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DarthBiscuit

DarthBiscuit's R1TK Build (Jimmiroquai kit)

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DarthBiscuit, When I did my T-nuts, I only needed a 1” square hole on the back side of each box and I used PC-7 to hold the T-nuts in place on the inside. If I was doing it all again today, I would go the route I did for Kal Akaan’s vacuum formed kit. Just cut the entire back off each box, then make a Sentra inset for each box. Drill out the mounting points for each T-nut (2 per box) then glue the inset inside the box. This gives you a nice secure look and fit and you can always remove the boxes later if you need to repaint or whatever. Its not a lot of work and in my opinion well worth the extra effort. If you are interested in this method, check out Kal’s WIP to see how I did it and hit me up if you have any questions.

 

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The only other option I would suggest it to use 3M industrial outdoor double sided tape like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Permanent-Double-Sided-Outdoor-Mounting-Tape-411DC-SF/100575385

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10 hours ago, 11b30b4 said:

DarthBiscuit, When I did my T-nuts, I only needed a 1” square hole on the back side of each box and I used PC-7 to hold the T-nuts in place on the inside. If I was doing it all again today, I would go the route I did for Kal Akaan’s vacuum formed kit. Just cut the entire back off each box, then make a Sentra inset for each box. Drill out the mounting points for each T-nut (2 per box) then glue the inset inside the box. This gives you a nice secure look and fit and you can always remove the boxes later if you need to repaint or whatever. Its not a lot of work and in my opinion well worth the extra effort. If you are interested in this method, check out Kal’s WIP to see how I did it and hit me up if you have any questions.

Jeff, I saw you posted that method and it looks amazing and clean! I just don't have the resources to pull something like that now haha! Thanks so much for the suggestion! Your builds and walkthroughs have been crazy helpful!

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I got a lot done over the past few days! I figured I'd combine it into one post, since a lot was redoing stuff...

 

I finished the trauma plate! Snapped it on the barrel elastic straps and stored it in my footlocker.

jeSKni6.jpg

 

I probably should've started the TD earlier in my process, since there's SO MUCH to it. I spread putty and then wet sanded it to 220. My buddy printed the painting pyramids for me!

aAX8YaE.jpg

 

I wet sanded the ammo boxes since they had a lot of runs, some stuck cardboard (from resting them directly on boxes for painting), and a spot that wouldn't take paint. I sprayed them gloss white again and they're good! 2 more days and I'll E6000 (I think) them to the belt.

Q5p6Xfm.jpg

 

Something I noticed (that I don't think anyone mentioned) is that the drop box elastic comes out from between the outermost ammo box and the belt. These pics show that the elastic is on top of the belt. So I'll probably E6000 the elastic to the box, and then E6000 it to the belt.

HL1hGBQ.jpg

 

The thighs have been a huge pain! I sanded the gray chunks of spray paint off and sprayed again. At one point the can started doing it again, but I stopped immediately so only 1 thighs got messed up. I wet sanded to 220 later and sprayed it again. I think they're finally done now! Tomorrow I'll stick velcro on the back and trim out some 1" webbing to hang (with a clip, wrapped in elastic, per the new CRL). Hopefully they fit alright, or I can add foam strips in some places, because I DON'T WANT TO cut off the cover strips!

RCHFPRT.jpg

 

Today I somewhat taped off the white parts of the TD. I wasn't too worried with perfect taping, just with simplifying my future sanding. I then sprayed gloss gray and it went very well! In 2 days I'll tape the gray parts and then spray gloss white...

12CcGa4.jpg

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Looking good, we did discuss adding to the CRLs that the webbing for the drop boxes is mounted between the top box and the belt. I assume he discussion of the width of the webbing overtook that discussion and was what got added to the CRL. Regardless, you are correct, the webbing is mounted on top of the belt between the square box and the belt.  Keep up the great work.

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I test fitted the lower parts of my armor today! This was a first with the cod/butt and they felt great! I think the thighs might still be too tall :blush: I have the shins as low as they'll go on my boots. For the most part, walking seems good, but bending my knees to 90* bumps the greaves into the thighs. Bending my hips also pushes the thighs up into the cod. The width of the thighs might work out, but if I decide to cut down the height, then I'll probably cut off the cover strips and fix the width. Also, the spot I adhered the thigh snaps are too far back, so I'll move, or add new, snaps about where the tape is.

vZpiOtL.jpg

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Wow Dan, it's really coming together now. Nice progress. :jc_doublethumbup:

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I peeled off the tape and taped off the gray parts. Then I wet sanded the overspray and it's ready for gloss white!

5w34Jpp.jpg

 

Then, I gave in and cut up my thighs... There wasn't any point to waiting I guess. I pulled off the velcro, but it wasn't easy and I probably can't reuse it. I cut off the coverstrips and 1" from the other side. I had to trim the bottom a little and adjust the lower trim. Then I trimmed down the crotch so they might fit better with the cod. After I washed them I tried them on and they fit so much better! I might need to trim a bit more to fix the look of the underlapping side.

IGAhW4m.jpg

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Sometimes you just can't put things off anymore, nice work

 

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I finally built up the courage to stuck E6000 on the ammo boxes and adhere them to the belt. I spaced them out while on the barrel, clamped the bottom, then removed the belt and clamped the top. I only have enough clamps to set 4 boxes today, so tomorrow I'll stick on the outer boxes with the drop elastic underneath.

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As they were curing, E6000 started seaping out the edges :shok: This happened before with the bicep halves and I made the mistake of wiping it up, peeling paint with it. Any suggestions for E6000 cleanup? I figured I'll wait until it cures and then try to cut it off, but I'd like to avoid damaging the paint.

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I took the Dremel sanding drum to the thighs to flatten out the bottom trim. I couldn't get it as flat as I'd want, since I sanded through the fiberglass into the resin, but I think it'll look fine once painted. I also had to putty since sanding the fiberglass opened up pinholes. I'll sand it tomorrow and then try spraying gloss white.

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I sprayed gloss white on the TD, which went alright. There are some runs, but it looks fine, for the most part. I'll sand a little in a few days and touchup some spots.

BQV6WwE.jpg

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E6000 does like to ooze, it can be easily removed by rubbing your thumb or a finger against the glue (once dried). Normally large areas of excess glue can just be peeled away once dry. For any hard to get to areas I use strips of ABS plastic and push the glue away.

 

Depending on how much pressure was needed to hold the boxes to the belt will depend on how long to leave the clamps on, normally I will leave for 48 hours. You could also let dry for 24 hours, remove clamps, then apply painters tape around to hold them for the last 24 hours.

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I pulled the clamps off the ammo boxes and taped them on, thanks @gmrhodes13! I put E6000 on the large boxes, laid the elastic down, spread some more, and clamped them on the belt. I cut some velcro and hung the drop boxes just under 1" (per the new CRL, but I can shift them if needed). I'm also very happy with how I cut the back belt since it comes up just short of the outer box, so it's hidden behind it!

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I sprayed satin inside and gloss outside of the thighs. My modified lower trim looks pretty good (they're both in this pic)!! I wish it were better, but it's the best I can get without filling the interior with something...

8q878yP.jpg

 

I also sprayed gloss white on the coverstrips so the cut sides are painted. I'll probably flip them over and spray satin inside, so they're completely white.

b4iTZBr.jpg

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I used E6000 to stick the coverstrips on the thighs yesterday. Clamps and magnets ftw!

O4U3uwr.jpg

 

I peeled tape off the gray portions of the TD. The painting worked well, for the most part. Spots in the end caps peeled up a little, specifically in the left pictures below. I wrapped the thing in tape and sprayed in the end caps again. I know I should have sanded first, but the light at the end of the tunnel is too bright :laugh1: It looks pretty good now.

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I test fitted the thighs with its adjacent pieces. They're going to fit so much better since I trimmed them! I put squares of tape where I'll E6000 snaps inside. I'm going to try just a single strap on the outside first. If that doesn't hold properly (straight and centered), then I'll look into adding additional straps. I know gmrhodes13 pointed out a 2nd strap more forward on the side coming out at an angle (like a "V"). Are there other approvable strapping options? @TheRascalKing, Justin I think your pics showed a strap in the front (aligned with the coverstrip), is that in an acceptable spot?

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Nice work, TD looks good.

 

Using a two strap method will definitely help the thighs to stop rotating.

 

This is a FOTK but a similar design would work

large.TFA_FOTK_L_top_thigh_connectors_2.

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Approvable is as approvable does, daddio... *shrug*

 

I think the side strap is required for Centurion but the front one is optional at all levels, based on my reading of the CRL? But the ROTK is or the same generation as FOTK, so the layout posted above seemed a reasonable jumping off point.

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Can clearly see a side strap in these images

large.rogue-one-stormtrooper-reference-clarge.rogue-one-stormtrooper-reference-c

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I used E6000 to stick the snaps on thighs, along the side seam (per the CRL). When I try them on I'll decide if I need a "V" strap or a front strap.

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I also stuck snaps on the barrel and then prepped the straps and 1" clips.

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I gave in and E6000'd the TD to the belt. I wrapped tape around to hold it in place. Hopefully this works out, or I'll have to look into rivets...

YVGtnTS.jpg

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I used E6000 on both ends of the ammo belt to adhere it to the right thigh. I fitted the thighs first and the snaps seem to be in the correct place and they didn't seem to rotate much when I walked around!

VTrrsDq.jpg

 

I used E6000 on the outer side for the sniper knee plate. Since the greaves are still 2 separate pieces, I didn't want to E6000 the whole thing on. Instead I used 2 pieces of velcro to hold the center and inner edge in place. Hopefully this works out!

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And that's everything! I had some more issues with my large outer ammo boxes peeling off the belt, so I used some CA glue and clamps to try again to hold them down. If that works, then I'm done! I'll probably give an extra day for curing and try on my FULL ARMOR on Sunday! If it's good, I'll get pics, and post for pre-approval!!!

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Awesome news, so glad to hear you are almost ready for approval, it's been a long road and you stuck it out.

 

Looking forward to seeing your pre approval images :salute:

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I submitted for Pre-Approval!!

 

rCVapIl.gif

 

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Will this work for an action shot?

BCPFSos.jpg

 

I already found a few fixes:

- Adjust the back plate since it's slightly crooked in the pics

- Adjust velcro to close greaves better

- Raise bells so they're closer at the top

- More glue to large ammo boxes, as their opposite sides are peeling up now

- More snaps on bell/bicep elastic straps since one bicep popped off

- Redo thigh straps since they loosen too easily

- Elastic wraps to cover the thigh clips

- Side plate foam so black doesn't transfer to the barrel

 

So happy!!!

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Dan just a quick question as I haven't been through every phase of your build in detail, but if you are running off the old version of the CRL, don't forget to inform your GML that we do have a grace period for those who started there build before we updated the CRL to it's current from.

If you indeed went for it and built to the new CRL then you don't obviously need to mention it to them.

If you need a copy of the old CRL to supply your GLM here is the link to the thread  you can direct them to complete with PDF of the old CRL version.

 

Good luck sir, but looking at your build, you wont need it :)

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Sly11 said:

Dan just a quick question as I haven't been through every phase of your build in detail, but if you are running off the old version of the CRL, don't forget to inform your GML that we do have a grace period for those who started there build before we updated the CRL to it's current from.

If you indeed went for it and built to the new CRL then you don't obviously need to mention it to them.

If you need a copy of the old CRL to supply your GLM here is the link to the thread  you can direct them to complete with PDF of the old CRL version.

 

Good luck sir, but looking at your build, you wont need it :)

 

 

Thanks Andrew! I mostly went off the old CRL so I'll def mention/link it, but I added some from the new CRL (to make Lvl 2 and 3 easier ;))!

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38 minutes ago, DarthBiscuit said:

I submitted for Pre-Approval!!

 

rCVapIl.gif

 

Will this work for an action shot?

BCPFSos.jpg

 

Love the suiting up video :D 

 

Yes that should work as an action shot, please don't break into a YMCA dance though ;) 

 

Great to see you at pre approval, feedback left, good luck with approval, hope to see you will a TKID very soon.

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