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TK-11764 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status (AM) (978)


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Trooper Info:

Name: Steve McDaniel

TK #: TK-11764

FISD Name: Trooperwarden

Garrison: Florida Garrison

Height: 5’11”

Weight: 249

Costume Info:

Armor: AM

Helmet: AM

Neck seal: Darman

Belt: Trooperbay

Boots: Jivana

Holster: Darman

Blaster: Hasbro with DH/FX conversion kit

Hand Guards: Rubber Gloves and Latex hand guards from Trooperbay

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Thank you for your time.

Respectfully.

 

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Hi Steve, and THANKS for your submission for EI!  Before we can "move along" there are a few issues we need you to address and a couple of photos.

 

1.  As per the CRL for Level 2, "...the rim of the mic and inside is white or painted white".  The rim is spot-on, but the interior needs a coat or two of white paint.  Easy fix!

 

Du1TiPs.jpg?1    1Bs0fdU.jpg?1

 

2.  It may be the angle of the photo, but for Level 2 any shims must sit flush with the kidney.  The right side looks good, but the left side appears as if it's sticking out (not flush).  Can you provide a close-up detail photo of this area for us?  (No need to suit up).

 

WI0KhxX.jpg

 

3.  One last thing, can you add a close-up of the rear of the TD showing the screw type?

 

Many thanks, and I look forward to seeing the results, trooper!  :jc_doublethumbup:

 

 

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  • justjoseph63 changed the title to TK-11764 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status (AM)

OK Sorry about the pics. Here are the close ups you requested. The hovi mics were painted by Dave Conklin as part of the helmet when he sent the kit (Dave's Darkside Depot). I think it was the position of the helmet when the picture was taken and the lighting.  I'm posting left and right tips.  Close up of the shim and kidney. They are inline and flush. As you thought, it was the angle of the pic. And last, the close up of the TD screws (single slot screws). I hope these help.

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Respectfully,

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Hi Steve, and thanks for the pics!  Unfortunately, as per the CRL for Level 2 any shims must sit flush, (completely level, not overlapped).  If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I would strongly suggest getting in touch with my buddy Gary jr. (whistle nut) in the Makaze Squad.  The guy is a genius when it comes to all things white armor and I'm sure he will be happy to help you out.  I can contact him if you like, just let me know!

 

The green rectangle shows

what the seam should look like                          Side view

toVUJxh.jpg                   T5il2nD.jpg

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Looking better, you can get the area a little flatter by using different grades of wet and dry sandpaper, here is a thread with sanding and polishing info: 

 

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Final attempt. I'm at my wits end if this doesn't pass muster. I've run it by Gary Jr. in my squad (Makaze). I know he's not staff but is a genius with armor. Sanded back down. Filled in the seam again in places, due to over sanding, using a toothpick and razor blade. Smoothed the sides and edges with the razor blade and sanded the edges again. I now have rubber arms and hands. :) I'm apparently ability challenged. 

 

TS5BGcp.jpg

 

Respectfully submitted,

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Hi Steve, and thanks for your application for ANH Stunt!

 

CRL and EIB Application Requirements

All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Expert Infantry rank. On behalf of Sha Sha, Mario and myself, congratulations! :duim: 

 

Other-Armor Fit/Assembly

In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions

 

First, great job on that shim on your left side, and thanks for the additional photos!  A couple of items in this section to go over to make your bucket and armor look even better!

 

The paint on your vocoder could be tightened up/refined a bit.  Ideally, the tops should have a clean, crisp look and the arcs at the tops rounded a little more.  5 minutes with a filbert style brush would take care of this.

                                                                                                                             Reference images

Qbkb3UU.jpg          KKZqeB8.jpg?2   9ZBQOLM.jpg?3

 

Next up is the ear positioning.  With few exceptions, the angle of the ears should be lined up to where the screws line up closely with the angle of the rear of the trap above them.  If you feel up to this, we suggest repositioning them.

 

wTJf1aM.jpg?1    7LJExWi.jpg?1               x5sMMob.jpg?1  NQUrBrX.jpg?1   H1vojcx.jpg?1

 

We are strongly suggesting that you trim off the rear of the shoulder bridges.  As seen in the reference images, there is no large tab at the rear, and the ends of the bridges should ride much higher above the O II plate below them.  2 minutes with a pair of ABS scissors (or a razor knife) and you are golden!

 

                                                                                                                                                                              Reference images

KOKcO1k.jpg?3 qb4YVKO.jpg?1  LiqSRhH.jpg?1

 

Although not a deal-breaker, we think you could trim down the lower sides on your sniper knee plate to bring them down closer to the ridge.

 

                                                                                                                                   Reference images

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Centurion Requirements

In this section we prepare you for Centurion. More photos may be requested in the future that allow us to make better decisions on possible adjustments. If there are any areas of concern they will be discussed here.


Because Centurion photos show much more detail than EIB, items to pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here. We try to point out all that we can from what is seen, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper.

 

You have some big guns there, Steve!  Unfortunately, this is causing the gaps between the chest plate and shoulder bells to be pretty wide.  At this point we recommend tightening up the elastic that hold the bells to the shoulder bridges and removing all of the return edges on the bottoms of the bells to reduce those spaces.

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mY5Z1Jg.jpg      2UUYTRh.jpg?1

 

They may be present, but in looking at the shoulder bridges we cannot see the thin white elastic band on the shoulder bridge that holds it down to the tab of the back plate.  This is a requirement for level 3, and a SUPER easy issue to take care of!

 

                                                                                                       Reference images

aSSByy6.jpg?1               bamc0Lh.jpg?1   ma9oRuq.jpg?1   qMx6cI0.jpg?1

 

Your ABS belt is riding pretty low, and as per the CRL, it needs to sit "...at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical... button panels" as seen in the reference images.  A few pieces of Velcro on the back would do the trick!

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We normally allow a little extra rim around the vertical ab-button plate, but yours covers the raised area below it almost completely (the trimming on the large plate is perfect, though).  Centurion level is all about the samll details, brother, but this is pretty prominent and needs to be trimmed down for a more screen accurate look.

                                                           Reference images

   LhqnhH7.jpg         MQGKsDJ.jpg?1  OHzIpx6.jpg?2

 

You did a fantastic job on the left side, but the right side also needs some ABS paste love.  A visible seam is permitted at Level 2, but not Level 3.

 

                                                                                                 Reference images

MFxde26.jpg?1         lA0qpzp.jpg?1    V29xA0A.jpg?2

 

As shown below, your back plate is riding over the kidney quite a bit and needs to be raised to the point where there is "...little to no overlap".  From what I can see(as seen in the second photo) the issue may be that your back plate is riding low.  Raising it up by cutting the tabs a bit, reducing the length of your white connecting straps and shoulder bridges in the rear (as mentioned above) may take care of this. 

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Another easy fix here:  The outside edges of the drop boxes must line up with the outside edge of the ABS belt.  A dab of E-6000 under the straps in the rear (once they are positioned correctly) should do it.

                                                                                                                                       Reference images

  Yrfnhv8.jpg?1    SJc0lRT.jpg?1           xFeWMHY.jpg?2  zkK4l4G.png?1

 

Although note specifically mentioned in the CRL, the gap on the bottom ridge of your left thigh needs to either be filled with ABS paste or have an ABS shim behind it.

                                                                                       Reference image

56oGJ8f.jpg             EcYqy2u.jpg?3

 

Last up, as you may be aware Hasbro blasters (even converted ones) are not permitted at Centurion level.  We also suggest that the Hengstler counter be raised and moved back, as it sits in the wrong position.

 

JE9eePP.jpg   KKs4phI.png   n0gZ6FA.png?1

 

And that's it, sir!  You did an awesome job on that seam (so we know you have mad build skills ;)), and we sincerely hope that you can take some time to address the above issues so that we can see that Centurion submission soon!  :jc_doublethumbup:

 

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  • justjoseph63 changed the title to TK-11764 Requesting ANH Stunt EIB Status (AM) (978)

YES. The Emperor has shown favor upon me. And for that I am forever loyal. Thank you all (staff) for the guidance and support.  And I was running out of animal sacrifice. JK.

Again, many thanks.

Edited by snaketcher
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