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Helotech's 3D-Props DLT-19 Build


Helotech
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Minor but big update.

 

Even though this work wasn't hard, it was scary for me to start drilling into my blaster for the electronics. There's almost no going back now...

Does anyone know if we can place videos on this site like pics? I have a couple vids of the lighting effects.

 

1" Hole at rear of "power pack". This is where the scope display will sit. The Balstfx has the tiny scope display, then it uses a red filter (for an ominous glow...) and concave lens to magnify the image. I will have to mount the display about 1/2" inside the box for proper magnification. I originally though of mounting the concave lens so it protrudes outside the box, but I may recess it inside to protect it. I'll then build up a slight rim around the hole. The main rectangular display / shot counter will sit below this. I will have to build a little angled box around the display as it will sit below the bottom edge of the box.

 

1BCwJhB.jpg

 

Hole on forward side of the box for the laser.

bMZPVv7.jpg

 

Hole I drilled on the inside of the receiver going to the box. Unfortunately, I'll probably have to remove all the wires from the components, feed them though the holes then re-solder everything. 

dxK70Z8.jpg

 

So, I drilled out the hole for the magnet. It turned out like crap...

I ended up cutting off the tab and gluing  a post to the bottom indie of receiver. A magnet will be attached to it. Pics to follow.

TSS1nxD.jpg

 

Holes drilled in barrel. It was a pain as I don't have a drill press and had to drill large 5/8" holes on a curved surface. It took me a while to clean up the jagged hole edges. This will barely be seen through the barrel shroud hole, but I wanted things neat and tidy.

3Wm0sdy.jpg

 

MNk2qAn.jpg

 

Rectangular hole for light strip. That is the battery pack at bottom right that I am using to power everything. I also purchased a recharging circuit board. The power pack is great, but if you order one of these double check the wiring. The red and black were reversed in the white connector (not shown here) so it didn't charge.

vx923k2.jpg

 

 

That's all for now.

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From another post I commented in. This is what it will look like. Main display wires will come from the right and lead into the receiver.

YsCy2Fz.jpg

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A lot of work adding electronics into blasters not made for them, looks like you are winning the fight, nice work

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It's going to look very cool when finished. You should post an operating video once complete and really show it off. :popcorn:

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14 hours ago, Helotech said:

(...)   Does anyone know if we can place videos on this site like pics?   (...)

 

Yes, it actually works the same way. You need an online host (like Youtube) to upload your videos to and then place the link in your thread.

That should work.

 

Oh, and great job done so far. :duim:

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Thanks all.

I do use Imgur for my pics, but when I tried uploading the vids with it they didn't work. I'll try again.

This blaster does have a small panel on the bottom of the receiver (where on the real gun one of the ejection ports would be) specifically made to hold the main display plus a couple of the buttons.

However, I just thought of a "real" blaster and it would seem silly to put the display facing downwards. 

 

I wanted everything to be seen by the operator when it is raised to the shoulder. Non cannon, but still plausible.

 

Ok. Files uploaded successfully to Imgur. I'll see if they play.

https://i.imgur.com/oUXECZ2.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/yAaDIyI.mp4

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Some people place solid / hollow acrylic tubing inside their E-11 barrels, and it increases the lighting effect by dispersing the light better.

 

Since I don't want to order 6' of tubing (min order), I am doing an experiment where I use scrap plastic packaging material.

 

I'm painting it with a clear semi gloss primer to make it hazy, then will roll it into a tube shape and slip it in the barrel. I'll see if it works.

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In case you should come across a suitable acrylic tube for this purpose it makes sense to slightly sand the outer surface to get that frozen effect.

 

This helps hiding the actual LEDs and improves the look.

 

But for the moment I keep fingers crossed for your scrap plastic packaging material. :)

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I never thought of sanding! Thanks!

I can source flexible vinyl tubing much cheaper than the rigid clear tubing. The plastic tube can be found at any hardware store and comes in different diameters.

I'll have to experiment to see what gives better light effects.

 

So0EAp9.png

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