Jump to content

revlimiter's AP TK Stunt build


revlimiter

Recommended Posts

Howdy Troopers!!

 

Starting a thread here has been on my list of things to do for nearly 18 months. Shameful, but... I work a ton and tend to be pretty forgetful. Also moving and a ton of other excuses kept me from starting some armor. 

 

I got a big brown box something like 18 months ago. Maybe longer? Ages. It's sat and been dusty. Meanwhile, the brother armor belonging to Scimitar has been built and trooping around happily for months.  It's an exact double. Everything Eric bought two of everything and shipped half to me. Which is awesome because I *have* everything I need to do the armor. But... clueless about putting it together.

 

Anyways, more build less talk.

 

0523190935.jpg

 

Eric pre-trimmed this bucket for me (many thanks) before shipping it off. And 18 months later, I spent something like 90 minutes painting the frown on. I... can't explain how it took me that long. I've not painted something BIG in ages. I usually use toothpicks and micro brushes on Hot Wheels. Trying to get an even coat of grey on the frown was rough for this toothpick painter.

 

And rougher still was learning that I got some paint into the gums and had to fix it. lol

 

0526191817.jpg

 

About a week later, I got to here.

 

0526191817b.jpg

 

0526191817c.jpg

 

Not perfect but pretty decent. Good enough to move forward with the armor while occasionally running around with a bucket on my head.

 

0526191409b.jpg

 

Yeah, getting to wear my bucket for the first time was a proud day.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

0614192042.jpg

 

Next, I rough cut my entire armor set in one evening. I was a bit optimistic on that... my fingers still have blisters from those fine lexan sheers. But It's all rough cut!

 

0614191806.jpg

 

The biceps were the strangest. No clear guide of where to cut. I trimmed in the valley at Eric's instruction but... yeah. I now have the bicep halves cut apart and sitting. There's not much definition on the pieces. I'm not too sure where to trim for the fine trimming. These are the next part I get to figure out though, as they're next for glue.

 

0618191110_HDR.jpg

I have ONE whole forearm halfway done! This is a big deal for me. I can get my arm inside and the cover strip is even close to the correct 15mm size.

 

0618191110a_HDR.jpg

 

The other side is clamped and curing at this very moment. I'll pop the magnets off in a few hours, glue on the inner strip, and then let it sit undisturbed for a day or longer.

 

Getting the forearm halves to line up required a ton of work. See, I'd trimmed this forearm like 18 month ago. Then it sat. It warped a bit during the time in the brown box, so I got to massage it with the heat gun to create roundness again.

 

0618191111_HDR.jpg

Forearm #2 ready to go. Just waiting on some proper sized clamps from amazon to show up this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And the last bit of backlogged pix.

 

0618191113.jpg

 

I changed out the acetate for hard lenses from trooperbay. SO much easier to see through! I copied Eric's excellent lens mounting method with the T nuts glued to the bucket. The lenses are tight at the top and have a bit of breathing room at the bottom.

 

0618191113a.jpg

 

My helmet electronics are a mess at the moment. I'm moving them here and there, trying to get space for both my head and the wires. Once I'm happy with placement, I'll tidy things and take a couple pix.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Adam.  Better late than never.  Nice work so far.  :duim: 

 

Be warned when using the heat gun - things can go south pretty quick.  If you can, try a hot water bath (stick ABS in boiling water for a minute - shape - and hold under cold water to lock in new shape). 

 

One little thing - it looks like you put your tube stripes on the wrong sides (left on right, right on left).  This won't affect basic approval, but it is recommended for higher level approval. And be sure to paint the screws on the helmet white. 

 

Some of the trim lines can be hard to see.  I had to use the underside of the pieces to see the trim line in a few places.  I can send you images of where I trimmed by biceps if you need some visual guidance.

 

Good luck with the build!

Edited by wook1138
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking at this thread...

 

And I thought I'd put the stripes on correctly. Though, to be honest, the little arcs look symmetrical to me. It would be my luck to have chosen wrong... lol

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

0619191011b.jpg

 

Reading build threads yesterday, I came across someone building thighs and shins by doing the inner cover strip FIRST. This created a nice, strong, flat surface for the outer

cover strip to adhere to and I loved the idea. When I went back today to give credit, I couldn't find it to save my life. Sorry Trooper.

 

Anyways, gonna try that with my second forearm - inner strip first and then the outer. I figure if it doesn't work, I can just tear them apart and start again.  But for right now it's curing!

 

0619191016.jpg

 

I did the inner strip this morning and carefully disassembled it this evening to pop on the outer strip. Now the sandwich will cure for a couple days before I move onto the other side.

 

 

0619191023.jpg

And tomorrow, I'll have my first completed armor piece once the first forearm cures. MUCH EXCITE!!  I'm looking forward to finishing the outer edges and cleaning up the ton of glue everywhere.

 

And using the under side of the biceps, I was able to figure out where to trim. Many thanks wook!! No idea why I was squinting and trying to find detail on the front side.

 

0619191124_HDR.jpg

Got it roughly sized to me. Flat edge in the front, tapered in the back. I'll trim the edge up tomorrow and add some glue once I have free magnets handy.

 

And on the off chance of helping any future AP kit owners, here's a couple pix of the back side of the biceps before I did the fine trimming. I tried to bring out the highlight details and emphasize the molded in details.

 

0619191123.jpg

 

0619191123b.jpg

 

And lastly, a new set of tube stripe stickers and some S trim is on the way from trooperbay right now. :)

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Except for biceps I did inner then outer strips because it let me add in carefully measured gaps to get pieces big enough for my size.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

It's been a long time. A long time.

 

I own/run a small business that's been blessed with insane orders during COVID. But... insane orders. I haven't really had a chance to stop or breathe or do anything but work for the past couple years. My armor has sat in a semi-trimmed state in the original big brown box for all of that time. It's sad, but life required it. 

 

A few weeks ago, Eric (@scimitar) had some time off coming up and offered to fly out, hang out, and build some armor. In only four days, armor went from pieces of plastic to a nearly complete set!

 

tk1.jpg

 

tk2.jpg

 

I cut cover strips, made snap plates, and did general E6000 things while Eric gave the armor pieces final trimming and assembly. At the end of the first night....

 

tk3.jpg

 

tk31.jpg

A torso!! That can be worn! 

 

I'm still medium ashamed that I was never able to get things farther myself. Working 10-16 hour days 7 days a week for 2 years hasn't been good for learning new things or understanding complex shapes and their relation/attachment in three dimensions.

 

Also... most of these pix are Eric's. I wasn't apparently in a photo state of mind. Documenting things. Nope. It was Make All The Things time in my head. So pix are quite light here.

 

tk4.jpg

And then arms could be attached and I almost felt troopy.

 

tk41.jpg

Some leg massaging at the master's hands... er... backspace that. Ixnay on the assage-may. Leg day arrived!

 

Legs got roughed in, snipped, boiled, reshaped, and glued. Not necessarily in that order.

 

tk5.jpg

And then I got to wear the most armor I've ever worn in my life. It was magical. I don't know why I didn't just buckle down and do this all before now. Well, yes, I do. Work has been insane. But armor!!! It finally exists!

 

 

 

 

Edited by revlimiter
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things left undone after the 4 day armor fest:

- ab buttons

- shoulder bridges

- rear shin cover strips and attachment method

- thigh garters

- misc smol details like screw paint, glue removal, and knee trimming.

 

tk6.jpg

 

tk7.jpg

The shoulder bridges have metal reinforcement and inner ABS void filling. I got them as close to the correct angle as possible and stuck them on. Fingers crossed that they're in the right spot.

 

 

tk8.jpg

Rear shin cover strips have been gluing about 24 hours at this point. I'm gonna let them sit a bit longer before adding the velcro strips. I'd really like to not have that E6000 pop free.

 

Also, the garter snap plates have been glued in and the ab buttons are in place. Excess E6000 is slowly being worried free and screws/rivets are now painted white. Everything on my list has been addressed and will get crossed off SOON!

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Albuquerque was a blast! What I got to see of it anyway... :P

 

Seriously though, I feel like we built an amazing set of armor in the short time that we had and I was super excited that you got to suit up in a mostly finished state before I left. Great feeling seeing it on you and your excitement as a result. Can't wait to see you get your first 501st approval and then move on to EIB & Centurion!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the shoulder bridges glued in place and seemingly lined up well. These have thin aluminum glued inside with a wrap of fuzzy-side velcro over top (underneath?) to prevent scratches. I did the fuzzy stuff after finding scratches from this test fitting...

 

tk9.jpg

Not bad IMO! They're decently straight, angled well, and close up flush.

 

tk10.jpg

 

tk11.jpg

 

I, of course, managed to not snap a front pic, but these side ones give a feel for how flush they are on the front as well. A tiny bit of heat gunning to get the front outer edges bent down very slightly to hide the edges of the aluminum really gave them a clean fit.

 

tk12.jpg

And here's the buttons glued on about as high as they'll go. This low angle might over-emphasize the button overlap a bit. Hopefully this belt alignment works tho.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, revlimiter said:

tk12.jpg

And here's the buttons glued on about as high as they'll go. This low angle might over-emphasize the button overlap a bit. Hopefully this belt alignment works tho.

You may want to remove a little paint from your ab buttons if you are aiming for higher levels as they are a touch on the large side

If you compare to the reference image below you will notice they should stop just before the lower ridge

LSuei4K.jpg?1

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

tk13.jpg

I actually got to armor up last night!!!  Thigh garters installed and boot/shin velcro done meant I had legs and could actually walk around. It was fantastic.

 

tk14.jpg

Sets rather cunning dontcha think?  In all seriousness, I've got a little tweaking to do but am very happy with how it fits, moves, and aligns.

 

tk15.jpg

Kitty does not approve of E6000 smells or clanky armor.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You may want to remove a little paint from your ab buttons if you are aiming for higher levels as they are a touch on the large side

If you compare to the reference image below you will notice they should stop just before the lower ridge

 

 

Thanks for pointing that out. I haven't been totally thrilled with the buttons. Work was definitely required.

 

tk16.jpg

A little research revealed the buttons should be 11mm. Mine were between 13 and 13.5. I drew pencil circles at the base and just painted to there originally and.... not good.  So I drew some circles in CAD at 11mm and had the plotter cut them out of vinyl. Maybe non-white would have been a better choice for visibility, but it was in the plotter at the time. I cut a row of them, so I ended up with about 40 of these little reverse dots.

 

tk17.jpg

The old buttons. 13mm and janky.

 

tk18.jpg

Protective tape applied and paint removed. And let me tell ya - wow. That acrylic blue paint did NOT want to go away. The grey enamel came off relatively easy but that acrylic was on there. Still, I got it free and didn't make a blue mess everywhere.

 

Then I stuck on the 11mm templates and heat-gunned them flat in hopes of making the best seal possible. It meant a little glue residue removal was required, but that's much easier than fixing 9/9 buttons.

 

tk19.jpg

Paint applied. I painted from the edges to the center in hopes of not forcing paint under the vinyl edge.

 

tk20.jpg

Vinyl and tape removed and cleaned up. And BAM!!! It looks SO much better. They're much more round, far less janky, and actually the right size now.

 

tk21.jpg

One more from a slightly farther distance. I'm really happy with this.

 

I'll give them a cure overnight and then armor up tomorrow for basic approval pix.

Edited by revlimiter
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I could probably tweak the armor for another month, but it feels pretty good and solid. It was time for basic approval pix before I could put it off any longer.

 

suit-1.jpg

 

suit-2.jpg

 

suit-3.jpg

 

suit-5.jpg

 

suit-7.jpg

 

suit-8.jpg

 

To do:

- magnet boxes on one side of the torso

- something to align the other side slightly nicer

- finish weathering the blaster

- mobility cuts in the legs

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good.

 

A couple of things you could address:

Cut off the extra clip material from your TD. Also rotate the detonator so you can see more of the O detail. 

suit-2.jpg

 ENBGgGW.jpg?1  eXtIssr.jpg?2   dSrTOGG.jpg

A solution from @Chemi in another thread

1.  Remove the clips and trim off the ends (you can use a hacksaw).

2.  Trim end caps.

3.  Move the clips to where the ends meet the bottom of the control pad and next to the end caps. .

4.  Drill holes in the clips for the new screw position. 

5.  Re-attach the screws.

CAc37gi.jpg

 gXu4Mft.jpg     

 

Also adjust the alignment of the tops of the Ab/Kidney as they are stepped at the moment

suit-3.jpgsuit-5.jpg

 

Good luck with approval

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm working on getting that TD to be a bit better.

 

As for me, I'm approved and got a TK number!!!! TK 89400 reporting for duty!! :smiley-sw013:

 

Also, I did some work on my blaster. It's a vintage Hyperfirm B grade, apparently one of the last they sold. It had weathering all over the place. Lots on the grip. Some on the T-tracks. TONS of brass on the scope. So I repainted it completely.

 

blaster1.jpg

 

blaster2.jpg

 

blaster3.jpg

 

I'm a fan of weathering. I like it and tend to weather most of my models. But it needs to be at least realistic and not too obvious. Major wear areas should have weathering visible from a few feet away, but the rest should be very subtle. At least in my opinion. I tried to do that here.

 

blaster4.jpg

I also added an accurate D ring to the blaster.

 

blaster7.jpg

I drilled out the scope a bit and fit a dot of black vinyl with an epoxy dome to give the front a bit more character. Sad black rubber scope was sad... and now it's much happier.

 

blaster5.jpg

 

blaster6.jpg

 

And then I printed up a counter sticker and something fun for the scope! :D

 

I drilled the scope out to a bit over 24 mm and gave it some depth. Then I filled it a tiny bit with resin to give it a flat base. And then I printed a scope sticker on holofoil with an epoxy dome. The design is based on Crosshair's scope in Bad Batch with a little bit of tweaking. Even with being stuck in a shallow well, the holofoil manages to catch light nicely and reflect rainbows as it gets waved around. Super fun.

 

The counter sticker is black and white printed over dark grey vinyl. The design is simple, but overlaid on a hengstler counter photo to get the dimensions right. I'll swap this one out for one with my TK number shortly.

 

The nicer weathering and small personal details have me loving this little E11. Fun to combine my day job with TK tweaks!

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!!! I'm far too happy about having a TK number. :salute:

 

I got a little more work done. I addressed my thermal detonator finally. First, I unrolled it to get the donut rotation closer to correct. I managed to not take pix of this. Just careful unrolling of the metal clips to an even level and then a bit of bending to remove the arc. And it was great, but the TD hung waaayyyy down under the belt. It wasn't good. The rotation was great, but it was just way too low.

 

det1.jpg

So I unbent the metal clips and hammered them somewhat flat. Then it went in my bench vise and new bends were installed at the right height. That's what the above pic shows.  Fortunately this metal bends very easy. I can do most of it by hand. But flattening and adding even bends are jobs for tools.

 

det2.jpg

YES! Not only is the rotation good, but the det is even on the belt. Wild success!

 

det3.jpg

det4.jpg

I snipped off the overhanging ends of the metal clips and re-re-re flattened and bent things flat behind the belt. I reapplied the little angles at the tips and re-covered them with fuzzy velcro. Worth the hour or so of bending and hammering.

 

 

blaster8.jpg

And then I printed a new sticker for my E11 with my TK number on it. :Stormtrooper_walk_south:

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a Trunk R Treat within walking distance of the house on Oct 30th, so I trooped over there with my daughter. She in a blow up T-rex and me in the TK. It wasn't a long troop. Maybe 30 minutes and a half mile of walking, but it was enough to reveal something that needed fixing ASAP - thigh mobility.

 

tk25.jpg

The shins feel pretty good, but the thighs dug into my knees on every curb or stair. I trimmed them as symmetrically as I could and am pleased with the result.

 

tk23.jpg

tk24.jpg

But the gaps at the backs became VERY noticeable to me. Just more gap than I wanted and more than I thought I'd be able to get away with for Centurion.

 

tk27.jpg

tk26.jpg

ABS paste mixed up! Thanks to the excellent thread here and an old baby food bottle, some scrap armor got turned to goo and applied to the backs of the knees.

 

And then it was the learning curve to sand and finish them. I tried sanding while things were still a bit soft but wasn't happy with the finish. Waiting for full cure seemed to produce a smoother finish. I mowed things down with the dremel and sanding drum, then 220 grit to flatten things down to the right level. Then 400 -> 800 -> 1000 -> 2000 -> Medium cut compound -> Ultimate compound.

 

tk28.jpg

tk29.jpg

tk30.jpg

I could torture myself trying to get a flawless finish, but this seems more than good enough. Especially in a low area that's not often noticed. I mean, I even got a shine on the plastic. Pretty pleased for my first time doing ABS paste.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work with the ABS paste.

 

One thing that stands out which I didn't notice previously is your cover strips, they don't appear to be central to the thigh, this may come up at higher levels

tk24.jpg

Reference comparison

gallery_12157_15_46182.jpg

 

Here is the gallery for reference for mobility cut outs 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...