Jump to content
Fives-Niner

Fives-Niner’s ANH Stunt

Recommended Posts

Hey Michael stuff the bicep under the shoulder bell.

 

Shoulder%20plates.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Michael!  

You could also stand to remove some returns from the top of the forearm, top and bottom of the bicep, and bottom of the shoulder bells.  :) 

gallery_12157_16_24850.jpg

(Screen used shoulder bell is on the left...)
gallery_12157_15_13346.jpg

:D  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Hey Michael stuff the bicep under the shoulder bell.

 

Shoulder%20plates.jpg

Should I reglue the snaps I have set to make it stay that way? Also how do I measure how long to make the strapping?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Cricket said:

Hi Michael!  

You could also stand to remove some returns from the top of the forearm, top and bottom of the bicep, and bottom of the shoulder bells.  :) 

gallery_12157_16_24850.jpg

(Screen used shoulder bell is on the left...)
gallery_12157_15_13346.jpg

:D

So just clean it up a bit more? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Fives-Niner said:

So just clean it up a bit more? 


I suggest removing the excess along the green lines.    If the bottom of the bicep is the same way, then remove that as well.  :) 

48055799502_99e3af2c97_z.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Cricket said:


I suggest removing the excess along the green lines.    If the bottom of the bicep is the same way, then remove that as well.  :) 

48055799502_99e3af2c97_z.jpg

Ohhh...okay! I thought that was required but that would explain why it bites so much, it isn't meant to be there. :laugh1:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Fives-Niner said:

Should I reglue the snaps I have set to make it stay that way? Also how do I measure how long to make the strapping?

If you need to adjust yes. Positioning depends on your arm length and it's different for everyone. Space the sections so they meet the criteria below.

 

1. Shoulder Bells should basically touch the shoulder covers.

2. The Biceps under the Bells. How much depends on 3 & 4

3. Roughly a 1/4" gap between the biceps and forearms

4. Forearm roughly ends at the wrist bone

 

Hope this helps

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, ukswrath said:

If you need to adjust yes. Positioning depends on your arm length and it's different for everyone. Space the sections so they meet the criteria below.

 

1. Shoulder Bells should basically touch the shoulder covers.

2. The Biceps under the Bells. How much depends on 3 & 4

3. Roughly a 1/4" gap between the biceps and forearms

4. Forearm roughly ends at the wrist bone

 

Hope this helps

That helps a lot thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, ukswrath said:

3. Roughly a 1/4" gap between the biceps and forearms

4. Forearm roughly ends at the wrist bone

I would concentrate on #3. Having the biceps and forearms as close together as possible will make bending your arms more comfortable. The elbow joint gap should be the same on makes of armour but the amount of wrist gap should be irrelevant since the priority should be how the armour feels. You only get the wrist gap when your arms are straight down which is rare when you're wearing armour.

 

Take a look at the original ANH armour to see how much wrist gap there is when the troopers are not carrying their blasters.

Do4wuah.jpg

B8inmK8.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, troopermaster said:

I would concentrate on #3. Having the biceps and forearms as close together as possible will make bending your arms more comfortable. The elbow joint gap should be the same on makes of armour but the amount of wrist gap should be irrelevant since the priority should be how the armour feels. You only get the wrist gap when your arms are straight down which is rare when you're wearing armour.

 

Take a look at the original ANH armour to see how much wrist gap there is when the troopers are not carrying their blasters.

Do4wuah.jpg

B8inmK8.jpg

Very handy! (Ha get it?) One thing I can't seem to figure out is how to attach the hand plates to the gloves. Glue? Velcro? Sew them on somehow?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Fives-Niner said:

I finished a rough draft of the armor...a very rough draft... the thighs, kidney, and posterior seem to give me the most issues. Any suggestions based on my photos?

Can´t see any photos:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Michael, 

Just a suggestion, but you'd probably get more feedback on your pics if you posted them directly in your posts instead of posting a link.  @justjoseph63 gave you some good tips:) 

Also, who is your armor maker?  I don't recall it being mentioned, and it can often help us provide the best feedback about what kind of adjustments you'll be needing along the way.  ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
26 minutes ago, Cricket said:

Hey Michael, 

Just a suggestion, but you'd probably get more feedback on your pics if you posted them directly in your posts instead of posting a link.  @justjoseph63 gave you some good tips:) 

Also, who is your armor maker?  I don't recall it being mentioned, and it can often help us provide the best feedback about what kind of adjustments you'll be needing along the way.  ;) 

Right! I’ll try that.

L9BsGQ4h.jpg hMHHoikh.jpg rGWJdRYh.jpg QzgZxhmh.jpgMy armor builder is actually Matt Gauthier, who I didn’t realize until after I’d made my purchase was on the “Individuals to avoid” list. I was pretty worried I’d been scammed for a while but the armor came with everything as listed, helmet assembled, ab buttons on, even a week earlier than expected. It’s just a sizing issue really.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So looking at your photos you could use a few adjustments if you're up for it. Besides reducing and tightening the gaps between sections here's a few more areas that need attention. 

 

Thighs are disproportionate to the calves, they're too large and could stand to be reduced. Also, the cover strips are supposed to stop at the lower return edge, not cover it. They're also supposed to cover any gaps between the halves, notably at the top. 

 

Shins - The sniper knee is too off center and positioned at a awkward angle, it could stand to be centered and more verticle. Lastly I don't see any cover strips on the back of your calves, are you still working on these?

 

How are your biceps coming? I noticed in an earlier post they looked to be assembled with "overlap" construction instead of the correct "butt and strip" like the other areas.

 

Anyway, just a few things to be aware of. Keep up the good work. :jc_doublethumbup:

Edited by ukswrath
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good job getting the images in your post!  :)  Much easier for all of us to evaluate things to help you.

You've got a lot of adjustments that need to be made on your kit, but you mentioned that it's a rough draft, soooo...

There are two things that jump out at me right off the bat: thighs and shins.

Thighs: they can still be sized down quite a bit to fit the circumference of your leg.   Typically, you can fit about two fingers width in the top of the thigh.  More than that, and they're too large.  More than that, though, is that they will feel too big, like a pair of loose cargo shorts, and they will rattle around quite loudly.  I like to think of thighs fitting more like a pair of well-fitting jeans.  Not too loose, but not too snug, either.  

Screen reference, and look at how close the tops of the thighs fit on these troopers.

gallery_12157_11_319688.jpg

Second thing are the shins:  In the photos, the shins look like they were cut at a really severe angle.  Could we see some more detail on those?  Also, the shins are riding up too high.  They should fit snug well on top of the boot and stay there.

Screen reference for the shin placement on the boots:
gallery_12157_11_653630.jpg

Have you had a good read through one of Ukswrath's amazing armor build threads?  Man, it was my go-to when I was building my first kit, even though the armor makers were different.  I've even referred back to it for my 4th TK build (currently in progress, but almost done!).  :) 
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-build/

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/14/2019 at 9:30 AM, Fives-Niner said:

Very handy! (Ha get it?) One thing I can't seem to figure out is how to attach the hand plates to the gloves. Glue? Velcro? Sew them on somehow?


It depends on what kind of gloves and handguards you're using.  You're building for ANH, so you don't have the option to sew them on.

If you're using rubber gloves and flexible handguards, then you'll want to glue those on.  I prefer trooping with my rubber gloves and wear silk liners underneath them.  For me, this is a super comfy way to troop!  Others don't like it as much and choose the cloth/Nomex option.

If you're using cloth or Nomex gloves with the hard plastic handguards, then you can simply glue a few elastic loops to the handguard (using E-6000).  You slide your gloved hand into it so the handguard stays fixed to the back of your hand.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You’ve already gotten some good advice. Just want to say looking good your almost there. Let’s get this done and approved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can also just use the abs hand plates and glue a loop of elastic to them, then the just slip on over your gloves, but this is for basic approval.

 

I prefer rubber gloves with the thin liner gloves inside, really handy for hot troops, can swap out the liner gloves a few times throughout the event and have nice dry hands. Rubber gloves also fill up an openings in the front of your forearms ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, ukswrath said:

So looking at your photos you could use a few adjustments if you're up for it. Besides reducing and tightening the gaps between sections here's a few more areas that need attention. 

 

Thighs are disproportionate to the calves, they're too large and could stand to be reduced. Also, the cover strips are supposed to stop at the lower return edge, not cover it. They're also supposed to cover any gaps between the halves, notably at the top. 

 

Shins - The sniper knee is too off center and positioned at a awkward angle, it could stand to be centered and more verticle. Lastly I don't see any cover strips on the back of your calves, are you still working on these?

 

How are your biceps coming? I noticed in an earlier post they looked to be assembled with "overlap" construction instead of the correct "butt and strip" like the other areas.

 

Anyway, just a few things to be aware of. Keep up the good work. :jc_doublethumbup:

I’ll work on those thighs more, they’re difficult. The knee plate was a bit of a challenge to get on but I could tell it needed a bit of a fix. The backs of my shins do not have any cover strips, just Velcro holding them together, where would I put the cover strip there? My biceps are halfway done, one side still needs to be cover stripped, the other is good. Thanks for this!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Cricket said:

Good job getting the images in your post!  :)  Much easier for all of us to evaluate things to help you.

You've got a lot of adjustments that need to be made on your kit, but you mentioned that it's a rough draft, soooo...

There are two things that jump out at me right off the bat: thighs and shins.

Thighs: they can still be sized down quite a bit to fit the circumference of your leg.   Typically, you can fit about two fingers width in the top of the thigh.  More than that, and they're too large.  More than that, though, is that they will feel too big, like a pair of loose cargo shorts, and they will rattle around quite loudly.  I like to think of thighs fitting more like a pair of well-fitting jeans.  Not too loose, but not too snug, either.  

Screen reference, and look at how close the tops of the thighs fit on these troopers.

gallery_12157_11_319688.jpg

Second thing are the shins:  In the photos, the shins look like they were cut at a really severe angle.  Could we see some more detail on those?  Also, the shins are riding up too high.  They should fit snug well on top of the boot and stay there.

Screen reference for the shin placement on the boots:
gallery_12157_11_653630.jpg

Have you had a good read through one of Ukswrath's amazing armor build threads?  Man, it was my go-to when I was building my first kit, even though the armor makers were different.  I've even referred back to it for my 4th TK build (currently in progress, but almost done!).  :) 
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-build/

 

Those thighs were the biggest issues, sizing them down should help a good bit. The problem with the shins not resting on my boots is that my boots are too large, I’ll have to make some kind of modification in order to have the shins cover them entirely. And I’ll look into that build thread! I’m sure it’s very useful! Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Cricket said:


It depends on what kind of gloves and handguards you're using.  You're building for ANH, so you don't have the option to sew them on.

If you're using rubber gloves and flexible handguards, then you'll want to glue those on.  I prefer trooping with my rubber gloves and wear silk liners underneath them.  For me, this is a super comfy way to troop!  Others don't like it as much and choose the cloth/Nomex option.

If you're using cloth or Nomex gloves with the hard plastic handguards, then you can simply glue a few elastic loops to the handguard (using E-6000).  You slide your gloved hand into it so the handguard stays fixed to the back of your hand.  

Elastic loop sounds like the way to go for plastic hand guards, I’ll do that until I get some rubber ones!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
54 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:

You can also just use the abs hand plates and glue a loop of elastic to them, then the just slip on over your gloves, but this is for basic approval.

 

I prefer rubber gloves with the thin liner gloves inside, really handy for hot troops, can swap out the liner gloves a few times throughout the event and have nice dry hands. Rubber gloves also fill up an openings in the front of your forearms ;) 

I’m working on getting rubber gloves, hopefully will have those soon!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I had a question about the thermal detonator. There’s plenty of talk about the clips for it, but what is the cylinder actually made of and where do I get it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...