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Revvek’s ANOVOS TK upgrades (stunt)


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36 minutes ago, Revvek said:

yes, I think this may be just what I need to try. it's similar to what I read before, but it think that writeup was done by Ukswrath.

 

Anovos Back plate has this issue , I have built a couple of Anovos kits and always had to bend the shoulder section by hot gun or stove disc.  (Ninja style)

 

 

 

 

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The stress bend (and eventual cracks) on the back plate shoulder area is usually caused by the back panel sitting far too low, often from people trying to close the gap between the panels and 'make it fit'. Ensure your ab and kidney/posterior aren't sagging, and remember that a little gap between the back and kidney is just fine. The back should sit just below where your collar line would be. Just make sure you round off the bottoms of the tabs too or they'll rub something fierce.

 

If not already mentioned, I saw in another photo that your belt can come up a bit so that it sits just below the bottom blue button - some velcro on the backside usually works well to help this!

 

Overall, looking good and well on your way! Anovos armor is easy to make look good, so keep at it!

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Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, TheRascalKing said:

The stress bend (and eventual cracks) on the back plate shoulder area is usually caused by the back panel sitting far too low, often from people trying to close the gap between the panels and 'make it fit'. Ensure your ab and kidney/posterior aren't sagging, and remember that a little gap between the back and kidney is just fine. The back should sit just below where your collar line would be. Just make sure you round off the bottoms of the tabs too or they'll rub something fierce.

 

If not already mentioned, I saw in another photo that your belt can come up a bit so that it sits just below the bottom blue button - some velcro on the backside usually works well to help this!

 

Overall, looking good and well on your way! Anovos armor is easy to make look good, so keep at it!


i am learning what things are called and stuff still. 
And all the things I need to find to fix things. Like snaps and rivets (don’t know what size they are yet!   I’ve noticed often how build logs or lists just say you need, single cap rivets, and never give actual dimensions. 
I need to take apart the knee boxes to flip it over so I can measure those and find similar. (Didn’t measure them when I noticed the issue, just photographed it)

 

I’m going to try and gauge back alignment using the left side connection between front and back parts.  

Edited by Revvek
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In some instances you will find information in the CRL's like rivet sizes

  • A split (bifurcated) or single cap rivet is present on the lower tab (cod area) of the abdomen armor.
    • Rivet does not need to be functional.
    • Rivet on must be brass or silver in color, approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter and is not painted.

 

  • Ideally there no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor. Abdominal and Kidney Plate align horizontally at top.
    • A single visible seam line is present.
  • Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor.
    • Note: The original rivets used for the TK armor were bifurcated rivets or split rivets.
  • Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge.
    • The heads are rounded or domed. Note: Paperclip brads are not considered to have a domed head.
    • Rivets are painted white.
  • A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.
  • Thigh ammo belt is attached to thigh with a solid head rivet, painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.
    • The rivets used shall be single cap, double cap or split rivets. No pop rivets allowed.
    • Rivet should be approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

 

Snaps used are generally Line 24(5/8") snaps

 

You can also refer to this thread, full of information ;) 

 

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Posted (edited)

Excellent! 
 

I think I read past those sizes 50 times… 

 

can’t say I ever noticed this All-In-One TK ANH Stunt Index of Resources page in my browsing either somehow… 

 

Thanks!

Edited by Revvek
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Posted (edited)

re glueing this thigh to try and close up the gap on the ends.

I used the blue tape to protect things while trying to remove the cover strip. it was kind of loose near the ends but I decided to stop after a few inches.

figured I would leave the blue tape to help remove glue spill after.  bad idea.. (I eventually got it off, but it's to weak and just ripped and stuck to the glue really good!)

rWH9rsvl.jpg

 

this is the right thigh. I was able to remove the split rivets holding the knee ammo boxes I need to flip.

2KbNpZUl.jpg

 

not sure if I will reuse them or not yet...

Edited by Revvek
had to step away and didn't want to make another post for these 2 images.
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Posted (edited)

put some paint on the screws I found for the helmet.

they will need to be cut to length...  these are kind of hard to find!

5y28dBHm.jpg?1

 

The Left thigh front has major issues on one end besides a huge gap...

zKWlFRql.jpg

 

Even closed up this doesn't align well at all.

myps0Q8l.jpg

 

NOTE TO SELF.  remove the blue tape before glue on this one...

 

The other end of the seam is aligned but also has a gap and twist...

I don't have scraps or return trimmings yet to make ABS goo for filling...

rpYHmVGl.jpg

Edited by Revvek
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Thigh lower ridges can be difficult if you don't align from the get go, I've had to remove the cover strips on a couple that have moved while drying, hence we always recommend E6000 as it can be removed. For excess glue I find using off cuts of coverstrip ABS works well, just use the corner and push along the sides of the coverstrip on the thigh, it will dull after some use so I just cut the end and keep going. E6000 does like sticking to tape, as you have found ;) 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thigh lower ridges can be difficult if you don't align from the get go, I've had to remove the cover strips on a couple that have moved while drying, hence we always recommend E6000 as it can be removed. For excess glue I find using off cuts of coverstrip ABS works well, just use the corner and push along the sides of the coverstrip on the thigh, it will dull after some use so I just cut the end and keep going. E6000 does like sticking to tape, as you have found ;) 

 

this was built by Anovos, so I get to fix what they did. mostly it's good.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Haven’t done much over the last many weeks other than read build logs…

 

If I screw up, I have zero scraps to even try to fix things with. So I don’t do anything… Just waiting for expert input.

 

I did start trimming the return edges on the back plate shoulder tabs yesterday, so I can hot water bend them into a more continuous curve with the back… 

Started by thinning out the tab bend area with a taper toward to end. 

ARR545ml.jpg     siLyh3Wl.jpg


But I think I will remove more all the way around. 


I don’t know how people cut inside corners like this with even small bent lexan scissors.

(I need to make scraps I can later use them to make ABS goo the proper color, so just making dust isn’t an option...)

 

I didn’t trim anything in the neck area yet.

xM36Vmfl.jpg

 

Oh, and I did play with hot water bending the knee ammo boxs to make it more cleanly curved, but it seemed to maybe start to shrink or something after sitting in the water for a bit. (it wasn't a rolling boil, but it was bubbling before I dropped it in, then turned the stove off)

3NnIg8Al.jpg

 

used a pan as a form. it kind of worked...

jEdJtqUl.jpg

Edited by Revvek
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1 hour ago, Revvek said:

I don’t know how people cut inside corners like this with even small bent lexan scissors.

(I need to make scraps I can later use them to make ABS goo the proper color, so just making dust isn’t an option...)

 

Hi,

those difficult sections I have used a Dremel tool .  or a scissor like bellow and after trimming  used sand paper to refine.

 

 gE4FLL1.jpg?2

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When trimming/sanding try to do this over a sheet or tarp then you can save the shavings/filings which you will be able to use for ABS paste ;) 

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One of the features of this pre built Anovos armor is a nice black lining on the inside surfaces.

wpY3l40l.jpg

 

I have been pondering if it's worth the effort to remove it and all the sticky goo left behind...

 

Well yesterday, I noticed that my chest plate neck was starting to crack, and I haven't even work it yet!

 

After a close inspection why, I noticed something... The person who built this, used a sharp knife to cut out the area with the Anovos logo. 

scoring the ABS in the process... 

So I cut away a portion of the liner near the edge to help with getting in there to repair it...

you can clearly see the score lines here. 

IXd0KIZl.jpg

 

nice...

 

ultimately this pushed me over the edge, and I just ripped out the liner to see if other areas where also compromised similarly (none found)

Then, proceeded to use Goo Gone to clean things up before adding a bit of plastic welder glue and tape to help keep things from separating again while it cured.

took about 30 minutes, with scraping and then a bath in the tub with soapy water... 

32cbd6Hl.jpg

There is a bit of staining from the black fabric, but the glue came off.

 

Time to consider my options for adding further reinforcement to this area and others I may find... 

 

And I will be removing the liner in many places, to enable my reworking of the strap system... not overly happy with the Velcro solution. it may be fine in some places...

 

I haven't decided if it's worth removing the liner everyplace... yet. 

 

Edited by Revvek
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2 of my concerns when applying any type of coating is one any color bleed as this has happened to some in the past and the other is build up of sweat, it's amazing how much liquid you can find in armor pieces after a really hot troop.

 

Nice work getting that coating off.

 

What ever you fix on one side best to do the same on the other. I find RS also suffers from a lot of stress cracking, going over the armor and slightly bending in places that you would normally move is a good way of testing for any pre cracking.

 

 

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removing the liner continues... all body parts are cleared. 

using Goo Gone

7gBn630l.jpg

 

putt some onto the area to be worked, spread it around,  and let it sit for a few minutes.

MESSY WORK...

But the liner just keeps getting in the way of my modifications so, it all must go!

scrape...

scrape...

scrape...

started using this tool in some flat areas. works great!

plastic razor blades.

PVWRpPnl.jpg?1

 

when done I wipe all the bits of glue into the trash and give the part a nice wash with soap and warm water.

Edited by Revvek
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Our local goo gone has an orange smell so it can be quite pleasant, well to smell not to scrape off ;) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

scrape...

scrape...

 

1 thigh, both calfs, and right arm bicep and forearm are all that remain. 

 

Oh and I trimmed the return on these to about half what it was (after removing the black liner) 
I haven't sorted out how exactly I want to attach these to the biceps yet. going to keep the Velcro mounted elastic straps for now.

FrWlbl6l.jpg?1

(I trimmed the bottom one just a bit more after this image)

Edited by Revvek
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Elastic straps should really meet the ends of the shoulder bell, your velcro may not be strong enough to hold them in that position when moving arms, just something to check ;) 

sml_gallery_12157_78_999782.jpg

 

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Posted (edited)

Did some trimming on the returns for the forearms. 
dhCSKXAl.jpg

 

Done on this end of both. 
not sure about the other end yet.

n0OfsqKl.jpg
not happy with the Anovos builder who left such gaps between sides…

Edited by Revvek
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Looking much better, just make sure in the corners there is not rounded areas ;) 

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16 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Looking much better, just make sure in the corners there is not rounded areas ;) 

I tried to match the inside surface shape. 

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