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PatrickM

Patrick's ANH E11 build thread

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Great progress, Patrick!! :-)

For the knurling, i purchased a relatively cheap set of ‘Rolson’ shaping/modelling tools from Amazon - they happened to have a nice knurling pattern on them which worked well for mine. Here’s a pic showing the tool and the packaging that the whole set (around 10pcs) came in.

130d2c3131d441bbbad58e599d27d03b.jpg

Lovely build thread so far, Patrick. :-)

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4 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Great progress, Patrick!! :-)

For the knurling, i purchased a relatively cheap set of ‘Rolson’ shaping/modelling tools from Amazon - they happened to have a nice knurling pattern on them which worked well for mine. Here’s a pic showing the tool and the packaging that the whole set (around 10pcs) came in.

130d2c3131d441bbbad58e599d27d03b.jpg

Lovely build thread so far, Patrick. :-)

Thanks Dan, that helped a lot! Unfortunately the Rolson set was sold out, but I found one from AmTech that looks identical. Keywords to search for: “wax carver tools”. :duim:

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Nice work so far Patrick!

 

Keep on going with that work and you will have a very nice E11 !

 

Marko

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Thanks for all the feedback guys! :duim:

 

Some more updates:

 

Nose job

I replaced the resin cast nose by a 3D printed one. In retrospect the resin cast nose wasn’t as bad as I had seen on some pictures, except for the 2 screws which were just shapeless blobs. But since I will replace those by the beautiful real ones from Tino’s completion kit that was no problem. The 3D printed nose will make installing the LEDs and the acrylic tube somewhat easier though, so I replaced it anyway. When enlarging the holes for the real screws to fit I noticed that the 3D printed material was less “Dremel-friendly” than the resin.

32632783538_5b60ee1813_h.jpg20181229_003208

 

Metal details on folding stock

Installed the metal details from Tino’s completion kit on the folding stock. To be honest I found this to be harder than it looks. Anyway, here’s the result:

32632588508_98d0b395cd_h.jpg20181227_193658

 

Scope rail 2.0

Initially I got the position of the scope wrong, because I followed the measures from the template without knowing that the rear scope foot is supposed to be above the folding stock pivot. So I had to drill new holes and fill the old ones with green stuff. Never really liked that, and I still had some aluminum left, so I decided to make a new one. And this time I wanted to include the Hengstler Counter bracket in one piece. Many Bothans...ehm...Dremel cutting discs have died :huh:, but here are some pictures of the result:

46453802632_b347cde051_h.jpg20181228_225034

 

32632591108_dbad2486f0_h.jpg20181228_231150

 

46505589491_48e8430844_h.jpg20181228_231803

 

I have one question regarding the placement of the Hengstler Counter: according to the E11 blaster reference, the logo of the counter should be aligned with the front scope foot. Is it the left side or the center of the logo that must be aligned (I assume the center, is that correct)?

 

That’s it again, thanks for reading! :jc_doublethumbup:

Edited by PatrickM
Corrected an autocorrection error...
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Hey Patrick, very nice build progress. Can't see anything wrong so far. Okay, you had small problems but successfully managed to fix them. :jc_doublethumbup: Considering your attention to details, this is going to become a very good blaster.

 

10 hours ago, PatrickM said:

(...)   I have one question regarding the placement of the Hengstler Counter: according to the E11 blaster reference, the logo of the counter should be aligned with the front scope foot. Is it the left side or the center of the logo that must be aligned (I assume the center, is that correct)?   (...)

Well, this is not rocket science. In the text from the Blaster Reference we just had to recommend something. This is what we ended up with but you are okay to roughly stick with that.

The same was for the position of the scope. Some people had it sitting too close to the front or rear end of the rail. So we came up with that "rear foot of scope should be aligned with the folding stock hinge" because this looks correct. Meaning, as long as scope and counter are somewhere, where they are supposed to be, everything will look fine. :) You are on a good way!

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Nice work Patrick. Yes I would echo what Tino has said about the placement of the scope and the counter. There isn’t an exact position per say just what looks correct from the screen used blasters. Using those reference points as Tino recommends will give you the best look. Have a look at some screen shots of the blasters and I think you will see they mostly all fall closely within these reference points. 

 

The front muzzle adds a bit of work doing it that way but as you said, having access for the electronics is good. This will come in handy if you intend to install a reflector tube for the LEDs . 

Edited by Bulldog44
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12 hours ago, Mupfel said:

Nice work so far Patrick!

 

Keep on going with that work and you will have a very nice E11 !

 

Marko

Thanks Marko!

 

I see that you are doing a very similar build with DoopyDoo’s kit, 3D printed parts, electronics and Tino’s kit. Interesting read since you are further ahead. Might just copy that idea to add a red LED inside the scope, that looks cool! ;)

 

Best regards,

Patrick

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Sure, go ahead :-)... it will be a bunch of work, but it is worth it ;-)...


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12 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Hey Patrick, very nice build progress. Can't see anything wrong so far. Okay, you had small problems but successfully managed to fix them. :jc_doublethumbup: Considering your attention to details, this is going to become a very good blaster.

 

Well, this is not rocket science. In the text from the Blaster Reference we just had to recommend something. This is what we ended up with but you are okay to roughly stick with that.

The same was for the position of the scope. Some people had it sitting too close to the front or rear end of the rail. So we came up with that "rear foot of scope should be aligned with the folding stock hinge" because this looks correct. Meaning, as long as scope and counter are somewhere, where they are supposed to be, everything will look fine. :) You are on a good way!

Hi Tino,

 

thanks for explaining! I try to stick to the blaster reference as much as possible, so now I read the corresponding sections carefully before each step. Just wanted to make sure I would get the counter position right the first time. :)

 

Getting the details right is quite addictive... B)

 

Best regards,

Patrick

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11 hours ago, Bulldog44 said:

Nice work Patrick. Yes I would echo what Tino has said about the placement of the scope and the counter. There isn’t an exact position per say just what looks correct from the screen used blasters. Using those reference points as Tino recommends will give you the best look. Have a look at some screen shots of the blasters and I think you will see they mostly all fall closely within these reference points. 

 

The front muzzle adds a bit of work doing it that way but as you said, having access for the electronics is good. This will come in handy if you intend to install a reflector tube for the LEDs . 

Thanks Brian!

 

The 3D printed front muzzle will indeed be used to hold the clear acrylic tube with the LED strip. And having acces to both sides of the tube will definitely help to get everything in place. :)

 

Best regards,

Patrick

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On 12/29/2018 at 2:37 PM, Mupfel said:

Sure, go ahead :-)... it will be a bunch of work, but it is worth it ;-)...


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I will also be integrating a mini scope display, so the power will already be available. Therefore I expect the additional work to add the LED will be limited. But then again it wouldn't be the first time that I underestimate the amount of work required for a mod... ;)

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Ha, believe me, nearly everyone underestimated his first build :-)...




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Happy New Year everyone! :happyandcheerfulbirthday:

 

Time for the first update of 2019. B)

So what’s new?

 

New tools

Received packages containing a set of wax carving tools (with nice knurling pattern; thanks Dan :duim:) and 2mm stamps.

45659184175_af18233328_h.jpg20181229_135813

 

Fixed loose end cap

The end cap of my kit was very loose when mounted on the tube. Fixed this by gluing 3 ABS squares inside. Much better now!

32699851288_fe7b42aef5_h.jpg20181230_183335

 

45659297985_81bfa36989_h.jpg20190102_171449

 

Inner bolt details

Recreated the inner bolt serial number using the 2mm stamps, and the extractor and plunger from some scrap metal/aluminum parts. In retrospect I probably made the layer of green stuff for the serial number too thick, resulting in a bit of “waviness”. Unfortunately this was the best I could achieve after numerous attempts...

46521374452_7cdfc567b8_h.jpg20181230_215754

 

More folding stock details

Recreated the figures on the sides of the folding stock that had nearly disappeared in the resin cast, using engraving/carving.

45849658574_fa28a3a9ea_h.jpg20190102_171343

 

More carving to create the illusion of separate parts.

44755667740_9b06fbd936_h.jpg20181230_220320

 

Scope

Assembled the beautiful scope supplied by Bulldog Props Japan. Thanks Brian!

46521424212_6a0439d652_h.jpg20181231_162453

 

Mounted the scope and Hengstler counter

Mounted the scope and Hengstler counter to the rail. Thanks Tino and Brian for clarifying the correct position of the Hengstler counter!

45659398905_8506dbf466_h.jpg20190102_133143

 

Different angle. Notice the knurling pattern on the front sight guard. ;) Thanks Jesse!

46521445872_b7f74c573b_h.jpg20190102_133259

 

Cheers mates! :pint1:

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Coming on nicely! I love a good blaster build, and this is certainly a good one. :-)

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Happy new year Patrick and wow - what a start you made! Loving this build. :D

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1 hour ago, CableGuy said:

Coming on nicely! I love a good blaster build, and this is certainly a good one. :-)

Thanks Dan, glad you like my build thread and I really appreciate your contributions to it! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

I just started studying yours, and I like the look of the “separated” T-tracks. Did you use any additional tools to stabilize the Dremel while doing that? I’m a bit worried of the cutting disc slipping and wreaking havoc with my tube. ;)

 

How did you finally manage to bend the aluminum trigger guard into shape?

 

Best regards,

Patrick

Edited by PatrickM
Fixed typo

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17 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Happy new year Patrick and wow - what a start you made! Loving this build. :D

Standing on the shoulders of giants... :icon_bow:

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Small update today (less time available now that the holidays are over...) :blink:

 

Separating the T-tracks

Spent this evening carving the sides of the T-tracks to create the illusion that these are separate parts, which I believe was first done by Dan. I hesitated to use a Dremel cutting disc on this delicate part of the tube, so I decided to use my engraving tool, a small file and 2 wax carving tools (in that order) instead:

45691939775_aa1cd92712_h.jpg20190105_000836

 

Fortunately I managed to avoid collateral damage and I’m quite pleased with the result: :)

31665124157_d42083428c_h.jpg20190105_001510

 

39641095593_ad1744ea77_h.jpg20190105_001609

 

45691938225_06c64ab08a_h.jpg20190105_003745

 

The more build threads I read, the more ideas I get for my own build. Thanks Tino for convincing me to start my own build thread; I really appreciate the feedback from experienced blaster builders! :jc_doublethumbup:

 

I also realized that I’m lucky that my electronics kit hasn’t arrived yet. Otherwise I may have rushed to the “pew pew” part, while now I’m taking my time with all the details that really make a difference. :Laser:

 

Unfortunately that was all that I had time for tonight...

Cheers! :pint1:

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Wow!! Great work on those tracks - that's right, Dan trail-blazed that mod. I have always refrained from applying a disc, now that you've shared your method, will give this mod a go in due time, thanks for sharing!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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On 1/2/2019 at 10:17 PM, PatrickM said:

Thanks Dan, glad you like my build thread and I really appreciate your contributions to it! :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

 

I just started studying yours, and I like the look of the “separated” T-tracks. Did you use any additional tools to stabilize the Dremel while doing that? I’m a bit worried of the cutting disc slipping and wreaking havoc with my tube. ;)

 

How did you finally manage to bend the aluminum trigger guard into shape?

 

Best regards,

Patrick

 

Hi Patrick,

 

So sorry - I completely forgot to reply. 

 

The T-track work was freehand with the dremel. A little risky, however it did earn me “surgeon” status from @Dracotrooper! Lol. That little dremel disc (approx 1mm thick) came in really handy!! 

 

The trigger guard ended up being a combination of a vice, pliers and a hammer. Most of it could be manipulated with the vice and pliers, or two pairs of pliers. It wasn’t overly hard to bend so a little trial and error, and a reference photo from Jesse (dracotrooper) helped make it possible. Let me know if you’d like a copy of the guard reference. 

 

Hope that hat helps a little. Looking forward to the next update. :-)

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25 minutes ago, Dracotrooper said:

Wow!! Great work on those tracks - that's right, Dan trail-blazed that mod. I have always refrained from applying a disc, now that you've shared your method, will give this mod a go in due time, thanks for sharing!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk
 

You're welcome, glad that I can also give something back to the community that has provided me with such a wealth of useful information! :salute:

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17 minutes ago, CableGuy said:

 

Hi Patrick,

 

So sorry - I completely forgot to reply. 

 

The T-track work was freehand with the dremel. A little risky, however it did earn me “surgeon” status from @Dracotrooper! Lol. That little dremel disc (approx 1mm thick) came in really handy!! 

 

The trigger guard ended up being a combination of a vice, pliers and a hammer. Most of it could be manipulated with the vice and pliers, or two pairs of pliers. It wasn’t overly hard to bend so a little trial and error, and a reference photo from Jesse (dracotrooper) helped make it possible. Let me know if you’d like a copy of the guard reference. 

 

Hope that hat helps a little. Looking forward to the next update. :-)

Hi surgeon Dan,  ;)

 

I already figured that the 38mm disc was way too big and thick. But even with the smaller disc I'm impressed that you managed to do that freehand. So I totally agree with Jesse regarding your surgeon status! :icon_bow: Really glad that my less nerve wrecking way to do it also worked... ;)

 

Yes I would like to have a copy of the reference photo to give that mod a try as well! I expect the hard part to be achieving the right shape while bending. I'm considering first creating the shape in wood and bending the aluminum strip around that, but maybe I should first give it a go without...

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Hi surgeon Dan,  
 
I already figured that the 38mm disc was way too big and thick. But even with the smaller disc I'm impressed that you managed to do that freehand. So I totally agree with Jesse regarding your surgeon status! :icon_bow: Really glad that my less nerve wrecking way to do it also worked... 
 
Yes I would like to have a copy of the reference photo to give that mod a try as well! I expect the hard part to be achieving the right shape while bending. I'm considering first creating the shape in wood and bending the aluminum strip around that, but maybe I should first give it a go without...

No worries - here we are;

Credit to the original source for this diagram.
2109fbb8a301aeb4d01ff19f920f8562.jpg

0253458a9cda6ea471a1d5ce53cda8a1.jpg

From memory, it wasn’t that difficult. Just do little bits at a time and keep checking the shape against the reference. :-)


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For today’s task I needed a vice, so I first had to correct a little mishap from earlier this week. :laugh1:

46619731951_8b905243bd_h.jpg20190105_131317

 

Here’s the new one, supposedly “heavy duty”. Let’s see... ;)

46619733361_d6a205c9bc_h.jpg20190105_150415

 

OK, now we’re ready for business again!

 

Trigger guard

As you may have guessed already from the above posts, today I made a more accurate trigger guard from a 2mm thick aluminum strip. Thanks Dan for supplying me with the template and reference picture! :duim:

 

To ensure that I would bend the aluminum to the correct shape, I decided to print the reference picture to the correct size for the DoopyDoo’s grip. I cut out the trigger guard shape and drew it onto a piece of wood:

46619731631_76b2487d72_h.jpg20190105_210333

 

I then used my jigsaw to cut out the shape, staying clear of the pencil line.

46619732301_902b3e524c_h.jpg20190105_191808

 

I removed the last bits with a big file. Here’s the result:

46619732961_9f2f2aff98_h.jpg20190105_190331

 

Bent the aluminum strip around the wooden shape. Since it would bend back a little, I had to take it off and manually bend a little bit further. After that it fits like a glove:

45705487765_790daa82fd_h.jpg20190105_191213

 

Time to fit the new trigger guard to the grip:

46619731351_03a006f22d_h.jpg20190105_210054

 

What do you think of the result, better than the DoopyDoo’s trigger guard?

 

Cheers! :pint1:

Edited by PatrickM
Typo’s...

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Wow!! Sheer genius approach! Looks really spot on. Like how you gauge by putting source material side by side, keep up the great work!

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