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chiefbonan's TK ANH Stunt Build (Centurion)


chiefbonan

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Would like an opinion!
We noticed that most people make their hand plates by making molds. Would it be possible to use one of the hard ABS hand plates as a mold? 

Down below is on of my hand plates, sorry about the strap, but you can see how it does concave and has the shape inside. I was just wondering if it would be possible, and/or viable, as in the laytex wouldn't work with the ABS or something like that. Thanks!

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5 hours ago, chiefbonan said:

Would like an opinion!
We noticed that most people make their hand plates by making molds. Would it be possible to use one of the hard ABS hand plates as a mold? 

Although it's possible, making an item using someone else's design (in this case the hand guards) is considered "re-casting", which is generally frowned upon.  However, since it is for personal use what I would suggest is to get in touch with the person who made the armor and ask permission.

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18 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Although it's possible, making an item using someone else's design (in this case the hand guards) is considered "re-casting", which is generally frowned upon.  However, since it is for personal use what I would suggest is to get in touch with the person who made the armor and ask permission.

Hey Joseph, just got back from the armour maker, he said it was fine to use the handplates as moulds. Shouldn't be an issue!

 

 

18 minutes ago, madnesstcc990 said:

How are things coming along, Trooper ???


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Glad you asked! might as well do a round up on things that need doing!

 

Neckseal-

The neckseal I made had ribs made from grey doortrim painted black, the paint is cracking horribly, just need to redo them with black doortrim.


Helmet- 
Need to attach s-trim, add paint to the vocoder, put in the strapping and the frown inside mesh.
 

Shoulder bells-
Need to add elastic inner strap.

Ab Plate-
Need to add the button plates as well as attachments for the belt to go on.
 

Thermal detonator-
Needs to be repainted (wrong colour), and assembled.

 

Belt-
Still haven't recived my soft belt back yet, so belt needs to be started.

 

Thighs-
Need to add inside padding.

Calves-
Need to add inside padding as well as elastic straps that go under my feet.

Handplates-

Need to create the laytex handplates for cert 3. (using the hard pandplates as moulds as mentioned above)

 

Boots-
Might need to get new ones. I painted them white but the paint is cracking, also the left boots keeps making a squeaking sound every thime I walk.

 

Buttplate-

Need to add a new silver snap at the groin next to the other one.

 

Everything else is finished and ready to go. Once I have it all mostly fitted though I can do some fine adjustments to make it fit together perferctly!


 

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I'm curious about the elastic straps you mention you are planning to add under your feet.  Are you having problems with the calves riding up?  Gravity should hold them down and a strap outside your boot wouldn't look right.   I also think one inside your boot would become uncomfortable. I have noticed some folks place a piece of velcro on the front of the boot near the top above the ankle and inside of the shin to keep them from coming up. 

 

I usually find myself placing my shins on after I have my thighs and boots on since it goes around the boot so getting that strap under foot may be difficult. 

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13 minutes ago, Hesikaya said:

I'm curious about the elastic straps you mention you are planning to add under your feet.  Are you having problems with the calves riding up?  Gravity should hold them down and a strap outside your boot wouldn't look right.   I also think one inside your boot would become uncomfortable. I have noticed some folks place a piece of velcro on the front of the boot near the top above the ankle and inside of the shin to keep them from coming up. 

 

I usually find myself placing my shins on after I have my thighs and boots on since it goes around the boot so getting that strap under foot may be difficult. 

It's just the plan we have so far, there are many options. Using a snap could also work. I am having the issue that the shin does rotate on my legs, but I am a skinny guy. We haven't put the padding inside the shins quite yet, as we are waiting for our belts. Armour making has slowed down a bit as we are trying to get stuff organised due to the virus. Pretty keen to get stuck back into it, as it's not long now until we finish my armour and go onto our 2nd armour.

Mainly we got the idea here from RS Propmasters, at 3:30 mark:

 

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I'm curious about the elastic straps you mention you are planning to add under your feet.  Are you having problems with the calves riding up?  Gravity should hold them down and a strap outside your boot wouldn't look right.   I also think one inside your boot would become uncomfortable. I have noticed some folks place a piece of velcro on the front of the boot near the top above the ankle and inside of the shin to keep them from coming up. 

 

I usually find myself placing my shins on after I have my thighs and boots on since it goes around the boot so getting that strap under foot may be difficult. 

Another option is a popper/snap on the back (inside the calves, of course).

 

Personally, I attached velcro to the front tab of my boot, then a popper on the rear tab. To allow a little wiggle room, I used some spare elastic to Attach the popper to - this allow flex when moving around.

 

Here’s what I did to start;

 

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Velcro front, poppers rear

 

 

Then, I realised that if I moved my angles too much, like going up stairs, the rear popper could in-pop. So, I added a tab of elastic to give it some flex;

 

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They now stay perfectly aligned and have not un-popped since :-)

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Finally! After about a month of waiting I recived my belt! It came in great condition, looks up to par with some of the more expensive ones! The only problem was the person we asked to stich them took way too long. You might remember we and my dad made the belts cut out of canvas (my one and my dads, which his is longer), for the person to then put stiching on the outside of them to give it that more professional look. After a week or so of waiting she said she restarted them, a week after that she asked for both them, 2 weeks after that we recived one belt back? She stiched both of them together! Oh well, now I can finish building the armour!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello all, been very busy and haven't been able to work on the armour. I recently ordered some new boots from Imperial Boots, and I am considering also ordering some laytex handplates. Looking into getting a Doopydoos blaster eventually, but it seems they're out of stock right now.

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Hello all, been very busy and haven't been able to work on the armour. I recently ordered some new boots from Imperial Boots, and I am considering also ordering some laytex handplates. Looking into getting a Doopydoos blaster eventually, but it seems they're out of stock right now.

The Doopydoos kit is a really good and you can achieve excellent things with it. Although Doopydoos are renowned for terrible customer communications, the blaster is great when it arrives.

The standard kit is great and can be built and painted to be easily good enough for 501st clearance. If you want to take it to the next level, check out “T-Jay’s Completion Set” here on FISD. He has created a bundle of excellent upgrade parts that can be added to the Doopys kit, if you fancy it. Here’s an example of what I did with mine;





Btw, I agree with Joseph regarding the return edge on the chest plate - looks good as is. :-)

Dan
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Shipping and stock is a common issues around the world in the current situation.
I think the return edge in you chest plate image looks fine. Unless it’s causing you issues I would leave it for the time being until you can get fully kitted up and see how everything moves together.


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  • 2 weeks later...
5 hours ago, chiefbonan said:

Well that didn't go to plan! Tube of E-6000 exploded in my hands. Spent 2 hours picking dry glue off of my hands!

Wow haven't see this happen before, but I do know what it's like to try pick off E6000 residue left on your fingers ;) 

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Hello all. Sorry for not having heaps of updates, I'm sure everyone else is getting tired of all this quarantine and the such. Just a few questions:

On my ab piece the leg corners were cut like this in straight lines, should they be rounded?

Also it isn't major but an tips on removing that dint? Thank you

CUzwHQF.jpg

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Return edges can look great but add rigidity to the plastic which can lead to stress fractures and cracks.  Best to clean up that line.  Check this thread on return edges.

 

 

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Definitely round out those pointed areas, Thomas.  Areas like that with a sharp angle are prime points to eventually cause a split/crack.  From a comfort standpoint you can also remove most of the return edge around the cod tab.  Having an excess there can lead to chafing.. Ouch.

 

 

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Thank you for your suggestions! Will be doing that later tonight. In other news, my IMP Boots arrived! I'll be using these ones for trooper, and I'll be using my old, more scrappy ones for rougher terrian.

 

EDIT- It's actually kind of a blessing in disguise, as it will be hand having two pairs of boots! 

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Edited by chiefbonan
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