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bishopdonmiguel

Bishop's 850 Armor Works FOTK Build

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I'll see if that can be moved, in full computer version the gallery tab is separate but when you condense the screen it moves under the "more" tab ;) 

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Can you tell me how long your biceps are? Mine seem short then again mine is also second hand. So if I’m able to order biceps I want to. (I got extreme long arms so I try to adjust to my body on my 850th)


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24 minutes ago, csikora said:

Can you tell me how long your biceps are? Mine seem short then again mine is also second hand. So if I’m able to order biceps I want to. (I got extreme long arms so I try to adjust to my body on my 850th)

Longest edges are about 7-1/2"

 

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Rough trimmed more parts today...

 

Cod:

Seems a bit long but I won't know until I do a test fit. Not planning on that until I get my undersuit and gaskets. I learned my lesson on my OTTK. Don't decide on fit without an undersuit.

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Shins:

These seem like clean pulls. Return edges clean up nicely. Will probably need to tweak the seams for a better fit. I won't bore you showing both sets.

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Thighs:

My least favorite parts so far. Trim lines are hard to see. No return edges to speak of. Seams don't match on one set. Rear halves the pull is thin near seams. I think I can make it work though.

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Torso:

Main concern here is the softness of the boxes and lack of any detail on them. These will not fit without shims but will be material for that after trimming the Thermal Detonator.

 

Question:

  • I am considering building shells to sit over the boxes. Is this a bad idea?

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Chest Plate:

Nice pull. I left thick return edges but I think these will get adjusted later during fitting.

 

I started cutting out the pill holes by eye but I could not see the edges very well. So I printed another vinyl stencil to help keep me on target.

 

Question:

For Centurion I need to show "clear separation" between the plates. I assume this means I need to cut the parts away and reconnect with a gap?

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Longest edges are about 7-1/2"
 
IMG-3459.jpg&key=7b722846e966c51c8eec4138201f23214f091694c04232a51c5218cdea17e387

That’s about what I have also. So it’s just a issue on my end with having long forearm and bicep length then. Thank you and can’t wait to see your progression on your 850th also. Mine just got approved about a month ago.


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That’s about what I have also. So it’s just a issue on my end with having long forearm and bicep length then. Thank you and can’t wait to see your progression on your 850th also. Mine just got approved about a month ago.

Congrats! I hope to follow soon.

Did you have a build thread? Looking for any and all input.

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Congrats! I hope to follow soon.

Did you have a build thread? Looking for any and all input.

I don’t have a build thread. I bought mine second hand all put together. I had to alter it a bit to fit me. That was more the kidney area and do some work to get out where the yolk area is.

If you need images I’d be happy to send them your way if you’re stuck. Just not some things may look weird how it was put together, since some things I’d done differently.


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20 hours ago, bishopdonmiguel said:

Question:

  • I am considering building shells to sit over the boxes. Is this a bad idea?

Would be a lot of work but screen accurate to show a clear separation and would be needed for L3

B580289C-E904-4622-84F3-F63BA8166DD1_zpsbzmuzvpl.jpg

 

20 hours ago, bishopdonmiguel said:

Question:

For Centurion I need to show "clear separation" between the plates. I assume this means I need to cut the parts away and reconnect with a gap?

Nice work with the cutting template.

 

Really up to the DO's you could reach out to them for confirmation, you can see a separation in you chest plate but it is a little soft so wouldn't hurt to check. Depending how thick the ABS is you may be able to run a file (or sandpaper) down the recess to make it a little sharper, but I wouldn't attempt it unless it's really thick. 

 

If you do decide to cut and add backing to join back together just note there is no separations on the return edges ;) 

 

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31 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Would be a lot of work but screen accurate to show a clear separation and would be needed for L3

B580289C-E904-4622-84F3-F63BA8166DD1_zpsbzmuzvpl.jpg

 

Nice work with the cutting template.

 

Really up to the DO's you could reach out to them for confirmation, you can see a separation in you chest plate but it is a little soft so wouldn't hurt to check. Depending how thick the ABS is you may be able to run a file (or sandpaper) down the recess to make it a little sharper, but I wouldn't attempt it unless it's really thick. 

 

If you do decide to cut and add backing to join back together just note there is no separations on the return edges ;) 

 

star-wars-tfa-stormtrooper-helmet-rt_23046771593_o.jpg

These TKs are growing on me =')

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Yoke & Back:

Pulls seem quite nice. The shape of the “rear neck vents” isn’t quite accurate from what I can see in screen caps. I’ll probably make a small change to that. The circle on back isn’t quite perfect. Probably try to fix that too.

 

The back affixes to the yoke just behind the rear neck vents. Trimming is required get these to fit, although there is no obvious alignment point.
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Thermal Detonator:

These pulls looks pretty rough. I think I can make it work but it’s going to be a challenge.

 

The plate for the TD is cut from the larger pull leaving the two side scraps for torso shims.

 

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My goal for Centurion has hit the proverbial wall. I didn’t read the L3 requirements carefully enough and thought the gaskets just needed to “look” like rubber. But a more careful reading says “shall be made of rubber.” I’m in no way interested in ever wearing hot sweaty rubber, so I’ll downshift my goal to L2. BUT... I’m still going to try to make the armor look as L3 as I can. After all, reaching for the extra details is just a personal journey anyway so why not.

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Belt Box Prep:

The depth of the belt boxes seem quite thick. I scoured through Ukswrath build and used whatever information I could find to bring some consistency to these.

 

I think the two boxes for the front belt look pretty good and I have an idea on how I will approach their mounting to the belt.

 

The one for the left side pouch also looks good but I’m concerned about it fitting over the pouch that I ordered from Trooperbay. We will see on that after the pouches arrives.

 

The boxes for the right side don’t look “square” enough to my eyes. Additionally, the smaller box has no “inner box” for attaching to the belt white the larger one has no extra material provided to create the “lid” look as seen in the reference photos. I will probably reduce the depth of the larger box but didn’t want to make that decision just yet. I’ve ordered some ABS sheet to help modify these into what I hope will be more accurate representations of these items.

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Left Side Pouch Cover:

The pouches from Trooperbay arrived just as I finished with the box prep. The left side cover feels a tad small. The Velcro doesn’t fit flush against the inside, but rather, it bends around the corners. I don’t think this is a deal breaker. Once I find something to fill the pouch with, it might fit better.

 

It’s a close fit. The photos below illustrate the length and width of the Velcro vs. the cover. Note, I have offset the cover so the Velcro height/width can be clearly seen.

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RE: Belt boxes,the dimensions of the TFA production created boxes are as follows:


RIGHT HIP
Small Box
102mm L x 74mm x W x 22mm D
Large Box
133mm L x 74mm W x 35mm D

CENTRE BOXES
White Fascia
124mm L x 47mm W x 12mm D
Black Back
10mm-15mm

POUCH FASCIA
162mm L x 83mm W x 8mm D

The black back to the centre boxes as a curved piece made from resin. It was 10mm at the centre point, 15mm at the edges.


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3 hours ago, JAFO said:

RE: Belt boxes,the dimensions of the TFA production created boxes are as follows:
 

THANK YOU! That’s excellent info. Soon as I get the ABS in hand, I’ll be making any necessary changes.

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I removed the “bowl” for the Bicep pills. After I paint, I will back these with a small piece of ABS sheet. I think this will look much close to the production costumes vs. the deep depression.

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THANK YOU! That’s excellent info. Soon as I get the ABS in hand, I’ll be making any necessary changes.


Do you 3D print?


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Just now, JAFO said:

 


Do you 3D print?

 

Yes. Not a huge fan of PLA. I find that the effort required is often similar to just making stuff. But for certain things, it’s amazing.

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I think I have stated this previously, but I’m holding off assembling any limbs until I receive my gaskets. The thickness is an unknown issue and I made sizing mistakes in my OTTK build.

 

In the meantime, I’m working on some other things like the forearm details. The kit includes a resin cast of the inset but to my eye it is not accurate and cleaning it up would require too much work. So I designed a 3D model of the panel that fits this kit and printed. I’ll be molding and casting this in semi-rigid resin.

 

Question:

Does this look okay or are there changes I should make? Don’t want to spend time cleaning it up for molding if there is a design element I’ve overlooked.

 

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