle where it goes into the body.
Then I had to grind down a bolt so it would fit inside. Threw a bunch of E6000 to hold that in and screwed the bolt through the charging handle.
Looks good as new and it should be a lot stronger.b396327b2c0605e0b9b4876c760aec05.jpg25b6e3b231c5e4926b01283871d2d867.jpg375de3c03d19128a50cdcfcfc2f6ab7b.jpg1d66c1abe9e85c940d8ac05be66989df.jpg

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Nice fix, I have found with a lot of thin wall prints I've had to add an inner support, recently printed a beskar spear and the tip broke into 3 peaces just by knocking the bench. 

 

 

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I noticed during my build that after dry fitting the pieces the entire thing was a bit wobbly.  I drilled out the center of all the components and added a 36 inch long 3/8" aluminum rod (Lowe's) for stability.

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I noticed during my build that after dry fitting the pieces the entire thing was a bit wobbly.  I drilled out the center of all the components and added a 36 inch long 3/8" aluminum rod (Lowe's) for stability.
I'm hoping the wooden Dowell I put though this one is enough. But if not that is a good idea.

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Cool fix.
Have you left it detachable for transport?
Technically yes. I can unscrew it if needed. Not sure if I would or not. I'm hoping it's sturdy enough I won't have to.

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