Lord_Potato's Walt's Trooper Factory ANH TK Build (COMPLETE)

[troopermaster]

Just line up the inside of the knee plate tab like you have done with the outside tab,. Even thought the knee plate will be slightly lopsided. it's totally fine. It's one of those trooper quirks

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Finally got low profile velcro and put them on both shins.

 

So I am currently trying to get the sniper plate on. It seems for Walts armor, it is impossible to have the sniper plate sit perfectly straight at the front if both sides are aligned. So I am focusing on the side ridge alignment:

 

Too much glue was used LOL

 

I know there are gaps in this area....but mine feel a little extra big:

 

I am using clamps to try and hold them down but I have a feeling the sides of the sniper plate will spring back up:

 

Worst case scenario I can rip this thing off and re-glue if anyone has anything to point out. 

 

 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

On 8/26/2019 at 5:10 PM, troopermaster said:

Just line up the inside of the knee plate tab like you have done with the outside tab,. Even thought the knee plate will be slightly lopsided. it's totally fine. It's one of those trooper quirks

Thank you for your help

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

On 8/26/2019 at 4:54 PM, TKSpartan said:

Sniper Knee alginment looks just right  and about the velcro, I found Heavy duty velcro at amazon.  

 

cheers

Thanks for your input! and I ended up getting low profile velcro on amazon

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Sniper plate did not hold onto shin. Before I try re gluing, I am trying to see what I can do to provide a better fit so it has a better chance of holding. I think sanding down the very bottom part of the front of the sniper plate will help remove some of the "gap". 

 

Also, I previously water bathed the sniper plate to try and make its sides set naturally closer to the side ridges of the shin. 

 

I am going to snoop around some builds and see if I can get any more info about sniper plates. 

[TheSwede[TK]]

3 minutes ago, Lord_Potato said:

I think sanding down the very bottom part of the front of the sniper plate

Yeah remove all lower return edge

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

17 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Yeah remove all lower return edge

Okay, so just to be clear, remove all return edge at the bottom and not just the front part like I drew out on my last post? 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Either is fine, I actually just cut a notch out in that front section so it helps sit central on the cover strip when it's drying.

 

I found using some E6000 just behind the front of the plate and also on the ends, I did rough both areas with a little course sandpaper first to allow some more adhesion. 

 

You really need some pressure to hold those back corners, many don't like stay there while drying, also wrapping painters tape tightly around can help hold in place. I usually use 6 or more clamps as well. 

 

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

13 hours ago, Lord_Potato said:

Okay, so just to be clear, remove all return edge at the bottom and not just the front part like I drew out on my last post? 

That’s correct. You can do as Q suggested as well. Removing all is screen accurate (in most cases as they didn’t seem too particular in getting everything down to point) and it helps when forcing the Sniper knee into submission.

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

So I pretty much removed the return edge at the very front part and wanted to see how it all fit before I removed the entire bottom return edge. I think it turned out okay. Yes the bottom sides have a bit of a return edge but i like the fact that they are helping close up the gap. Its only E6000 so I can always mess with it again

 

 

 

 

Most of the gap is gone now

 

 

Here is how the legs look all put together:

 

 

Besides a strapping system on the thighs, the legs are done

 

 

Edited September 8, 2019 by Lord_Potato

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

I am going to do biceps next but I decided to try and get part of the thermal detonator out of the way. Found this to use as a reference:

 

So far trying to cut just a smidge over 3/4 of an inch to account for sanding.

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

On 9/3/2019 at 6:49 AM, TheSwede said:

That’s correct. You can do as Q suggested as well. Removing all is screen accurate (in most cases as they didn’t seem too particular in getting everything down to point) and it helps when forcing the Sniper knee into submission.

Thanks again for your advice. I seriously appreciate the help.

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

On 9/2/2019 at 7:26 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Either is fine, I actually just cut a notch out in that front section so it helps sit central on the cover strip when it's drying.

 

I found using some E6000 just behind the front of the plate and also on the ends, I did rough both areas with a little course sandpaper first to allow some more adhesion. 

 

You really need some pressure to hold those back corners, many don't like stay there while drying, also wrapping painters tape tightly around can help hold in place. I usually use 6 or more clamps as well. 

 

 

Thank you for all your tips. You along with the others giving advice and inputs is giving me lots of help and confidence. 

[TheSwede[TK]]

Sniper knee and legs came out great

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great work, looking good

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

On 8/26/2019 at 5:10 PM, troopermaster said:

Just line up the inside of the knee plate tab like you have done with the outside tab,. Even thought the knee plate will be slightly lopsided. it's totally fine. It's one of those trooper quirks

Thank you for all your inputs. Lots of you guys are really helping me out. 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Ordered the Centurion kit and flexible hand guards from justjoseph. 

I am still going to cut out the plastic hand guards and use them with cloth gloves. But since I am shooting for centurion I want to make sure I have the rubber gloves and flexible hand guard set as well. 

 

I am trying to a good black rubber glove brand/style to use. The rubber gloves that came with my RS were way too big. If anyone likes a particular glove, feel free to let me know the brand  

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Made a little progress on my thermal detonator. I wished they kit came with gray plastic pipe. My RS has grey plastic and its nice to worry about it not chipping. I spent some time trying to find some 2 inch gray pipe. The only one I was able to find was at home depot but the grey seemed way too light. So i sucked it up and decided to paint the pipe.

 

 

Side by side comparison between my WTF and RS detonators:

 

 

I am very thankful that one of the people in my garrison who has experience with metal work offered to make my detonator clips. They are done and I will probably receive them when we run into each other during upcoming troops. 

 

The CRL does not state what kind of grey, so I eyeballed the closest paint can to my RS. I picked the rustoleum brand due to the fact that it states that their paint formula adheres to plastic very well. I also got a clear coat to help protect the paint from scratches.

 

As soon as it dries I can start adding the clear coat.

 

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I must admit I use a grey primer and clear coats over the top, I don't think I've had any scratching or chips so far so I'm sure you'll be fine  

 

Try to get as little to no gap between the clips and end caps, for L2: Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.

 

 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

I must admit I use a grey primer and clear coats over the top, I don't think I've had any scratching or chips so far so I'm sure you'll be fine  
 
Try to get as little to no gap between the clips and end caps, for L2: Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps.
 
 

Many thanks! Good to know that you haven't had any issues with the paint on your detonator. Once I receive my metal clips I'll be sure to position them as you say. The person who made my clips has some screen accurate TD screws. But just to be safe the centurion kit from JustJoseph I ordered comes with TD screws as well.



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[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Sprayed 3 coats of gray paint and 3 coats of clear coat and received my detonator clips:

 

Before I glue the faceplate I intend to mark where the bottom will go and align the TD clips to the line and make sure the outboard sides touch the edge and was reminded by Gmrhodes13. Once I screw the clips in place I will glue the faceplate on. I tend to procrastinate when it comes to things I have not done before. 

 

 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Veering away from the detonator for a bit........

 

Did some research on the threads about screen accurate gloves. Found an informative thread stating that black marigold cleaning gloves were used on the original screen used outfits (credit to Troopermaster) the palms and finger nail area have a texture to it. I found some gloves that look very similar to the marigold gloves (including texture on the palm and finger nail area) but alas they felt too roomy for me and most gloves I have found come in  medium  or bigger size.

 

I decided to do more searching and ordered these bad boys online. They are a little smaller  and the texture in the palm is a little different. There is also no texture on the finger nail area but it fits me better and I like it:

 

THUMBS UP!!!

 

Also got glove liners.....I tend to sweat a bit more than the average human....so this is a must as per the forums.

Gloves still fit while wearing the liners. 

 

As soon as a get my flexible hand guards I can glue them on.

Edited September 24, 2019 by Lord_Potato

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

Did my best to drill my holes as close as possible to the reference photo of an original screen used detonator:

I think it is pretty close.

 

So with having screen accurate screws and the holes drilled on the clips I proceeded to glue the face plate on the PVC pipe. But unfortunately, I put too much glue on the face plate and it oozed out and when I wiped away the glue it started to wipe off the gray paint! 3 layer of gray paint and 3 layers of clear protective coat started to wipe away.

 

I am pretty darn frustrated at myself and I don't know the best way to remedy the situation. I was thinking about just getting a new piece of PVC pipe from home depot or get lots of sandpaper and evenly sand down the clear coat and most of the paint and re spray paint the PVC.  I'll figure out something....

 

Research on the forums point out that hovi mich tips were painted with a black satin black. I gently sprayed a couple of layers of krylon black satin on my tips. They are almost done. Just going to let them fry over night and reinspect them.

 

 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

It's been a busy couple of weeks but I am finally able to continue where I left off. 

 

 

Wrapped up the thermal detonator.

 

And the hovi mic tips:

 

 

[Lord_Potato[TK]]

I am doing my drop boxes and I have a feeling I don't have the correct sizes. There should be two larger rectangle pieces and two slightly smaller pieces that fit inside those rectangles. I was looking at other WTF builds, especially at "W.T.F. ANH Stunt build WIP" by MoSc0ut. Other WTF builds have a clear size that is bigger and one smaller. Here are some photos:

 

I was hoping If I can get some ideas on how to proceed......Should I try and just pick two of the rectangles and sand all the sides until it will eventually fit in or should I try and order some replacement drop boxes? 

 

Edited October 15, 2019 by Lord_Potato