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What have I gotten myself into?


Zinfer
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Oh no you guys are great.  Keeping me straight.  I was being facetiously pouty. Sorry if I came across a different way.  Typing words far easier to misinterpret than speech.  Thank you all  

Hehe. No worries. Glad to hear we’re coming across as helpful.
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1 hour ago, Harder said:

Glenn = 100%

Also, and for reference, one of my degrees is Bachelors I’d Applied Sciences, Mechanical Engineering of Polymer Sciences. Essentially I have been in the plastics industry since 1993.

For drilling and to relieve stress.. you can warm the plastic in the sunlight to approximately 120 to 150 degrees, then sandwich the polymer with two sacrifice pieces OR wood... and drill through it with a NEW sharp bit.

The Tg or “Glass Transition” point of ABS is 220F PVC is 180F.

That’s the softening point to be able to move the polymer chains without breaking... laymen’s “it won’t crack but you can move it.

Thermavacuformed sheets are a little lower. Hence why I’m suggesting 120 to 150.

FYI.


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I've always been interested in injection molding and vacuuforming, recently emphasis on the latter.  But both fascinate me as, if there were home/workshop versions creativity is endless. My costume is PVC but I'd be very wary of heating it up as that could (as in the case with hot tub bending) it can also affect the mold itself but yea it becomes softer and less prone to cracks or stress fractures.   But as you wear the costume, bend and the like I think that's when it's crucial there is a good joint.  But you know more about plastic properties than I, which reminds me I do need to pick up some metric drill bits as I have absolutely none.  Not sure if Menards or Lowes carries them as I've never had a need for metric other than wrenches or sockets.

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Both places carry them. When drilling, I’ll advise then to use a hairdryer. Keep about 8” + away from the plastic. Since you said PVC... also use a small bit and grow the hole with incremental sizes.


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7 minutes ago, Harder said:

Both places carry them. When drilling, I’ll advise then to use a hairdryer. Keep about 8” + away from the plastic. Since you said PVC... also use a small bit and grow the hole with incremental sizes.


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Silly brackets.  There has to be a superior way other than risking your armor.  I mean Glen suggested doubling up with snaps & bracketing.  But honestly it would seem that snaps alone would be preferable with glued on cloth/elastics inner snaps.  As long as you were cautious with glues that wouldn't eat at the armor.

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Ok, so I'mma gonna try to cheat a little on the Cod if I can get away with it.  I am very afeared that I will not be able to initially fit in the clamshell.  At least until I can get down to where I want to be in belly size and weight.  The goal is 170 or under.  Optimally 165 or lower.  Get my size 32 back.  At current 34, but it's not really about your waist, as much as it is above the belly button.  That's my sore point.  Meeting the kidney backplate to the right hand cod is a challenge for me atm.  Sorry a little TMI, but I think that would explain my work with the Cod.

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2 hours ago, Zinfer said:

Silly brackets.  There has to be a superior way other than risking your armor.  I mean Glen suggested doubling up with snaps & bracketing.  But honestly it would seem that snaps alone would be preferable with glued on cloth/elastics inner snaps.  As long as you were cautious with glues that wouldn't eat at the armor.

Many don't heat the armor before drilling, if you go slow and not too much pressure you should be fine drilling the holes, having a support piece of plastic glued behind can help stop cracking.

 

Many of us use E6000 so we don't have issues with the armor, although a I recall a few people have had issues with nickel plated snaps and E6000, I myself have never had any distortion using E6000 and any brand of snap I have purchased 

 

With anything it's always best to trial first, glues or heat you need to have a little experience before attacking the armor straight on ;) 

 

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I mean, I have time yet.  I still have all the E6000 XP coming up with the arms and legs.  This is a beautiful winter long project.  Yea I've heard mention of those plastic support strips under the brackets.  However with the snaps I was referencing Richie's Youtube video concerning the snaps and glues.  It seems like a pretty solid and ingenious idea.  

 

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Silly brackets.  There has to be a superior way other than risking your armor.  I mean Glen suggested doubling up with snaps & bracketing.  But honestly it would seem that snaps alone would be preferable with glued on cloth/elastics inner snaps.  As long as you were cautious with glues that wouldn't eat at the armor.

Personally, I’ve never heard of heating the plastic after drilling holes. Although, I’ve only used ABS before, not PVC.

As you’ll have seen from the RS videos, it’s not usually necessary - just some careful drilling is usually fine.

Don’t forget, the bracket system is totally optional. You can still aim all the way to Centurion without the bracket system, if you wanted.
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1 hour ago, CableGuy said:


Personally, I’ve never heard of heating the plastic after drilling holes. Although, I’ve only used ABS before, not PVC.

As you’ll have seen from the RS videos, it’s not usually necessary - just some careful drilling is usually fine.

Don’t forget, the bracket system is totally optional. You can still aim all the way to Centurion without the bracket system, if you wanted. emoji1303.pngemoji1303.pngemoji1303.png

Is there in fact a kit for the elastics I mentioned above?  Or is it all diy?  I've never actually riveted snaps before.  And that's quite a few snaps.

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Justjoseph I took a second look at the belt and dropboxes.  I think if I could lift it up and boxe dangle down, it'd look just fine.  Here's what I found when I adjusted the straps slightly.  8DjFAzl.jpg

 

EUKWTto.jpg

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Is there in fact a kit for the elastics I mentioned above?  Or is it all diy?  I've never actually riveted snaps before.  And that's quite a few snaps.

I know that RWA Creations sells a complete strapping kit. I used it for my first suit build and it was very good.

I don’t have one single photo of the whole set, I’m afraid, but below gives you a really good idea. This was around £45 GBP when I bought mine a few years back.

0b7edeede8aeaf0c3bb81e68b192c679.jpg

715626379f68d80f9be45e074e4346ec.jpg

5c4a4539c4e1d459b8302a3324fface0.jpg


Optional “popper bases” for avoid the issue of glue and metal popper reacting and warping armour

b7609943e3f6605f26d4927d3629d6c3.jpg
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I can only imagine it's those plastic bases and the glues that Richie likes to use that caused his issue.  He likes the instant solvent glue alot that you brush on.  Can't remember the name but it seems a little overkill.  Thanks for the pics.  Gawd that looks like an incredible amount of work.

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Alright, the Codpiece.  Last of the large armor pieces.  What you think of the trim job?  amature or meh?  SuWoe2u.jpg

I hope I'm within CRL to leave this edge.  It's going to help me in a larger size, narrowing the gap enroute to a smaller size.  This is what I meant by cheating.  I don't know of another way to add in plastic perhaps on the other side that doesn't bounce me outside Centurion.  Nothing permanent, maybe temporary?  RS Rob said he'd talk more about that later, and then never did.  Trying to follow to the letter his tutorials thus far and referring to them often. That's why I mention them alot because I watch him every night. :D

SQgJ9IU.jpg

 

mof4jLK.jpg

 

2ZpDX2P.jpg

 

u7U0iGB.jpg

 

I def need a new diet.  Just don't eat.  With the armor trimmed I tried the kidney plate and codpiece for size.  Man, there is just too much distance between my back and front.  I need to fix this.  This shirt will once again be black someday.

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I can only imagine it's those plastic bases and the glues that Richie likes to use that caused his issue.  He likes the instant solvent glue alot that you brush on.  Can't remember the name but it seems a little overkill.  Thanks for the pics.  Gawd that looks like an incredible amount of work.

Initially, yes - but, just take it one step at a time.

The “practical popper” method video that I posted before is by Ross from REA. He also has a step by step guide on his channel for almost every step of the build. With my first suit (septa’s it was an RWA suit) I followed his videos step by step. I’d never built a costume before but followed them and made it all the way up to Centurion in the end.

You’ll be fine, just take you time. :-)
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I can only imagine it's those plastic bases and the glues that Richie likes to use that caused his issue.  He likes the instant solvent glue alot that you brush on.  Can't remember the name but it seems a little overkill.  Thanks for the pics.  Gawd that looks like an incredible amount of work.

Initially, yes - but, just take it one step at a time.

 

The “practical popper” method video that I posted before is by Ross from RWA. He also has a step by step guide on his channel for almost every step of the build. With my first suit (septa’s it was an RWA suit) I followed his videos step by step. I’d never built a costume before but followed them and made it all the way up to Centurion in the end.

 

You’ll be fine, just take you time. :-)

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The belt is perfect, so I'd leave that alone.  Now that the boxes are in the correct position, just dab some glue behind the rear of the straps and you are good to go.

 

q5CiwWc.jpg?1

 

To answer a LOT of your questions about the bracket system Tony (ukswrath) has in my opinion the best, most detailed tutorial you can find here on the FISD.  Link.  It is just one small part of his incredibly detailed build located here.

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Yea I think if get a dab of glue between the bottom of the straps, near the belt boxes that'll keep them pretty much stationary at those positions.  Trimmed and sanded the shoulder bells but can't do whole lot of strapping until I start assembling the clamshell together. TSNltwy.jpg

 

I guess I'm happy with this.  Just kind of free wheeling it.  Got the 12" measurement marked, 5" at the bottom.  Arced the line a tad and tried matching that on each side of both shoulder bells.vxSBPYc.jpg

Not a ton of return edge.   Are these supposed to be kinda squished?  Not sure it's worth putting them in hot water as the biceps will sit inside here and spread them. 

qvhZBer.jpg

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11 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

The belt is perfect, so I'd leave that alone.  Now that the boxes are in the correct position, just dab some glue behind the rear of the straps and you are good to go.

 

q5CiwWc.jpg?1

 

To answer a LOT of your questions about the bracket system Tony (ukswrath) has in my opinion the best, most detailed tutorial you can find here on the FISD.  Link.  It is just one small part of his incredibly detailed build located here.

Thanks for the link.  

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So, other than some paint I'm kinda stuck waiting on cover strip material for my build.  Now would probably be a good time to begin installing some brackets.  Start this assembly process.  Thanks for the encouragement FISD Troops.

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I started some work on the brackets but I need to buy a 3mm drill bit/set of bits.  Or a 7/64's.  Also started the snap strap for the crotch area.  Can someone tell me if the torso/kidney plate hinge HAS to be so tight?  Is there any room at that joint for us that don't have washboard abs?

 

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With the ab/kidney connection, for Expert Infantry the gap cannot exceed half an inch in width.  For Centurion no gap can be present as seen below:

 

6VKx8ag.jpg?1  EMmvRBk.jpg?1

 

Once you get to the point of fitting (and before trimming) use blue painter's tape to hold them together temporarily and post up some pics of what you have and we can advise from there.

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