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simorph

Simes' ANH TK Build

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Thanks Dan, I was metaphorically pooping myself clearing out those eyes and teeth - just checked your video highlights on YouTube - that's a been a real relief - confirmed to me that I'd gone far enough into the corner of the eyes and that the line of the lower eye isn't supposed to be straight! Time to put on that brow strip!

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Thanks Dan, I was metaphorically pooping myself clearing out those eyes and teeth - just checked your video highlights on YouTube - that's a been a real relief - confirmed to me that I'd gone far enough into the corner of the eyes and that the line of the lower eye isn't supposed to be straight! Time to put on that brow strip!

Aw, great stuff - please that it helped. It can be that people go a little too far with the teeth, leaving them looking a little flat and two dimensional. Yours still have good depth.
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Nice work, looking forward to the progress

 

 

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Some great progress, I am so happy for you the way those boots turned out. Keep up the good work.

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So I finally attached the right ear, and my kitchen is reasonably free of small ABS fragments...

 

The cutting wasn't the problem (used the flapper disc on a dremel and marked the ear cap with sharpie, every time just trimming away the bit I'd marked) but reconciling it with the depth of that right side was. 

 

To make sure my brow looked even, with the same spacing above the right eye and the left this meant that the right side of the back of the helmet was slightly longer than ideal - which meant that the right ear cap had to do a lot of work to reach from just below the brow strip to cover the curve of the right tubes.  Am reasonably happy with the gap - checking the spare ear cap and the moulding I literally couldn't have left any more on the ear cap. 

 

(Found also, to pull the tubes in tighter on both sides I had to install a second pop rivet just above the tubes, under the ear cap since the back moulding was so flared out.)

 

So...one down...

 

n2jEZcj.jpg

 

iBU4WXk.jpg

 

 

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Another update - cutting the left ear was a breeze in comparison to the right.

 

I decided to reinforce around the eyes with some Milliput

MZgX6SH.jpg

 

And then, when drilling the holes for the mic tips, I found that the ABS was paper thin in that region (so much so, my drill slipped and carved a double-sized hole)

 

I also reinforced that area too, while drilling my visor to fit  - fits nice and snugly against the Milliput, so much so, that I'll likely just drop on another washer and bolt to hold it in place.

XjU8zXZ.jpg

 

On the outside, ear screws are now all painted white.  Next plan is to line and blackout the interior with some Plasti-Dip & cheesecloth before doing the rest of the exterior paintwork,  finishing off the mic tips and backing the teeth cutouts with mesh.

 

Finally feels like I'm making progress!

Edited by simorph
Posted too quick!
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1 hour ago, simorph said:

Another update - cutting the left ear was a breeze in comparison to the right.

 

I decided to reinforce around the eyes with some Milliput

MZgX6SH.jpg

 

And then, when drilling the holes for the mic tips, I found that the ABS was paper thin in that region (so much so, my drill slipped and carved a double-sized hole)

 

I also reinforced that area too, while drilling my visor to fit  - fits nice and snugly against the Milliput, so much so, that I'll likely just drop on another washer and bolt to hold it in place.

XjU8zXZ.jpg

 

On the outside, ear screws are now all painted white.  Next plan is to line and blackout the interior with some Plasti-Dip & cheesecloth before doing the rest of the exterior paintwork,  finishing off the mic tips and backing the teeth cutouts with mesh.

 

Finally feels like I'm making progress!

I would definitely recommend a bolt that holds the lens in. This way if anything ever happens and you need to replace them, you can just remove the bolt and replace them.

 

Also, you don't want the lens to completely seal around the eyes, but "float" so to speak. This way there is a way for the eyes to vent and not fog so easily

Edited by Commander Gree
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On ‎3‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 3:29 AM, simorph said:

So I finally attached the right ear, and my kitchen is reasonably free of small ABS fragments...

 

The cutting wasn't the problem (used the flapper disc on a dremel and marked the ear cap with sharpie, every time just trimming away the bit I'd marked) but reconciling it with the depth of that right side was. 

 

To make sure my brow looked even, with the same spacing above the right eye and the left this meant that the right side of the back of the helmet was slightly longer than ideal - which meant that the right ear cap had to do a lot of work to reach from just below the brow strip to cover the curve of the right tubes.  Am reasonably happy with the gap - checking the spare ear cap and the moulding I literally couldn't have left any more on the ear cap. 

 

(Found also, to pull the tubes in tighter on both sides I had to install a second pop rivet just above the tubes, under the ear cap since the back moulding was so flared out.)

 

So...one down...

 

n2jEZcj.jpg

 

iBU4WXk.jpg

 

 

If you are shooting for L3, you may want to look at your ear placement. They should be slanted to the back, and not straight up and down. Cant remember if this is a specific requirement of L3, but I know it has been mentioned before in other submissions

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I'd love to do that, but, the shape of the helmet being what it is, I can't twist 'em any further and still fit the helmet,  match the curves and cover the seam line.

 

That said, there's nothing in the CRL about ear angle even at L3...

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
  • Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

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1 minute ago, simorph said:

I'd love to do that, but, the shape of the helmet being what it is, I can't twist 'em any further and still fit the helmet,  match the curves and cover the seam line.

 

That said, there's nothing in the CRL about ear angle even at L3...

 

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

  • Ear bars shall have only one bump painted in black (rank stripes).
  • Neck trim shall be of an s-type profile rather than a u-type profile.
  • Tears/traps shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH TK details).
  • Ear screws shall be slotted, flat topped, countersunk and painted white.

Ok awesome, I was just fixing to go look at it. Its one of those "over the top accurate" things then. No worries. Your looking good so far. cant wait to see the bucket finished. it was the first thing I did to get the "hard part" out of the way. and it was the most scary. I like you was "pooping" myself during the teeth. Luckily for me AM cuts the eyes for you, so I didn't have to worry about too much.

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Thanks Jordan, much appreciated!  It was such a fiddle and a compromise - I'm used to asymmetry in Star Wars helmets but this was quite 'special' ;)

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7 minutes ago, simorph said:

That said, there's nothing in the CRL about ear angle even at L3...

That’s correct. There’s an ideal look to shoot for but as of now it’s only a suggestion:salute:

ORTWBAy.jpg

 

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1 minute ago, simorph said:

Thank goodness!

 

So...many...options...

gallery_14191_17_13947.jpg

 

So, this is how it turned out...

 

ATNOb9i.jpg

 

UOwFBL6.jpg

 

 

That's great, but I can tell you, be VERY careful basing your build off any of the TK's you see in the movie. Some of them would not pass the CRL. Never EVER use it as a temple and ALWAYS go off the CRL. we have had troopers in the pass do this, copy a specific TK down to the imperfections, and be denied because a material wasn't correct. the CRL is put in place for a standard TK look, and there were "quick fixes" on set that would "disqualify" a TK from being accepted. If you ever have a question on something ask first before cutting. please

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Just now, simorph said:

Yeah, definitely.

 

But is there a CRL gallery apart from this page: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt?

 

Thanks!

Im hoping there are some that can chime in while im looking, but I am almost positive we have smoothing here on the forum that shows what the CRL was based off of. Maybe @justjoseph63 can help here?

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Thanks. I spent some time as costume advisor on the MMC UK forums with my Mando and am used to following CRLs. 

The problem always arises in that vague area that is 'common knowledge' but which hasn't been written down.

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Pencil-marked everywhere that needs the first round of painting... (and of course, realised I had to take the brow strip off again to get the brushes in there) :)

 

yUgPTw7.jpg

kDgCBKS.jpg

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You’re doing a good job, Simon.

Personally, I spent ages looking a screen used reference photos. CRL is designed to create a slightly idealised look across the legion, however, the TK itself is seen on screen. Whilst certain anomalies like “mr no stripes” are not allowed (because they were movie mistakes), many screen used features make the TK look better.

Keep up the good work. :-)

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Coming along nicely, measure twice and cut once (or paint) ;) 

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Great job on those boots and the helmet so far!

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Picture heavy post, guys, here's my adventures in painting the helmet these past few days.

 

Black  first...

Zj64GYa.jpg

 

Two coats of grey, leaving a pinstripe...

OMa1Ygi.jpg

 

Marking a pencil in from cheek and from lower jaw

jYtNL39.jpg

Getting a straight stencil to wrap around a curve...grr!

voVbPKc.jpg

I think something's symmetrical here...

Du3hhGH.jpg

White undercoat first, before the blue...

sVEFXGB.jpg

A couple of days later and two coats of blue...strip off the stencils and...

 

Eek!

IT9nnne.jpg

ArULBDc.jpg

 

So, with a bit of white spirit, a toothpick and a small brush, I cleaned up the edges, and repainted the missing bits of blue...

 

KcgnwY9.jpg

 

j9LOxQM.jpg

 

So...next up - get that brow strip back on, double-check the white countersunk screws, get the interior sanded, bolts cut on the inside and get some Plasti-Dip in there...

 

kc3dLU8.jpg

 

l32IzFH.jpg

 

t2rD9mQ.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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