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EASY’s AM ARMOR ANH STUNT BUILD

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Good work, Dave. Making solid progress. :-)

Something worth looking at is the amount of excess plastic above and below the ammo packs on the belt. As below, you could easily get away with losing a few mm, if you wanted too. :-)

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Dan

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1MrXBAy.jpg

Thanks CableGuy. I just finished trimming them actually. Total span is 98cm now. Looks way better. Just found out I’m out of white 1” elastic for the drop boxes. Only have black left. Had such momentum going today. Been doing some fine detailing for now, cleaning up a few areas that need it like excess glue, filling in the wrong holes I made with ABS paste and so on. I’ll be adding those pics and posts to the sections of the build they belong in later. 

Right now I’m trying to decide…coffee or whiskey. 

 

Nice look and fit. 

Uc2Ykpx.jpg

 

I hammered the single cap rivets down to attach the ammo boxes to the canvass, cut the white elastic straps for the drop boxes and attached them, and glued the button covers over the rivets. 

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The snaps are on and holding perfectly. The drop boxes are lined up to the edge of the ammo belt. 

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Forgot the flash but you get the idea. 

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These are the specs for the holster location. 

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After measuring and marking I punched the holster hangers with my leather punch. 

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Then I marked the bet for the holes. 

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I punched them out with the leather punch too. Worked fine here. 

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CRL says Chicago screws are accepted so I’m using them, at least for now. 

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Just screw them in and it’s done. 

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Holds the E-11 nicely. 

Paw4UGt.jpg

 

That E-11 will be replaced with this one. IZtf7Uz.jpg

Edited by Easy
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Ab ammo belt button covers, home made. I was asked if this was possible so I tried it. 

 

22-23mm. 

a53ZxYd.jpg

 

15-17mmVBLVgpS.jpg

 

15mm snap button. 

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Drill a hole to hold it steady and flat. 

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Use a piece of the trimmed armour ABS. 

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Drill a hole about 17mm into a scrap piece of cover strip. This is the press piece. 

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Should fit around the button with a gap. 

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Mark the edge of the press to line up the work piece 

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Like this. 

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Tape the work piece down lined up on the line. 

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Heat it with a heat gun to soften it. 

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Then push the press down over it until it’s flat around the bump. 

fZwKvSF.jpg

 

Ready to trim. 

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I marked and cut a square out. 

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Use it to mark the button for cutting and sanding. 

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 This is a guideline to get close. xjmQOS6.jpg

 

Cut, measure and sand until it’s sized and square. 

LSgiyz5.jpg

 

One done. 

YnDXAhI.jpg

 

The next two go faster because you’re all set up. Hope this helps anyone who needs these. 

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Nice work, came out a treat, I use a similar method for making 3 or 5 button ab plates.

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Going to cover a bunch of stuff in this section. More trimming, strapping for the arms and legs. 

 

To start with I trimmed the return edges off the cod piece. It was quite large and very uncomfortable. I also cut the trailing piece down to the right size. The pic isn’t a great angle but you can see it’s neatened up. 

OpgDqrs.jpg

 

Better angles. This won’t dig in like it was when I walk. 

zZLHQ39.jpg

The

 

The butt plate is trimmed nicely too. 

ZyxPNMW.jpg

 

Seen from above looking down through the shoulder straps…I made and installed the strap that joins them. Two snaps in the back and in the front I used a split rivet and washer like movie worn kits. To do this I folded the elastic strap over once and ran my soldering iron through to make a hole for the rivet. Because I have the clamshell closed and latched I measured the length I need to the back, cut it and put holes in for the snaps. I used those to mark the hole st drill. Then I installed the snaps and put it in. 

cwfTG2T.jpg

 

To hang the thighs I’m using a belt made from a weed whacker shoulder strap. I have several so I’m doing suspenders for to attach to the ab and kidney plates as well. 

For the thighs I cut pieces to the width of the inner cover strip, one for each piece. 

j8ofiUW.jpg

 

I drilled holes for rivets. I’m using two on each for better holding power. I then burned holes in some 2” black elastic strapping, lined up to the drilled holes. 

xtXsk5y.jpg

 

I measured and marked both thighs like this. This is where the bottom of the rivet plate will go. I picked a lower mark to make a longer strap. This will allow a little more flexibility for bending and sitting. 

3in208T.jpg

 

E6000 and a few magnets again. 

VqrrRK2.jpg

 

The elastic straps are looped around the belt. You can make out a couple of rivets in the belt. This is an extra piece of strapping riveted on the inside that limit the travel of the loop so they won’t constantly try to move inward to the center. They are about 5” long so the loop can travel outward if needed. 

WMLxrnv.jpg

 

This is the suspenders left front buckle. The buckle strap is attached to the ab plate and the hanging straps cross over in the back then join to the kidney plate. The crossover is riveted. 

2XvMYit.jpg

 

A little better lighting. 

pZkInrh.jpg

 

It’s hard to see the crossover but it’s there. I’ll have to take some pics of it opened up and post them

here. 

siruyLZ.jpg

 

Mark strapping time. I’m using 1” black elastic and snaps with plates. 

RYyUpen.jpg

 

Plates have the male snaps, straps have the female with button tops. 

A4lsHMr.jpg

 

This is what I hammer them together with. 

IITDx0b.jpg

 

Shouldlook like this when done. 

KmuV5um.jpg

 

This is the top of the shoulder bell. Pic is upside down. I like lots of E6000 because this will be taking lots of stress while moving. 

KZmjjAE.jpg

 

I marked the lower bell snap locations with the length of my middle finger then applied lots of glue. Be sure to push it in and wiggle it to set it right in. Some glue cows up through the snap so I smear it around the inside to simulate a glue rivet. 

rB33q0j.jpg

 

I makes the left and right pieces in Aurebesh. I just thought it would be cool. GEEK!!

oRg58Va.jpg

 

Right and left bells marked. They differ slightly on the bottom. I set them so the fronts are equal and the short back on one is on my trigger arm (right). 

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For the shoulder to biceps I cut 5” straps and measured how far the snaps are when they are where I want them while wearing. 

To do that I held them in place and my wife marked the bicep piece at the bottom of the bell. 

I found the snaps centers at 3-1/4” apart so 7/8” in from the ends worked well. 

pMRa8jw.jpg

 

When marked at 7/8” on both ends, 3-1/4” spacing is exactly as planned. 

AOZ67TB.jpg

 

Now, remember that hole I made in the table for the snap to make the ammo belt button covers? I also use it to burn snap and rivet holes in elastic straps and webbing with the soldering iron. 

kH7fPNL.jpg

 

It makes installing them  snap…

LuwuCPM.jpg

 

You can use may things as a support for hammering snaps and rivets. I sometimes use this scrap of 4x4 wood block. 

efCalhl.jpg

 

Ready to make the second one. 

9ewbJ7q.jpg

 

With the bell strap glued in. The shoulder and bicep are ready. 

e87UJkF.jpg

 

The shoulder attachment is 3” ( or just under) and the snap spacing is 2”. This works for me to keep the gap nice and tight. 

A7SJ0RI.jpg

 

Follow the steps above and make two. 

I used 2” elastic lined up with the forward edges of the cover strips as shown in the locations reference. 

My dog Trooper (bottom of pic) is getting big, 9 months old now. 

78vL9Yk.jpg

 

Benson is not very flexible so it’s a chore to position the armour on him, but with some work I made it stay as it will hang on me. I fill it out a bit better so the alignment here is generally ok but much better on me because it doesn’t flop around. 

rTzLIgk.jpg

 

A shot from the rear. The bicep is sort of jammed to stay in position under the bell and the forearm hangs freely. It stays lined up properly. 

0kZ5BNC.jpg

 

Considering it’s a mannequin, and much thinner than me, the pieces look good together. 

2KEACz9.jpg

 

I didn’t trim the snap area enough so I redid it. 

dQg6z6g.jpg

 

After trimming and drilling it to fit the rivets I check the fit of the rivets. I drill the hole so the rivet fits snugly. A bigger hole would let it sit flat but I don’t want any movement. 

f0uOc3u.jpg

 

I use an oversized bit to taper the hole…

kXdzEkU.jpg

 

and then a Dremel bit to finish it. Both are done by hand, not with tools. 

zB7Cwei.jpg

 

Then the snap base sits nice and flat and still snugly. 

X4zdZo7.jpg

 

This is the split rivet in the front. This is how they were fastened in the movies. It’s little details that will help reach L3 Centurion. I may not get it but it won’t be for lack of effort. I’ll contin to make the touch ups needed to reach it. 

MUJkJG6.jpg

 

This will be much more comfortable than the way it was. 

C08TfEp.jpg

 

Note: 

i screwed up my sizing on my neckseal and am getting a new one. Teresa at Geeky Pink’s Phantastic Gaskets is replacing it at no charge even though it’s my mistake. (Didn’t account for my long hair going through it). Her stuff is the best and her customer care is like family care. You don’t get better anywhere. If you take nothing else from my build thread, take the suppliers and support I’ve mentioned throughout it, and the advice such as is seen throughout my build. 

Edited by Easy

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Hey Dave looking good.

 

Just a heads up, the area on your posterior you're using to connect to the Cod is incorrect, it should end where I've illustrated. This is by no means a deal breaker and it's is a very common mistake made with this armor.

 

Keep up the good work :duim:

 

posterior%20oops%202.png 

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On 4/15/2019 at 8:50 AM, ukswrath said:

Hey Dave looking good.

 

Just a heads up, the area on your posterior you're using to connect to the Cod is incorrect, it should end where I've illustrated. This is by no means a deal breaker and it's is a very common mistake made with this armor.

 

Keep up the good work :duim:

 

posterior%20oops%202.png 

Thanks Tony. I fixed it last night. Did the button and screws paint as well. Except for the neckseal I think it’s ready. All my adjustments and things I’ve changed because of the good support in here are posted in the thread sections that cover those specific build processes. Still considering trimming behind the knees. Going up stairs is tough, down is easy.

 

This is a long build thread. Hopefully it is good and will help future builders.

 

I’m going to spend Friday working on fitting it just right and taking some pics. I’ll use an older neck seal but it’s tight. If everything looks good I’m posting pics here and in the FB groups for feedback. 

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2 hours ago, phil said:

hi, have you removed the return edges on top of your thighs. ?? 

Yes I did. They were too tall for me. At some point I’m going to heat and roll them in. 

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A few little  touchups.

 

I removed the Chicago screws and replaced them with split rivets. 

NL582Za.jpg

 

A few dabs of white paint and these are perfect. 

1QNLJpK.jpg

 

I also touched up the bracket screws to be screen accurate. 

6FxUDko.jpg

 

Nice and neat. 

LphfDmM.jpg

 

Did all of them to make me happy 

YB3PwAX.jpg

 

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Nice work, with the thigh ammo strip the rivets should be more towards the corners, shouldn't be an issue for basic approval thought, depending on your GML

 

DSC02550.jpg

 

 

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3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Nice work, with the thigh ammo strip the rivets should be more towards the corners, shouldn't be an issue for basic approval thought, depending on your GML

 

DSC02550.jpg

 

 

THAT’s what is bugging me about the knee. Just couldn’t put my finger on it. Thanks.

 

i need to trim this off the inside…

NIydZko.jpg

 

and this off the outside. 

FUvSGEo.jpg

 

That’s what I’m looking for. 

2bHvM3h.jpg

 

Much cleaner look now. 

zKhZPTV.jpg

 

Thank you gmrhodes13. Sometimes a detached eye sees clearer. 

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This is my first time in the full kit. 

It’s as comfortable as I expected. 

ngHVsem.jpg

 

You'd think he’d have centered the TD. 

ELIMbru.jpg

 

c0fUlnd.jpg

 

PUKoBTs.jpg

 

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reaUTLS.jpg

 

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