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Billhag

HOWTO: Make a Metal Scope Rail & Counter Bracket

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Whenever anyone starts a resin kit build and they ask for a bit of advice regarding
the best way to put it together, I always throw in my 02 cents regarding replacing the
the plastic scope rail with a nice new metal one.
I've posted up a few picks and description on a few other posts but I thought it might
be nice to have them in just one place so that folks can refer to them easier.

Anyone who as made one of these kits know how bad these can sometimes be

Plasticscoperail.jpg

So here go's!!.

Tools
If you have a fully kitted out work shop, Fantastic!. But if you're like me and can just about find
a screw driver in the house when you need it, then fear not. I've made loads of these with just an
hammer, hack saw, and my trusty file

2705842257_08a57654ba_z.jpg

Materials
You can pick up metal strips in 1 Mtr lengths in various thicknesses and widths from most hardware stores. Some hobby shops also sell the strips in brass, mild steel, aluminium in
1 foot lengths.

2706660644_e2640822ce_z.jpg

Bash & Bend it
So now you have to make the bloody thing. huh.gif
The best thing to do is to use the plastic one as a template and score the metal with all the measurements. But if you've already thrown it out the window here's some measurements
that may help

ScopeRailDims02.jpg

If you've got a vise, brilliant!!, pop the strip in and hammer a right angle where the front of the
rail starts. If you haven't got a vise?...no problem!!...open your front door....walk up to the
roadside place the strip on the kerb....and proceed to bash the Granny out of it!!!. biggrin.gif
Warning!,...for some reason, neighbours and passer-by's do not understand the concept of making a scope rail for an E11 blaster no matter how much you try to explain it to them.
So its easier to just tell them that you're making a prototype golf club which will revolutionise
the sport and probably make you a millionaire in the process....they seem quite happy with that. rolleyes.gif

Scoperailbend1.jpg
Scoperailbend2.jpg

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Now that you've got the right angle bend you can start to cut the front.
There's a few ways you can go with this, but here's a couple that I use on SMG's and kits.
You can either cut it with 'V's and a centre post so that it sits it to a vent hole and matches the
contour of vent casing or straight across if you are going to glue it in to a slot (remember to add
a few mm's so it stays level with the back when its seated in the slot)
Next, you can cut the back so that it fits nice and snug between the sides of the rear sight.
You can put a little bend in at the back of the rail to add a bit of detail or just leave it straight.


DSCF0103.jpg


Now all that's left is to drill a couple of centred holes to mount your scope and decide
which screws or bolts to use. You can pick up Hex / Socket screws in various sizes from
hardware or auto shops that will do the job nicely and look good. Or just use some domed
head wood screws with a washer.

Screws.jpg
Screws3.jpg2705842119_b7386dcd95_z.jpg
DSCF0068.jpg
2687245988_94a736e8e8_z.jpg
DSCF0089.jpg
2687246742_637e687b20_z.jpg


And that's it. There are a few other ways and variations like using 'L' shape base footings,
or angled hook-type post for the front but I think you can get the main idea and you can
always play around with it to suit the blaster that you happen to be building. cool.gif

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Counter Bracket

OK, Now here's the counter bracket.
I must have seen at least 10 different ways and styles of making a bracket for the counter
to sit suspended from the scope rail. After looking at loads and loads of photos of where
I thought the counter looked best this is the one I've gone with.
It works fine for both a real 'Hengstler' and resin copies, just remember to use the appropriate
screws for what you have.

Counterbracket4.jpg

Materials
You can use a either a flat sheet of thin metal and mark out an off centred 'T' and bend it at a right angle for the counter fixing.
Or you can use some 400mm 'L' shaped aluminium and cut off the access were needed.

CounterBracketLshapedally.jpg

When you're drilling the holes for the scope rail side, I've found its best to hold it in position
under the rail and centre it, then mark off the position of where to drill on the bracket through
the scope mount holes. That way they will marry up nicely (the one pictured as elongated holes
for different types of scopes and rails that I use) rolleyes.gif

Myscoperail2.jpg
2706659958_c6f5458b09_z.jpg2705841989_9139de2c48_z.jpg
DSCF0071.jpg
BillsBlasterddsMk11.jpg
BillhagBlaster-Countercutout1.jpg

And that's it, nice and simple. smile.gif
I hope they are of some help to anyone who may be thinking about making one.
smile.gif

*NOTE*
Fixed all photo links where possible

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Thats almost identical to the way I have them setup on my CS blasters. I paint that assembly separate from the gun.

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Billy, thanks for posting this up. I am going to be picking up a makersofthings resin E-11 in the next few weeks and this will be very informative!

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You do some great work! Thanks so very much for posting the tutorial - I'll have to replace my rail using your method.

 

Kev

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Again,tutorial Bill :D

 

Anyway,which screws are best for Resin counters and scopes? And will i need to predrill a hole for them?

 

Cheers

 

Lee

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Again,tutorial Bill :D

 

Anyway,which screws are best for Resin counters and scopes? And will i need to predrill a hole for them?

 

Cheers

 

Lee

 

 

Lee

If you don't ask, you don't find out mate :D

For resin counters and scopes you should always drill a pilot hole just a wee bit smaller than the

width of the screw that your using other wise you'll run the risk of it splitting :angry:

Most screws will work as they cut their own thred as you screw them in.

Stay away from electrical srews as the thred is normally pretty tight,wood screws, self tappers

anything like that should be OK.

I like to use 'Cross Head' or Hex / Socket screws where I can.They look good and work well on

resin and real scopes and counters.As I said, you can pick these up from hardware stores or auto

shops (in the UK I get mine in Halfords) in multi packs or loose.

 

Screws3.jpg

Screws2.jpg

Screws6.jpg

 

Ask your tool guy in worrk, he'll propably have a few likely candidates hanging around, I bet :)

 

 

 

Billhag, what was the thickness of the metal you used?

William (what a fantastic and fine upstanding name that is :D )

For the resin kits I normally use 1-2 mm because its REEEEL easy to bend and work with :)

(especially the aluminum stock)

For a chunkier look for trooping or on Sterlings I use 4-5 mm, but remember the thicker you go

the harder it is to get a good right angle.So what you need to do with the thick stuff is cut a

little groove / slot in the back of where you want the bend to be and this lets you bring the bend in tighter :)

Railgroove.jpg

 

 

Thank you everyone for your fantastic comments.I just hope it helps a few of yous guys out B)

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Sorry to revive an old thread but as it's very useful info it probably deserves a bump.

 

I wonder though, what affixes the scope rail at the front of the blaster.

At the rear it's screwed/riveted into the tube or the rear site but what about at the front?

All the pics show a bend with a piece going straight down into one of the suppressor holes in the barrel but what keeps it from pulling straight up and out of the hole?

Is there a 90-degree bend at the end of that bend that points back toward the rear (inside the barrel) or is it just epoxied?

 

Thanks

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Greg

No problem reviving an old thred mate, if you don't ask you'll never know :)

What you have to remember is that this tutorial was for a replacement for

a scope rail on a resin blaster. For a scratch build PVC or a real Sterling

you may want to go about the front of the rail in a different way, that

could be either a 'L' shaped base with a screw or the centre peg of the 'V'

angled towards the front that just slots in to the vent hole like this :)

 

normal_IMG_0215.jpg

 

normal_IMG_0210.jpg

 

Scopebend31.jpg

 

Hope this helps mate :)

Edited by Billhag

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WHY DIDN'T I FIND THIS THREAD YESTERDAY!? I seriously just cut mine out of a sheet of aluminum, took me FOREVER to get 100% parallel. Screw it, I'm starting over, your way.

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WOW, so glad to have this little puppy by my side. Just when I was getting all frustrated this link came my way and made my day.

 

Now, its off to the craft and hardware stores to locate the steel.

 

Top man Bill, you're a star!!! B)

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Well, after staring at it for only 1-hour I decided that there's got to be a dimension wrong on that Counter Bracket drawing.

:lol:

 

I tried to follow the general shape of the piece rather than the exact dimensions but for future generations..... is it 2.5cm and not-to-scale or is it really 4.5cm?

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Well, after staring at it for only 1-hour I decided that there's got to be a dimension wrong on that Counter Bracket drawing.

:lol:

 

I tried to follow the general shape of the piece rather than the exact dimensions but for future generations..... is it 2.5cm and not-to-scale or is it really 4.5cm?

 

 

:D Greg

Here ya go mate.... and " for future generations...." here's a few shots with a rather accurate

tape measure :D

 

 

ScopeRail1.jpg

 

ScopeRail2.jpg

 

 

Hope this helps :)

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The actual tutorial part of this thread seems be missing (ie Bills original posts).

Such a shame as I was looking forward to getting started on this.

 

Is there any way of getting the original content back?

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:o WOW!!...2008!! I first posted this up...how time flys when you're having fun :)

I've lost count at the amount of blasters that I've built, pimped up and generally

messed around with since then.

Any hoooo :rolleyes: . my apologies resurrecting a 'thread-from-the-dead' but I've had

a good few people ask me how I made a simple little brackets for them to mount their

counters so I thought that I'd tuck it in here as it kindaa fits with the other little tips.

Nothing big or special, just a handy little way to solve a problem a few folks might be having.

 

Hope it helps :D

 

 

Covemoldcountermount01.jpg

 

 

 

:)

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