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Help Needed: TK FX armor build want to get wearable by May 17


mjrose927

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EDITED TO ADD ARMOR INFO:

1.  First/last name:  Michael R.

2.  Future Garrison/Squad/Outpost or local area:  Great Lakes Garrison

3.  Armor maker:  FX w/ TD from Trooperbay, TD clips (bent) from PandaTrooper

4.  Helmet maker:  AP

5.  Cloth belt maker:  Kittel

6.  Neck seal maker:  Geeky Pink's Phantastic Gaskets

7.  Boot maker:  Caboots

8.  Interior strapping (optional):  Me

9.  Blaster maker (if applicable:  N/A

10.  Gasket maker (if applicable):  N/A

11.  Height  (optional):  5'8"

12.  weight (optional):  185lbs

13.  TK type (ANH Stunt/Hero. ESB, ROTJ. TFA etc.):  ANH - Stunt

14.  Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build. -  In person, Al Tong on multiple occasions

                                                                                                                    - Facebook:  James Anderton, Dave Araujo, David Ashcroft, Vern Beezer, Rebecca Beiderwell, Sha Sha Chu, Rat Ferrell, Jose G. Garcia Jr, Jeff Leone, Nicholas MacNeil, Teresa Nuthall, Dave Tinsley, Mike Souza, Tim Waychoff,  

                                                                                                                    - Forum:  See below

 

I haven't posted in a while, but since my last build thread I have moved into a new house and have setup a work shop.  My new years resolution is to get my kit built before Motor City Comic Con in Detroit at end of May.  My current goal is to get everything but bucket wearable.  If I can get bucket done too, then all the better.  Yes, this is an FX kit I bought back in 2003 and just had life REALLY get in the way.  I am considering this my practice build for a better set down the road.  I am currently building it with cover strips and as much EIB as I can.  However, as stated my goal is wearable by comic con.

 

Here is my latest status:

I have forearms and calves done except for rear facing cover strips and they need reshaping with heat gun to align better.

Biceps are done except they are oblong the wrong way.  If search on same, you can find original post.

I wasn't sure whether to do thighs or torso next.  So, I picked torso.  Here are my current questions for torso:

I am ready to get my torso pieces fit and assembled.  Here are some pictures of pieces on me.  I am looking for the following:
1. Is the top of the ab plate supposed to align to top of the kidney plate?
2. I have seen some build videos where the back plate ends at the top of the kidney plate.  Is this the case?  If so, what do I need to do?
3. Item 2 kind of plays into next question, that the kidney plate looks tall?  Is it sitting at correct height?  
4. Where should the top of the butt plate rest with respect to my body?  the bottom of my back? where top of typical pair of pants sit?  It looks like it slipped down a little during picture taking in a couple shots.
5. Do i need to reshape the O II back plate?  it seems to curve in at 45 degrees when it wraps around to front of body at bottom?
6. I feel like the front breast plate is obtuse or flat.  Should I shape it to be more form fitting?  Or should I wait to do any shaping until after I have it together.

 

VD5Td3m.jpgEvU12e4.jpgdz5EKAe.jpgTYixDQK.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021
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I just posted this in your old thread - so I'll post it here too...

 

Hi Michael,

 

Yes, the ab and kidney should line up at the top.  Also, the kidney should ideally butt up against the back piece with no overlap (so, yeah, it is high) - although I do not believe this is a requirement for basic approval (as per the CRL).  For basic approval, you will need to separate your butt plate from your kidney plate. 

 

It does look like the butt plate has slipped down a bit in the pictures.  You want to keep your cod and butt plates high as possible (i.e. comfortable) so they are not in the way of the thigh pieces. 

 

I wouldn't worry about reshaping the chest piece or the back quite yet from what I can see. 

 

Check out some of the images in the original trilogy image reference gallery.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/

 

or some of the Centurion applications for the ideal look of the armor.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/

 

Hope that helps.  Good luck.

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27 minutes ago, wook1138 said:

I just posted this in your old thread - so I'll post it here too...

 

Hi Michael,

 

Yes, the ab and kidney should line up at the top.  Also, the kidney should ideally butt up against the back piece with no overlap (so, yeah, it is high) - although I do not believe this is a requirement for basic approval (as per the CRL).  For basic approval, you will need to separate your butt plate from your kidney plate. 

 

It does look like the butt plate has slipped down a bit in the pictures.  You want to keep your cod and butt plates high as possible (i.e. comfortable) so they are not in the way of the thigh pieces. 

 

I wouldn't worry about reshaping the chest piece or the back quite yet from what I can see. 

 

Check out some of the images in the original trilogy image reference gallery.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/

 

or some of the Centurion applications for the ideal look of the armor.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/

 

Hope that helps.  Good luck.

I was planning to put return edge on my butt and ab plate after separating them.  This may help with the back plate overlap.  As you stated I won't worry about overlap at this point, but from the pictures in the links above, it does look like the FX back plate is a little long under the O II. 

 

These links were helpful.  Thanks.  I want to get torso fitted so I can order belt to get that started.

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43 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Here’s a thread worth checking out - and welcome back:salute:

 

Thanks for this!  I have it bookmarked.  I am trying to work to EIB guidelines from start.  But I will be happy just to meet my goal of wearable armor by May 17th.

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Here are my photos for reference. How tall are you? Would be helpful to know when it comes to trimming pieces.

 

The top of the kidney and top of the ab sides are to align. Looks like you need to reduce the height of the kidney. Since you'll have to cut it off from the butt piece, do the trimming on the bottom along that cut line. That cut line will be covered by the belt anyways an that way you maintain the return edge along the top of the kidney.

 

This may force you to trim the sides of the ab so they align with the trimmed kidney. The key is to get the bottom of the butt and the cord aligned so that its comfortable when you walk and doesn't collide with your thigh pieces. Then look at how that placement looks in relation to the chest/ab interface. Meaning, are the buttons on the ab still visible? Is the ab too high or low? If too high, you may have to trim some more off. A lot depends on your height.

 

I'm short so had to trim a lot. I trimmed off the top and bottom of the kidney to get it the right size. Also trimmed and repositioned the cod to move it up. And trimmed off the top of and sides of the ab. Sometimes you just gotta cut.

 

The butt piece is pushed out in the photos due to my mannequin. Obviously not supposed to look like that.

 

Are you local to the Detroit area? There are lots of us in the Great Lakes Garrison to help. I'm in Royal Oak.34c9575ef3f72c2254a69f5cfa3a9221.jpg&key=de548918613ca25f58575e6937fdf43ba2282e24a498ce248b684a9482d43823e9ac839040cd4dcb6db61dab3b333def.jpg&key=902b3b9aa3d2b8388de4799e7364ec85eb298e3f7c78912147c85438ee49ab3a

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Last night, I was gluing front cover strips to my shin/calves pieces, and was trying to size my thighs pieces.  It is hard to do by oneself.  would you recommend getting front glued together first before trying to size each thigh?

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Ok. I’m back in basement today. Should have shin pieces assembled by end of weekend.  I’ll add pics of progress later when log into computer.  Posting from phone now.  I definitely like the cover strip method over the FX over lap method.  Cover strips only FX are Loki g good on my FX kit.  I’m glad I took time to go this route.  Thanks to trooperbay more abs is showing up By Tuesday so I can get thighs done with cover strips as well.  I got a lead on belt I want.  I just need to figure out fit for torso.  I’m trying to find an extra set of hands and eyes to help. 

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On 3/8/2019 at 6:01 PM, mjrose927 said:

Last night, I was gluing front cover strips to my shin/calves pieces, and was trying to size my thighs pieces.  It is hard to do by oneself.  would you recommend getting front glued together first before trying to size each thigh?

I always use white gaffa tape for sizing, holds really well :salute:

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On 3/9/2019 at 1:01 AM, mjrose927 said:

Last night, I was gluing front cover strips to my shin/calves pieces, and was trying to size my thighs pieces.  It is hard to do by oneself.  would you recommend getting front glued together first before trying to size each thigh?

Ok, I got the thighs figured out with a little help from Al in the Great Lakes Garrison gave up part of his Sunday afternoon to come by to give me hand with sizing torso and thighs.  I placed orders amazon order for my line 24 & 20 snaps and buttons for ab plate.  

 

Now I am waiting for some ABS from trooperbay to do the last of my cover strips.  I am hoping by the end of the month that I will have the body armor at some level of assembly that is wearable. 

 

WSMOmrv.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
photo updated gmrhodes13 2021
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OK. New question that I need an answer to:

 

When I had the opportunity to look at a thermal detonator up close this weekend from an Anavos kit it did not look like the one for my FX kit.  I want to know if this is going to be an issue for getting approval or not.  I don't want to waste time assembling something that will not work.  If you look at the pictures below, the button on the pieces has a protruding nipple instead of an inverted one.  Is this an issue???  If you scroll up to previous post above of the backside of the armor, you can see the difference.

 

6s2ATWy.jpg

huDs3Od.jpg

Edited by gmrhodes13
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On 3/7/2019 at 9:59 PM, fragarock said:

Here are my photos for reference. How tall are you? Would be helpful to know when it comes to trimming pieces.

 

The top of the kidney and top of the ab sides are to align. Looks like you need to reduce the height of the kidney. Since you'll have to cut it off from the butt piece, do the trimming on the bottom along that cut line. That cut line will be covered by the belt anyways an that way you maintain the return edge along the top of the kidney.

 

This may force you to trim the sides of the ab so they align with the trimmed kidney. The key is to get the bottom of the butt and the cord aligned so that its comfortable when you walk and doesn't collide with your thigh pieces. Then look at how that placement looks in relation to the chest/ab interface. Meaning, are the buttons on the ab still visible? Is the ab too high or low? If too high, you may have to trim some more off. A lot depends on your height.

 

I'm short so had to trim a lot. I trimmed off the top and bottom of the kidney to get it the right size. Also trimmed and repositioned the cod to move it up. And trimmed off the top of and sides of the ab. Sometimes you just gotta cut.

 

Are you local to the Detroit area? There are lots of us in the Great Lakes Garrison to help. I'm in Royal Oak.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am 5'8" about 185lbs.  

 

The FX kit only as a return edge on the breast plate and back plate.  All other pieces have no return edges.  Al Tong from Great Lakes Garrison was nice enough to spend part of his Sunday afternoon helping me fit things.  He is the same height and all of my pieces align with his Anavos kit save the back plate.  That is oversized.  He recommended at this point to leave everything as is until I get it wearable and see how it fits when assembled on me.  Then stated I could get help from some more of the local guys or submit for pre-approval to see if changes will be required.

 

My ab, butt, and kidney plate lined up perfectly with Al's kit.  I just don't have the return edges.  someone suggested in a post on different thread that when separating the butt from kidney plate on FX armor, should cut 1/4-1/2" below the line in armor.  When compared to Anavos kit, the line on mine lines up exactly the same place as the Anavos kit.   

Edited by mjrose927
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Ok!  Last night I got my amazon order of Tandy snaps 24&20, my chicago screws, and Dickies belt to attach leg pieces.

 

I am also SUPER THRILLED that my local hobby store sold the Humbrel paints and they had all required colors.  Super stoked.  Did I miss where the ANH frown color gray is specified.  Does it use the same gray as the ab buttons?

 

I got my ABS sheet from trooperbay and the color matches my FX kit really well.  So, i can get cover strips on thighs and still have plenty for ab to kidney gap.

 

Now I just need a trip to the fabric store to get my 2in webbing.

 

Ill be back in the basement on Sunday going to town!!!..... expect more questions Sunday evening!  Lol.

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Ok.  Here is next question.  My FX kit only comes with the front dropbox.  There are no backs.  Anyone else there have this issue and what did you do?  I might have some ABS to make backs, but would be open to suggestions on how to do it.  I would also take any links on this site or youtube to use these.

 

----------

 

Thanks,

Michael

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13 hours ago, Digz Graavz said:

I'd use the ABS sheet that you have, cut it in a modified + sign and fold it to make a box.  Use the galleries for finding reference images.

How would you fold it?  I tried using a heat gun to adjust one of my forearms and nearly ruined it because i couldn't get the heat to distribute evenly...... Oh, wait I forgot I borrowed a sealing iron from a friend.  I could do that.

 

Or I also had the idea of using scrap ABS and crate a block at top and bottom of inside of drop box and just glue a flat plat across the backside.  

 

Anyone else have ideas or opinions?

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Here's a possible workaround that would be pretty easy. 

 

For my build, I added weight to the Drop Boxes my cutting a piece of plywood and gluing it inside.  Here's what that looked like:

 

Dropbox%20back%20lo-res.jpg

 

The piece of plywood I used was a bit smaller than the box it's going into in the photo and I didn't care about how it looked, but keep in mind I just put it there for weight and it would be hidden.  However, if you were to cut a wooden rectangle that would fit more snuggly than I needed it to, round the corners, sand it nice and smooth, and then paint it white and glue in into place, you'd never be able to tell it wasn't plastic. 

 

Just a thought.

 

A.J.

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On 3/21/2019 at 3:41 PM, A.J. Hamler said:

Here's a possible workaround that would be pretty easy. 

 

For my build, I added weight to the Drop Boxes my cutting a piece of plywood and gluing it inside.  Here's what that looked like:

 

Dropbox%20back%20lo-res.jpg

 

The piece of plywood I used was a bit smaller than the box it's going into in the photo and I didn't care about how it looked, but keep in mind I just put it there for weight and it would be hidden.  However, if you were to cut a wooden rectangle that would fit more snuggly than I needed it to, round the corners, sand it nice and smooth, and then paint it white and glue in into place, you'd never be able to tell it wasn't plastic. 

 

Just a thought.

 

A.J.

This is definitely an interesting idea.  I am not sure if I will use this idea out of the gate, but I do like it for your exact reason: to give more natural weight and movement of the parts.

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REALLY STOKED RIGHT NOW!  Thanks to Mark at Authentic Props, I now possess a submittable bucket.  I am looking for any videos or instructions specifically for this helmet kit if anyone has a good link or build guide!

 

--------

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There are several AP build, mine among them.  I found the helmet to be pretty quick.


If it's not pre-drilled, see what you can do with your screw alignment on the ears, and watch the height of the brow when you're building.  I had to shim mine up and glue it.

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18 hours ago, Digz Graavz said:

There are several AP build, mine among them.  I found the helmet to be pretty quick.


If it's not pre-drilled, see what you can do with your screw alignment on the ears, and watch the height of the brow when you're building.  I had to shim mine up and glue it.

Mine are not pre-drilled, but they do have dimples where it looks like it is a guide to assemble the pieces together.  Do I just search on AP helmet build?

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Mark from AP is active on here, he may also be able to provide some insight.  Here are some images of mine:

lZrc480.jpg

nJhcYYV.jpg

 

Jq88Jvw.jpg

 

oxJ2zY5.jpg

 

m4C8Buc.jpg

 

The ones with the pencil lines show "ideal" lineup.  Mine came pre-drilled and I used what was there.  It  got me EIB and should be 0 issue for Centurion.  Go with the best fit of the pieces as priority #1.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/26/2019 at 6:58 PM, Digz Graavz said:

Mark from AP is active on here, he may also be able to provide some insight.  Here are some images of mine:

lZrc480.jpg

nJhcYYV.jpg

 

Jq88Jvw.jpg

 

oxJ2zY5.jpg

 

m4C8Buc.jpg

 

The ones with the pencil lines show "ideal" lineup.  Mine came pre-drilled and I used what was there.  It  got me EIB and should be 0 issue for Centurion.  Go with the best fit of the pieces as priority #1.

 

Thank you for these pictures!  I was starting to trim the parts and did a pre-test assembly and had same gap you show between the face plate and the back of helmet where the cruved section and the bottom did not follow the same contours as the face plate on the 2 pictures of sides without the ear pieces.  Do the assembly of the ear pieces hide this gap that well?  Do you have link to build here or youtube to watch?  So nervous about working on helmet.  This to me is crown jewel of the armor.  

 

BTW, I was blown away when I compared this bucket to my FX one.  So much nicer.  I did not build that one.  Just looked at pieces in box.

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