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Greg S AM HWT Build


Greg S

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Alright here we go I have acquired enough parts to get started. So here is what I have starting with the pack. I am following a few build threads as well. 

 

1. GarageBoss Drain pan (Amazon)

2. Photo Box for the radio (Michael's)

3. Radio knobs from Hodgepodge paste jars

4. ABS sheets for the cover plates (Not Pictured)

5. Popit Containers XE-041, XE-051 and EX-061

6. 1" Soda bottle cap (Not Pictured)

7. Bumper Pads (Amazon)

8. 2" Black PVC tube 2 ft. in length (Hardware store)

9. 2 x 2" PVC caps (From Hardware store)

10. TK extra shoulder bridge (From AM kit)

11. Various cups for the Siphon 

12. 1" clip buckles and 1" black webbing for the shoulder straps (Hobby Lobby)

13. ArmorAll cleaning wipe container. 

14. All other misc items I will post along with the build

 

 

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For the Belt:

1. Extra AM Ammo belt

2. Extra square rivet covers x3

3. New belt from Rob Kittell 

4. Magazine pouches from E-Bay. Had to buy 2 sets to get the 2 for the belt. 3rd with top pouch is for the Paldron. I have a extra one with the additional pouch. 

5. Palron is ordered from Katarra8 

 

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Edited by Greg S
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56 minutes ago, MaskedVengeance said:

Saw your post on fb. Looking forward to following along on your HWT build!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks

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Always GREAT to see another HWT in progress!  Looks like you are well set up for this, Greg, and I look forward to following your build!  If I could offer a quick suggestion, it would be to securely glue the white PVC caps to the ends of the tube before cutting the rounded parts off.  Using a shim to keep the tube/cap level will give you nice squared end, especially if you are using a chop (radial) saw.

 

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2 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Always GREAT to see another HWT in progress!  Looks like you are well set up for this, Greg, and I look forward to following your build!  If I could offer a quick suggestion, it would be to securely glue the white PVC caps to the ends of the tube before cutting the rounded parts off.  Using a shim to keep the tube/cap level will give you nice squared end, especially if you are using a chop (radial) saw.

 

oYMjbnR.jpg?2

 

 

Awesome thanks @justjoseph63 I will do this for the tube. 

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Started off with the tube. First I trimmed the tube to proper length of 2 ft. Next glued the caps on. I used some tape to make a straight cut line. I have a side bench vise that Kept it square. Using a hack saw I cut off the rounded parts. Finished with a file and sand paper. Next I took the spare TK shoulder strap. Used a heat gun to make it flat. Trimmed it to the required 7 bumps. Heated it once again and formed it to the tube. Clamped and glued it in place 2" down from the cap edge.  Moving onto the boxes next.

 

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Moving onto the radio box. I cut the box down to 2 1/2 inches. Cut the lid down for the back. I cut and glued in some wood supports for a more solid mounting points on the pack. While the E6000 is drying I will start on the radio face plate. 

 

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Made the radio face plate details. I used 1/8 abs for the top trim and 1/16 abs for the bottom trim. Next is to glue them to the front of the radio box when the wood stiffeners are fully dry.

 

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 "I cut and glued in some wood supports for a more solid mounting points on the pack".

 

Excellent idea!

 

Another idea I used was to cut out the entire circular area.  This served 2 purposes-  It allowed me access to the interior to better secure some of the attachments with short drywall screws (including the side tube), and it allows the OII plate to sit nestled inside the rear of the pack so it doesn't make the pack sit too far out away from the armor.  I lined the entire rear exterior with 1/8" thick black craft foam (EVA), which can be pressed into the circular opening and prevents the pack from scratching your armor.

 

SHpdUKy.jpg   BecGzRM.png?1   udpXueH.jpg

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3 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

 "I cut and glued in some wood supports for a more solid mounting points on the pack".

 

Excellent idea!

 

Another idea I used was to cut out the entire circular area.  This served 2 purposes-  It allowed me access to the interior to better secure some of the attachments with short drywall screws (including the side tube), and it allows the OII plate to sit nestled inside the rear of the pack so it doesn't make the pack sit too far out away from the armor.  I lined the entire rear exterior with 1/8" thick black craft foam (EVA), which can be pressed into the circular opening and prevents the pack from scratching your armor.

 

SHpdUKy.jpg   BecGzRM.png?1   udpXueH.jpg

Yah thanks I want to make the card board box a rigid and durable as possible. Yup I know about removing the drain funnel. Good idea on the foam. I have some left over on a Shore Trooper armor commission I did a while back.  

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3 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Looking forward to watching this come together.


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Thanks. I should make some good progress this week on the pack.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been a bit since my last post. So I finished the radio box. Finished the round canister. Finished the PopIt boxes. Next need to get on the siphon.

 

Radio Box assembly

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Canister

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PopIt Boxes cut the lip and ABS sheet bottoms and top plates. Added all the appropriate parts. 

 

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ABS cover plates

 

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All the completed parts so far. They are not mounted yet. Need to make the siphon now. 

 

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Edited by Greg S
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WOW!  This is looking fantastic, Greg!  I assume you will be taking your HWT to higher levels (wink wink, nudge nudge) after Basic approval, so don't forget to weather that bad-boy up!

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3 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

WOW!  This is looking fantastic, Greg!  I assume you will be taking your HWT to higher levels (wink wink, nudge nudge) after Basic approval, so don't forget to weather that bad-boy up!

Thanks Oh yah you know it all the way to Centurion of course. 

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Got started on the siphon. Cut down a cup 4" on top to 3 1/2 on the bottom. Cut a piece of 1/16 abs for the top and glued it on. I will glue the soda cap later. Also I had a super thin abs 1/32 i think from a older project. Rolled into a cone. Glued and clamped. That's it for now need to let the glue dry for the cone 24 hrs. 

 

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If you haven't attached the cone yet, I would suggest adding a generous amount of E-6000 to the inside rim of the top as seen below, especially if you used CA  (super) glue.  The reason being is that CA can (and will) get brittle over time and the bond can fail, especially when the pack gets banged around during transport.  ;)

 

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7 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

If you haven't attached the cone yet, I would suggest adding a generous amount of E-6000 to the inside rim of the top as seen below, especially if you used CA  (super) glue.  The reason being is that CA can (and will) get brittle over time and the bond can fail, especially when the pack gets banged around during transport.  ;)

 

vhkspCj.jpg

Yup did that. No Ca glue just e6000. It’s really solid. 

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