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Husky68 ANH TK (trimmed AP)


husky68

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 For the Thermal Detonator the AP kit comes with a black ABS which is the correct diameter but will need to be cut and painted grey.  This brought me back to paints and what is available here in Japan.  There are several brands found in Yodobashi Camera hobby section but a common one is Tamiya.  I found a conversion chart matching the following:

 

Humbrol #21 Black Gloss -> Tamiya x-1 Gloss Black

Humbrol #15 Midnight Blue -> Tamiya x-3  Gloss Blue royal Gloss

Humbrol #14 French Blue   -> Tamiya x-4 Gloss Blue

Humbrol #5 Dark Admiral Grey ->  ????????????

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Here is a thread for Tamiya conversions, may be of help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45651-anh-paint-colour-guide-tamiya-equivalents/

 

For the TD I use an automotive primer and once dry I give it a coat of automotive gloss clear, usually find these in any auto parts outlet.

 

Here is a conversion chart which may also be of assistance http://www.planete-auto.fr/english/tamiya-color-chart.asp

 

 

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1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Thanks Q,  missed this in my search.

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Hi Robert! Great work so far! 

Is there enough extra ABS to make inner cover-strips for your forearms? In addition to the added strength, it would allow you to open the forearms up a little more by glueing them together with the butts not quite joined. Your finishing strips will cover up the small "trench" and make it look nice and clean from the outside. Hope that made sense—I wish I had a picture.

Looking forward to following your build! I just recently finished my first TK, also from AP, and loved the whole process. I'm also from Canada and share your body type. You will look AWESOME in your armour. :D

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Hi Robert! Great work so far! 

Is there enough extra ABS to make inner cover-strips for your forearms? In addition to the added strength, it would allow you to open the forearms up a little more by glueing them together with the butts not quite joined. Your finishing strips will cover up the small "trench" and make it look nice and clean from the outside. Hope that made sense—I wish I had a picture.


The 14 strips of abs should be enough and I get the trench idea. Likely all pieces will need a trench except biceps but should be able to keep the centurion sized cover strips. Might even put pieces inside the trench to strengthen them if cutting and leaves narrow strips.

Hopeful to have left overs for paste and future repairs.
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 Had a great armor party with some local garrison members.  Made my first cover strips and even small cuts to the armor. 

 

  I will put a trench ( gap ) of roughly 5mm in front and 10mm in back of each forearm.  This gives my hands enough room to fit and still keeps a fairly snug but comfortable fit.  To add strength I will likely fill the trench with a smaller strip between the gap and the inner and outer cover strips,  should stand up to trooping.

 

Haven't decided how to make up the difference in length of the two forearm pieces but will start glueing this week.  Starting with inside strips then posting pictures before outer cover strips.

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 Had a great armor party with some local garrison members.  Made my first cover strips and even small cuts to the armor. 
 
  I will put a trench ( gap ) of roughly 5mm in front and 10mm in back of each forearm.  This gives my hands enough room to fit and still keeps a fairly snug but comfortable fit.  To add strength I will likely fill the trench with a smaller strip between the gap and the inner and outer cover strips,  should stand up to trooping.
 
Haven't decided how to make up the difference in length of the two forearm pieces but will start glueing this week.  Starting with inside strips then posting pictures before outer cover strips.

Awesome to hear!

Regarding the difference in length, line up the two pieces at the wrists. Then you can trim appropriately at the elbow end :)


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Forearm parts came with different curves that do not match up.

 

xyZwtQO.jpg

 

So when you tape them together they don't natural come together on both ends.  Taping one side you can see the other side is natural to have a wide gap.

 

KcZ7ewO.jpg

 

You can push the sides together and you see the bottom connect with the top having a wider gap.

 

nWzVp9Q.jpg

 

  But with the magic of tape both sides can be pulled together and aligned.  

UIJkYNF.jpg

 

It's been suggested that I connect one side then hot bath the pieces to make them join with less stress on the other side join.  I'm thinking to also make the shape more oval or flatter to match the shape of my forearm.  Also,  I want to try to bend that edge up near the dimple instead of cutting it off for that "no return edge" look.

 

 

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I normally try to join the fronts (what the public normally sees) first to get a nice even flat appearance, then tackle the rears. I also like to add inside strips just for a little extra strength before heating and forming the rear closures. I use a heat gun but it does take some practice to use so a heat bath is a much safer option, if you have a look at some of the other AP build threads it will give you an idea what others have done.

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Hi,

 

I am also located in Japan (Osaka)

 

as gmrhodes13 said join I found glueing the fronts let dry 100% and then after do the inside shim and clamp it well tokyo hands have really good metal clips that are super strong and cheap. once glued i then do the hot bath and shape it some and then finally do the top shim.

 

I have a heat gun from amazon.jp 2000 yen which has good attachements but you defo need some practice to get this right hot water bath several times is safe..

 

For Dark Dark Admiral Grey i used Tamiya XF-53 alternative is XF-66

 

I am about to order from trooperbay some items and will get paint as well its about $3.70 a pot if your interested i will cover the shipping you just pay for the paint.

 

I have found that

Amazon.jp...

e6000 is the fastest and cheapest,

Magnets cheap 

Chicago Screws I ordered a few so if needed let me know.

Konan Pro

sanding items

Spring for E11 (I see you are doing a 3D printed E11, I also got a prusa 3)

Acetone 

Tokyo Hands  

Poppers and tools  

leather and elastic 

100 yen Shops

tape 

Elastic

Sewing items

Justjoseph63

hand Gauards 

Split Rivets

TD screws I have spare if you need.

Single Cap Rivets

UniQlo

Under Armour

bulldog44

E11 resin Scope Brian must have AHD as its so well packaged and the detail is so awesome 

 

the AP kit looks awesome I had a kit untrimmed and messed up several pieces... live and learn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by p4ntb0y
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3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

if you have a look at some of the other AP build threads it will give you an idea what others have done.

  Most of the other AP builds talk about the length but don't mention this width/curve of forearms.  I should just glue with trenches as planned and hot bath them.

 

2 hours ago, p4ntb0y said:

the AP kit looks awesome I had a kit untrimmed and messed up several pieces... live and learn.

  Waiting for updates on your build thread.

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Decided I needed to make some progress.  So I trimmed the top of one of the biceps and made the cover strips.  Might have went a bit light on the glue but will see tomorrow,  can always take it off and try again.

 

nNs2YvX.jpg

 

lD2nRiy.jpg

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I built an AP kit last year and definitely had to heat gun the forearms a bit to get them to a shape where the owner could fit his hands through! Inside cover strips are a good idea here for strength. As mentioned, be careful with the heat gun; err on the side of caution!

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The best and easiest way and trust me on this I built many, is to glue all the strips on all the outer part first let dry overnight then glue in the inner part but one side first let dry then glue shut the other side, trying to glue the strip on both side at the same will be frustrating when it will come to the leg parts especially the thighs, so like I said first glue strips on all the leg and arms outer parts first then glue in the inner parts, its a little longer but its the most effecient way. I will send you photos somehow Im having a hard time posting pics here

 

Mark (AP)

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From what I remember with my armor I first glued the outer strip on one side then reinforced that by gluing the inner strip afterwards. Then I moved to the other side . This worked well for the parts that seemed to have a lot more stress when trying to glue strips on the sealing end . I was using e6000 though so that sometimes didn’t cure well and was a weak binder.

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6 hours ago, lucnak said:

I built an AP kit last year and definitely had to heat gun the forearms a bit to get them to a shape where the owner could fit his hands through! Inside cover strips are a good idea here for strength. As mentioned, be careful with the heat gun; err on the side of caution!

 My idea was with a bit of shape work I could reduce the trench between pieces but maybe not completely.  I think I will connect one forearm as planned and after hot water consider reducing the trench.

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5 hours ago, ABS80 said:

Just sent you pics, can you please post them for me this will help others

 

Thanks

Mark (AP)

Just had a second look at the email from Mark and realized I didn't see all of the images on my phone.  He included some completed shots which might be interesting to all AP kit buyers as to trimming edges and cover strips.  I've already made some cuts to my armor so might not be able to follow these but they do look nice.  I think the forearm and bicep looks nice and clean.

 

Bx9F2oC.jpg

 

dHyHn2e.jpg

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Looking great Robert! Just a suggestion on the cover strips...you might want to trim the corners at a 45 angle. Those corners are sharp and can cause some annoying scratches.

Just my two cents. Keep up the great work!

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25 minutes ago, DStep said:

Looking great Robert! Just a suggestion on the cover strips...you might want to trim the corners at a 45 angle. Those corners are sharp and can cause some annoying scratches.

  Agreed.  I've already cut them on my forearm strips but have not glued yet.  I forgot to do so on the bicep,  and also messed up the finish by sanding both sides of the strip,  but will leave it for future clean up.  The others shown in pictures are from Mark but I think his strips still look cool.

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