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staermose

What the heehaw am I doing wrong?! (A DD pipe dream)

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Looks tasty. Let the fun begin... :popcorn:

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Just as I redrew the M38, I have also redrawn the Hengstler counter. I'm undecided on wether I shall have an Eagle logo on the side, or something more 'In Universe Styled'.
And the window on the rear that normally shows the numbers still need to be cut out. But I plan to place a small display screen here, and I still need to measure the size.
The front will have a mesh installed inside at the bottom, at the 'roundish' shapes, and the side that faces the Sterling as well as the bottom now has a grill pattern.
Both to better let out the sound of the speakers I want to install inside.

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Just as I redrew the M38, I have also redrawn the Hengstler counter. I'm undecided on wether I shall have an Eagle logo on the side, or something more 'In Universe Styled'.
And the window on the rear that normally shows the numbers still need to be cut out. But I plan to place a small display screen here, and I still need to measure the size.
The front will have a mesh installed inside at the bottom, at the 'roundish' shapes, and the side that faces the Sterling as well as the bottom now has a grill pattern.
Both to better let out the sound of the speakers I want to install inside.

zOktfxp.png&key=e0d74481621457883dea4bc26c5846e77effdec10a904b365e0f4ac69da72402

KwIRFpi.png&key=d41cfdb97767ee363ce5f1464fc72665668e4e5210e070ac1411f66bcfb78437

tO6tegg.png&key=f91d7dfe459ae952484116f4c6bcb93860d155e3c4a6b952318ffa1b2c5b1495
Great conceptual design for the hengstler counter ... makes allot of sense. I hope you get a nice surround sound housing the speaker this way!!

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Wow, the 3D scope and counter look amazing. Nice work on those. The speaker holes on the counter will really help when you get the speaker in there. 

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The parts for the M38 and the Hengstler are ready for print in ABS.
The the large rear scope ring will be printed in this batch. And replaced later with a resin printer. But two things still prevent this. I need to finish the lettering. Haven't decided on which style yet. And I have to have a smalle course in the resin printers, before I can use them.

JkM5s4h.png

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3D print are in progress.
They have been printed, and today I started prepping them.
I ran into a few problems, as I'm new to 3D printing, but got it solved.
I had the three tubes on the Hengstler in the print, but they got damaged when I tried to drill them out. So now they're brass tubing instead. Perhaps a little too large.

The M38's body will be covered with a cast texture, therefore I'm not putting too much work into cleaning it up.

And I'm getting more and more surplus, as the project evolves. Now the DD M38 and Hegstler I bought are just extra bits. Either for a later more static build. Or will be sold. 

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3D print are in progress.
They have been printed, and today I started prepping them.
I ran into a few problems, as I'm new to 3D printing, but got it solved.
I had the three tubes on the Hengstler in the print, but they got damaged when I tried to drill them out. So now they're brass tubing instead. Perhaps a little too large.

The M38's body will be covered with a cast texture, therefore I'm not putting too much work into cleaning it up.

And I'm getting more and more surplus, as the project evolves. Now the DD M38 and Hegstler I bought are just extra bits. Either for a later more static build. Or will be sold. 

3JbscF1.jpg&key=bc771f69cacde9fd1396afef5945d25925ade3dd482d78cfe084464d867f5734

FEk7yFh.jpg&key=dc3526a625fab6f60d170e03d2ba9361652b1e7d2f491c05d4885565b9f0363a

2bZQnhj.jpg&key=9fd9ff8bd8d4c441afdbccc4439b18003f18a071a6cd9a4eef4c44576ee2f08c

Yjln9Hw.jpg&key=f5aedf0ffff58b1e88491f469bead2fbfda46098ba99aaa72b990da7c508fe92

O2HPc97.jpg&key=f9f91050699ff1a9e32c85532d0efd98cf2f79b8e338a9993b2315df39a981d0
Really like your hengstler counter so far; the open slits below the sockets and the mesh resolution works well. You are quite the creative genius; as you trial by error, you are already getting to a good place, nice work!

Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

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The metal mesh has been installed in the front of the Hengstler. It'll be painted black, this is just to show it more clearly.

aOCaquE.jpg

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Work has commenced on the M38 as well.

The 3D print was sanded roughly. Just to know down the worst of the print lines.
wwMpv0T.jpg

Then I added the texture effect, to simulate it being cast metal.
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On top of the texture I sprayed it with a filler primer, just to knock down the effect a bit. After this dried, the tops of the texture was sanded lightly. To give it a softer appearance.
hpcvhcd.jpg

And finally it was spray painted with a flat black. After this I will add chipping in the paint to show some of the brass that supposedly is underneath. As well as other weathering effects.
R1C4IHg.jpg

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The main body of the M38 is painted.

7himArv.png&key=3d7a997ff7fbdb06fceb1f27d84557dcab152a9ec90cf9c5c65cff23dc95b765
 
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Heres an easy tip your way - some more brass in a few places will bring your scope up a few notches, for resembling the real-deal. If you so choose of course. See pictures 55397fc8d96053bb6057e2249366e81b.jpg

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The first thing I did when I started this project, was to order a resin kit from DD. Along with the M38, and the Hengstler as resin castings as well.
So far I have remade the M38, the Hengstler, and now the Power Cylinders.
And I will probably redo a few other things before I'm done.
I Wonder If I will have a complete DD resin kit as spares. And could just these into the E11 I set out to build? :D 

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That looks much more accurate than the resin piece from the DoopyDoo's kit. :duim: Are you going to add the wing stubs on the outsides?

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32 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Are you going to add the wing stubs on the outsides?

I thought about it. But the area for gluing these in place is very small, and they would easily break off. So I purposefully left them off.
Barely visible are also two supports I made underneath the cylinders. To make sure, if pressure was placed on them, they wouldn't break or bend.

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Oh that rear shot of the black plate really shows nice angles superb! Resisters are another option to consider if not done so...cheers!

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I needed more room for indoor plumbing. And had two options.
1. Use the DD resin I already have, and these have all the correct Sterling text and markings. But will have to be Dremmeled out.
2. 3D print, and loose the markings.

I chose the second option. Firstly, a lot of the text and markings will get covered underneath the Power Cylinders.
And a lot of them are sitting on the underside. They are cool, But I don't consider them a huge loss. Especially as I'm already removing texts from a bunch other places.

The Magazine is being printed without a huge part of the side wall. I will replace this with a piece of plastic sheet. Much easier than sanding print lines within the wave pattern.

mLw0tzV.png

 

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More progress.
The parts for the magazine and housing has been printed. It still needs a lot of scratch built details.
The Power Cylinders are fixed in place with screws. I know these are not originally there. But I'd Rather secure my parts as best as I can. The screws will be painted later, along with the weathering process.

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Good job, Jakob. You seem to have a very good printer. I expected a lot more texture on the surface but this looks smooth and clean.

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1 minute ago, T-Jay said:

Good job, Jakob. You seem to have a very good printer. I expected a lot more texture on the surface but this looks smooth and clean.

Thanks. It still need a lot of work though. The magazine is sanded and painted. The housing is not. The print lines are more evident IRL though.
And it is a plus that I can print it in black ABS.
The inside of the magazine is large enough for me to place the batteries that'll run all of the light and sound extravaganza!
I'm thinking of 3D modeling a battery holder that will fit perfectly inside the magazine, and make magnetic locking system.

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30 minutes ago, staermose said:

Personally I find the difference to the better.

Absolutely! The only thing I would suggest is to turn around that top cover on the magazine. The hole belongs to the other side.

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3 minutes ago, T-Jay said:

Absolutely! The only thing I would suggest is to turn around that top cover on the magazine. The hole belongs to the other side.

You're right, but I'll have to move the hole. It's an easy fix. The top cover isn't squared, but slightly askew. So it will only fit one way.
And thanks! :)

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