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ANH Stunt - AP Trimmed - First TK Build


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I think I'm nearing the end of my build now. If you have time, I'd love feedback on what I need to work on or change before I post in the pre-approval thread. Thanks in advance for your help and a mighty thanks to everyone who gave me advice along the way. What a ride!

 

Note: I'm yet to make mobility cuts and after today's full fitting will shape the shoulder bridges a little more to get them lower at the back. I may also put some padding inside the AB plate so the kidney plate and AB plate stay aligned on the right side (the bottom seems to swing in a little when the belt is on).

 

PS - I love the wonky sniper plate!

 

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Hey folks, Just letting all and sundry know that I've had my forum handle changed from 'markgambino' (so formal!) to MightyAtom - a nickname from a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away.

I've been glueing snap plates to the chest plate and back plate over the last few days. I think they've turned out ok, but the test will come with fitting.        

A recent Amazon purchase arrived today, so now I have something to read while I wait for the ABS paste to melt. Sent from my Imperial Communicator

Posted Images

TK porn!

Seriously though, great job, Mark. This should be a cake walk for our GML.

My only observation, or question, is whether you could drop your thighs a smidge?
Thank you! What a journey.

Yes, for sure. The thighs are suspended on Velcro straps, so I can loosen and lower them, no sweat.

Sent from my Imperial Communicator

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Superb job, Mark. Not a lot to report, really. You’ve made a really good job of your build and have clearly done your research. :-)

Oh, super photos, by the way. Makes it super easy to see all of the details.

There’s only a couple of areas I’d mention for potential tweaks for those higher levels of details.

Starting from the top, EXCELLENT job on your lid. Really has a lovely ANH vibe to it.

Only little thing I’d ask is; are the insides of you hovi tips white? Might be the lighting, but, I’m they look quite dark in there?

bb386a1926e6b149921f059f9c6de790.jpg


Bicep (Han) hooks; not sure if these will be questioned for EIB and Centurion. I’m not sure if they were ever seen on Stunt troopers (or even most hero troopers) so you could consider just fitting some internal elastics to keep a “troop worthy” bicep position.

4b28586215cd72c3c737ade5a744f837.jpg


Waist belt; I’m guessing this is a Kittle belt? They seem to make them with a very large padded central system. As below, the originals did not have that central section, so you could consider an upgrade for higher levels of accuracy. Not sure how this would go at Centurion level.

c10d08fcd9fc79ed6702051502934984.jpg


Lastly, from the front, the coverstrip on your left thigh caught my eye. This might not be possible due to the AP moulding (inner and outer lower ridge), however, you could consider shortening the coverstrip just a tad. Perhaps finding the middle point between the smaller ridge (inner part) and larger ridge (outer part)?

fa4d8ca9c4a93e682c90a960090da9b0.png


As the parts are different sizes, perhaps find a happy medium?

f5c75acd176006fc7c061684b551d0d5.jpg


Reference;

e0a1fef81371c7a1123c78330a7c527d.jpg



Superb job, Mark. Can’t see you having any problems with basic, and, with a few little tweaks, those higher levels are well within your grasp.

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1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Superb job, Mark. Not a lot to report, really. You’ve made a really good job of your build and have clearly done your research. :-)

Oh, super photos, by the way. Makes it super easy to see all of the details. emoji1303.png

There’s only a couple of areas I’d mention for potential tweaks for those higher levels of details.

Starting from the top, EXCELLENT job on your lid. Really has a lovely ANH vibe to it.

Only little thing I’d ask is; are the insides of you hovi tips white? Might be the lighting, but, I’m they look quite dark in there?

bb386a1926e6b149921f059f9c6de790.jpg


Bicep (Han) hooks; not sure if these will be questioned for EIB and Centurion. I’m not sure if they were ever seen on Stunt troopers (or even most hero troopers) so you could consider just fitting some internal elastics to keep a “troop worthy” bicep position.

4b28586215cd72c3c737ade5a744f837.jpg


Waist belt; I’m guessing this is a Kittle belt? They seem to make them with a very large padded central system. As below, the originals did not have that central section, so you could consider an upgrade for higher levels of accuracy. Not sure how this would go at Centurion level.

c10d08fcd9fc79ed6702051502934984.jpg


Lastly, from the front, the coverstrip on your left thigh caught my eye. This might not be possible due to the AP moulding (inner and outer lower ridge), however, you could consider shortening the coverstrip just a tad. Perhaps finding the middle point between the smaller ridge (inner part) and larger ridge (outer part)?

fa4d8ca9c4a93e682c90a960090da9b0.png


As the parts are different sizes, perhaps find a happy medium?

f5c75acd176006fc7c061684b551d0d5.jpg


Reference;

e0a1fef81371c7a1123c78330a7c527d.jpg



Superb job, Mark. Can’t see you having any problems with basic, and, with a few little tweaks, those higher levels are well within your grasp. emoji16.pngemoji16.pngemoji16.png

Hey Dan, Many thanks for your feedback. I truly appreciate it.

 

The Hovi mic tips are Ukswrath's speakers. I've taken another photo with the flash, here:

 

DzZoG0W.jpg

 

Thanks for the bicep and belt details. I'll make some decisions once I'm looking at higher levels.

 

As for that cover strip ont eh left thigh, yes, I contemplated the position for a while. Your suggestion would look good, so I'll add this to my list.

 

Thanks again and I appreciate your time. :duim:

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Mark, you have an AMAZING build thread going here!  Very nice photography, great questions and SUPER feedback from the rest of the team.  I really enjoy seeing these threads and pouring over them!  So valuable to the new trooper.  I'm learning so much and each one of them is just a little different.  I've thought about why someone hasn't just made an instruction book or guide in how to do this, but fitting them to each human body is such a different challenge each time its done.  It's truly a custom work of art each time!
 
Keep up your fine work, sir, and best of luck in your completion.
 
Now get back to work!
Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. It's been an incredible learning journey for me and the entire Legion had been super helpful.

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Nice work, looking great, I'll just add watch the height of your thighs they differ in the rear photo.

imageproxy.jpeg-4.jpg.e8e524141b38aaef688597069d27f001.jpg

 

Also drop boxes are not aligned in a few photos

imageproxy.jpeg-5.jpg.238682523b0ba873137a77b1475cd550.jpg

 

I wouldn't add mobility cuts, you have some pretty big gaps there now and should get a lot of movement as is.

 

Good luck with approval.

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Nice work, looking great, I'll just add watch the height of your thighs they differ in the rear photo.
imageproxy.jpeg-4.jpg.e8e524141b38aaef688597069d27f001.jpg
 
Also drop boxes are not aligned in a few photos
imageproxy.jpeg-5.jpg.238682523b0ba873137a77b1475cd550.jpg
 
I wouldn't add mobility cuts, you have some pretty big gaps there now and should get a lot of movement as is.
 
Good luck with approval.
Thank you! Yes, you've picked up a good issue here - adjusting the thigh height (also mentioned by Tarok) will fix both the gaps and the drop boxes issue (they seem to have snagged on the thigh edges).

Thank you again!

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FANTASTIC work on your build, Mark! Really a great looking finished product, and just those very few minor details for higher-level approval! You’ll make the Emperor proud!


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Thanks very much! I'm looking forward to joining the ranks!

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On 10/31/2020 at 7:43 PM, CableGuy said:

 

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.

 

Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

 

Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.

 

4a655de05308e645131127de8224f7db.jpg&key=0a8335b76cda02107df2d33c182fcf7b649848329da5a1fd4e5b7c8a99808a96

 

 

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Hey Dan, I've gone over the E-11 specs doc here on FISD and have take your suggestions for fixing the T-rail and scope, and removed the coils. I made a new scope rail out of some scrap metal and it looks great! I'll look at some replacement power cylinders next. Thanks for your advice. 

 

00Qp91Y.jpg

 

6yYMp6p.jpg

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I've submitted my GML! While I wait for a reply, I thought I'd take a look at L2/3 requirements. I have a feeling that the pre-drilled holes in the ammo pack are not to spec and I'm mentally preparing to dismantle the piece, fill holes, sand, smooth, drill, glue, etc. The holes are currently ~14mm from the top and end edges - will this meet L2/3, or what should the measurement be?

 

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Edited by markgambino
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Good luck with approval, I hope you hear back soon, nothing worse than stalking your email account every 5 minutes ;) 

 

There is no position given and I don't think the DO's will penalize position (unless it's miles out), here is the section from Joseph's references

For Level 2 The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge.  Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets.  No pop rivets are allowed. 

 

                                            2pvrAr5.jpg?1   DWl9VRD.jpg?2

 

                                                          Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

 

                                                                               gEglKnJ.jpg?2

 

NOTE:

Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:

 

                                        Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 

 

                nlwDx7l.jpg?1      SyTzqxd.jpg?1   J7iZwBU.jpg?1   

 

Larger reference. If anything the rivet could be brought up a little on yours. Notice also that the lower corner is not fully rounded off, you can see where the curve starts and ends ;) 

gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg

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Good luck with approval, I hope you hear back soon, nothing worse than stalking your email account every 5 minutes  
 
There is no position given and I don't think the DO's will penalize position (unless it's miles out), here is the section from Joseph's references

For Level 2,  The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge.  Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets.  No pop rivets are allowed. 

 

                                            2pvrAr5.jpg?1&key=8e87fbd8d8c6680b44fc40c093418ed0a338ba73969704339e763a1c7034007f   DWl9VRD.jpg?2&key=997188bc6d4a14c649296872a7485aff2a4a00c49ce8c90fd3357738c4853164

 

                                                          Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).

 

                                                                               gEglKnJ.jpg?2&key=0c6a4307a2d0b05df1fea4ef005e9684ad46bcb1e84a88a1ed858800021d19c9

 

NOTE:

Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:

 

                                        Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 

 

                nlwDx7l.jpg?1&key=a1ea199b0a788a7e31b26aa2b83cfaf013b068b1121373ebdfffb2e6b7656a4c      SyTzqxd.jpg?1&key=834b0575f0df7af05e531fe42581e2dd796aafd948743be6696bd7f029414ec2   J7iZwBU.jpg?1&key=c68db223eaa89f41af3e981738f558bd691a6e8fb673aa35d90c5126c61d038f   

 

Larger reference. If anything the rivet could be brought up a little on yours. Notice also that the lower corner is not fully rounded off, you can see where the curve starts and ends  

gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg
Thank you! As always, you're a wealth of knowledge! I'll leave it for now and make a call once I start moving through EIB and Centurion applications. Thanks again.

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On 10/31/2020 at 7:43 PM, CableGuy said:

 

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.

 

Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

 

Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.

 

4a655de05308e645131127de8224f7db.jpg&key=0a8335b76cda02107df2d33c182fcf7b649848329da5a1fd4e5b7c8a99808a96

 

 

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Hey Dan, per your advice I did some research on power cylinders while awaiting my GML outcome. I decided a cheap option would be to make my own! I printed out some photos and went to a local electronics store to assemble anything that could resemble a raw component I could then shape and paint. I'm pretty stoked with the results - thanks for your help!

 

Raw components

2nSeBw1.jpg

 

Testing glue on the glue sticks - metal plate from scrap metal

G83X4aN.jpg

 

Painting

GL5HAU3.jpg

 

Assembling the capacitors

WPlerVz.jpg

 

Soldering resistors

CSZmdG0.jpg

 

Painting and assembly of cylinders

I2Kj5O4.jpg

 

Assembly and painting complete

F9TOK8A.jpg

ROB8diP.jpg

 

The outcome!

ndkoTKX.jpg

WFMcKj7.jpg

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Hey Dan, per your advice I did some research on power cylinders while awaiting my GML outcome. I decided a cheap option would be to make my own! I printed out some photos and went to a local electronics store to assemble anything that could resemble a raw component I could then shape and paint. I'm pretty stoked with the results - thanks for your help!
 
Raw components
2nSeBw1.jpg&key=13622f62d8c488e22c118c7b8c61adba60766d099bc9814d28d2b9b8a9da7721
 
Testing glue on the glue sticks - metal plate from scrap metal
G83X4aN.jpg&key=d6db851a954c46660be44a3c76ccd8c6b01247ada681c8b724f06fa7e5392a4e
 
Painting
GL5HAU3.jpg&key=f796588de7d35d1b372a7311e065f7f573d16c5fc495efa78c210c689a8dc361
 
Assembling the capacitors
WPlerVz.jpg&key=be9bca51d2ef530836b5c905800c92e8014256221274a184a9855bcd6124ac2e
 
Soldering resistors
CSZmdG0.jpg&key=78e1d2bc69cd86f60bdfc6cc37cbacc69633a05661de83a7dbc76c135aa8c15e
 
Painting and assembly of cylinders
I2Kj5O4.jpg&key=532ebfeca4a34ea67392deee979217d332e9034afe31b11c9d0f5947e951880e
 
Assembly and painting complete
F9TOK8A.jpg&key=f6efb0185d089d3b49b3ffed850946927856eb9cea2aa99bc2b226e090ada7ad
ROB8diP.jpg&key=f8d0e8ce571ed1c8ab5ee4505b9d5bdbc2192af11dd71a6b88fc40f72256b04e
 
The outcome!
ndkoTKX.jpg&key=53b5be099e20a5a89f7311f68163821d75acdab4655bcf1c2a43f5083ce9acda
WFMcKj7.jpg&key=968b767b25169c406a6477ad984e0c9ff5a7e59310955761d6d752b5c5453d60

Wow - great work, Mark. What a lovely project, and very nicely done. :-)
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Wow - great work, Mark. What a lovely project, and very nicely done. :-)
Thanks! Short of tracking down a radar assembly from mid last century, it's the best I could do!

Sent from my Imperial Communicator

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Hey team! I've had to resubmit some photos for my GML, but in the meantime I'm looking at L3 requirements for the rivets along the Ab and Kidney plates - I should have checked before assembly because the existing holes may be out. I want to double-check the details here before I start planning anything. So, this is 20mm from the top and 10mm from the edge?

 

3lC86yK.jpg

 

The measurements I currently have on my AP kit are 13mm from the top and 13mm from the edge. It looks fine, but if L3 literally requirements measurements... well, like I said, just double-checking.

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