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Suspend's "The Mandalorian" Blaster Build

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Hey everyone, a couple of years ago I was on these forums doing an E11 Blaster and an ANH Stormtrooper build.  Now I'm back doing The Mandalorian's Blaster.  I decided to post here first because of the incredible group of people here helping others.  I haven't found anything like the help I received here on any other forums.  You guys and gals are great and really make people feel like they belong.

 

Ok, so I can't get over how much things have changed in the past two years.  We used to order a resin kit and then spend countless hours modifying it to make it screen accurate.  Now, you can design the parts yourself and 3D print them at home in resin at the cost of only a few hundred dollars for a resin printer.  Enter the blaster from The Mandalorian.  I printed a couple of different 3D versions that I found online (both paid and free) before deciding that they weren't screen accurate enough for me so I designed my own.  Using any photos I could come across I recreated the blaster in about 2 months using Fusion 360.  It's gone thru countless revisions but I think it's getting pretty close now.  If anyone is interested in the files, I have a shop setup on ETSY under the name OuterRimWorkshop.  This is a rendering from Fusion 360:

 

Blaster Render

 

I designed the parts to make it easy to paint and assemble the individual components.  I also wanted a working trigger, so I built that in as well.  I won't get into the intricacies of 3D printing.  Like anything, there's a lot of trial and error.  The technology isn't perfect and resin printing, while it looks good, is still very prone to warping.  I generally print using inexpensive resin but for this model I purchased some more expensive resin called Blu by Siraya Tech which is supposed to be stronger and more accurate in terms of dimensional accuracy.  The only odd thing is that the resin comes as a sort of transparent blue/green color which makes it a little difficult to see fine details until it's painted.  The printer I have is an Elegoo Mars which is a very inexpensive resin printer.  The downside being that the build plate can only print 4.7 inches by 2.6 inches by 6 inches.  I think it took me about a week to print all the individual parts.  Here's a photo of all the parts...

 

 

Overview

 

The grips were printed in wood PLA plastic on an FDM (non-resin) printer.  I've heard you can stain 3D printed wood just like normal wood.  I guess I'll find out.

The Mars printer is capable of printing pixels at about 47 microns in X/Y which allows for some fairly nice detail.  Here are close-ups of the hammer and a switch that's on the side of the blaster:

 

Hammer Close-Up

 

Switch Close-Up

 

I can't wait to get started on assembly and painting.  I'll post updates when I am able but life seems to find a way of delaying any projects I want to work on.  :-)

 

Mark

 

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Amazing, following your thread now and looking forward to se  the progress photos.

 

Good luck !!    :jc_doublethumbup:

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I love the finish of the resin printer...The only problem is the size of the pieces that can be printed (In a resin printer for home, of course:laugh1:), and maybe its cleaning...Otherwise, the finish is spectacular...Very good job...

I'm looking forward to seeing that blaster painted ...

 

Regards

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WOW!

this is going to be awesome.

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Thanks, guys!!

 

I'm going to start by gluing the frame parts together.  Due to the size of my resin printer I had to print the frame in 4 pieces.  So there's a left side A & B and a right side A & B.  The seam on the right side will be hidden by a "plate" that the blaster has.  The blaster was based on a very old Bergmann pistol from the late 1800's.  In the actual "real world" weapon, this plate swings away and you would insert the ammo clip there.  In this blaster it perfectly hides the seam on the right side.  The left side is a different story, the seam goes right down the side of the blaster, so that will have to be hidden.  I use regular CA glue to glue the parts together.  Here are the left halves...

 

20200523_000720556_iOS

 

And then the left and right parts glued together.  It's hard to see the seam due to the semi-transparent resin, but that will change pretty quick..

 

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Some of the glue came out of the crack on the top piece but I was able to sand it away leaving just a small seam visible between the parts.  I use Rust-oleum Filler Primer on most of my 3D printed parts.  You spray it on, give it 1/2 hour or an hour to dry, then sand with 400 grit and repeat.  The tiny sanded particles fall into any cracks and begin to fill them.  After 3 or 4 passes of spraying and sanding, it filled in the small gap between the parts.  Then I went up to 600 grit.

 

20200523_174037871_iOS

 

I think that's it for today.

 

Mark

 

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The slightly difficult thing about this blaster is that the trigger is brass.  This really complicates things with painting because it's difficult to paint the trigger brass once the blaster has been assembled.  Here's the trigger.  It has an opening in the front to mount a spring for the working trigger.

 

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It's probably easiest to paint the trigger before assembling the frame.  And if I'm going to paint the trigger brass now, I might as well do the few other pieces that are brass as well.  I started off by spraying a primer onto the parts.  I also test fitted the trigger spring and once I attached it, I couldn't get it off anymore.  :-)  So I might as well just cover it with some masking tape and move on.

 

20200523_224413481_iOS

 

I'm partial to Tamiya lacquer paints because they apply thinly, don't obscure detail and dry quickly.  Although they are a little expensive.  For these parts I used Tamiya Surface Primer and once dry, followed up with a Tamiya Gloss Black.  The parts that are brass are the trigger, cleaning rod, cleaning rod holder, safety switch and this little block on the ejector port.  Actually, the little block on the ejector port flip-flops between silver and brass on the show.  The safety switch changes orientation too, but at least stays the same color.  :-)

 

 

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The other paint I'm partial to is the Alcad line of metallic paints.  Their chrome is amazing but like most of their paints, needs to be applied with an air brush.  For the brass color I used Alclad Pale Gold.  I think they used to have an Antique Brass paint but I haven't been able to find it anywhere locally or online so I'm thinking it might be discontinued.  Anyway, the pale gold looks good and again these lacquer paints dry almost instantly.

 

20200524_165007823_iOS

 

Much of the trigger will be hidden inside the frame.

One thing I started doing with smaller parts was to place a "ring" of masking tape around my finger, sticky side out.  Then I can attach small parts to my finger for painting and slide the tape off and stick it to a table to dry.

 

 

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And here are the parts.  I think I'll still apply a clear coat to these once they are completely dry.

 

20200524_165233340_iOS

 

And yes, the cleaning rod looks bent.  It's pretty flexible but once attached to the blaster it will be held straight.

 

Mark

 

Edited by Suspend
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How that brass shines!:laugh1:...

I'm starting to think about buying a resin printer...;)

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So I did a bit of an experiment today.  I needed to paint the hammer gun metal so that it could mount inside the frame when the frame is glued together.  Again, it's easier to paint it before assembly.  I decided to also paint the muzzle to see how the metallic paint turns out.  The muzzle prints in two parts, front and rear.  I did them in two parts because the front part is black (gun metal) and the rear part is more of a chrome.  By printing them in two parts I don't have to mask them off for painting.  Here are the muzzle parts...

 

Muzzle1

 

I got the parts primed and painted with Alclad Gunmetal lacquer paint.

 

20200525_045153125_iOS

 

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Then I painted the muzzle rear a gloss black and airbrushed light dustings of Alclad Chrome over top of the gloss black.

 

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I'm pretty happy with the result.  The metallic chrome was actually more reflectivebefore I hit it with a clear coat.  The clear coat dulled the reflections a bit but it still has a metallic look to it.

 

Mark

 

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