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Painting the inside of my Helmet


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I used the Plasti-dip spray. I had used the Plasti-dip liquid for years and did not (at the time) even know about the spray.  I seperated my helmet into the face plate and the bucket itself, masked off holes to prevent over spray, and put a couple of coats on.  It cuts down on internal light, reflections on my lenses, noise, rattle, and insulates. I am quite pleased I did it and do recommend it to those I help.

Edited by Shanester
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I used Rustoleum 2x in glossy black.  I did this before the helmet was fully assembled, and taped off the edges and eyes with green frog tape.  I used a bit of Play Doh on the outside of the teeth to keep over spray from there (not needed if teeth aren't already cut out).

 

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Use more tape than that, though, I had over spray.  But mineral spirits took it right off.

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Definitely easier to do this while the helmet is in pieces, plus it will take time for the paint or plasti dip to de-gas and the odor to reduce and fade away, so best to do this when you know you wont be trooping for a while.

 

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8 hours ago, Helmshandcrafted said:

This makes me anxious lol 

Just take your time, ask questions, and post pictures of your progress to get more advice. There is a lot of good advice given here in this thread on how to paint the inside of your helmet. You can do it. :) 

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I find it easier to paint before trimming, less to mask, just mask the edges, I still add newspaper to the outside to make sure no overspray gets on the outside of the helmet, then I use a quick drying sating black, works great, dries quickly and doesn't reflect any light from outside.

 

Really not that hard ;) 

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I will add, the beauty of using Plasti dip Spray is you can actually and quite easily peel it off if you did manage to get a slight over spray.

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Some folks add cheese cloth with the plastidip too for some texture/weight.  Either way make sure you let it fume out a bit for a few days before putting it on... that stuff is smelly at first!

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  • 1 month later...
I used the Plasti-dip spray. I had used the Plasti-dip liquid for years and did not (at the time) even know about the spray.  I seperated my helmet into the face plate and the bucket itself, masked off holes to prevent over spray, and put a couple of coats on.  It cuts down on internal light, reflections on my lenses, noise, rattle, and insulates. I am quite pleased I did it and do recommend it to those I help.

Do you have to prep surface before spraying? Like light sandpaper?


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Do you have to prep surface before spraying? Like light sandpaper?


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I didn’t do it to my AM helmet but I assume a real light scuff wouldn’t hurt if you wanted to. I used the brush on and it stuck very well.


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4 hours ago, mjrose927 said:

Do you have to prep surface before spraying? Like light sandpaper?

I first washed mine with soapy water then gave a light rub with some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper, it will help paint adhere.

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So my helmet was a resin cast/fiberglass, but I'd also echo it's easier to do a basic sand to at most around 600 grit (don't want it too smooth that spray doesn't stick, then some plastidip does a great job at not only making it dark, but making it feel more sturdy like a real helmet.

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With plastidip you just have to clean the surface, works like charm:duim:

I put on one layer but it is not smooth. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? There are pin size dots of white where plasticity did not cling to on first coat. ab38caa5523a99a696f5b282c46f898b.jpg


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15 minutes ago, mjrose927 said:


I put on one layer but it is not smooth. Is this normal or did I do something wrong? There are pin size dots of white where plasticity did not cling to on first coat. ab38caa5523a99a696f5b282c46f898b.jpg


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#1 Clean the surface

#2 Apply the plastdip in thin coats - don´t go for full coverage at first coat, build it up.

:salute:

 

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#1 Clean the surface
#2 Apply the plastdip in thin coats - don´t go for full coverage at first coat, build it up.
:salute:
 

It looks like it self leveled and filled in some of those gaps. I just put second coat on. Hard to get some of the angles on the face plate.


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