Katye's First Build Ever ANH Stunt WIP

[Katye]

I’ve been working on my kit for a few weeks now and always forget to do a work in progress. I’m at the fine tuning and want to make sure I get these items right.

 

For the knee plate- is it in the right spot

 

 

 

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[Harbinger[IPM]]

Can you shoot a side pic or two, that would help us in terms of where it is height wise, center wise it looks good to my eyes.

[Katye]

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[Katye]

Working on my boots now. Missed imperial boots wave so figured I’d try myself


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[Katye]

Is this correct for the right shin connection in the back?






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[TheSwede[TK]]

3 hours ago, Katye said:

Is this correct for the right shin connection in the back?

Hey

For 501st approval overlap construction is only allowed if the armor has the cover strip molded in and I can´t see that yours have, which armor is it?

 

Boots look great

[Katye]

So how would I do the Velcro in the shins then if it’s no overlap? Would I add the cover strip?

And it’s TK Armor.


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[HSM76[TK]]

The back of the shin has a 25mm cover strip. The only difference to other armour parts is, that it is only attached to the outer half of the shin shell.

This is my left shin (still in the making):

Edited October 29, 2018 by HSM76

[Katye]

Great so I still add the cover strip. That is what I am missing that makes it look funny. None of the videos I watched had them adding it so they must have had the coverstrip already on and just didnt mention it. 

[Katye]

Obligatory helmet on photo-



And the sides-







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[Katye]

Okay I know it’s not sitting right but I need help on how I the world to fix it.










Thanks for any advice...


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[lucnak[TK]]

Can I ask which vendor this kit is from? I don't recognize it.

 

Regarding fitting your torso, you may need to shim even further if you want to close the gap on the sides. Can you wear the ab/cod any higher? Then the chest plate would sit a bit higher and not leave as much black showing once you have your undersuit on. I think you may need to add some strapping to the butt plate at the sides/tighten the strap in the middle.

 

You also have a lot of extra flashing around the shoulder straps where they're glued onto the chest plate. I would recommend removing them and trimming those down and then regluing.

[Katye]

Yes the ab/cod can go higher but when i pull it up, the back/kidney/butt pieces bunch up. 

 

I have 3 snaps attached from kidney to butt, do I need to add more or move the outside ones closer to the edge of the butt piece?

 

The flashing you mean is to cut the plastic shoulder straps down some?

[Katye]

5 minutes ago, lucnak said:

Can I ask which vendor this kit is from? I don't recognize it.

 

Regarding fitting your torso, you may need to shim even further if you want to close the gap on the sides. Can you wear the ab/cod any higher? Then the chest plate would sit a bit higher and not leave as much black showing once you have your undersuit on. I think you may need to add some strapping to the butt plate at the sides/tighten the strap in the middle.

 

You also have a lot of extra flashing around the shoulder straps where they're glued onto the chest plate. I would recommend removing them and trimming those down and then regluing.

 

 

Yes the ab/cod can go higher but when i pull it up, the back/kidney/butt pieces bunch up. 

 

I have 3 snaps attached from kidney to butt, do I need to add more or move the outside ones closer to the edge of the butt piece?

 

The flashing you mean is to cut the plastic shoulder straps down some?

[lucnak[TK]]

Could you perhaps show a photo of what you mean by bunching up? Ideally, the kidney sits level. Right now, it's slanting downwards and I think that's making the butt plate overlap it on the sides. Sounds like you have enough straps but we can see the middle one stretching in that back photo.

 

Here's a reference photo regarding trimming your shoulder straps. You'll see that there is just a bit of extra material around the large tab that sits on the chest plate:

 

[Katye]

13 minutes ago, lucnak said:

Could you perhaps show a photo of what you mean by bunching up? Ideally, the kidney sits level. Right now, it's slanting downwards and I think that's making the butt plate overlap it on the sides. Sounds like you have enough straps but we can see the middle one stretching in that back photo.

 

Here's a reference photo regarding trimming your shoulder straps. You'll see that there is just a bit of extra material around the large tab that sits on the chest plate:

 

I don't have a picture of the bunching, but what happens is if i lift the chest and ab higher the back pieces drops and bunches up with the kidney piece. I will take a picture when I get home from work this afternoon and post it to show what I mean. 

 

Do I need shim the kidney piece more or attach shims to the ab piece to fix that spacing? I am trying to build to centurion level if I am able to with my body size. 

 

The stretching of the middle strap from the butt to the ab piece might be the shorts I am wearing. I will but the under suit on for the pictures this afternoon hopefully that will help

[lucnak[TK]]

Okay, having trouble picturing what you're describing. What vendor is this kit from? Again, I don't recognize it.

 

Regarding shimming, perhaps it would be best to get a DO to speak to that for L2/L3 certification. Paging @justjoseph63

[Katye]

It’s TK Armor. It’s super sturdy. I bought it cause I got two suits which I wanted and wasn’t wait listed on getting it.


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[TheSwede[TK]]

Hey

Great to hear you`re aiming for Centurion - let`s get you there shall we

 

First: for Centurion idealy there is no gap between kidney/ab (for EIB 12.5mm) meaning you will need bigger shims. Also for Centurion there`s only one seam so sanding and polishing is a must but easy enough to do

 

By looking at the pics I´m with Luc that you should raise the ab plate and that will help with alignment. 

 

Looking at this picture (ignore the blue lines for now) it seems as the ends of the back plate gets stuck on your body thus preventing the back to interact properly when you lift the kidney, causing the bunching you mention. I recommend a hot water bath to bend them slightly outwards.

 

Suggestion: after bending the back, start over with the strapping and I say first tape all the back pieces together using gaffa tape from the inside, put the tape close to the edges and two (or maybe just one) in the middle , as indicated by those crappy blue lines and with basicly no gap between the parts. Then see how it looks and feels when lifting the ab/cod to alligne with the top of the kidney as you can see below on Han (again - ignore that red line, not relevant here) 

Good luck and keep us posted

[Katye]

2 minutes ago, TheSwede said:

Hey

Great to hear you`re aiming for Centurion - let`s get you there shall we

 

First: for Centurion idealy there is no gap between kidney/ab (for EIB 12.5mm) meaning you will need bigger shims. Also for Centurion there`s only one seam so sanding and polishing is a must but easy enough to do

 

By looking at the pics I´m with Luc that you should raise the ab plate and that will help with alignment. 

 

Looking at this picture (ignore the blue lines for now) it seems as the ends of the back plate gets stuck on your body thus preventing the back to interact properly when you lift the kidney, causing the bunching you mention. I recommend a hot water bath to bend them slightly outwards.

 

Suggestion: after bending the back, start over with the strapping and I say first tape all the back pieces together using gaffa tape from the inside, put the tape close to the edges and two (or maybe just one) in the middle , as indicated by those crappy blue lines and with basicly no gap between the parts. Then see how it looks and feels when lifting the ab/cod to alligne with the top of the kidney as you can see below on Han (again - ignore that red line, not relevant here) 

Good luck and keep us posted

Great I will add use heat on the back plate and change out the shims.

I have been using a heat gun for heat for the arms and biceps, would a hot water bath work better?

[TheSwede[TK]]

12 minutes ago, Katye said:

I have been using a heat gun for heat for the arms and biceps, would a hot water bath work better?

It`s just less risk of damaging the parts, if you feel the heat gun works for you then keep using that

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

18 hours ago, lucnak said:

Okay, having trouble picturing what you're describing. What vendor is this kit from? Again, I don't recognize it.

 

Regarding shimming, perhaps it would be best to get a DO to speak to that for L2/L3 certification. Paging @justjoseph63

For basic approval, there is no requirement for shims on the ab/kidney connection.  For level 2 they cannot be more than half an inch wide, and an extra seam is allowed at the join.  For level 3, no gap and no visible seam the kidney/shim.  Looks like you already applied ABS paste to the shim seam, but went a bit overboard... not to worry, though, at least you know how to make it now!  These would be my suggestions, Katye.

 

1.  Since you are going to change out the shims, I would cut them behind the area where the ABS paste is now, as seen in the photo below. 

2.  Measure the new shims, and attach them to the kidney with backer plates for reinforcement, leaving the smallest gap possible.

3.  Make up another batch of ABS paste, but use it SPARINGLY...  add just enough to the seam to cover it.  Any excess will need to be sanded down smooth eventually, (more on that below) so don't make more work for yourself!

4.  Once you get them complete, I would concentrate solely on your torso connections, doing this one piece at a time from the top down, starting with the back.  Once you get one piece perfect, move to the next one.

 

This may take some time, but we are here for ya' every step of the way, sir.  You are doing a great job posting lots of photos, which help a LOT!  I am sure you want to get this complete, get approved and get out there trooping, but as I often say here, a TK build is more of a marathon than a sprint, and we want you to look your best!  You will get there, I assure you.

(GREAT job on those boots, by the way).  Keep up the great work and keep asking questions!

 

When sanding down ABS paste, use progressively smaller grit sandpaper.  I'm not sure how familiar you are with sandpaper, Katye, but the higher the number, the finer the finish.  I suggest starting with 120 and going up.  There are different materials used to make it, but I suggest using paper made with silicone carbide.  You can buy a complete set from Amazon for around 11 bucks which has 120 all the way to 7000!  (link below).  

I recommend masking off the areas you don't want sanded with painter's tape, this way you don't scratch parts of the kidney/shim that don't need it.

Once you get the area sanded down smooth, use a scratch removal system like Novus or similar to get it looking shiny.

 

 

Silicone carbide sandpaper set:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMY7X87/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CMY7X87&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=V2EWB1MNMKWPTW8KMCA6&pd_rd_wg=hj1RC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=Ukddn&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=e2bc1ba5-ddc3-11e8-aac7-712434b39254

 

Novus scratch removal/polishing set.  (The 2 oz. size will do just fine)

https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541069986&sr=1-5&keywords=novus+plastic+polish+kit

 

 

 

[Katye]

For basic approval, there is no requirement for shims on the ab/kidney connection.  For level 2 they cannot be more than half an inch wide, and an extra seam is allowed at the join.  For level 3, no gap and no visible seam the kidney/shim.  Looks like you already applied ABS paste to the shim seam, but went a bit overboard... not to worry, though, at least you know how to make it now!  These would be my suggestions, Katye.
 
1.  Since you are going to change out the shims, I would cut them behind the area where the ABS paste is now, as seen in the photo below. 
2.  Measure the new shims, and attach them to the kidney with backer plates for reinforcement, leaving the smallest gap possible.
3.  Make up another batch of ABS paste, but use it SPARINGLY...  add just enough to the seam to cover it.  Any excess will need to be sanded down smooth eventually, (more on that below) so don't make more work for yourself!
4.  Once you get them complete, I would concentrate solely on your torso connections, doing this one piece at a time from the top down, starting with the back.  Once you get one piece perfect, move to the next one.
 
This may take some time, but we are here for ya' every step of the way, sir.  You are doing a great job posting lots of photos, which help a LOT!  I am sure you want to get this complete, get approved and get out there trooping, but as I often say here, a TK build is more of a marathon than a sprint, and we want you to look your best!  You will get there, I assure you.
(GREAT job on those boots, by the way).  Keep up the great work and keep asking questions!
 
When sanding down ABS paste, use progressively smaller grit sandpaper.  I'm not sure how familiar you are with sandpaper, Katye, but the higher the number, the finer the finish.  I suggest starting with 120 and going up.  There are different materials used to make it, but I suggest using paper made with silicone carbide.  You can buy a complete set from Amazon for around 11 bucks which has 120 all the way to 7000!  (link below).  
I recommend masking off the areas you don't want sanded with painter's tape, this way you don't scratch parts of the kidney/shim that don't need it.
Once you get the area sanded down smooth, use a scratch removal system like Novus or similar to get it looking shiny.
 

 
Silicone carbide sandpaper set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMY7X87/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07CMY7X87&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=V2EWB1MNMKWPTW8KMCA6&pd_rd_wg=hj1RC&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=Ukddn&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=e2bc1ba5-ddc3-11e8-aac7-712434b39254
 
Novus scratch removal/polishing set.  (The 2 oz. size will do just fine)
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7136-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UD0GIG/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541069986&sr=1-5&keywords=novus+plastic+polish+kit
 
 
 

Great. I used the apoxie stuff that I saw on another thread where someone did the shims on their thighs. It doesn’t sand down very easily so I will have to figure something out. I bought two suits one to paint for fun and the other for 501st. So I might just replace the kidney and start over again with the shims and use abs paste but that scares me cause everyone says it can harm the kit. I started with a steal brush to sand down and then switched to 120 then 160 sanding blocks and about an hour of sanding.

Here are my thighs and biceps because I had to shim them too... I’m not done painting since the apoxie dries grey, but if you think I need to switch it to abs paste I will on the other set and put those aside for the fun set that I’m completely painting navy and gold.




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[justjoseph63[Staff]]

ABS paste is not that hard to make or use, and it will not harm your armor, I assure you.  Here are 2 links that will help:

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/42866-how-to-make-abs-paste/

 

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45555-howto-resize-armor-with-abs-paste-and-armor-scraps/?tab=comments#comment-625323

 

[Katye]

Okay, I will work on the other set of thighs, kidney, and biceps with abs paste to see if that makes it better. I have ordered the sandpaper and shine that you posted in the thread so hopefully all that helps. I made my white elastic between the chest and back shorter last night so maybe that will keep the back from dropping too low. 

 

I will post pictures once I get the kidney fixed to see if that makes it better. 

 

I ordered the thigh garter system so waiting on it to come in so once it does I'll post with the thighs on and go from there. 

 

thanks everyone for the help so far.