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ANH Stunt - AP Trimmed - First TK Build


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Awesome sauce, not long now and you will be finished basic approved and applying for higher levels, I have foreseen it  :sith:

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Awesome sauce, not long now and you will be finished basic approved and applying for higher levels, I have foreseen it  :sith:
For the glory of the Empire!

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It feels like I'm on the home straight now. Gluing the thighs is taking a little time, owing to the differences in edges between each half. I had to rip off a cover strip and re-glue because it rode up slightly, despite all the magnets and clamps - SERENITY NOW!

 

I've marked up the tops of the thighs with trim marks, in line with ANH stunt gloriously random thigh tops, but I'll do a fit test with the garter I made before making any cuts.

 

In the meantime, I've glued the bra hook elastics into the grieves. I thought I'd do a strength test first on three glues to work out the best for the job. I figure the elastics will be fine once the grieves are on, but will stretch a lot when fitting and taking off. I glued elastic to a piece of ABS scrap with: contact adhesive (Kwik Grip, in Australia), Zap-RT glue (a CA gluer made for rubber tyres) and E6000. You'll never guess what happened next!

 

996T7UW.jpg

 

LAtqDFi.jpg

 

After two days of curing... the winner is Zap-RT! The E6000 came off with a generous tug; the contact adhesive took more force to pull away; but by far the Zap-RT took some real force to remove - more than I would ever need to pull the elastic and fix the hook in place.

 

Incidentally, I used the Zap-RT last week to make some new gloves (because why not) and the outcome is great

 

HzIDWSb.jpg

 

I have another pair of Joseph's hand guards on the first set of gloves I made, but the latex guard started to lift (the fabric remained stuck to the glove with RT). A few dabs of white silicon and the guard is now sealed closed again.

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Speaking of the garter, here's the design I put together. I've used 50mm nylon, elastic and velcro to make straps that can adjust at the top (velcro), stretch a little in the middle and then fix to the inside top of the thighs with snaps. The belt is a military-style web belt off eBay.

 

Finished strap at the top; cut pieces at the bottom ready to sew.

WSjZMRU.jpg

 

Both straps sewn and ready to fit.

dGe3fSc.jpg

 

Fitted to the belt.

d56bZ7K.jpg

 

The final belt and straps, with snaps fitted and snap plates ready to glue inside thighs.

3azy751.jpg

 

 

Edited by markgambino
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A recent Amazon purchase arrived today, so now I have something to read while I wait for the ABS paste to melt.2c73ff3ae14062e221987581ccc8e84e.jpg&key=f4a1054efffcce3801687783d907ae4385c965dc55f62a11b2476c21e479a7c5

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Awesome book! Does that mean you’re planning for your next costume?


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Awesome book! Does that mean you’re planning for your next costume?


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Ha! Well, I did see a job vacancy at MEPD...

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18 minutes ago, markgambino said:

Ha! Well, I did see a job vacancy at MEPD...

Not that hard just fall over into a muddy puddle :laugh1:

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Is it going too far to import dust from Tunisia for that "authentic" look?

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Too far, or not far enough? The serious costumer flies to Tunisia and rolls around in the dirt (in armour of course).
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3 minutes ago, markgambino said:

CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!

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Might be a few years before we are allowed to fly anywhere at the current rate :P

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I'm making progress on the thighs now, but have a question about the right thigh ammo pack. It's attached quite firmly, but still moves and bit. Is there a preferred way of fastening this to the thigh? Can I just use a dab of E6000?ef9c10d8ad6c7a741899a04e484658a3.jpg

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6 minutes ago, markgambino said:

I'm making progress on the thighs now, but have a question about the right thigh ammo pack. It's attached quite firmly, but still moves and bit. Is there a preferred way of fastening this to the thigh? Can I just use a dab of E6000?

ef9c10d8ad6c7a741899a04e484658a3.jpg&key

I added a few dabs of E6000 on a couple of areas which touch, sides and at the front, stops it moving nicely

 

Looks like you are a tad low on your rivet though, should be ok for basic but may hold you up for higher levels

gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg

 

 

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I mentioned on one of the other post, that I added white gaffer tape on the inside of the center box across into the inside front of the thigh. I did this as an homage to the costume crew from the original movies who’s go to was white gaff tape to fix everything.
It has been there on my thigh for 6 years and worked without fail. It allows a tiny amount of movement but stops the ammo belt from raising or dropping past a few mm.


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I added a few dabs of E6000 on a couple of areas which touch, sides and at the front, stops it moving nicely
 
Looks like you are a tad low on your rivet though, should be ok for basic but may hold you up for higher levels
gallery_12157_78_1344899.jpg
 
 
Thanks for the heads up. This piece was pre-drilled. I'll measure it up and see how it comes in.

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I mentioned on one of the other post, that I added white gaffer tape on the inside of the center box across into the inside front of the thigh. I did this as an homage to the costume crew from the original movies who’s go to was white gaff tape to fix everything.
It has been there on my thigh for 6 years and worked without fail. It allows a tiny amount of movement but stops the ammo belt from raising or dropping past a few mm.


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That's awesome. I do recall seeing your other comment as well. Thanks for reminding me.

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I'm after some feedback on my E-11 - about the coils running from the power cylinders to the Hengstler counter. I've found there are two sightings of this feature in ANH, but the majority of blasters used don't have them. I'm currently modifying a few details on the E-11, so I figure I'll do everything if I need to. Can the coils stay, or should I remove them to reach L2/L3?

 

gRTEHNE.jpg

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55 minutes ago, markgambino said:

Can the coils stay, or should I remove them to reach L2/L3?

As I know, these were only used in certain promo shots and not used in any of the films, but they are allowed for any level. 

 

 

 

,:jc_doublethumbup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm after some feedback on my E-11 - about the coils running from the power cylinders to the Hengstler counter. I've found there are two sightings of this feature in ANH, but the majority of blasters used don't have them. I'm currently modifying a few details on the E-11, so I figure I'll do everything if I need to. Can the coils stay, or should I remove them to reach L2/L3?

 

gRTEHNE.jpg&key=b6b53f8e2cc4deec3d11b528e98f260600a1eb8e7be7cbc5a72a09bfcba9be7a

I'm after some feedback on my E-11 - about the coils running from the power cylinders to the Hengstler counter. I've found there are two sightings of this feature in ANH, but the majority of blasters used don't have them. I'm currently modifying a few details on the E-11, so I figure I'll do everything if I need to. Can the coils stay, or should I remove them to reach L2/L3?

 

gRTEHNE.jpg&key=b6b53f8e2cc4deec3d11b528e98f260600a1eb8e7be7cbc5a72a09bfcba9be7a

Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.

 

Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/

 

Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.

 

4a655de05308e645131127de8224f7db.jpg&key=0a8335b76cda02107df2d33c182fcf7b649848329da5a1fd4e5b7c8a99808a96

 

 

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As Dan mentioned (depending on how detailed you want to get) replacing the power cylinders and adding in the central fuses would give you a really sharp looking weapon.  I used Tino's finishing kit to "make" the fuses, and made the power cylinders and base from scratch.  This is before I attached it to the magazine:

 

pobyCFf.jpg?1

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Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH.
 
Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/
 
Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards.
 
4a655de05308e645131127de8224f7db.jpg&key=0a8335b76cda02107df2d33c182fcf7b649848329da5a1fd4e5b7c8a99808a96
 
 
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Awesome, thanks for the advice. I got this as a 3D kit from Premier Props, on Etsy. https://etsy.me/35O2nhi

I'm actually modifying the scope rail and moving the Hengstler counter forwards to get it to look a little more compact. I could potentially extend the scope rail as well. Thanks again!

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As Dan mentioned (depending on how detailed you want to get) replacing the power cylinders and adding in the central fuses would give you a really sharp looking weapon.  I used Tino's finishing kit to "make" the fuses, and made the power cylinders and base from scratch.  This is before I attached it to the magazine:
 
pobyCFf.jpg?1&key=92cc822ad19740b8e041f6f47fb4068941e54da02071b6b1b34e7cc502761097
Ah, thanks. I've seen a number of power cylinder options around, but have been a little confused about the variety and models available. Swapping them out would be an easy job, so once on enlisted I'll add it to my list. Thanks!

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Mark, you have an AMAZING build thread going here!  Very nice photography, great questions and SUPER feedback from the rest of the team.  I really enjoy seeing these threads and pouring over them!  So valuable to the new trooper.  I'm learning so much and each one of them is just a little different.  I've thought about why someone hasn't just made an instruction book or guide in how to do this, but fitting them to each human body is such a different challenge each time its done.  It's truly a custom work of art each time!

 

Keep up your fine work, sir, and best of luck in your completion.

 

Now get back to work!

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