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mlarsen

mlarsen's ANH TK Build (AP trimmed kit)

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I made some progress over the last few days.

 

Installed some snaps and rivets, I still need to paint the rivets white on the chest plate.

gFgUvR4.jpg

1sZFR5g.jpg

yvtX7Xm.jpg

 

Added buttons to chest plate:

FGhSF78.jpg

 

Added a hook to the back of the bicep plates to keep the elastic in place.  I assume this is ok?  The shoulder bells seem big but we'll see what the final fit looks like.  Also need to clean up/trim those cover strips on the biceps.

V5CFdBC.jpg

 

Fits seems fairly good but a little off centered/rivets don't line up and would like this to look a little cleaner.  I may need to lower the back piece a little by making the elastic in the shoulders a bit longer.

GFoeUJX.jpg

 

Suggestions and feedback?

 

Edited by mlarsen
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Also, I plan on using Chicago style screw posts to attach the canvas belt to ammo pack/drop boxes to elastic/holster to canvas belt.  Is there a recommend size on the Chicago screws?  1/4" or 3/16"?

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You could try pulling the ab a little higher, may even out the sides.

 

Many use 1/4" Chicago screws. 

 

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Hi, I would suggest to trim a little more your small ab buttons .  as the reference photo bellow

 

nji4TUpUxxCA6nGgdvs0aMu33bxJ_Na5QlsZC2JT

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22 hours ago, mlarsen said:

Fits seems fairly good but a little off centered/rivets don't line up and would like this to look a little cleaner.  I may need to lower the back piece a little by making the elastic in the shoulders a bit longer.

GFoeUJX.jpg

If lowering your back piece does not do it, you could reinforce the seam by gluing a couple of pieces of nylon strapping to the back side - in between the riveted connections.  These pieces will resist rotating somewhat.

 

Also, when it comes to how your ab and kidney fit - you will want to test it with the belt before you get too carried away with fine tuning.  The belt holds it all together and can make a difference.

 

Looking great so far!

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Thanks for the advice and I will trim up the small ab buttons a little more.

 

Here is my initial test fit.  I have long arms and I feel like there is too much black at the elbow but maybe it is ok.  I tried to lower the biceps as far as I could and center the forearm piece the best I could.  Still some fine tuning needed but I think I will save that until the belt is finished.

IyGctyZ.jpg

HMo2C9t.jpg

 

And the side rivets aligned better:

h2abPQW.jpg

 

On to the belt and leg pieces next.

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I think the arms look fine.  :duim:   Centering the forearm so that the black showing at the elbow is proportional to the black showing at the wrist (between handguard and forearm) is the important thing.  The best advice now is to attach the hand guards and see if you have need to move your forearms up a touch.

 

The right thigh can be a bit tricky.  The raised return edge along the front seam is curved a bit.  I had to glue the coverstrip to the bottom half - let it dry - and then do the upper half so I could bend the coverstrip enough to allow for the curvature.  Also, using inner coverstrips helped as well. 

 

And... you will likely want to do inner coverstrips on the shins as they receive more stress than other parts due to the dressing process. 

 

Keep up the great work!  You are flying through this.

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Hi, looking good. As a suggestion , for higher levels of accuracy the hovi tips the crl states:

 

  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

This is  if you would like to have a better look on your helmet. below the reference photo

 

n_DpdhK9Ya-WYtRKHb_F-_DSCbmbt9h-qhMl7zSX

 

 

cheers

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4 minutes ago, wook1138 said:

I think the arms look fine.  :duim:   Centering the forearm so that the black showing at the elbow is proportional to the black showing at the wrist (between handguard and forearm) is the important thing.  The best advice now is to attach the hand guards and see if you have need to move your forearms up a touch.

 

The right thigh can be a bit tricky.  The raised return edge along the front seam is curved a bit.  I had to glue the coverstrip to the bottom half - let it dry - and then do the upper half so I could bend the coverstrip enough to allow for the curvature.  Also, using inner coverstrips helped as well. 

 

And... you will likely want to do inner coverstrips on the shins as they receive more stress than other parts due to the dressing process. 

 

Keep up the great work!  You are flying through this.

Got it thanks for the advice! 

 

2 minutes ago, TKSpartan said:

Hi, looking good. As a suggestion , for higher levels of accuracy the hovi tips the crl states:

 

  • Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips are present. Screens used shall be of a wide type mesh, with the rim of the mic and the inside white or painted white.

This is  if you would like to have a better look on your helmet. below the reference photo

 

n_DpdhK9Ya-WYtRKHb_F-_DSCbmbt9h-qhMl7zSX

 

 

cheers

:duim: I still need to do that as well as remove a blue strip that is hidden under the ear piece and paint the screws/rivets white.

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Have you thought about shortening your arms? Think about it, that might solve the problem. I think it looks good the way it’s going.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looking good, a couple of adjustments and you should be right, appears you could probably drop your biceps a touch too ;) 

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1 hour ago, mlarsen said:

nough of the return edge removed on both forearms or should I try and remove more?

Hi,

 

For Level 3 , It Looks like need to remove more, as per the CRL states:

 

  • No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.

Cheers :salute:

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