Jump to content

Bootlegger137's AM4.5 ANH Stunt Build Thread (Centurion)


Bootlegger137

Recommended Posts

Wow, that is a difference. Almost looks like the vacuum didn't pull the plastic fully. Can you post those in the facebook group?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, LTM said:

Wow, that is a difference. Almost looks like the vacuum didn't pull the plastic fully. Can you post those in the facebook group?

 

I’m not on Facebook...did away with it some 2 months ago (and haven’t missed it one bit).

 

If you’d like to post them, please feel free (I’d just ask you to share any pertinent feedback here).

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Bootlegger137 said:

So...an interesting "development" regarding the AM kits. As I mentioned previously, I have an AM2.0 kit that I built into a Sandy:

HNCl3kD.jpg?1

 

As it's a Sandy, there are a few leftover bits.

 

As I unboxed, unwrapped (Dave does an amazing job in wrapping and protecting all the pieces!...although I abhor the "packing peanuts"), and inventoried the new kit, some of the pulls seemed "off." So I dug out parts from the kit I purchased in 2016 to compare.

Aq1Wh47.jpg?1

 

In this pic, the top row is 2016, bottom row is 2020:

AAf8169.jpg?1

 

Shoulder straps...2020 on the left, 2016 on the right:

u8sWLk6.jpg?1

 

Belt...2020 top, 2016 bottom:

BdSRhQ9.jpg?1

 

Belt...top view...both 2020 with 2016 on the bottom:

1rcb0dI.jpg?1

 

This isn't meant to slag off Dave, as I don't believe he actually does the pulls (as I understand it...I could be wrong). This is more of an informational/"isn't that interesting" post.

 

Still, the quality of the ABS is great, there are a lot of extras, including plenty for cover strips. But, I'll be using my left over pieces as needed over the newer versions.

We received our kits from Dave as well, but as a novice who doesn't have any previous experience with building a TK, I got the impression of a really good pull in comparison to some of the other kits I have seen on the boards. I'll look a little more closely at these small parts later today just out of curiosity. I will say that the ABS is very sturdy and clean. It takes some effort to trim with the small Lexan scissors I purchased. It looks and feels like a kit that will hold up well for quite some time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Bootlegger137 said:

This isn't meant to slag off Dave, as I don't believe he actually does the pulls (as I understand it...I could be wrong). This is more of an informational/"isn't that interesting" post.

 

Still, the quality of the ABS is great, there are a lot of extras, including plenty for cover strips. But, I'll be using my left over pieces as needed over the newer versions.

Could very well be a different supplier of ABS, I've noticed locally differences in pulls depending on where the ABS has come from, also heat settings may have changed.

 

Definitely a lower crisp appearance, perhaps reach out and give your findings, he may not be aware ;) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can also come down to the thickness of the ABS, it is amazing how even a 10th of a mill can make a difference to a pull.

Other factors include pre stretching, evacuation capacity, heat level, buck warming etc.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Sly11 said:

Can also come down to the thickness of the ABS, it is amazing how even a 10th of a mill can make a difference to a pull.

Other factors include pre stretching, evacuation capacity, heat level, buck warming etc.

 

All of this noted, and to the untrained eye, it likely won’t make a hill of beans. Am I correct to assume these minor differences won’t affect the ability to reach Centurion level with the kit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

3 hours ago, Firedog said:

All of this noted, and to the untrained eye, it likely won’t make a hill of beans. Am I correct to assume these minor differences won’t affect the ability to reach Centurion level with the kit?

Nope, no difference or affect on any level of approval. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok...I know it's been a bit, but just because I haven't posted doesn't mean I'm not working on the build. ;)

 

In fact, I prefer to have significant progress on something before posting...so, here we go with the shins!

 

First off, cover strips...now's as good a time as any to cut them. Measure once, cut twice...or something of that sort.

YocrHpr.jpg?1

 

Once they're cut, I mark the backs (hopefully :blink:):

GT4yr6Z.jpg?1

 

And bundle them together:

uNKyKyi.jpg?1

 

On to the meat and potatos (potatoes? Dan Quayle, is that you?)...matching up the lefts and rights:

YxcNPtO.jpg?1

 

Marking them (I mark all the parts on the inside with a Sharpie):

nbU1qMv.jpg?1

 

Then I determine the width of the fronts based on the 20mm (10mm each) cover strips. I'll cut the bulk off with my Lexan scissors first, and then Dremel sand right up to the tape:

zCRalvW.jpg?1

 

The areas at the ankle get no return edge at all, but the tops of the shins get a minimal one:

vSyQeNr.jpg?1

 

Again, cut with the Lexan scissors and sand with the Dremel:

Ri2Ysl9.jpg?1

 

All cutting and sanding is done...ready to glue. The front edge isn't pretty, but since it'll be covered by a cover strip (:huh:) I'm not worried about it:

e1QTonP.jpg?1

 

The AM kits come with a healthy amount of extra material, which is perfect for the "interior" cover strips:

RtRpB9p.jpg?1

 

Before gluing the other side to the interior cover strip, a quick tape job and "test fit" of the actual cover strips to check width:

sapcagp.jpg?1

 

I'm a fan of bar magnets for long runs, but I don't want my shiny whiteness (:mellow:) to be marred...so wrapping them in tape to protect the finish on the ABS is in order:

iYk4wof.jpg?1

e4t4U37.jpg?1

 

And glued:

ScAUXoo.jpg?1

 

Once the glue has dried for both halves on the interior cover strips, it's time to mark the final length of the proper cover strips. I rounded the corners by eye with a file :

0ESBoyc.jpg

 

And glue. I'm not worried about glue squeezing out the sides...I've got a plan for that (see below):

GkOrKwB.jpg?1

 

I very carefully cut along the cover strip with an Xacto knife, and then rub the excess glue with a tongue depressor (saves the thumbs/fingers from friction burns) to get the glue to ball up:

XcWLs2q.jpg?1

cSFeJ8M.jpg?1

SqIWXvR.jpg?1

 

And voila...the fronts are more or less done! Still debating on how I'm going to do the backs...magnets or velcro.

 

Also, see next post for sniper knee question(s).

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sniper knee question(s):

 

Does this placement look "ok" for Centurion level approval?

Xe2J1tf.jpg?1

 

If you look closely, you'll see a faint pencil mark where I intend to trim down the thickness up to the corner. I assume that will help with the appearance as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI I just opened my BBB over the weekend and after causing my own delay in finishing my bucket, will be following this thread religiously.  First TK build for me.  Can already tell it will take more detail than building my Clone.

 

 

Scott

 

Edited by HighGround
Typo
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 hours ago, Bootlegger137 said:

Sniper knee question(s):

 

Does this placement look "ok" for Centurion level approval?

 

 

If you look closely, you'll see a faint pencil mark where I intend to trim down the thickness up to the corner. I assume that will help with the appearance as well.

It appears to be following the angle correctly. For the sniper, I know I had an issue with it digging into my knee when trooping, so I had to modify. Make sure you use E6000 or some other removable glue in case you need to adjust. 

Here is my sniper, you will notice that I shaved off more to move it away from my knee cap, and the angle is tilted out (away from knee). I also use a pad in the front of the shin to really push it out for walking. 

 

9bNHHGw.jpg

Edited by LTM
added pic
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, LTM said:

It appears to be following the angle correctly. For the sniper, I know I had an issue with it digging into my knee when trooping, so I had to modify. Make sure you use E6000 or some other removable glue in case you need to adjust. 

Here is my sniper, you will notice that I shaved off more to move it away from my knee cap, and the angle is tilted out (away from knee). I also use a pad in the front of the shin to really push it out for walking. 

 

9bNHHGw.jpg

Thanks. I was a little concerned about the knee not meeting that bottom corner of the "return edge" area on the shin proper...but I hoped, from looking at screen caps, that so many of these were constructing in some really wonky ways that it wouldn't be a critical fail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, Bootlegger137 said:

Thanks. I was a little concerned about the knee not meeting that bottom corner of the "return edge" area on the shin proper...but I hoped, from looking at screen caps, that so many of these were constructing in some really wonky ways that it wouldn't be a critical fail.

There were some really beauties :laugh1:

 

279.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...