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Darth Shizl's ANH TK Hero WTF build


Darth Shizl

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Hey all! Starting my second 501st costume and I decided to go back to the original that started it all. I've got the pieces trimmed and sanded, and am getting into sizing it down (I'm 5'7" 165#). Aiming for Centurion bc why not?? I've had my WTF BBB for about 2 years and just lately during lockdown did I start to make real progress on it.

 

Lessons learned the hard way so far:

 

1. This plastic shows *everything*! Be super careful with cuts and sanding; there's no removing the evidence later. (I was spoiled by my CW ARC for having all the Bondo and paint to cover up mistakes!)

 

2. Cutting cover strips to width is super tedious, and straight lines are harder than they appear. Invest in clamps and magnets, and then buy double that amount.

 

3. CA glue and Zip Kicker are great for instant gratification, but they can wreak havoc on the finish of the plastic.

 

4. No matter how much research you do, you will have questions you never thought to ask. This is what the build thread is for (hopefully!) So, without further ado...

 

I've started assembly with the left forearm. It's pinchy at the top and seems loose at the wrist. (I was cursed with narrow wrists and wide hands.)

 

1. Should I use and elastic closure so I can cut the wrist narrower and still allow it to stretch open to fit my hand through?

 

2. What do I do about the wickedly misaligned top edges?

 

3. The return edges at the top are super pinchy. Can I trim those down or remove them altogether?

 

4. Are minor sanding scuffs going to tank my Centurion status?

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/g5Kq6uF

 

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

 

 

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13 hours ago, Darth Shizl said:

Should I use and elastic closure so I can cut the wrist narrower and still allow it to stretch open to fit my hand through?

 

2. What do I do about the wickedly misaligned top edges?

 

3. The return edges at the top are super pinchy. Can I trim those down or remove them altogether?

 

4. Are minor sanding scuffs going to tank my Centurion status?

You shouldn't need to use elastic on the forearm - just size it so you can just get your hand through. I have narrow wrists too - the gloves help fill the space.

 

The top edges are like that.  You can leave it as is or trim them even once the coverstrips are on - check out the gallery for examples of screen used costumes.

 

Yes, if you want to lose the return edge on the top of the forearms then go for it.  As long as you are somewhat consistent with return edge, the amount of return edge is a personal preference or comfort thing (except for the wrist, there should be no return edge there).  Return edge on the torso pieces are necessary for functional reasons (keep back and kidney from overlapping, using the bracket system if desired, etc).  

 

Minor scuffing is screen accurate. :)  You should be fine.  Post some pics when in doubt.  Oh, try embedding the pics right into the post - it makes it easier for people to see and comment.

 

Good luck, trooper!

 

Oh, are you using CA glue?  I highly recommend E-6000 instead.

Edited by wook1138
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You'll definitely find you will receive more feedback posting separate image links into your thread, if you use the "direct link" and paste straight in you should have no issues. 

QIdjMYJ.jpg

 

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Thanks for the help, everyone! New questions, this time about the top edges of the forearms and cover strip length/placement:

 

1. As you can see, the top edges don't line up. Do I run the cover strip to align with the shorter piece, or the longer one?

 

2. Do I cut it straight across, or more  in line with the transition between the two pieces? I think I've seen it both ways, but the quality of the images makes me question what I'm seeing.

 

X93gHUb.jpeg

 

qmRoSxB.jpeg

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That’s no problem. The originals didn’t always match up, either.

Here’s examples.

-----------

b21638de5442d6c24feee47eabb366d4.jpg

Notice how the coverstrip stop on the shorter of the two pieces.

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Some do decide to cut off the access as they can cause armor bites if left. If you do trim you can leave a little material then use an iron to push over the excess to make a return edge so it finishes nicely.

 

This thread using a sealing iron but I have used a regular iron before with baking paper so it doesn't stick to the plastic.

 

 

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All great info, thanks everyone! I'm in a bad news/good news situation now. The bad news is, I noticed some yellowing going on and I had to contact WTF for some replacements. (Side note: he responded almost immediately and the cost was so insanely cheap, I tossed him an extra $20 just to approach what I thought was a fair price!) I decided to go ahead and build what I had anyway. I figure it's at least good practice, and maybe I can use them in a Sandtrooper suit down the road or something. :td:

 

Now, here's the part where I dump a ton of photos and ask you kind folks to tell me all the things I screwed up - so I don't screw them up on the new set! Some things I'm really unsure about:

 

1. Is the same type and thickness of plastic used for the cover strips as for the armor itself? The sheet I'm carving from is much thicker and stiffer, and it's causing issues with trying to get both sides of the strip flush with the armor surface.

 

2. How long is unapprovably long for cover strips? I'm afraid I might be at or near that limit with my right bicep. This cover strip also ended up off-center. 

 

FTv4W8K.jpg

 

3. I had some issues with joining the pieces of different curvature that led to a wavy surface. When I couldn't get edges to lay flush, I always ensured the front-facing edge looked good and let the back edge float however it fell. Any problems there?

 

YQKHlXr.jpg

 

4. How do you get a camera to focus on the armor instead of the background? My Galaxy S10 just won't focus on it instead of the background! (This last one isn't an approval question, but I'm still stumped.)

 

There's actually a ton of pictures over here: https://imgur.com/gallery/0AtmsqT

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  • 2 months later...
On 8/22/2020 at 4:43 PM, Darth Shizl said:

I had some issues with joining the pieces of different curvature that led to a wavy surface. When I couldn't get edges to lay flush, I always ensured the front-facing edge looked good and let the back edge float however it fell. Any problems there?

 

Hi Adam, what I usually do for the curved sections, mainly for the forearms is to add a piece of wood, ( you can use other material that is firm (, along the cover strips (outside  and inside) and clamp it.

let dry for 48 hours.

 

6m8IYF3.jpg?1    gLxvaEC.jpg?1

 

 

hope this can help.  :salute:

 

 

 

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Also using tape can help push down troublesome areas. Push down firmly so the sides squash a little then apply the tape

MEmkFvK.jpg&key=59e9a931f8d7e9bcadb02dce284a91z.jpg&key=830d64ba9e713bddbf9b801f

 

 

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