Helotech's 3D-Props DLT-19 Build

[Helotech[TK]]

Hello everyone!

After a grueling wait I received my 3D-Props DLT-19!

 

I'll be starting with some photo's of everything you get, and will then go onto the build. 

Along with the basic build of the gun I will be adding the Blast-FX system that I purchase a few months ago. So, this should get interesting.

 

Before I begin I do have to put in one disclaimer, and a review on this build.  I am a military Flight Engineer Instructor and when we instruct new students, we have ways of providing new students what we call Constructive Criticism, or Points to Improve Upon. It is a way of pointing out errors to students in hopes that they improve on future flying lessons.

It is not meant to bash students, but it is an honest way to try and help them.

 

I will use the same technique to address some issues I had with 3D-Props in hopes that they (Eelco Sanders) can improve their customer service. 

 

I write this fully knowing this is a one man operation, and that we should expect some delays in a garage business.

 

At some points in the last 7 months I was truly frustrated with 3D-Props, and held off writing a nasty review, in case Eelco decided to cancel my order and keep my money:

POLICY:
I DO NOT ACCEPT RETURNS OR CANCELLATION

 

I will be going onto Etsy and his website to provide an honest review of my experience with 3D-Props so that other potential customers know what they are getting into.

I then cooled down and went back to my training. I decided to wait until I got my package and then write this review.

 

I placed my order for a DLT-19, paying IN FULL,  through his website on 11 June of 2019. The disclaimer on his page stated:

MADE ON ORDER - CHECK CURRENT WAITING / SHIPPING TIME
Shipping time is determined by the number of orders in queue.

8-9 weeks^{1  1} Applies to shipping within Netherlands. Information about shipping policies for other countries can be found here:

 

General shipping information

Thank you for buying our product, if the product was out of stock it means it will be made on order. This takes around 8-9 weeks due to the amount of pending orders.

https://www.3d-props.com/about-1/

After placing my order and waiting 3 months (Sept 2019) I emailed Eelco. It took a couple tries (with an automated email response) and he finally got back to me, stating he was busy but would get to my order. 

I emailed once again on 04 Nov, and he stated he was in the middle of a DLT print run and would mine done in a week.

By 03 Jan 2020 I had still not received my DLT and emailed Eelco explaining that I understood he was busy, but it had been 7 months and I had not received my order after .

He got back to me right away and my DLT shipped within 2 days. 

I received it on16 Jan 2020.

So, start to finish it took almost exactly 7 months to get my order.

I did read on FB he was having issues with production due to volume of orders and he was a one man operation.

My simple solution for this: Change the disclaimer on your website and state an order can take 6 months or longer to fill.

 

So my overall impressions don't get lost at the end of this post and a ton of photo's, here is score:

• Quality of 3D printing: 4.5 / 5  My first experience with 3D printed items. I'm not sure if some of the raised ridges could be improved upon. Minor flash and excess material on some parts. I have seen posts of what can be made of this kit and it is outstanding.
• Quality of material: 5/5  Looks sturdy and will hopefully stand up to lots of Trooping
• Ease of assembly: 0 / 5  There are NO instructions for something detailed and consisting of 84 parts. Thankfully, I have very good knowledge of GPMG's (but not MG-34's) and due to my model building / aircraft maintenance technical skills I can figure stuff out, but the exclusion of basic assembly instructions or diagrams is puzzling and dis-heartening. I understand there is this fantastic Forum and awesome Trooper help out there, but I personally think this is unacceptable
• Customer service: 1 / 5  I gave him a token 1 because he is a one man shop, doing the best he can, and others state he is a good person. It's just my personal dealings with him that bring down his score. I honestly hope he improves and continues to put out good products. I would even order from him again, IF (Big if!!!!) he could deliver in a timely manner.

Okay. enough preaching. Onto the pics!!! Sorry for some grainy shots. My crappy point and shoot...

MBB (medium brown box)

All the stuff. Charlie is waiting for a box fort...

Included 2 posters. would have preferred instructions...

Strike off pack sheets for shipment?

Nice customs explanation form

All the parts. 62 parts Plastic and metal. 22 parts Hardware

 

Parts broken down for reference by colour. For future help from Troopers (Joseph ….)

I posted on my TK build page about not knowing what half these parts were, and Joseph got back stating to post pics and he could help ID them for the build. I took a page from my modelbuilding expertise and will label everything as follow:

"O"  = Orange

"W" = White

"B" = Black

"H" = Hardware

Two main assemblies, Upper / lower receiver with butt, and barrel assembly. This is how it is when shipped:

Upper receiver feed cover (the long grey piece behind the orange rectangle) is removeable. Butt can be removed, as well as one or two other pieces. They all slip onto a grey PVC pipe that is used for main structural support:

Barrel assembly includes a length of aluminum tube, and 5 pieces that slip on:

Top of upper receiver:

Bipod and pistol grip parts. Bipod can be pivot opened or closed:

Grip has a "working" trigger mechanism with reset spring, Comes assembled:

Bipod printing ridge details. Not really that bad:

Feed cover ridges. Rearward portion of cover:

Forward portion of cover, near where the removal pin would be and where it pivots upward:

 

Puppy break:

Flash hider:

Gas plug(maybe....?) detail:

 

Upper receiver barrel attachment point:

Trigger details:

Ahhhhh man...….:

"O" Parts:

Some O part detail shots. Not sure what some are, or how smooth all these will have to be sanded:

Bipod leg ridges. Very minor:

"B" Parts:

Grip details:

Cool! Rear graduated sight out to 2000 Meters LOL

WTf is this?

 

is this

And this?

"W" Parts:

Are the steps supposed to be there? Reference pics of finished and painted parts would be nice...:

"H" Parts:

That's it for now.

Overall I'm happy with the product. 

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

super cool mate Enjoy !!!    following your thread now. 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Very nice, just getting rid of print lines are time consuming, watching with popcorn, good luck

[Helotech[TK]]

Mario and Glen! Always good to hear from you.

We’re having a snowstorm here this weekend, so will start on the sanding. 

Waiting to hear what some of the parts are so I can label and plan the build.

Once again, will install the Blast FX system.

Once this blaster is done, then I can rip apart my SDS E-11 and install the Blast FX in it. 

[Junos]

Weeew.... 8 months of wait time. Im amazed you were that patient.  The model looks good though, can't say I've seen this much detail before. Hopefully sanding out the print lines wont kill your motivation! By the end of this, I have no doubt that you'll have an amazing looking DLT, and some huge muscular arms / hands with all the sanding haha

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

I hope you will have a great time building this, the DLT is a beautiful blaster!

Here is a prayer for your sanding fingers!

I hope someday to get my own, but I will settle with the SDS E-11 for now

[Helotech[TK]]

 

Info from another DLT thread that I didn't want to hijack.

 

From Joseph:

I found that this product really helped.  Some serious sanding with 100 grit, then a few light coats, then more sanding, more coats until I got down to 320 grit.  Came out smooth as silk.

One thing that will come in VERY handy is silicone sanding sheets.  You can bend, twist and do what you like to it and it will not tear.  It's a bit pricier than regular sandpaper, but well worth it.  To find it just Google 3M Sandblaster Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets.  I used just one sheet to do an entire TK build and a blaster build and it's still good.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-oleum-Gray-Filler-Primer/33616414?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4384&adid=22222222227022202608&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=80421617929&wl4=pla-177653161249&wl5=9010526&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=33616414&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI97vfyvWM5wIVh5WzCh2q8wkmEAQYAyABEgJ7JfD_BwE

 

Sanding sheets:

https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/3m-pro-grade-precision-ultra-flexible-sanding-sheets/6000195545072

 

Thanks Joseph.

 

Appreciate the info. I have a similar paint product in the garage (I think). If not I will pick some up.

I was wondering what the best way to tackle the initial sanding would be.

Because there are allot of flat surfaces and 90 degree edges. I may wrap the sheets around regular sponge sanding blocks or wood. This should help to prevent me sanding more in one area than another because of uneven finger pressure, thereby creating a "wavy" effect.  

 

Did you use an electric palm sander on anything? Would it be overkill?

I think it would speed up the process, reduce sanding fatigue, and it has a flat surface to prevent pressure points.

 

I haven't touched the plastic yet so I don't know how hard it is to sand.

 

Gotta check my paint spraying mask to make sure the filters are good (safety first!). 

 

Also, if anyone one has experience with this build, and a step by step for assembly, that would be awesome! I'm not sure if I should contact Eelco to see if he has anything like this.

It's funny. There are a ton of How To guides for armor out there, but I haven't found anything for blasters...

 

Could this be the first....?

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

Spray putty on some parts and filler primer on others will be your friend once some base sanding is done.
Looking forward to seeing this all come together.


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[T-Jay[TK]]

On 1/19/2020 at 1:09 AM, Helotech said:

(...)   There are a ton of How To guides for armor out there, but I haven't found anything for blasters...   (...)

For blasters we have this - okay, it only covers the Blastech E-11 and is not specific for 3D-printed things, but the chapters #03, #27, #28 and #29 might still be useful for this build.

Edited January 27, 2020 by T-Jay

[Helotech[TK]]

I contacted Eelco at 3D-Props and he sent me assembly diagrams!  I just have to marry up the parts in my pics to the diagrams.

So, big thank you to him.

 

I have done some minor sanding but had to stop.

 

I'm in the RCAF and was just notified that I am being posted (moved) from Ontario to BC. I leave in a month, wife and household goods to follow this summer.

 

I'll manage to squeeze in 2 more troops before I go, but this build will have to be put on hold for about a month. I won't be bringing my armour with me as I will be busy there. I WILL bring the DLT to work on during my down time in the military barracks.

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

Take care!

[Helotech[TK]]

Thanks Jonas! How’s your build?

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

It's going slow, but surely.

[Helotech[TK]]

Okay, so I just realized it's almost exactly a year since I started this thread. Time for an update I guess....

I think I am about 80% done.

Since posting, the world went to crap and I moved across the country and started a new job in the RCAF. Lots happening.

 

I'll post a ton of pics here about the DLT. A few points:

• I'm trying to decide where to place the displays supplied in the BlastFx kit. The scope and rounds remaining displays. I don't like the round counter displayed on the bottom of gun as this doesn't seem logical. I may go my own way and install it on the back of the left side "aluminum box" with scope display so that it faces the shooter. Makes more sense to me.
• I have painted and assembled most items. 
• I was installing the BlastFx elextronics and a few wire solder connections to components snapped. I think the overall quality is pretty freakin fantastic, but the wires are very thin and while trying to manipulate components into the blaster the connections failed. I soldered the items, but then some weird electronic stuff started happening. I got in contact with TRamp (fantastic service!) and after lots of back and forth troubleshooting, I sent my DLT and E11 components back to him in the UK. He is working on the stuff now, so the build is on hold.
• After a ton of research on the DLT and looking at pics of actual MG34's, I decided to upgrade much of the hard ware to make the blaster look more realistic. The hardware provided by 3Dprops is very functional, but not "real world" accurate
• A side note about the 3D props hardware: He does provide a schematic, but it is very hard to discern where each bolt, screw washer or nut goes. Better diagrams or instructions are required.
• Having spent DAYS and WEEKS looking at MG34's and other blaster builds, I can say that this kit is fantastic! Very accurate dimensionally and in detail.
• Another knit-pick is the bipod build-up. The bipod is split halfway up, and an aluminum plate is used as a joining plate on the inside between the two parts. I have glued this various ways and it has failed at least 3 times on one leg. It is attached now but there is a hairline crack between the two parts. Sanding and filling is required, with the obvious sanding and repaint.

Build notes:

• I sanded like crazy, and used primer / filler rattle cans between sanding. 
• Primed with 2 to 3 layers of black rattle can.
• There are Several different colours for MG34's, depending on quality, restoration, year made, etc. I didn't want a flat black, so repainted most components with Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black. A very dark charcoal colour. Looks much better.
• I'm going easy on weathering. This is meant to replicate a blaster used on the Death Star Garrison, not in a swamp or desert.
• I mainly used the well known limited photos of the screen used DLT. Highlights and various scratches were done with Tamiya XF-16 Flat Aluminum and XF-56 Metallic Grey.
• I used graphite powder lightly rubbed along big flat surfaces to show wear and add visual interest. It was rubbed heavily on some corners, and also used on the two rings that join the receiver to the butt.
• Butt was sprayed with rattle can Rustoleum Satin Dark Walnut to replicate the bakelight material. I then sponged some lighter buff and black colour on it.
• The barrel T-strips will be replace by WannaWanga items. They are excellent quality and I won't need to sand like a madman...

 

Overall pieces

 

Wannawanga strips on right

 

Front assembly; Wire is from barrel LED flash emitter. I asked TRAmp to install a connector and split wire in two. This way I can break down the DLT for transport. Barrel cooling jacket and barrel will be glued the front after feeding wire through.

 

Replaced bipod attachment hardware with more accurate bolt and split pin. There is a bit of scratched paint on washer from using tools to bend pin. This will be touched up along with those little areas of orange plastic showing through

 

 

LED emitter

The front site is moveable (pivots up and down) as well

 

 

Weathering

 

 

Bipod legs

 

Darn bipod crack....

 

Feed cover. Replaced hardware with more screen accurate. I cur off the head of a large lag bolt and glued on opening latch.

 

 

Lots of sanding to get rid of 3D print lines

 

 

 

 

Receiver:

 

 

Hairspray method for chipping

 

 

Rear sight moveable

 

Extended peep sight. Numbers will be painted in.

 

Receiver bottom. Main support tube is PVC pipe. I cut holes in bottom for easy wiring access to trigger wires. Will be cleaned up.

 

 

Top view into receiver, towards the butt end. I cut the PVC pipe to have a big area for wiring and eventually a battery pack for everything. I kept a small piece of the PVC and re-glued it back in. This tab will eventually hold a magnet that will be used to secure the back of the feed cover.

 

 

 

Reciever was printed in 2 parts, front and back. This is the seem line that I filled but then cracked. Will need to fill and repaint...

 

 

Recover and cover pivoted up

 

Cover just sitting down on receiver. A little force is used to squeeze two parts together. This is where the magnet will hopefully work.

 

 

I also scribed the grip marks on the latch

 

 

 

Butt colour. This is actually a little lighter. Dark colour due to lighting.

 

 

Over exposed to show colour variations

 

Sanded print lines smooth, then scribed the gripping grooves. Also drilled a hole and inserted the head of a lag bolt. Hole to be cleaned up.

 

Note the 2 rings. These was simply done by masking the butt and receiver, then applying the graphite powder and buffing like crazy. Now looks like a separate metal piece.

 

 

Less exposed pic

 

 

 

Partially assembled. This is how far blaster will break down for transport.

 

 

Sanded disk smooth, and used hairspray technique to weather.

 

Supplied cocking handle with bolt. Can be unscrewed for storage and transport. It is way too short and thin. To attempt to make it bigger I started gluing plastic sheet on it.

 

I bought a toilet repair pipe at Home Depot that looked like right thickness. This will slip over the supplied piece and get glued together. I have to figure out a way to do knurling. 

 

 

Barrel shroud

 

 

Some hardware to replace supplied stuff. The small pack of screw posts will be used to replicate the domed screws on grips.

 

 

And from when I first got the blaster. I have no clue what the part, 2nd from left, is or where it fits. It is the oval with hole drilled.

Once again, the assembly instructions are lacking.

Edited April 25, 2021 by Helotech

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

wow a lot of work mate! 

[Helotech[TK]]

Thanks! Still lots to do.

Once it’s done I have a couple 3D printed E11’s to assemble. One will get the other Blast FX kit installed. I will then build a blaster “charging” and storage rack for display similar to one in security room on the DS. I will make it a multipurpose SE-14 / E11 / DLT charging station.

With the 3D printed SE-14 I just got the files for, I will have a nice little arsenal. Pew pew!!!

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

You go Dave!  Someday I'll also get a DLT, saving for a snowie right now though.

[Helotech[TK]]

Hey Jonas!!!

Ya, I can't wait to get his thing done and off my build desk.

This, plus 2 E11's. a ton of plastic models, a brand new 3D printer to learn about, has got my hobby mental level maxed out!

 

I was going to start on a scout, which is by far my favorite Trooper, but after watching Mando the wife turns to me and says "Why don't you make a Boba outfit?"

After I laughed I asked "seriously?" and she said YUP!

 

Sooooooo....... I have started the research, joined the Bounty Hunters guild, and have started ordering (small things for now) parts. This will be a long labor of love, but I'm going for and ESB Boba build!!!

 

 

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

Go for it! Boba is best mando!

[Helotech[TK]]

Does anyone now the length of a real MG34 cocking handle tube? Basically, how far it sticks out of gun from the receiver.

Diameter of the handle would be helpful as well.

My attempts at scratch building one using pipe above aren't working.

I was going to attempt a 3D printed one.

 

Other news I've started printing the SE-14 with the awesome files from Glen! I'll be starting a post on that blaster forum page. I have all the small parts done. Next is the main grip housing and barrel / body.

 

Yet more news: My Blast FX electronics were fixed and are hopefully shipped from UK. Once they get here I will pull the big blaster out of the closet and try to finish it off.

 

[Helotech[TK]]

So I am finally continuing this thread after my move.

 

I'm just figuring out the best electronics installation method.

I just did a trial fit of the barrel into the barrel shroud. It is a good snug fit, all the way from the flash suppressor at the front, the sight block in the middle, and the receiver attachment point.

It makes the entire front half of the blaster solid. However, I now have noticed the BlastFX LED light strip does not slide between the barrel and barrel shroud. Looks like I have to cut a long slot into the barrel in order to have the pew pew lighting effects.

Will upload pics soon.

 

[Sly11[Admin]]

[Helotech[TK]]

I hate my OCD and attention to detail...

I'm doing some of the finer fit and detail work, and having to think of ways to fit the BlastFX kit in the DLT.

 

Sooooo...

 

I repaired and repainted the bipod legs and receiver body where cracks had formed at mating points. One bipod leg had actually split in half at the joint. This time I used super strong crazy glue. If you look close you may see a faint join line.

I will now have to weather these areas again to match the rest of the blaster. Those oval openings on the legs overlap and fit over a conical bolt on the bottom of the barrel shroud (see below):

 

 

You can see the hole I drilled in bottom of receiver to accept the fire selector switch (just down and rear of green tape):

 

Fire selector switch:

The BlastFX kit has two ways to switch between fire modes, a rotary dial and a push button. I like the rotary dial as I can use it to mimic a real fire selector on a gun. The little push button will be mounted on bottom of blaster forward of trigger grip as a backup. The only problem is the preset electronics for the DLT don't allow a stun setting. Well, they technically do, but to adjust the settings I have to cut open the heat shrink surrounding the main logic board, pull out a micro card, install in my computer, and toggle a setting. 

I learned this when  contacted the maker about some wiring issues I was having. I had set stun previously, but when I sent my kit back for repairs, he upgraded the software and the Stun went away. If you know what you are doing, you can get on the files and make your DLT sound like any blaster in the SW universe. They are all installed on the chip!

I may or may not open the circuit board up. I'm hesitant to open everything up as I have been having dramatic moments with broken soldering connections on some of the kit components.

Slot cut in grip to hold rotary switch.

 

Switch installed (for the pic). The mass of wires will feed up through a hole that I drilled in the receiver support tube.

This is in a later pic.

 

There is a small rounded indent in the receiver, just underneath this selector switch. Through this indent you could see the main structural tube of the gun.

I just drilled through it. The selector switch will be glued to the rotary switch, then the slotted screw you see will be covered with epoxy and sanded / painted.

 

Wires fed into the receiver. You can see the outer receiver wall, and the inner tube that I drilled through. I also drilled a hole for the trigger micro switch to feed into:

 

For months I couldn't figure out what a little oval piece was. I then found a very good image of a MG34 bipod retaining bolt. It is on the bottom of the barrel shroud and holds the bipod up when it is folded and stowed. This plate is part of that assembly.

The real gun uses a unique conical bolt that holds onto the bipod legs. The kit comes with a plain screw for this function.

I ended up using a Dremel grinding bit. I originally sanded it down, but it wasn't the right shape and ended up too small. I have now shrouded it in epoxy and will sand it to shape.

I also want to source some type of tensioned metal to fit into the bipod so that when I unlock the bipod it snaps open.

 

Real MG34 bipod securing device (bottom left of picture):

 

Better Pic:. Conical bolt to the right:

 

 

Mystery oval that is not shown in instructions...

 

 

Glued on. Paint touch-ups to be done...:

 

My conical bolt version before epoxy:

 

I popped out the large slotted bolt head I had installed in the buttpad. There were lots of loose and rough fibers along the edge:

 

I filled with epoxy,  sanded smooth and then painted the whole butt again. I'll get a finished pic later.

 

T-Tracks:

 

As I mentioned before, I am replacing the T-tracks with Wannawanga ones. WELL WORTH IT!!!

 

You get 6 short (front) and 6 long rear). I have to trim the front ones as they are about 1/2" too long. Rears are just about perfect, but have to be cut to fit forward and rear of bipod attachment point.

 

The barrel shroud is divided into 3 sections:

1. a short section just forward of receiver. (don't really count this)
2. a long section that goes past midpoint, and ends under the anti-aircraft site mount (rear section)
3. forward section

The next big project will be sorting out the barrel PEW-PEW lighting issue. If you remember from last weeks episode, the LED strip does not fit between the barrel and barrel shroud. Now same may say 'Leave the barrel out!" But then how are those blaster bolts supposed to maintain integrity as they leave the gun? I digress...

 

I like the look of the barrel through some of the holes and it adds heft and structural strength. The barrel fits snugly into the front flash cone and gas block, through the mid A/A site mount ring, and into the forward receiver. It is supported very snuggly at three points.

About 1/2 of the forward and rear the barrel shroud holes are covered by the T-tracks, but there are some that allow the barrel to show through. The LED strip is the exact length of the rear shroud, and there is not enough wire to move it forward. The lighting effects will only be present at the rear of barrel.

 

So, I test fitted the T-tracks to see how much of the holes I would see by placing little balls of poster putty and tacking them in place:

 

Diagram from the DLT main forum page:

 

Rear tracks in place. You can see most of holes at 12, 10 and 2 o'clock positions.:

 

Bottom of rear section, just behind bipod securing device. The long tracks for the rear still have to be cut in half to fit forward and behind the bipod device. You can see the bottom holes (5 and 6 o'clock positions) are almost totally covered up, The 3 and 9 o'clock are completely covered. :

 

 

I made note of which holes I will hopefully see lights through, removed the tracks and circled onto the barrel with a Sharpie:

 

Barrel removed and all the circles I will drill out:

 

This is the bottom of the barrel. The long rectangle is the length and with of the LED strip. I will cut it out and the lights will shine upwards into the barrel and hopefully out the holes.

There are lots of different programmable lighting options. The one I will use has the LED's lighting up sequentially, so it looks like  a blaster bolt moving to the barrel tip:

 

Well, that is it for now. If feels good making at least some progress on this beast. I really want to get this done so I can actually be Han on the Death Star in my Hero TK...

 

 

Edited August 31, 2021 by Helotech

[Helotech[TK]]

Oops.

 

Forgot a couple pics...

 

This is on of the magnets I am thinking of using to secure the top cover. The top cover just touches the tab with the drawn circle. I will drill a hole the size of the magnet, then glue the magnet on the lid. I will then glue another magnet under this tab. When I close the lid its magnet will slip through the hole and secure itself to the tab magnet. Should work:

 

 

Blastech subsidiary contractor workshop:

[LEGOeatPokemon[TK]]

Great that you're back and at it Dave! Hope you've been well! I may also have a dlt build on my way soonish!

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