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Doomhammer's TLJ FOTK KB Props Build


Doomhammer
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I have some foam between the chest and ab and TD to stop paint being rubbed off, you could reduce that foam a little, you don't want too much of a gap.

 

Continuing along nicely

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

So I took some pictures to check with you if its alright or need more improvements. And had to expand the abdomen and hope it looks more symetrical after the glue is dry.

right thight with un mounted holster from Dan. (does it have to be seamless?)

 

fdC4m1s.jpg

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FKjb4cj.jpgfRBwuzg.jpg

 

left thight

RONQaR6.jpg

 

Left and right shin

 

C1lLSNR.jpg

Xk1elRS.jpg

z69todq.jpg

p6NzMIy.jpg

 

szXD5AF.jpg

 

left and right forearm

 

ECE11Uu.jpgHK47QyZ.jpgAYJpVgE.jpgw9m2pZr.jpgaPtBlgl.jpgDAPoXmE.jpg

 

there is a 1 cm gap at the end of the rail, it seems a bit short in my opinion or does it have to look like this?

 

Z8ivJm8.jpg

 

 

Z7mXnjB.jpg

4fL0aE6.jpg

 

The boxes are held in place by two plastic screws, just like the ab boxes

Ajxzqrz.jpg

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QgYaPjg.jpg

 

I've got in touch with a lokal car painter and probably they will do the paintjob. 

Before the painting, is it better to install all clips and the rails (forearm) first or paint them separately like the box on the forearms?

 

Next issue is the Abdomen with chest and the shoulderbell and bizeps connection, but one by one ...

Edited by Doomhammer
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Some references

large.1492870438_FOTKRLegholstersideview

large.untitledggggg.png.cd36426f034b7e29large.untitled8.png.b9f701a1d7264d6d7f9f

 

I preferred painting my clips separately as I thought the paint could crack between the clips and armor pieces.

 

Nice work, keep it up

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  • 1 month later...

I finished the shins (inner side)

J8DGuN5.jpg

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wcj38ic.jpg

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mlzontY.jpg

 

 

With the shin on the right, I need advice on the two boxes. When I open the shin, a crack appears which is no longer visible when I close it. But since it is being painted, it will break again. But it has to be seamless. How can I fill the gap without it breaking when opening?

 

CMhFOVW.jpg

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IwtRnVp.jpg

 

Filled the little holes/bubbles

XvS87x5.jpg

cjQS73M.jpg

 

The TD will held in place with two magnets.

xJcfzU3.jpg

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sc4ZBcu.jpg

 

After widening the abdomen, I adjusted the TD and sanded the AB boxes again

GMUzNQV.jpg

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jYtLHIY.jpg

 

Most of the time wasted gluing the magnet back on and letting the filler dry.
I sanded the holster so that it fits better and lengthened the back so that the chest fits better. The chest / back has to be revised and somehow the pauldron still has to be attached.
Work my way up from the bottom up again ...

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I find you really have to make sure pieces are securely glued before applying bondo/filler, any movement before applying bondo/filler with crack, I ahd one bad area and used some JB weld as it is sandable and has held up well.

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  • 1 month later...

Google Drive Pics

 

I have now first photographed all the parts that I have worked on.
Next time I'll put it on again and add photos.
With the Cod it is for TFA and not TLJ (a new one will be obtained later) and I am still trying to fix the shoulder bells properly. The red detail is added later on the SC-44E

 

Are there any comments / suggestions as to what I still need to revise?

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Best to add images directly to your post, imgur is a free online image host a lot of us use, you will get better response having your images here rather than off site 

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vor 3 Stunden schrieb gmrhodes13:

Best to add images directly to your post, imgur is a free online image host a lot of us use, you will get better response having your images here rather than off site 

Ok, will do it later when I get home ;)

 

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The two holes are for the shoulder bells, but dont know if I cut on the line and fix them with snaps

 

MMVLHvD.jpg

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TGs9uU4.jpg

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AB with boxes

oROcfii.jpg

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Biceps

jD2U7bR.jpg

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shoulder bells

98lyoGD.jpg

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I marked where the pauldron would sit

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Shins

9KOCwLR.jpg

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HwemrCn.jpg

x5pSYmY.jpg

 

Po8mMGW.jpg

front

OQDC7cU.jpg

side

u9b9IuH.jpg

back

rL9phrZ.jpg

 

OwzUlMM.jpg

ChEr5ik.jpg

FuddBml.jpg

JyzWodY.jpg

 

 

hy5Br9R.jpg

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Cod is TFA and not the TLJ, will change it later

90TJFIo.jpg

jkk4L4o.jpg

 

Spats

9EPLIQH.jpg

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zeQTex4.jpg

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TD

yPHWf1e.jpg

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TD hoked on the back and fixed with magnets

pbDZuO5.jpg

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Forearms

f3y5Sab.jpg

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SE-44C (add red detail later) 

43q4M4v.jpg

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ZXAzma0.jpg

 

3gonUJ6.jpg

J4GxfQh.jpg

 

I hope you can see everything in the pictures.

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Looking good so far

 

Many cut the slots for the bell straps, I preferred not to as this area takes a lot of strain and flex when putting your arms through and over time will crack, I've built up the rear of this area a few times now, I just have the straps underneath.

TGs9uU4.jpg

 

 

You could modify your TD if you felt like it, the CRL is getting under review, the end cap is a full tube which runs the full length of the TD, the top slot and rear panel are then cut out showing the tube, a couple of references 

68c0a0480b0ab3cfdaa9d4b94b557f98.jpg

e21b48a801cbf067ea9e063c032de310.jpg

13bfbfe39975ccff8e3f58a880cf270c.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm in contact with the local squad and have adjusted the thighs, the belt pouches and started working on the TD.
... and the "suitcase" for the blasters is ready.

 

wR5iV0Q.jpg

 

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FzzifR7.jpg

 

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The gray pipe is a sewer pipe which I cut open to reduce the radius.

 

051MMas.jpg

The next step is to cut and bevel the gap

 

v85Eb4A.jpg

Edited by Doomhammer
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Very nice case. Glad to see you are making the TD mod for full pipe, looking good

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great progress Ian and yes it is awesome that you are modifying to make a more accurate TD.

We are working on the TLJ CRL and looking to upgrade level 3 with this kind of modification.

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vor 6 Stunden schrieb Sly11:

We are working on the TLJ CRL and looking to upgrade level 3 with this kind of modification.

 

Is the bottom/end of the TD also cut out? Just cut off the cap and front. 

 

jUexIHf.jpg

Edited by Doomhammer
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