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BlueBoxFromSpace ATA ANH Stunt (first build)


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2 hours ago, BlueBoxFromSpace said:

 

4qkhn3F.jpg

I noticed in the CRL it says: 

For Level 3, the corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

 

I think I'm either going to have tiny corners or the cloth belt will extend slightly beyond the cuts.

That might be something that gets fixed when I make another belt...

I would just trim your corners to meet the belt and see how that looks, there is no actual size for the corners 

 

One thing which may get a knock back at higher levels is the width of your sewing, having the double V stitch looks quite wide compared to original belts, but that is entirely up to the deployment officers

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gallery_12157_59_224338.jpg

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Hi Aaron,  trimming the corners to meet the belt would be ok. and consider the buttons covers to placement. 

 

 

      cRMwqqv.jpg?2     U73rIOj.jpg?1    uLioEuc.jpg?1   g8j4m4E.jpg?2

 

 

 

:salute:

 

 

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On 5/1/2021 at 5:26 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

One thing which may get a knock back at higher levels is the width of your sewing, having the double V stitch looks quite wide compared to original belts, but that is entirely up to the deployment officers

Yeah, haha, like I said this was my first time sewing so I ended up going over the stitch like 3 times. I'm more than likely going to be making(or buying) a new belt at some point. I just want to finish this one in case there's anymore "gotchas" or other things I'd like look out for next time.

 

 

 

On 5/2/2021 at 12:19 PM, TKSpartan said:

Hi Aaron,  trimming the corners to meet the belt would be ok. and consider the buttons covers to placement. 

 

 

      cRMwqqv.jpg?2     U73rIOj.jpg?1    uLioEuc.jpg?1   g8j4m4E.jpg?2

 

 

That hole got away from me when I was drilling. I don't know what happened. 

 

 

On that note also... I had a few freak outs last week while I was working on the button covers.

 

yUjlRdr.jpg

I realized that the snaps I was using here are massive. I don't know how I missed that when I put them in. These were snaps that I bought locally just to tide me over until I got others from online. I removed them no problem with some needle nose pliers but I'm wondering if while they're out I should patch that old hole that's off and try to drill a new one that's more on target? Or just leave it and correct it with the covers?

 

Which brings me to my next freak out...

 

When I had sanded down the cover and placed it over the snap (ultimately realizing how big those snaps were) I thought I might have sanded too much off of the covers.

oXOy42y.jpg

 

I stopped sanding them and went back to checking references but I haven't personally had much luck in finding good photos

( I think I'm just bad at looking at pictures or something. Every time someone posts an image and says "This is an example of this", I usually see the opposite of what point they're trying to make.)

It feels like what I've done is okay but I'm just always so nervous about removing too much.

 

also the smaller snaps that I have now (the ones I used for the rest of the build) kind of seem like they might be too big. Which adds to the worry that I've removed too much of the covers.

BqzxISa.jpg

 

It might not be clear but the normal sized snap is under that plate. It isn't actually attached though. It's just the one side of the snap sitting loose in the hole.

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2 hours ago, BlueBoxFromSpace said:

When I had sanded down the cover and placed it over the snap (ultimately realizing how big those snaps were) I thought I might have sanded too much off of the covers.

 

 

Hi, the covers are right sanded, I would suggest two options you could try:

 

1- Replace the snap for chicago screws, they have a flat surface so you can place the cover just in place.

 

2- Change the Snap piece , use the flat one instead of the cap one.

 

gCHvsHe.jpg

 

 

 

 

Hope this can help. :salute:

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...



 

2- Change the Snap piece , use the flat one instead of the cap one.
   


BRILLIANT! lol I don't know why I didn't think of that. I think I assumed the cap went there because of the look of the button cover. I don't know what I'd do without you guys.

I switched them out and finished sanding the button covers. I'll post the pics when I get them glued on.

I'm starting to work on the drop boxes but was wondering if there is a suggested depth for them. I saw one sizing of approximately 12mm for the inner and 15mm for the outer. Is this important?

Thanks again for past and future help!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

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10 minutes ago, BlueBoxFromSpace said:

I'm starting to work on the drop boxes but was wondering if there is a suggested depth for them. I saw one sizing of approximately 12mm for the inner and 15mm for the outer. Is this important?

 

This is the reference we usually use.

 

Uffi4zm.jpg?1

 

 

Additionally, this one could be useful

 

 

Y4JMYEk.jpg

 

 

b5tIE37.jpg

 

 

:salute:

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Haven't had time to post lately... So here's an update dump.

 

Here's where we're at with the belt. I still need the holster. I was originally going to try to make one but I think I'll just buy one instead.

 

MQ1kO3L.jpg

 

 

I also ended up switching out the snaps for Chicago screws. So much easier. I don't know why I didn't do that from the beginning. I think I was just resisting buying another type of fastener for some reason.

I'm also going with velcro for now to hold it belt in place on the armor. I'll probably switch to snaps eventually though.

 

BzFExej.jpg?1

 

I started the TD. After a lot of sanding to get the caps to fit, I painted it with just a grey primer for now. Is there a specific color and finish for the TD? The pics I've seen look like it has a slightly glossy finish.

 

PiP78kq.jpg

 

I also finally glued on the Ab button plate. You can also see here the velcro for the belt. 

 

jiDEZFW.jpg

 

I finally mustered the will to continue on with the shins. For me this was one of the most challenging parts of the ATA kit so far. The right shin wasn't bad but the left shin had some issues with the fitting. This is apparently a common thing with this kit. I think a lot of people solve this with either a hot water bath or heat gun to reshape it a little bit. I'm not comfortable with either of those techniques yet so I just made it work the best way I could.

 

5rxOxNy.jpg?1

 

I decided to go with velcro for the closure method on them. I felt like that was the easiest in this case.

 

s6Eawpy.jpg?1

 

It's a little hard to see here but this shows the difference in the ankle sizes. The one on the left is the right shin and vice versa. You can also see some Velcro on the inside of the ankle. I'm having the issue of my shins popping off of my boots and I'm trying out some ways of keeping them on.

 

mJf7fdZ.jpg

 

Speaking of the boots... I got some cheap black Chelsea boots on amazon and painted them white with some spray paint thats for painting car interiors (vinyl, fabric, and leather). And it immediately started cracking... lol. I like the way it looks though. I'm just not sure how long it's going to stay on. Hopefully long enough for me to get a proper pair of boots. Also you can see where I added some Velcro to keep the shins in place.

 

UJr8JAY.jpg

 

So I think all I have left for the armor part is finishing the TD, getting a holster, putting the ammo belt on the thigh, and adding the sniper plate to the shin. As far as the sniper plate goes I marked out some guide lines for where to cut. Do these look good?

 

5ndrvwx.jpgDMQNFnZ.jpg

 

And how much edge gets left underneath? (Don't mind the line there. )

3dsypBp.jpg

 

I feel like I'm almost there and I'm getting excited. I'm just super nervous about moving on to the helmet...

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Moving along nicely, Aaron!  You are doing the absolute right thing by posting lots of images and asking questions.  If you keep this up, I guarantee you will end up with a spectacular set of armor, sir.

 

As for the trimming on the sniper knee plate, this is what I would suggest:

 

1.  Trim off ALL of the return edge on the bottom.  Doing this will allow it to flex, fit snugly against the top of the shin and will help with positioning.  Before gluing, I would post up a pic of it held on with blue tape.

 

otxKADd.jpg

 

When trimming the sides, try not to have a sharp angle, but a slight curve.  Sharp angles are where splits start.

 

uaKXots.jpg

 

You NAILED the 45 degree angles on the ends of the ABS belt.  NICE JOB!  Your left side (second photo) drop box lines up spot on, with the outside edge lining up with the end of the ABS belt.  The right side is a bit off, but this is easily remedied by positioning it where it should be and adding a dab of E-6000 behind the rear strap.

 

FMxrxpg.jpg      WDLWfIW.jpg?1          9jsJL2G.jpg

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I trimmed the knee plate. I'm assuming, looking at some other photos, that the ends (where I have the tape) need chopped off. Then I think I should be good to glue provided you guys think the positioning is correct. The gap underneath seems weird to me but maybe it's supposed to be like that?

 

JFGuNcr.jpg445ZObW.jpgS0rAmYY.jpg

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Got my clips the other day. I was going to try and make them but there's a lot of amazing troopers out there who have them already made so I bought them instead. I decided to buy from Tony because he includes the screws and I have been struggling to find some of this hardware. I also bought rivets from Etsy because I just couldn't find the right ones anywhere else. 

QbtNsqb.jpg

 

Now the TD is complete.

ZKJEApm.jpg

 

And with the Holster attached (also purchased on Etsy from DarmansProps), my belt is complete.

qF4LhlD.jpg

 

I also attached the sniper plate to the shin

n5WU4Uv.jpgk9RXeiF.jpg

 

The only thing left for the body is to attach the ammo pack to the thigh. Unfortunately the only rivets I have on hand at the time are 7mm and 9mm double cap rivets, so that's going to have to wait for a little bit.

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Here are a few links which may be of help

 

 

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1 hour ago, BlueBoxFromSpace said:

I'm going to start this tomorrow and I am terrified.

Just remember "measure twice, cut once"  you can be conservative at start trimming, and if you want some feedback before gluing or making some screw holes, post photos here .

 

:salute:

 

 

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Don't forget to paint the TD screws!:lol:


ZKJEApm-crop.jpg.bc91f5cc0f792baee221372daae240ce.jpg

 

Just kidding, Aaron...You're doing a fantastic job....Taking care of the details to the maximum...I am really enjoying your thread...:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

 

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On 7/8/2021 at 8:26 PM, BlueBoxFromSpace said:

Unfortunately the only rivets I have on hand at the time are 7mm and 9mm double cap rivets, so that's going to have to wait for a little bit.

 

The originals used single cap rivets for the thigh ammo pack connection, but split rivets or double cap are 100% acceptable at Centurion level.  If you need any specific hardware for any part of your build I keep those in stock (sales thread here) at all times and can send you whatever individual pieces you need, just PM me.  

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On 7/9/2021 at 7:54 PM, Chemi said:

 

Don't forget to paint the TD screws!:lol:


ZKJEApm-crop.jpg.bc91f5cc0f792baee221372daae240ce.jpg

 

Just kidding, Aaron...You're doing a fantastic job....Taking care of the details to the maximum...I am really enjoying your thread...:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

 

Haha. You almost had me there. And thanks for the support. :D

 

 

 

On 7/10/2021 at 8:13 AM, justjoseph63 said:

 

The originals used single cap rivets for the thigh ammo pack connection, but split rivets or double cap are 100% acceptable at Centurion level.  If you need any specific hardware for any part of your build I keep those in stock (sales thread here) at all times and can send you whatever individual pieces you need, just PM me.  

Thanks. I may end up hitting you up for some stuff eventually. I had already ordered some rivets, though, so I'm good there for now.

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I had every intention of working on this last weekend... Until I was reminded of a wedding I had to attend. So there went those plans... But I have some time today and I'm definitely going to start this. 

I've been reading a lot of build threads and tutorials and walking through this in my head, and I think I'm feeling pretty confident going forward. Let's see how long that lasts. 

I'm just going to start by cutting off the excess on the cap and face. All the "seams" on these pieces are covered so I'm not super concerned about these being especially clean. They just need to maintain their specific shapes. Most of these cuts are pretty self-explanatory I feel, so I'm just going at it. 

 

All the forehead will be covered by the cap, so I'm just cutting off where it flares out.

oNb7Wf8.jpg

I'm getting rid of as much of the bottom as I can. The trim goes over the opening so that'll be covered.

ZfmlG2h.jpg

Cut out for the ears. Which is then covered by the ears. That being said the thing I might need to worry about is maybe cutting enough (or not cutting too much) to maintain the proper ear angle while still covering seams? 

c50P5PV.jpg

xW6pFUk.jpg

 

I'm cutting the back of the cap right in the valley. Also covered by the trim.

5wMXHre.jpg

 

I don't know how much I want to cut on the sides of the face. This line is just a straight cut to remove a little bit of flare at the end of the tubes. There's an angled line, I'm not sure if it's the flashing, that runs up both sides. I didn't mark it but you can kind of see it here. That would be where the ear overlaps so I don't think it's important. I'm just going to trim my line for now.

Ir3LMRq.jpg

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Trim lines look good, you can trim the top flair of the face plate, you may need to remove a little more once you check fit as it may still push against the curve of the cap. 

oNb7Wf8.jpg

 

Ears will cover most of the backplate seams BUT just watch how deep you cut the top inner corner, also if you use a small drill bit were the trim lines meet it will stop any cracking there. I left a little more material on the lower areas of the backplae where the ears will cover, ATA ears are a little weird how they meet and you can end up with an opening between the two pieces, that's not an issue as the ears will cover but doesn't give you much room for adjusting the angle of the ears.

xW6pFUk.thumb.jpg.b39f34125c630afd5f7795b7fb84e271.jpg.aad8ff1eff0379e6987a35c4a3c287b5.jpg

 

Notice in the below images were the rubber trim stops and the trimmed corner ;) 

 

  oYDEzWK.jpg?1  wAMSyBP.jpg?2

 

Also watch the position/angle of the ears when you come to fit those.

aqL1Zj9.jpg?2

 

I trimmed a little more curved in the two front corners so the S trim didn't pinch, you can always trim off more but you can't put it back. Once assembled try putting the helmet on before cutting your S trim, you will also need to leave a little extra S trim than what you need and force the S trim to fit, the extra length will put pressure on the S trim and keep it in place, most don't need any type of glue to keep it there.

 

Notice the curve in those front corners.

large.insideoflids.jpg.d5cebda953332196a

 

And if you weren't aware you put the helmet on sideways then twist straight when putting on

gallery_14191_19_109513.thumb.jpg.13eca938f86ebb222ea1632b06638115.jpg

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That's a lot of good info, Glen. I already started cutting though, lol. And I got caught up in the thrill of the progress and here's where I'm at..

 

09RhVs3.jpg

 

I got the face and cap trimmed and then I couldn't help but cut out the eyes and start the teeth.

 

ghloc8t.jpg

 

I wanted to post some progress before I finished filing the teeth.

 

1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

 

Ears will cover most of the backplate seams BUT just watch how deep you cut the top inner corner, also if you use a small drill bit were the trim lines meet it will stop any cracking there. I left a little more material on the lower areas of the backplae where the ears will cover, ATA ears are a little weird how they meet and you can end up with an opening between the two pieces, that's not an issue as the ears will cover but doesn't give you much room for adjusting the angle of the ears.

xW6pFUk.thumb.jpg.b39f34125c630afd5f7795b7fb84e271.jpg.aad8ff1eff0379e6987a35c4a3c287b5.jpg

 

 

 

Not quite what you suggested... but it'll be fine right?

IuMl1X7.jpg

 

and the other side:

VxH89c6.jpg

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That's fine, if you bring the back too far forward you end up with a big gap under the brow trim, pushing it backwards will close this gap.

 

Looking good

 

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Teeth

YQxF6QB.jpg

 

I'm enjoying this a lot more than I thought I was going to. But I still have the ears and the painting left so... yeah.

 

I'm going to be drilling and installing the screws to hold the face and cap together, when I get time to do so. I have everything held in place and I marked out where I'm drilling.

jZOP1up.jpgLN9IzF9.jpg

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Ears... Let's take our time. Use all the techniques we've learned thus far. We got this. 

 

It's time for the ears. I've been reading and re-reading build threads and tutorials about ears and I think I'm ready. 

On my ears the mold lines are pretty faint, which I like. I marked them out though as reference for the basic shape, and then I  marked out my cut line. 

The mold lines are in red and my cut lines are in black. I'm not going to cut all the way to the cut lines but I'm going to get pretty close.

528WfZK.jpg

I8VZRXZ.jpg

8KOdq3F.jpg

mPp6c4S.jpg

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Correct, start will more then work your way down. 

 

If you add a step to the top of the ear they will sit better too:

cap ear fit.png027.jpg

 

Great tutorial here

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