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Question on the side.  Planning on adding an icomm and a fan or two if I have helmet room.  Which is better; the Aker 1505 or 1506?  I'm thinking the 1505 but I've never owned one.  Advice?

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Many don't heat the armor before drilling, if you go slow and not too much pressure you should be fine drilling the holes, having a support piece of plastic glued behind can help stop cracking.  

You don't have to use metal brackets although they are screen accurate, you can actually use snaps and elastic all around.   If you do use them the bracket screws can split the plastic

As Rob would say 'This is not for me'.  Watching the tuts, I was like - I can do that!  Now each cut frightens me to death.  My first ever hard armor build.  A RS Propmasters 'Idealized' Stormtrooper.

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1506 is a lot smaller and lighter than the 1505, most use the 1506

 

1506 10watt

  • Dimensions: 3.75” x 2.81” x 1.08” (90mm x 70mm x 27mm)

1505 12watt

  • Dimensions: 4.13” x 3.31” x 1.38” (105mm x 84mm x 35mm)

 

 

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Thanks gmrhodes.  Is that the key advantage or difference with it and the 1505?  I mean other than the wattage (audio loudness?).  Just trying to make the most informed purchase before pulling any triggers.

Edited by Zinfer
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Rodney, just to go back a couple of posts about the shin closures, you most certainly can use Velcro instead of the elastic with bra hooks.

We only judge armour on its outward appearance, not how you strap it all together so do what you are comfortable with and all will be good.

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29 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Thanks gmrhodes.  Is that the key advantage or difference with it and the 1505?  I mean other than the wattage (audio loudness?).  Just trying to make the most informed purchase before pulling any triggers.

No difference apart from size and weight as I said, most position behind the chest plate so 10mm in width can be a BIG difference.

 

If putting in your helmet you want as much room in there as you can get, you have to put the helmet on sideways and twist straight, that's how they were in the movies so adding anything too bulky can get in the way, but in saying that I've seen some strip the plastic section off the amp and just use the internals, you can then spread them out and they aren't as thick ;) 

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14 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Rodney, just to go back a couple of posts about the shin closures, you most certainly can use Velcro instead of the elastic with bra hooks.

We only judge armour on its outward appearance, not how you strap it all together so do what you are comfortable with and all will be good.

Ah sorry,  Sometimes I get so far ahead of myself I forget.

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Question on the side.  Planning on adding an icomm and a fan or two if I have helmet room.  Which is better; the Aker 1505 or 1506?  I'm thinking the 1505 but I've never owned one.  Advice?

I’ve not used or handled the 1506, however, the 1505 is basically the same size as the very popular “TRamp” system. I know troopers of many shapes and sizes that run one of these with their kit and I’ve not heard any issues of it’s size as yet.

 

I have both (see below link) and, personally, find it no problem to fit easily behind the chest plate. I just hang it around my neck with the speaker facing out towards the chest plate. Both are more than loud enough. :-)

 

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3 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

No difference apart from size and weight as I said, most position behind the chest plate so 10mm in width can be a BIG difference.

 

If putting in your helmet you want as much room in there as you can get, you have to put the helmet on sideways and twist straight, that's how they were in the movies so adding anything too bulky can get in the way, but in saying that I've seen some strip the plastic section off the amp and just use the internals, you can then spread them out and they aren't as thick ;) 

Right.  Last I checked it's pretty tight in that lid.  Yea chestplate seems like a good solution as I've seen the inside of many chestplates with the straps and velcro x 2 (Aker Amp and Icomm).  I'm considering adding TroopaCoola in the helmet later.  I think it'd be too tight in there for both. Not sure how some get 2 fans in there AND the icomm AND their head.  :)  Ok.  gots my cart prepped.  Going to check out.  Another time for the Troopacoola.  I've seen many struggle with just getting the mic situated.  Best solution I've seen is put it in your mouth as your putting on the helmet.

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I use the basic Aker microphone and hold it in my teeth when putting on the helmet, very rarely does it come away. I did however had to do some modifications to the metal section as it was digging into my ears so a set of pliers and 5 minutes fine tuning

 

headset_microphone_pic_1_-logo_-wm_-small__68241.1407510244_386_513.jpg.a127f23b901ac89e41c6bf15197016df.jpg 

 

Some people use a wireless microphone but that's just one thing more you have to charge so I don't bother

 

 

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1 minute ago, CableGuy said:

I’ve not used or handled the 1506, however, the 1505 is basically the same size as the very popular “TRamp” system. I know troopers of many shapes and sizes that run one of these with their kit and I’ve not heard any issues of it’s size as yet.

 

I have both (see below link) and, personally, find it no problem to fit easily behind the chest plate. I just hang it around my neck with the speaker facing out towards the chest plate. Both are more than loud enough. :-)

 

 

I will and probably already have taken a look at the Tramp, but I wanna be sure and watch yours.  I think last I checked it out, there was something with the static burst.  It was like I think only 1 sound sample but maybe that's just a preselect thing.  Noticing it's a bit more pricey.

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4 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I use the basic Aker microphone and hold it in my teeth when putting on the helmet, very rarely does it come away. I did however had to do some modifications to the metal section as it was digging into my ears so a set of pliers and 5 minutes fine tuning

 

headset_microphone_pic_1_-logo_-wm_-small__68241.1407510244_386_513.jpg.a127f23b901ac89e41c6bf15197016df.jpg 

 

Some people use a wireless microphone but that's just one thing more you have to charge so I don't bother

 

 

Yea I saw some mention of a low profile, light weight mic on their site too.  I am not much of a running a cable down my arm push to talk guy.  But it's gonna suck when I cough.

Edited by Zinfer
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2 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Yea I saw some mention of a low profile, light weight mic on their site too.  I am not much of a running a cable down my arm push to talk guy.  But it's gonna suck when I cough.

I used the PTT once I think, just found without it was easier BUT you do have to watch some comments you may make from time to time, I slipped up once, was a naughty word :laugh1:

 

tenor.gif

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1 minute ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I used the PTT once I think, just found without it was easier BUT you do have to watch some comments you may make from time to time, I slipped up once, was a naughty word :laugh1:

 

tenor.gif

LOL I can see that happening.  :D

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33 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

I’ve not used or handled the 1506, however, the 1505 is basically the same size as the very popular “TRamp” system. I know troopers of many shapes and sizes that run one of these with their kit and I’ve not heard any issues of it’s size as yet.

 

I have both (see below link) and, personally, find it no problem to fit easily behind the chest plate. I just hang it around my neck with the speaker facing out towards the chest plate. Both are more than loud enough. :-)

 

 

Ok, was wondering why I didn't hear any static burst on the Aker.  Because the Tramp has everything buit in and the Icomm requires the Aker or vice versa?

 

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9 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Ok, was wondering why I didn't hear any static burst on the Aker.  Because the Tramp has everything buit in and the Icomm requires the Aker or vice versa?

 

I can't speak for the Tramp as I've not used one, but the icomm needs the aker amp to work. It has a mic cable in, then the out goes to mic in on top of the Aker. 

 

 

I believe the Tramp is one self contained unit

 

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5 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I can't speak for the Tramp as I've not used one, but the icomm needs the aker amp to work. It has a mic cable in, then the out goes to mic in on top of the Aker. 

 

 

I believe the Tramp is one self contained unit

 

Agreed.  I watched Cableguys' video and there was no static burst with the Aker.  I know enough about the Aker/Icomm setup.  But I wasn't aware the Tramp was one unit alone.  I don't care much for it's static burst sound, it seems muffled/mute add to that it's around $256.  But I mean it's nice it's just one unit.  I mean it does have it's good points in that you could probably run the Stormtrooper chatter maybe at the same time as your mic.  

 

Edited by Zinfer
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Gosh ... and i thaught, i got issues.

Yeah ... the gap between the two pieces, like i have too.

Are their custom duties from great britain to the states?

After all, don´t despair and keep on your work and you will be successful.

 

Greetings

Wolfgang

:salute:

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Ok, was wondering why I didn't hear any static burst on the Aker.  Because the Tramp has everything buit in and the Icomm requires the Aker or vice versa?
 

Yes, the TRamp is built on an Aker unit but with the other electronics built in. No need for separate units.

So, it has the static bursts (they can be switched off if needed). There are lots of various clicks and bursts so it doesn’t sound too fake.
It also has preset voice samples of the character you are using. Within the unit, you can select Stormtrooper, Vader, 3PO, Wookiee, Jawa, the list is over 20 or 30 characters. The samples then relate to the selected character.

It has audio loops for many characters, too, including TK chatter.
To trigger the samples and loops can use this with an optional remote or with optional finger triggers.

The Aker is excellent for the money. No bursts or gimmicks, just a decent sound and no frills. :-)
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12 hours ago, Lupus1202 said:

Gosh ... and i thaught, i got issues.

Yeah ... the gap between the two pieces, like i have too.

Are their custom duties from great britain to the states?

After all, don´t despair and keep on your work and you will be successful.

 

Greetings

Wolfgang

:salute:

I'm not really sure, I mean I've been waiting for quite a while for the coverstrip material.  Said he shipped it before Christmas.  Still not here.  So something is going on.

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FYI a lot of the chatter loops can be found on legion boards https://www.501st.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=28538

 

I use a couple on an mp3 player that I run to the aker amp, depends on what character or what background effect I'm looking for. 

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Alright I'm stuck.  Started some work on the Shins.  Specifically the Left of the RS Propmasters.  So I came across a peculiarity.  The one half is fine, I'll go ahead and trim the 10mm inside edge.  However on it's mating piece, the whole edge is off.  Swinging wildly inward rather than a straight line.  I am not sure which line is accurate.  At first I just did a 10mm measure and went as staright up the rest of it as I could.  However on a couple of sites I've checked out, I'm told to make one mark and just go straight up to the top.  A picture is worth a thousand words so basically:

cx9ewAY.jpg

 

jefPkuf.jpg

 

71doDKA.jpg

 

Stymied which cut to go with?

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25mm in the front?  My plan was 20mm. With 25's in the back off to one side.  I brought over that cut graphic.  Thanks for keeping me straight on the cuts. KHtvCkz.jpg

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