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What about this armor can’t be approved?


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Hi everyone, I joined the legion about 10 years ago but have gone inactive since. I was trying to get my armor reapproved and I submitted my pictures last night for my ANH Hero armor. I got an email back from the GML saying that my armor kit no longer conforms to the CRL any longer. He said to reach out to the forums to see if you had any suggestions on how to rework it.

 

I bought the armor from a legion member 12 years ago and he never told me what the make of the armor was. At the time I just knew he was already in the legion and this suit was approved. My GML said that this is ATA armor which is not approvable apparently. I know my helmet and my armor are from different sets. Is the helmet the only this that is not approvable or is it my armor as well? 
 

Thanks for the help.

 

Here are my pics: Imgur Link

 

 

Edited by TK-7892
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Hi Logan, just a quick glance and more will chime in shortly but the FX helmets were grandfathered in about 2 years ago now and as such are no longer approvable as far more accurate representations are very readily available.

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16 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Hi Logan, just a quick glance and more will chime in shortly but the FX helmets were grandfathered in about 2 years ago now and as such are no longer approvable as far more accurate representations are very readily available.

Hi, thanks for the response. So the helmet needs to go. Check. What about the rest of the armor?

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2 minutes ago, masterx244 said:

 

First link is not accesible at all.

HOWTO: Make your FX armor Expert Infantry

 

I get this question asked a lot so figured now was a prime time to write it up. Obviously the helmet has to go in toto, but since that's an all-out replacement and usually taken care of in one fell swoop, and the fact that most already have swapped out their helmet, Id like to focus solely on the armor.

 

Despite what people may say, making your FX armor EIB acceptable actually takes little effort, money, and time. You can pretty much buy everything you need for $60 and an hours worth of work, or if you have time can do it for about $20 and an afternoon. Lets break it down!

 

1. Replace the ab plate buttons

The ab plate buttons that came with the FX kits are the wrong size and color and need to be replaced. Fortunately this is pretty easy on the FX kit and you have several routes you can choose from:

 

1. Easiest way buy them completed. You could contact other armor makers and buy pieces seperately

 

 

2. Next Easiest - buy plain buttons and use decals

You can buy plain buttons from Tandy. They need to be 7/16" in diameter. You can then buy decals from TK-4510 instead of painting them for $3

Button Decals : https://trooperbay.com/trooper-abdominal-plate-decals

 

3. Least Easiest - buy plain buttons and paint yourself

As above, you can buy a set of 9 buttons from Tandy and paint them yourself.

Painting guide: http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8117

Where to buy paints: trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-supplies/painting/humbrol

 

Maximum cost : $20

Effort : 10 minutes to 30, depending if you buy or build

 

 

2. Replace the plastic belt

Like the ab plate buttons, this is a pretty straightforward fix if you buy a belt or you can save some money and make your own.

 

Making a Belt

HOWTO: A guide to making a canvas belt : http://whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=665

 

Maximum cost : $40

Effort : 20 minutes or more, depending if you buy or build

 

 

3. Correctly mounting your holster

While most holsters have full straps, in A New Hope (which most troopers do) the belts are actually fastened from behind using rivets. This is a very cheap mod and you there are many ways to achieve this look.

 

If you are doing an ESB trooper, simply wear it on the right instead of the left ($0 cost and time). If you are doing an A New Hope trooper this look can be achieved by simply cutting off the outside strap (free, 5 minutes) and then fastening the holster to the belt like shown in the picture below as a guide:

2R6Gc44.jpg

 

You can use rivets, Chicago screws, or even snaps. The rivets need only be seen on the outside, and you can even use velcro if you wish on the inside to make it more secure.

 

Maximum cost : < $5 in materials

Effort : 10 minutes or less

 

Pretty easy so far

So far it's been pretty easy and the above steps will instantly make any FX based stormtrooper look more accurate and impressive. Some choose to stop there, but there are two more mods that will need to be done to make that FX kit Expert Infantry.

 

4. Cutting the butt plate

While the cheapest mod to do, this is really the only one people hesitate on and it often takes two people to get it to hang correctly. While there is a seam line on the back of the FX back plate, it's too high and the cut should actually be lower down, about 1/4 to 1/2" below the belt. You can see this in several shots.

 

UQwORLX.jpg

 

 

While the pictures above only show the strapping for the kidney to the butt plate, some people (including myself) also use a strap that goes around the front of the waist to keep the sides from flaring out. Ideally one could use a heat gun to properly shape it, but a strap works well too. Also depending on your body type you may have to put a little bit if padding in the butt plate to get it to sit correctly (OK, maybe just me and my small butt :-)).

 

Regardless of whichever route you go, this is an inexpensive mod in that the cost is just those pieces of velcro or strapping that you use to secure it. The time is the biggest factor, as while cutting it only takes 5 minutes it can take up to 30 to get it to sit correctly.

 

5. Shimming the side gaps

Of all the armor makes, the FX has the largest gap between the ab plate and the back plate. Fortunately this is pretty easy to solve with some extra plastic sheets. While clones advocate a seamless join, FISD is not so picky and simply using a plastic shim is acceptable. There are several routes that people use:

 

1. Buy spare ABS/HIPS from whomever made their kit (guaranteed to match the armor)

2. Buy spare ABS/HIPS from a plastics store (perhaps cheaper)

3. Use spare ABS/HIPS that they have laying around. The plastic belt that gets replaced by using a fabric belt is often an ideal candidate for this.

4. Buy a cheap plastic sign from a home improvement store and paint it to match

 

 

Here is a simple fix that a person used as a starting point. Remember it just needs to look good from the outside though it's always a good idea to make these changes more robust as time and budget allow.

UrdFpxT.jpg

 

Conclusion

And that's it! It may seem a lot at first, but after going through it you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Whether you decide to buy everything you need or create all the pieces from scratch, these changes will really make your FX armor kit pop and breath new life in to it, allowing for many more years of enjoyable trooping to come.

 

Where to go next

I'd like to encourage those that haven't taken the plunge to make these changes to do so. Making your FX Expert Infantryman qualified actually is relatively inexpensive and not that hard.

 

Not enough you say? Yes, there is even *more* you can do to pimp out that FX kit, from adding side snaps on the ab/kidney to adding return edges to the chest and other parts, but these aren't required for EIB.

 

What do you think?

Everyone - we on FISD staff would love to hear what you think of the above. Was it easy to follow? Did you like the changes once done? Let us know!

 

Paul "Daetrin"

FISD Founder | retired DL (FISD), GXO, GML, XO (MEPD, IOC), DWM (IOC, SpecOps, Sith Lords) | 2007 Rose Parade Marcher (B Co.)

 

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20 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

HOWTO: Make your FX armor Expert Infantry

 

I get this question asked a lot so figured now was a prime time to write it up. Obviously the helmet has to go in toto, but since that's an all-out replacement and usually taken care of in one fell swoop, and the fact that most already have swapped out their helmet, Id like to focus solely on the armor.

 

Despite what people may say, making your FX armor EIB acceptable actually takes little effort, money, and time. You can pretty much buy everything you need for $60 and an hours worth of work, or if you have time can do it for about $20 and an afternoon. Lets break it down!

 

 

Wow! This is so great. Thanks a ton for this post. I had always wondered. I know for the side gaps I have seen larger troopers (like myself) in the past with a white cloth instead of plastic. Is that approvable or is that a no go? I wouldn't think so but just wanted to check before I wrote it off completely lol.

 

I didn't point this out earlier, but I have made some modifications to the original armor in adding a cloth belt, adding the white elastic shoulder straps, and changing the ab buttons. Just want to make sure these were good or not before I replace some of the aforementioned parts. 

 

Thanks again, this is such a relief!

Edited by TK-7892
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6 hours ago, TK-7892 said:

 

Wow! This is so great. Thanks a ton for this post. I had always wondered. I know for the side gaps I have seen larger troopers (like myself) in the past with a white cloth instead of plastic. Is that approvable or is that a no go? I wouldn't think so but just wanted to check before I wrote it off completely lol.

 

I didn't point this out earlier, but I have made some modifications to the original armor in adding a cloth belt, adding the white elastic shoulder straps, and changing the ab buttons. Just want to make sure these were good or not before I replace some of the aforementioned parts. 

 

Thanks again, this is such a relief!

You are most welcome we are here to help you, "troopers helping troopers" 

 

We do have a pre approval area if you want to post final pictures for review before you contact your GML again, good way of gauging if you need to make any other modifications 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/

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Also Logan I am happy to work with you and your GML on this. He has already spoken with me briefly and I mentioned we are taking care of you.

Our main goal is to get you approved and out trooping again.

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5 hours ago, Sly11 said:

Also Logan I am happy to work with you and your GML on this. He has already spoken with me briefly and I mentioned we are taking care of you.

Our main goal is to get you approved and out trooping again.

 

Thanks Sly! You guys have all been so helpful. Especially the GML Drew, he has been a pleasure to work with! 

 

I did have one question about the CRL. It says no overlap construction is allowed. I searched the forums but didn't find any examples. I want to be sure I am good on that. Do you have any pictures or definition of what that is? Is that something that my FX armor would have to worry about anyway?

 

I have already replaced some elements of the FX such as adding new buttons on the front and adding a cloth belt. I think all I have left to do for basic approval is get the new bucket, fill in the side gaps, detach the butt plate, and put my holster on the inside of the cloth belt. Hopefully I can get it all taken care of soon. Is there anything else you see on my armor that would have to be changed?

 

Thanks again for all the help!

Edited by TK-7892
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FX can be built butt join coverstrip construction. You cut the pieces so they join in the middle, you then glue a coverstip on the top. This is for ANH and ESB, for ROTJ you use the overlap method.

 

FX is overlap (ROTJ style)

8_F00_CA0_E_4633_4_EC2_88_C8_C1184_F6_D34697878025_854028a567.jpg

Reference overlap ROTJlarge.p1010599_6363435765_o.jpg.9b640ac5

 

ANH/ESB butt join coverstip

gallery_12157_15_34529.jpg4698580390_0ec2687566.jpg 

 

Coverstrip widths

Arms front and back 15mm

Thighs front and back 20mm

Shins front 20mm, rear 25mm

 

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For Basic 501st approval, ANH Hero, Stunt and ESB can use the overlap method (the type you currently have).  If you choose to advance to Expert Infantry level or above, the joins must be separate cover strips.

 

Overlap (construction)-  As used on ROTJ armor, this is where one side of the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf connecting seams overlap the opposite seam, eliminating the need for a cover strip

CGw1Eg9.png?1 

 

Cover strip-  Plastic strip used to cover the bicep, forearm, thigh and calf seams on ANH and ESB armor

  CQS9bhO.jpg?2

 

" I think all I have left to do for basic approval is... fill in the side gaps..."  Technically, there is no requirement for this at Basic approval, but it certainly looks better!

 

Since you are getting a new bucket, at this point you can either go Hero or Stunt.  I would check out the CRLs for each, as the holster placement is different (among other things).  Hope this gives you some insight, and feel free to ask any more questions you have... we are here to help!

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17 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:

How do you always manage to beat me by a matter of seconds, Glen?  :laugh1:

dims.jpg.b42d80117ab95230d0122df47f342884.jpg :laugh1:

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22 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

FX can be built butt join coverstrip construction. You cut the pieces so they join in the middle, you then glue a coverstip on the top. This is for ANH and ESB, for ROTJ you use the overlap method.

 

Coverstrip widths

Arms front and back 15mm

Thighs front and back 20mm

Shins front 20mm, rear 25mm

 

 

22 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

For Basic 501st approval, ANH Hero, Stunt and ESB can use the overlap method (the type you currently have).  If you choose to advance to Expert Infantry level or above, the joins must be separate cover strips.

 

" I think all I have left to do for basic approval is... fill in the side gaps..."  Technically, there is no requirement for this at Basic approval, but it certainly looks better!

 

Thanks for the clarification! I would like to replace my overlap actually because since I did my troops back in the day I have gained a few pounds and my calve pieces are reaaaal snug in the back lol. I just need a few centimeters of space in the back to make them close comfortably. How do bigger troopers usually close those rear gaps without suffocating? :laugh1:

 

I think I might want to just buy some ABS sheets from trooperbay and redo the strips completely but I am unsure how to do it and also stay in the widths mentioned above. How picky is the screen accuracy vs fit on the rear of the legs?

Edited by TK-7892
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Normally we try to keep the front sizing close to standard as that is what the public sees, if you need to size up use larger cover strips on the rear.

 

Most build threads will show how to add cover strips, here is mine, although a different version than ANH

Tony has a great build you can have a look through, explains everything step by step

 

A recent ANH build

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 1/25/2021 at 5:09 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Here is a simple fix that a person used as a starting point. Remember it just needs to look good from the outside though it's always a good idea to make these changes more robust as time and budget allow.

UrdFpxT.jpg

 

Hey Glen, I am finally getting around to finishing my TK armor now that I got my TIE Pilot approved. I was taking another look over your suggestion and saw how simple the shim was in this picture. Is how it is in this picture all that would need to be done to wear a side shim? I had assumed it needed to be seamless (and maybe filled in with ABS paste) but on a closer look, it literally looks like it is stuck up there with velcro. That would be an awesome easy fix to my gap if that is the case lol.  

image.png.7a1eac3fa83321db1048947da9acf09b.png

 

In other news, I learned how to make ABS paste and added an extension for my fat calves :lol:. I also finished a helmet kit that I got from Jason at Intergalactic Supply. I will be posting pictures to the forums for preapproval soon. Looking forward to trooping in a TK again!

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1 hour ago, TK7892 said:

 

Hey Glen, I am finally getting around to finishing my TK armor now that I got my TIE Pilot approved. I was taking another look over your suggestion and saw how simple the shim was in this picture. Is how it is in this picture all that would need to be done to wear a side shim? I had assumed it needed to be seamless (and maybe filled in with ABS paste) but on a closer look, it literally looks like it is stuck up there with velcro. That would be an awesome easy fix to my gap if that is the case lol.  

image.png.7a1eac3fa83321db1048947da9acf09b.png

 

That is an old way of doing them, it is better to glue the shim to the kidney plate, then add a filler piece so it meets with the outer section then add ABS paste, sand and polish. You can get basic approval and L2 approval with a seam showing but has to be filled for L3

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For that matter you won't need side shims for basic approval at all, you will for Lvl 2 up as Glen has mentioned.

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