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My first ANH TK Build-Assistance Welcome! (ATA)


Phat Rob

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Happy Veteran's Day everyone! I hope everyone is enjoying themselves and their families as we honor and recognize all who have served this country. Today's share will be a mini-drop showcasing the shoulder bridges. As you can see on the front side, I've got the front tab and two ridges overlapping the chest piece. Even at this placement you can see that it pretty much already touches the creases on the chest. From the back side you can see that the shoulder bridges extend all the way down until they almost touch the back detail.

gHJkRfZ.jpg

 

2n1YZU5.jpg

 

Also you'll notice that the shoulder bridge is waaaay off-center on the right side there. Looks like I'm gonna have to realign that shoulder bridge.

DsBbjcp.jpg

 

So yeah, I'm thinking about moving the shoulder bridge further down the front to have the front tab and  three or four ridges overlapping the chest piece. As always, any thoughts, concerns or suggestions are most welcome and appreciated. Thanks, guys!

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Hi Rob, most cases three or four ridges are ok. and the rear tab is usually removed, but I would recommend to wait till the end to do so just in case you need it.  Also you can take a look to the Gallery Section for ANH  Stunt HERE 

 

                                         Reference images  

 

MAjDFVK.jpg     tdMc6pW.jpg?1    gqtHZ4o.jpg  z4FXqB6.jpg?1

 

 

:salute:

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It might be nice to get the rest of the torso armor (ab, kidney, posterior) on so you can check all the gaps to ensure the chest and back are situated properly vertically. But in general I do think you're right that there appears to be room to shift the bridges down the front.

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Adding your shoulder straps should be done after most of your armor is complete and on, you want to make sure everything is sitting right before adding them.

 

I can't see how they are sitting on the front but screen reference show there is the one large tab and 4 to 5 smaller ridges on the chest plate, although you can have less

 

gallery_12157_16_28971.jpg

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While today's share consists of the ab piece and kidney plate I'd first like to thank you guys for your suggestions regarding the shoulder bridges.

Thanks Mario for your insight pertaining to the amount of ridges overlapping the chest piece. I do plan on moving the shoulder bridge forward slightly to have three ridges and tab over the chest area.  Ideally, I do plan on removing that rear tab but I won't commit to that until I see a perfect fit. Of course, another fitting will determine how well everything looks. Thank you Caleb for your suggestion to don the ab and kidney pieces to ensure a more proper fit-I plan on doing just that when I check for my next shoulder bridge fitting. Last but certainly not least, Glen, I also appreciate your echoed recommendation to arrange a more thorough fitting that includes more adjacent parts. 

 

In the meantime, let's take a gander at what I've worked on... First, I have sanded the abdominal piece to reflect the more angular edges apparent towards the groin area.

tJujw9S.jpg

GJYACta.jpg

 

For the top portion of the ab piece I have kept one centimetre of space from the corner to the edge of the plastic to allow for harness hardware.

1pUxLKt.jpg

 

Next, for the bottom area of the kidney piece I've merely cut along the area where the return edge meets the flash. If there are any other insights regarding the "ideal" or more effective cut for this area I will most certainly consider any suggestions. 

CmFpb6I.jpg

 

The top area of the kidney piece has a full centimetre of space between the corner and edge of the plastic. This is to hopefully, prevent the kidney or chest piece from riding over each other. If this is not correct I will make the proper adjustment depending on any suggestions. 

VZ9k4Pg.jpg

Soooo as my wife and I were fitting everything last session we noticed a nice inch and a half gap where the kidney plate edge should meet the ab plate corner. Thanks to my big, fat gut I am one of the lucky ones that gets to shim along the kidney plate! Yaaayyyy! Check a look at the proposed shim attachment and the first round of ABS paste applied to the inner and outer shim pieces. 

texg0Gr.jpg

CVopRZS.jpg

 

Alright, so I'm going to apply another layer of paste and hopefully that'll do it before I sand that mess to a velvety smooth finish. I'll post my results before attaching to the kidney plate. Once I receive the blessing of this community I'll attach the shims to the kidney plate and proceed with paste applications and sanding. Yuck. I'm not looking forward to this haha.

 

Lastly, it's butt plate time! Looking at the CRL and the trim outlines of the butt piece I see that the corners are distinctly more angular. Hence, this is why I plan on retaining those sharp angular corners when I trim and sand. What say you?

9XZlUd3.jpg

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That's it for now fellas! On our next visit I plan on sharing some more fitting pix and hopefully get a little closer to solving the riddle of the shoulder bridges. In the meantime I await your always helpful advice and suggestions. Thank you so much guys!

 

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All your trim lines are looking good.

 

Just wanted to ask are you using the pieces shown here for the shims as the right one is quite wobbly and indented, if so you may want to use some coverstrip material for a flatter look.

texg0Gr.jpg&key=de0969a5cdc308bf520e8f95

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1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Just wanted to ask are you using the pieces shown here for the shims as the right one is quite wobbly and indented, is so you may want to sue some coverstrip material for a flatter look.

Yeah that right shim has me a little worried as well. I think I'm gonna cut that top section out and replace it with a much flatter piece I think. Thanks Glen.

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Yeah the right-side shim appears to be a part of the excess flashing. I have some of that exact stuff in my “trash” 2-gallon ziplock bags. Since ATA sends two sheets of spare ABS for cover strips you should definitely have enough to cut some for the kidney shimming.


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4 hours ago, Phat Rob said:

Yeah that right shim has me a little worried as well. I think I'm gonna cut that top section out and replace it with a much flatter piece I think. Thanks Glen.

I would however make sure you cut all of your cover strips before using excess material for side shims, you don't want to end up with a piece too small ;) 

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  • 6 months later...

Oh man, it's been a while lol! And with good reason at least haha! Ya see, I had hoped to have most of the trimming and fitting work done before our first born introduced herself last December. Well, our little one had something to say about that and decided she was ready to hatch a few weeks early! So on Thanksgiving Day appropriately enough, little baby was born! Meet Frances Leonor, the newest member of the Galactic Empire! Coincidentally, she goes by "Lea". That is pure coincidence and not a Star Wars nod I swear haha!

fT55tOp.jpg

After moving across the country a few months back and little Lea FINALLY sleeping through the night I now have the time to devote at least a couple of hours a week to my armor. I've decided to forgo adding shims to the sides of the kidney plate (or was it the ab plate?- idk). This gives me a reason to lose weight and maintain a healthier lifestyle so that's gotta have some worthwhile benefits right? 

 

Taking baby steps (No pun intended lol) I'm now gonna work on those little nick-nacks like the gloves, ab attachments and thermal detonator-or is it the o2 canister? Today's progress is just me sharing how I've measured the canister for eventual cutting. For accurate measurements, I've referred to several threads including :                                                                                                                                                                                    

 

Without further ado... Here are my tools of the trade.

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And the measured pieces.

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I've got a PVC pipe in mind for the actual canister piece but would like to clear it with more experienced builders first. I've managed to track down a 2.5" pipe which I'll of course, color the right shade of gray. I'll have to do more research on the best paint. And hey it's shipped from my state!

https://tinyurl.com/4mck9ke9 care of Ebay. Is this a good find or am I completely barking up the wrong tree?

I, of course, will be ordering those super nice clips from Ukswrath. I hope they're still available haha. 

So that's it for this week's post guys. I eagerly await your well-educated responses and suggestions. Thanks as always!

 

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Hi Rob! Great to see you back at it, and congrats on your little one! That's sorta what happened to me in a way; an infant, COVID, and work. I got a little obsessed with my TD build back in the fall, and below is a link to the first of my two current posts on that component.

 

 

As far as your pipe size is concerned, you can actually simply pick up any 2" (which is measured as the inner diameter) PVC pipe at any hardware store. Instead of a long 8' section, I grabbed a 2' length at Lowes or HD. If you get white or black, you'll need to paint it, but if you get the gray conduit, you can likely leave it unpainted. Part 2 (at the very end of the post) of my TD build goes quite in-depth into the diameters of the pipe, and it's important to know that the original props were 68mm outer diameter, while most US and Canada makers use the imperial (haha) 2" measurements. ATA is no different, which is what my armor is, and the end caps fit the 2" pipe.

 

As for the paint color, I initially painted mine too dark (using Ukswrath's old suggestion), but Andrew pointed out a primer (Testors 1237 spray primer, used in conjunction with a shiny clear coat). Since the TD color is meant to match the gray paint on the helmets of TKs, I actually found Testors 1238 (the spray version of the liquid 1138) to be a perfect match, though I haven't documented that on my build thread yet.

 

Hopefully this is helpful to you! I look forward to continuing to watch your progress!

 

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14 hours ago, Phat Rob said:

Meet Frances Leonor, the newest member of the Galactic Empire! Coincidentally, she goes by "Lea". That is pure coincidence and not a Star Wars nod I swear haha!

 

Congratulations for your little girl Rob!!!  :happyandcheerfulbirthday:   

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Good Morning! Back for my monthly armor update! Last month was devoted towards finishing the gloves and the thermal detonator, Thank you @justjoseph63 for the glove order and the flexible hand guards! Even if they are essentially chemical gloves they look and fit great! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/  The hand guards are also spectacular! 

RF4rfrc.jpg

 

To ensure the best centering, the gloves were marked with a Sharpie and blue tape. Before sanding these guys, I etched scoring marks with an x-acto for that added layer of traction for gluing.

SOeEP5G.jpg

 

Good ol' nail polish remover was used for removing the printed text.

w5MZmDd.jpg

 

Here's how the guards sit at the knuckle and with a closed fist.

F2bTXCV.jpg

 

Aaaand open palm...

YCT1aT1.jpg

 

Alright, continuing the work on the thermal detonator here's what we have so far... Thank you to @ukswrathfor the Belt Clips! Superior craftsmanship and hyper fast service! 

 

PPU8jKx.jpg

 

Thank you @MaskedVengeance for your guidance regarding the detonator. It certainly made life easier when acquiring the necessary items for completion. For the detonator body I ran down to the local hardware store, purchased a 2" PVC and sawed it down to size. I eventually whittled it down to 6 3/4", filing down a bevel along both rims.

p0OV6VJ.jpg

 

As you see among the snapshot of items used, I bought a spray can of Testors 1238 to achieve that dark gray tone. I have assembled all of the pieces to fit for eventual fastening, Before I fasten everything, I just wanted to clear all of the measurements first. From end to end, the canister is 7 and 1/4". (I know the pic looks like 1/2" but it's not.) The width between the middle panel and end caps is 1/2", There are some different angles to make sure everything sits correctly.

Vjc6RqZ.jpg

 

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I know it's not much but believe me I'm trying. Looking after little LeeLee requires my full attention nowadays but I wouldn't trade that hard work for anything. I will not fasten anything until I receive y'alls well-experienced knowledge and blessings. As always, my humble thank you's for your help and time! I ALWAYS and SINCERELY appreciate it!

Edited by Phat Rob
Forgot to recognize for help
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Hi Rob, those handguards looks great !!  

 

About the TD, if I can make a suggestion. consider the allocation of the TD panel in such way that the rounded washer detail looks more to the front than upwards . I suggest to trim a bit the bottom section to allow the panel rotation to the front.

 

 

 

XuyBmVC.jpg

 

 

Reference Images

 

 

               ZuT6yns.jpg                     H0oWKfi.jpg

 

 

8cd9R1e.jpg?1  hoye3pt.jpg

 

 

We are here to help. :salute:

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You are moving along at a fantastic pace James, and are doing all the right things!  As I say to all who start a build- Take....your...time, ask lots of questions and post up lots of photos before cutting, gluing or adding hardware.  When in doubt, ask.

 

Mario hit the nail on the head about the TD plate placement, so you will be good to go there if you follow his advice.

 

Keep on doing what you are doing and know that we are here for ya'.

 

P.S.  AWESOME tip about using nail polish remover to get rid of the text on the gloves.  I am SO stealing that idea and adding it to my sales thread.  THANKS!

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Hello Rob. 

If I can make another suggestion, you may also be able to trim the left TD cap a bit. The distance between the cap and the panel, looks a little narrower on that side.:jc_doublethumbup:

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                        Reference Image

EEInCXe.jpg    do5Zs1D.jpg            hoye3pt.jpg

 

 

Rob, you are doing an excellent job on your build!. Congratulations!!!:th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Good morning! And thanks @TKSpartan and @Chemi for your suggestions regarding the final adjustments to the detonator. As you can see, I've shaved off a bit from the bottom of that middle panel (1 cm) and simply rotated said panel towards more even cap-end cuts.

SSxn8c3.jpg

 

Az1VPRT.jpg

 

wkdQoTh.jpg

 

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I also noticed that for some reason I never actually trimmed, sanded and smoothed the butt plate. Referencing the CRL, the edges are angled.

lX1oPQc.jpg

 

nY1FfSh.jpg

 

cXnbnzm.jpg

 

Oof. And now the area I've been dreading. The bucket. So bear with me on this guys. Before I decided to try my hand at completing a 501st approved full TK suit I had ordered my ATA Works bucket by itself just as a project. Of course, this thing is RIDDLED with...discrepancies haha. Oh my lord, here goes...

What I'm not sure about are the comm tips and the paint on the grill-but let's be honest I'm sure they need some adjustments.

The ear pieces are very much sub-par. It looks like there's a lot of return edge still on that upper section. I plan on severely trimming this to drastically reduce the empty space between the helmet and ear piece. 

 

ZZum03D.jpg

 

The blue stripes were created with my own stencil (obviously lol) and will need reworking I'm sure. I'm leaning towards decals so if anyone has any insight or suggestions I'm all ears. Any overspray will be washed off.

The cheek markings were also hand painted and do not appear symmetrical from left and right sides. Also leaning towards decals while keeping the original black and gray paint borders.

 

cRlh9fs.jpg

 

The left side looks slightly better I think. Still gonna fix.

 

47Bg4iJ.jpg

 

ww114AS.jpg

 

EgyOHhE.jpg

 

The black grill lines are pretty rough. Again, I think I can keep the black and gray paint job but would like to paint over the grill lines and replace with some sweet decals. What'choo think?

 

ZxEgFPm.jpg

 

Oh man this is embarrassing. So you can clearly see that the hardhat suspensions are on backwards. Again, all overspray will be washed out thoroughly along with any dirt. Other than that I'm really not sure. All suggestions are most welcome.

 

cM4twkN.jpg

 

oN3zOmI.jpg

 

I feel like I'm 8 years old, my dad just found out what trouble I've been into and the whippings are finally over haha.

Thanks again so much for your always helpful suggestions and ideas!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Phat Rob
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The helmet can be the most frustrating part of most people's builds. but yours is coming along nicely!  A few paint issues that should be pretty easy to remedy, but hang in there... you are on the right track and doing great!  If I could make a few suggestions they would be:

 

As per the CRL for Basic approval, the paint on the teeth should not extend into the gum area.  Most of yours are perfect, but there seems to be a bit much on the tops of the ones shown.  A little non-acetone paint remover, a toothpick and some Q-tips and you will have it nailed!

 

h69PlhL.jpg

 

Note in the reference image how the paint in the tears goes all the way to the inside edges (just like your side and rear traps).  NICE job on the stripes!

 

vFR2pQm.jpg                fSQFSBD.jpg?1   

 

A valiant effort on the tube stripes, Rob, but as you mentioned it would be best to remove the ones you have.  If you want to go with decals (no white background) I will send you a set (no charge.. I'll even pay postage).  Just PM me if interested.

  ldgW9or.jpg?1

 

Not the biggest of deals but certainly an easy fix here.  The brow trim should be a little shorter. ;)

1gw2K9r.jpg

 

I know the ear gaps are bothering you, but as seen below many (if not most) of the originals did indeed have gaps (part of their charm).  Your left one is perfectly acceptable at all levels, but your right one could use a small trim.

 

BrmwOct.jpg           QbxX8pk.jpg?1   tJOsmmg.jpg?1   L806LGw.jpg?1

 

SUPER nice alignment on the ear screws!

wgUJAcF.jpg

 

Last up, I noticed that there appears to be a small anomaly on your posterior plate.  That (and all) areas should have a smooth finish,  The reason being is that small areas like that can be prone to cracking.  An easy fix with some sandpaper!

 

cMAHd3i.jpg?1        jpNbXgh.jpg?1

 

Keep up the awesome work, Rob, and keep those photos and questions rolling in!

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To help the ears sit a little flusher you could add a step to the top portion of the ear so it sits down a little more were the back plates steps down to the front plate, thread here: 

 

cap ear fit.png

 

027.jpg

 

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  • 1 month later...

Happy Labor Day! This well-earned holiday brings you a monthly update focused on the helmet! Let's start with the frown! Using some extra-small q-tips (You can find these at Hobby Lobby.), paint thinner and good ol' 1138 Gray. (That CAN'T just be a coincidence lol!) for touch-ups, I managed to neatly trim those trouble areas.

YQOLBmk.jpg

 

2dA4Svc.jpg

 

Onto the tears. Using some Gloss Black paint, I expanded the black outline, which of course, resulted in having to completely repaint the tear lines. 

a4EHE9d.png

 

In this next pic, you'll also notice the difference that decals make in comparison to my previous, hand-painted effort. BIG Thank You's to @justjoseph63 for sending me a set of FREE blue decals! They obviously make a HUGE difference! BTW the sticker was applied before the ear piece was removed to ensure a proper fit. Also note the brow trim's...trimming haha.

 

lUn22dO.jpg

 

For these decals, I not only used paint thinner to remove the previously-placed blue paint, but Goof Off, as well. There were some expected stains that I knew would be difficult to completely remove.

 

kOvOIF2.jpg

 

This next pic shows a more obvious stain.

 

6PZ91JG.jpg

 

I made sure to use the pencil test to guarantee a proper width from the corner of the cheek.

 

I0iPP2M.jpg

 

Next, I decided to adjust the black lines as seen on the back gray areas of the back. I used a not-so-successful masking method to produce straighter lines. I'm not sure if it's an improvement-which is a shame cuz this was truly tedious work.

 

HE9qI9U.jpg

 

J4IYeyd.jpg

 

Lastly, I removed the lining along the bottom of the bucket to remove the predicted stains. Yup, I see the two prominent stains along the bottom there, underneath the comm-links. I'll be sure to take care of those. Also, as much as it pained me to decide, I'm gonna go ahead and redo those ear pieces. With my experience adjusting all of these pieces, my confidence has greatly increased and I know that I can do better. Aye aye aye, what am I getting myself into, lol?  Hopefully, next month I will be showing off those new earpieces with minimal to no space shown between the ears and bucket!

 

ckmFoGd.png

 

That's all I had time for this month, ya'll. (Life is crazy with a baby and a wife who's in grad school haha!) In addition to the improved earpieces, next month I will include work on the hardhat suspensions and bottom-liner mounting. As always, your help and suggestions are most invaluable and appreciated and I can't wait to see what you have to say about the latest and greatest. Take care y'all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Phat Rob
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Just make sure the fall of your tube stripes are from the top falling forward. Notice they shouldn't go over the crease line 

467192065_Screenshot_20210906-201324_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.01fe4e56f263c0a74df89ed908577342.jpg

5882a886ffaf6a600db74814550fb6d7.thumb.jpg.da350993124e2a83ea906eb639b609b4.jpga75b8a066f57c1b745a6083884119cde.thumb.jpg.bf24ae6564a3da332e2882f245ce1a3a.jpg

 

You may also want to look at the spacing of your stripes in the traps, the are a spaced a little differently 

490649393_Screenshot_20210906-200921_SamsungInternet.thumb.jpg.da1bf089e807bea895ebd734dc047841.jpgScreenshot_20210906-201021_Chrome.thumb.jpg.2190c40eff49f4e20c2d6b9b6f5cb788.jpg

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