TheRascalKing[TK] Posted September 11, 2019 Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 (edited) Great insight from Kalani and it's coming along super nice so far! And rats, I forgot to remind you - I usually drill the holes for the left side rivets, then glue the strapping in, then use a soldering iron to poke the holes for the rivets through, then set the rivets through the nylon. You can totally glue over the top, but the other way looks cleaner. New cut line looks good. Putting a little 1/2" spacer block between the sniper knee and cover strip sometimes helps everything align better too. Keep up the great work! Edited September 11, 2019 by TheRascalKing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progressbarloading[TK] Posted September 11, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 Great insight from Kalani and it's coming along super nice so far! And rats, I forgot to remind you - I usually drill the holes for the left side rivets, then glue the strapping in, then use a soldering iron to poke the holes for the rivets through, then set the rivets through the nylon. You can totally glue over the top, but the other way looks cleaner. New cut line looks good. Putting a little 1/2" spacer block between the sniper knee and cover strip sometimes helps everything align better too. Keep up the great work!Thanks Justin! I had hoped to do that with the webbing, but since the strapping came preinstalled with the snaps it looked like a rough fit to squeeze the rivet locations in between.Are you saying a 1/2" long piece of extra material on top of the shin cover strip to thicken up between the cover strip and knee? Or 1/2" thick? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRascalKing[TK] Posted September 11, 2019 Report Share Posted September 11, 2019 1 hour ago, progressbarloading said: Thanks Justin! I had hoped to do that with the webbing, but since the strapping came preinstalled with the snaps it looked like a rough fit to squeeze the rivet locations in between. Are you saying a 1/2" long piece of extra material on top of the shin cover strip to thicken up between the cover strip and knee? Or 1/2" thick? Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk The rivet locations are kind of a suggestion as long as their evenly spaced, so... 1/2" or so thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progressbarloading[TK] Posted October 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Hey all, it's been a while but I've been plugging away at the build - in the interest of not spamming posts I'll be outlining major chunks of progress photos as I have them (pic heavy). Will be taking overall build photos tonight as well for hopeful pre-approval. -Ab+Belt progress Setting Belt Line 24 male snaps E6000 covers on top Cutting down holster Marking holster position on canvas Marking belt position on ab [forgot to take picture] Positioning drop box -Arm Strapping bicep strapping shoulder elastic Had to adjust shoulder - back/chest connection - was way too deep before/after (shown between 2 shoulders) -Thigh Progress Thigh clamping Aftermath - lots of excess E6000 but holds true/flat After cleanup Front - will put a backer inner cover strip in and glue one side, then the other to tighten up the connection there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progressbarloading[TK] Posted October 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 -Sniper Knee re-clamping center Closing trim really not fun - -Core Strapping (Chest/Back) Adding chest cover strips Chest/ab interior connection Back interior connection Ab/kidney right side Posterior Core Painting Button Layout Tape trimmed Paint Blue applied Grey applied After Gluing buttons to ab -Wrist Return Edge Before/in progress After -Shins Trimming velcro - cover strip side 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progressbarloading[TK] Posted October 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Pre-approval thread posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullseye[TK] Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) On 9/4/2019 at 5:04 PM, kman said: I've only removed my ammo pack from my belt once in the 3+ years I've had it (which was quite simple, with the Chicago screws), so I personally recommend the Chicago screws over the snaps that Justin is recommending, but either will do the job. Go whichever way you prefer. My belt hasn't been damaged, so I think you're fine as long as you're not trying to press sharp folds. @kmanFor securing the ammo belt to the canvas (and boxes to the elastic) what size Chicago screws did you use? Edited October 14, 2019 by Bullseye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRascalKing[TK] Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 15 hours ago, Bullseye said: @kmanFor securing the ammo belt to the canvas (and boxes to the elastic) what size Chicago screws did you use? I believe 1/4" is most commonly used. Totally dealer's choice for how you attach the ammo belt, just be aware of my warning as to folding/cracking the reinforcement in the canvas belt. Much less of an issue if you have a big crate with lots of room, a luxury I unfortunately do not have haha https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screws-Plain-Pcs-Silver/dp/B00355AN4U 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kman[TK] Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, TheRascalKing said: I believe 1/4" is most commonly used. Totally dealer's choice for how you attach the ammo belt, just be aware of my warning as to folding/cracking the reinforcement in the canvas belt. Much less of an issue if you have a big crate with lots of room, a luxury I unfortunately do not have haha https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Screws-Plain-Pcs-Silver/dp/B00355AN4U Yup, I'm pretty sure I used 1/4" as well. Pretty much any size that's in that range should work, and which one works for you depends on your belt, your ammo belt, and what sort of repairs (if any) are needed, because that all stacks up and determines how thick things are. It's easy to pad things out a little with some spare ABS if it's a smidge longer than needed, than if it's too short to grip adequately. In fact, it may be a good idea to make an ABS washer on the back side, to give more surface area to grip the belt, but it's not strictly necessary. Again, a lot depends on the thickness of the belt. (Anovos OEM belt vs. Imperial Issue, vastly different thicknesses, for instance) Oh, and my belt boxes came pre-assembled from Anovos, already glued together, so I didn't use anything on mine. Others I've assisted have opted for simple rivets, or even just gluing the elastic in place, or both. Chicago screws would technically work here, too, but again, you'll probably want to shim out the inside with scrap ABS "washers" to give extra thickness and strength. And the c-screws would need to be short enough that the shallow boxes still close fully. Edited October 14, 2019 by kman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progressbarloading[TK] Posted November 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2019 Alright, as mentioned in the pre-approval, I am APPROVED, but the SAGA CONTINUES.... Armor party this Sunday, planning on a few things unless the community thinks otherwise (note - still shooting for EIB/Centurion) General question - Are mineral spirits and/or novus polish enough to remove paint? Return Edge Trimming - taking some more down per pre-approval thread and troop log feedback per this thread Helmet Blackout Was originally planning on blacking out the interior with truck bed liner I was looking at TK-17511's bucket and he had lined the interior with industrial black velcro instead Means I don't need to take the whole thing apart, either Makes sense to me - any advanced tactics issues? Ear screw replacement - unscrew Anovos screws and install the v-screws I've already painted from the centurion kit Touch up paint on the frown, Add the fake extra teeth on each end of the frown Touch up mesh to frown with E6000 File out additional return edge on the eyes Pop out mic tips Replace mesh with thicker mesh from ukswrath Paint tip interiors white [doubtful I'll get to it, but noting I'll need to order stencils / repaint tube stripes eventually]. Left Shin Need to E6000 the rear cover strip velcro down Gaff/Electrical Tape some 1" x 1" x 8" foam to the interior at front cover strip to push the sniper plate forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted November 14, 2019 Report Share Posted November 14, 2019 Mineral turps and polish is usually enough to remove paint. Looks like you'll have a bit to do at the armor party, luckily there are some ready to lend a hand. You can also add a little white paint to the rim of the mic tips. Also E6000 will stick to foam if you want to use that behind your sniper plate Good luck with the progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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