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E-11 Blaster Help


jcmcc421

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I have a few questions about E-11's. 
1. Is a modified rubies E-11 an approvable option for 501st approval?
2. What kind of templates are good for a scratch build? (any links to templates would be greatly appreciated!)
3. Are there reliable 3D-print templates for an E-11? (again, any links would be greatly appreciated!)
4. What are some good E-11 kits? (if I decide not to go with 3D-printed, scratch built, or modified rubies)

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5 hours ago, jcmcc421 said:

I have a few questions about E-11's. 
1. Is a modified rubies E-11 an approvable option for 501st approval?
2. What kind of templates are good for a scratch build? (any links to templates would be greatly appreciated!)
3. Are there reliable 3D-print templates for an E-11? (again, any links would be greatly appreciated!)
4. What are some good E-11 kits? (if I decide not to go with 3D-printed, scratch built, or modified rubies)

 

 

Hi James!  To answer some of your questions:

 

1.  Blasters are not required for Basic 501st approval, but are for Level 2 (Expert Infantry).  Assuming you are going for ANH Stunt, the details/requirements can be found in the CRL:

 

TK anh stunt e11.jpeg
  • Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable):
  • Folding stock (does not need to function).
  • A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present.
  • D-ring mounted on the rear.
  • Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope.
  • Two power cylinders on the magazine housing.
  • Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered).
  • If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side.
    • This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.
  • 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance.
  • No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster.
OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):
  • Bapty-style, Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.
  • The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic.

 

2.  I haven't done one personally, but they can be pretty expensive, especially the metal parts.  There is a seller on ebay which I have used to replace many of the resin parts on my blaster with here.  Pricey but well worth it if you are looking for screen accuracy.   Hopefully someone can chime in here with some help.

 

3.  There are a LOT of 3D printed files out there to choose from, (like these), but be careful.  Many are simply not screen accurate and not up to 501st standards.  The best thing to do if you find one (or more) you like is to post up a link here and we will be more than happy to give you advice.

 

4.  The only kit I know of is Doopydoos, who sadly is not making them any longer.

 

There is some fantastic information and lots of build threads here which may help, but always feel free to ask if you have any specific questions.

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If you want an accurate 3D-print E-11, this is the file to use:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566

 

The base gun is a British Sterling SMG, you will also need to download the kits for E-11 conversion too, please refer to the instructions on the page.

 

(Created by BR (TK-14082) who is also on our forum.)

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6 minutes ago, giskard8 said:

If you want an accurate 3D-print E-11, this is the file to use:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566

 

The base gun is a British Sterling SMG, you will also need to download the kits for E-11 conversion too, please refer to the instructions on the page.

 

(Created by BR (TK-14082) who is also on our forum.)

Those were the files I saw before actually! I couldn't find them for a bit thanks for showing them!

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19 hours ago, giskard8 said:

If you want an accurate 3D-print E-11, this is the file to use:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4003566

 

 

Excellent reference there, Arthur.  That one is going in my saved folder to recommend in the future.  Thanks!

 

19 hours ago, jcmcc421 said:

Those were the files I saw before actually! I couldn't find them for a bit thanks for showing them!

 

I would suggest having it printed with the highest level of detail and fewest print lines you can afford (like SLA or resin).  Otherwise, you are in for a ton of filling and sanding.

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Bryan has a post here on our forum in the 3D files area

 

Here is his collection on Thingiverse 

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