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simorph

Simes' ANH E11 Build (Doopy Doos + Tino kit)

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So I'm getting ready for app on my TK (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46398-simes-anh-tk-build/)

 

And now it's time to start my build.  I've got a Doopy Doos kit and one of Tino's finishing kit full of tiny screws and many goodies.

 

I decided to make a start on the receiver and stock (convinced that at some point, I'll accidentally snap one of those stock arms off en route)

 

Got it this far - currently filing out the little section under the stock that contains the inner latch (my plan to completely clear it out and then put the latch back in)

 

g9jd4bx.jpg

 

Since I have a 3D printer, I modelled the little block that goes between the arms and printed it out in PLA (I'll upload any bits that I make to Thingiverse for other folks to use/adapt once I'm done)

 

58RMWrO.jpg

 

FuD0BJ9.jpg

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Ah, he finally did it. ;) Great to see your build thread here, Simon.

 

That is some serious progress right at the start. Hollowing the inside of the folding stock is not an easy task. Well done! And the first 3 aluminum pieces are installed. :duim:

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Folding stock screws

 

R8KdoH2.jpg

 

Keyhole filed out

 

P00Oj6z.jpg

 

Latch added in - gave it a go with Milliput, then gave up and instead 3D modelled something based off what I could see in the Sterling reference

 

Super-easy to glue in with a bit of superglue (as I said earlier, I'll share up all these little greeblies on Thingiverse when I'm done)

 

XBO04jj.jpg

 

So, I need to do more digging out of the front stock, fill in the pipe behind the keyhole and put in a bolt to stand in for the latch, tidy up the fake bolts

 

And then, I think, it's onto the Ejection Port and the Clearing Strip...and more dust! 

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Nice progress. :-)

I do like s good DD/Completion kit E-11 build.

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Another update:

 

Finished off the front of the stock:

eHgldEB.jpg

 

Modded the ejection port:

 

EpEgxHy.jpg

 

Bayonet lug + new screws:

 

CfLiiNF.jpg

 

And scratchbuilt all the parts I fear might snap off using small pieces of aluminium:

 

DuMFvZh.jpg

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, simorph said:

(...)   And scratchbuilt all the parts I fear might snap off using small pieces of aluminium:

DuMFvZh.jpg

WOW! :shok::jc_doublethumbup: This must have taken a while and some serious efforts to bring these up. Very nice.

That selector lever and the front sight pin are stunning. :D

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Thanks!

 

Actually, it wasn't that hard - maybe 2 hours, tops! (And I've never done this before, but all the work I've done with wood and plastic helped me a great deal)

 

For the trigger, I bought a small chunk of aluminium the thickness of the trigger, traced around it and made efficient cuts with a hacksaw to slice the metal away from the shape.  Then I went in with a rough and smooth file (both with curved/flat sides) to finish off the shaping, and then went over it with some fine emery paper.

 

For the trigger guard - that was a strip of aluminium that I bent in my vice - I laid the strip on the resin trigger guard and then drew a line where the aluminium strip deviated from the guard - I then put the aluminium strip in the vice, bent it a little, laid it back on top of the resin guard and then bent it more, or drew a new line where the aluminium and resin didn't line up - I did take this extra-careful because I knew I'd never be able to bend anything back on itself if I went too far.

 

For the selector switch, I traced the resin one, cut it with a hacksaw and rounded off the ends with files - for the knurling, I put the end in my vice between two course files and tightened the vice until I couldn't tighten it any more = boom! real knurling!  For the body of the selector switch - that's a piece of aluminium tubing I cut to the right height and then cut a 2mm slot in to slide the switch lever in, then I glued a washer to the bottom and packed out the rest of everything with plumbers resin (one of those two-part resin putties that has aluminium in it)

 

For the sight - I just took the offcuts from the stock screws in your kit, and just filed them following the blueprints in the document you guys put together - the pair of digital calipers I use for my 3D printing came in super-handy!

 

Thanks again though - I hated metalwork as a kid...but then again, they never let me build Star Wars blasters or nothing... ;)

 

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And now, the trigger, trigger guard and selector switch are locked in.  Used some nice two-part epoxy that's reinforced with aluminium, and modelled in some remaining details with green stuff.  Decided to make everything static in the end - ultimately this is more about being a robust trooping blaster for me than having the functionality (if I wanted that, I think I might have done a Hasbro conversion.)

 

boLNVuY.jpg

 

And installed the pegs for ultimately attaching to the receiver...

 

vSNAzpi.jpg

 

That's the grip kinda sorted (although if I find a dome nut, I'll swap that in beside the selector switch) 

 

Time to ponder which component to tackle next over the weekend.

 

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Busy Saturday afternoon....

 

Decided to 3D model and print the sight block (again, I'll post these 3D bits to Thingiverse when I'm done)

aJReBTa.jpg

 

Installing the sight

 

iaHGS9i.jpg

 

SZF0xVG.jpg

 

bvzDfP9.jpg

 

TylZmAs.jpg

 

Magazine installed...

 

9toCHWZ.jpg

 

Starting to look like something at last...

 

8RWiJ5I.jpg

 

Maybe it's the spring and inner gubbins next...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Super! These mods look great! Keep up the great work!

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Dovetail mod and knurling pattern on the front sight cage. :peace: Together with your front sight pin and the small grub screw, you have taken this section of your blaster to the limit. By the way, your build seems to run smooth and pretty fast. Keep the updates coming...

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So, I had a busy weekend....

 

Scope screws....

dd2Rf5L.jpg

 

I used a stepper drill bit (much easier to use for controlled drilling of big holes than those massive, scary spade bits!) to drill as deep as I could through the scope and decided not to try and risk drill all the way through

 

But everything's now opened up enough so I can drop in all the lenses from Tino's kit and create a nice illusion of depth

 

XF8ZH4v.jpg

 

End cap....

 

8TM6QaD.jpg

 

Scratchbuilt inner bolt which is going to be fun, squeezing back down that interior once it's all painted up

 

YQgJJE6.jpg

 

Rear sight, plus underside catch - decided to make that non-functioning, but trimmed it all down to fit within the aluminium u-channel

 

vTdGdmI.jpg

 

Power cylinder bolts (boy, those were sooo fiddly!)

 

mzd0SlF.jpg

 

Capacitors...

FiSNKUE.jpg

 

So here's everything so far...

 

Big things to do:

 

1. Cut the scope rail + counter bracket

2. Finish off power cylinders

 

And then it's the puzzle of priming, painting and assembly

 

th23dPM.jpg

 

...and I just discovered that I'd put the front flash shield on the wrong way around....thankfully I managed to easily unseat it, flip it and reattach.

 

PHEW!

 

 

Edited by simorph
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Honestly, I love following this build. Not only because the updates are coming on an almost regular basis, but also because of the precise way each item is installed.

Seems like somebody is eager to indeed use EVERY item from his completion set, he?! B) That is how it should be. :duim:

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Pretty much!  Thanks.  You did all the hard work in sourcing these parts, so I feel it's essential to use them!

 

I think so far, I've just bailed on the selector switch and instead of putting the monocular into the sight, dismantled the monocular for its lenses.

 

Since posting this morning, I've realised that my inner bolt is slightly off - so I've taken the diagonal strip off and I'm going to fashion that onto a second, rectangular block as you've done in your build.

 

Just ordered a bit of 1.5mm aluminium so I can build the power cylinder plate in one, robust unit (using these plans) - seems easier than trying to sand out the original capacitors.

Plus, I want to scratch build the missing mag clip too.

 

 

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Sounds like a plan, Simon.

 

Regarding the power cylinders, here is a link to Andy's (PlayfulWolfCub) research thread. He went into this topic like no one else before. Not sure if you knew this PDF.

 

Regarding the monocular, here is a link to 'Update #24' of my Lucky#Eleven build, how to best install the lenses AND the reticle lens. Maybe it is of any help.

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Thank you!

 

So, I realised I could 3D print the bolt insert, so I took measurements from Tino's photos and my blaster and quickly constructed a little block that matched the curve of the inner pipe and section of the ejector port.

 

SY7W4yv.jpg

 

I decided to make the small angular strip separate and out of the same plastic as the strip in the ejector port so hopefully, with a little fiddling and fudging, I can make it look like an extension of the same part...

 

045p2fj.jpg

 

Awaiting delivery of my aluminum for the power cylinder base and itching to finish these parts off!

 

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So I did some metal work...

 

A little aluminium latch for the magazine

Q5lxEer.jpg

 

5s9C6qY.jpg

 

Also, I finally cut the scope rail and created an aluminium plate for the power cylinders, 3D printed some more accurate-looking capacitors than I can hand-model with green stuff and rod.

 

The plate, I found a great little template on the forum (link below), but am eyeballing all the rest of the measurements from the Doopy's resin part, since (having spent days pouring over the various research threads and guides here) I can't find any actual definitive 'agreed' dimensions for the power cylinders.  (I know there's no absolute screen accurate dimensions - they're all best guesses, but there's not a thread or guide that I've found that actually states what they are/should be - thankfully the template for the bottom plate matches the Doopy's one, so I'm happy with that.)

 

 

 

4Rt02Y7.jpg

 

 

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Did you get a chance to read this, Simon?  Quite informative:  https://www.dropbox.com/s/s53lnuh9rq5xe7a/E11 Power Cylinders Analysis.pdf

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Oh, yes. Fascinating stuff and really helpful. But, a little thin on the ground r.e. estimates of dimensions. But thanks!

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Great work so far!

Happy to see that more blaster builds are coming up with mods ! :-)


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So, I finally put together my power cylinders - pleased with the results - not absolutely super-perfectly accurate, but closer than the Doopy's standard resin kit versions and cleaner and sharper...

 

3D-printed capacitors - small snips of staple wire glued in place for the connection wires

 

3D-printed end caps (couldn't find anything in the workshop or online that I could easily adapt to get more accuracy), a bit of aluminium tubing inside the brass tubing for the 'cores'

VjnJ51C.jpg

 

Kept the red wiring super-simple as per Tino's guide - too fiddly to try and make it 1000% accurate

Used offcuts of brass tubing for the resistors, filled the ends with super glue and sanded them flat

 

2llvRnP.jpg

 

da94nEr.jpg

 

Fi3K9Wv.jpg

 

LSiOW3Y.jpg

 

Then it was time to drill and test-fit the scope rail and see how everything lines up:

 

1zXmiNo.jpg

 

anXqq1X.jpg

 

AimqDYW.jpg

 

O9t1r5V.jpg

 

 

Determined to make sure I stay patient and layer up the paint over the next few days, so here's everything hit with a coat of filler primer.

Tomorrow, a coat of grey primer, then wait a day, then it's silver, then two days for that to degass, etc., etc...

 

2WjAy6S.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Looks brilliant!

Now, the best part of the build is coming up :-)...

Enjoy...


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So I painted the scope brass...

7jaHOpz.jpg

And silver for the receiver and other parts...

4zEfW4x.jpg

And I waited a good 48 hours before hitting things with the matt black top coat (Plastikote)...

 

...which came out GLOSS!

s0iuKvD.jpg

 

The most by-the-book, tested everything with everything, preshaken and warmed the cans paint job...and the Matt Black Paint came out gloss...

 

So I left it a day, hit it with another brand of Matt Black paint on top (Hycote) - which came out matt black...

 

...but crazed the paint in several random spots!

 

So I waited another day...sanded back the 'orange peel', and hit it again with Hycote Matt Black...

 

...which fixed it on the receiver.

 

I then got some Rustoleum Matt Clear Spray, hit everything else with that - nothing reacted and the finish went from Gloss to Matt...

 

PHEW!

 

Weird - I've used all these combos of paints on other props, but never had a Matt Black cure as gloss or, had a reaction like that...

 

Maybe, all I can put it down to was maybe a little bit of grease when handling (I use blue gloves the majority of the time, but will have handled the receiver with bare hands at some point.

 

Anyways, after all that faff and rescue work, I got it finished.  I've decided to let it wear and weather naturally. 

 

Other notes:

 

A bit of fake muck/oil washed onto the eject port to bring the pure silver of the paint down

A little white into the lettering on the scope

Painted the gloss part of the handle properly gloss black, with several layers of a proper gloss black paint

Painted the T tracks with some Plasticote black - that gives them a rubberised feel, although there isn't much of a noticeable difference in reflectivity in photos - but it is noticeable when handling the blaster

 

Here's the pics:

 

geSlWU2.jpg#

 

hApN9M6.jpg

 

xFr0u4c.jpg

 

msEaTOo.jpg

 

FoykUO0.jpg

 

 

cHinEBZ.jpg

 

toHxPg4.jpg

 

Thanks everyone for all the help!  Now to get some app pics sorted!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Congratulations Simon on getting this beautyful blaster done in such a short time. Photos do look great. There is just one little thing to mention: your charging handle seems to be installed front to back. The photos above are taken in an angle, which makes it hard to see, but I noticed that on the side-views in your EIB and Centurion apps.

Keeping fingers crossed for an easy fix (hopefully)...

And good luck for level 2 and 3. ;)

Edited by T-Jay
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Dammit!  That was a good spot.  You know - I know which way around that piece should be.  I've studied the ref a gazillion times.  I swore it was the correct way round when I read your post on my phone...

 

But it wasn't!

 

For some insane reason, I had indeed glued it totally the wrong way around.

 

 

Pleased to say I did a great job of fixing it in, making it completely robust.

 

Which meant, that to get it out it snapped into multiple pieces and I had to drill the rest away to get the fixing bolt out.

 

NIMG50y.jpg

 

Time to source a new one/scratchbuild a new one from aluminium.

 

Thanks...I think...:huh:

 

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