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Sharkbait's TFA Captain Phasma Build

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You've got this well in hand, nice work

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I asked my shiny brothers and sisters for good vibes and well wishes over the weekend, and apparently it worked! 


I got a ton done at my Build Party on Saturday, and even did more work on Sunday!  It’s a miracle! 


I decided that I have to have her ready for the chromer/painter by the end of the first week of October- he needs as much time with it as possible, and I just have to get it done.


I’m down to fiddly, tedious stuff, so I just needed to sit down and do it, because with a nose to the grindstone, it actually wouldn’t take that long.  In our terms- in costuming terms not that long, not in normal people terms.  The work pictured here is over three days.  About six hours on Saturday, about three hours on Sunday morning, and three hours on Tuesday night (sidelined by a bad day at work and a migraine on Monday). 


Some re-gluing/extra gluing of the ab boxes, a few were a bit loose (hard to glue):




I sanded down the wrist guards, but I apparently forgot to take a photo of it.  If I remember I’ll add it later. 


Seriously- invest in a belt sander.  Even the one from Harbor Freight.  It’s amazing. 


Cut out the chest opening and glued the greeblie onto the back.  I was debating, but I was right in the end: it looks way better with the deeper recess.  I had a bit of trouble with the Dremel getting into the corners, but I think I’ll just touch it up a bit with the epoxy.  From a distance of even two feet you really can’t tell now. 




I also added the chest greeblies, as you can see.  I hit them all with a couple of coats of Rustoleum 2x Primer- it filled in most of the little bubbles in the resin, and the final coats of paint of chroming will take care of the rest, if anyone but me can even see them now (I kinda doubt it).  The weather is cooling down (thank god), but it was just warm enough in the sun to get them to set. 




There’s a lot going on here.  Ankle spats are getting their inner strip (can’t be fully closed, else you’d never get them on), thighs are being prepped for greeblie attachment, shins are also prepped for the same, gorilla Tusken mask looking utterly creepy in the corner, my TK bin in the background for two new TKs building theirs to look at for reference, my weakness, Red Vines, placed strategically close to me while working.  Build party madness, I love it!


Shin ammo packs (no idea what they actually are, I’m calling them ammo packs, because they remind me of the thigh ammo packs on TKs). 






The shin greeblies seem to attach pretty easily, but the thighs had more of a curve to them, and the greeblies were straight.  I used the same technique I did for the V inner strip attachment bending- two sets of paint sticks on either side, proposed bend in the middle, heat gun (always moving), careful bending, cooling, then repeat for all four.






It worked surprisingly well, I was kind of afraid it wasn’t going to work at all.


I got a lot of stuff sanded down and edges polished up, as well.  You really can’t tell in photos, but it’s pretty obvious in person. 


Forearm greeblies are gluing:



Bicep greeblies are gluing:



Kitty break!



I was hosting the build party and working majority of Saturday, so I didn’t get to spend much time inside with her.  She missed me, clearly.  (She does that on her own, incidentally, she loves to lounge on my shoulder and be carried around the house, too).  I made it up to her later that night when she crashed out in my lap and we watched BBC Sherlock together. 


Next up, thigh holster attachment and greeblies!




That holster is a pain in the butt, not gonna lie.  It became clear it’s pretty much a three-step process, once you’re ready to actually attach and assemble. 


Due to the curve of the thigh, and the small edge for attachment of the base and weight of the resin piece, I’m going to use bolts for extra support. 


I’ve been hording screws, brackets, and hardware for years now- every time I had something with extra hardware, it went into the bin (I really am a Jawa at heart, apparently).  It took about fifteen minutes, but I was able to dig out a pair of matching length bolts and washers. 




I drilled a hole through the base, then marked it on the resin piece, drilled a bit there, and then used the base upside-down to mark and drill the corresponding holes in the thigh.  The holes in the resin piece are really just for an extra support and gluing, not for actual screwing in.  The washers give the nuts a bigger purchase base on the inside so they won’t pull through. 


Here’s the real start of the three-step attachment process:






Bolts through the thigh, giving the washers some glue for extra purchase.  You really need at least four hands to work on this part. 


Once that glue is dry enough (normally 48 hours, but since I’m gluing the whole thing again I’m going to work with it again in 24), then I’ll glue on the base, give it about 24 hours, then glue the resin holster on, and give it all a final 48.


I also hand sanded down the middle of the base just a bit, to take it from a total straight line to a bit of a curve in the middle so it wouldn’t be fighting the attachment to the curve on the ends. 


Then attaching it!  It was so easy, worked just like I planned! 


No. Not at all.  It was a disaster.  I didn’t put enough glue on both washers apparently so only the inner ones stuck, so the screws and top washers just slid right out and I needed six hands again to hold them in place.  I could get one end through all the parts then the other would pop out, or I just got glue everywhere. 


I have glue all over me, all over the thigh, all over the holster parts, I have smudges from paint from the interior of the helmet all over me and now the thigh.  My c-clamps aren’t deep enough to reach in on either side to hold it, and it’s too slick to get a purchase while using paint stir sticks as an extender/way to even out pressure.  My regular clamps also aren’t long enough.  Putting it on the table and weighting the inside didn’t work because it’s too slick and it just rolled all over the place.




But it’s done!  So good concept, just needed some better execution.  More glue on both washers, perhaps the base of the screw, and bigger/deeper c-clamps.  If I were earlier in the build (and day) I would have just gone to Home Depot and/or Harbor Freight and found what I needed and added more glue and set it aside.  But it’s 8 pm on Tuesday night, I have work in the morning, haven’t eaten dinner yet, and this thing has to be done by Friday.


I had a moment of panic when I thought I had the thighs flipped.  I kept looking at the knee curve and thinking I had it right, but what if I didn’t.  So I pulled out Izzy’s FOTK…  his are exactly the same shape on both the front and the back. 


I’m thinking this is another KB kit quirk- kinda like the top of one of the thighs being straight across, with no curve/cut out for a human butt whatsoever. 


The higher curve has to go to the front because it accommodates for the knee plate and the space where you see gasket around the top and bottom of said knee plate.  I had it right.


But, I slipped them on, and walking that back bit was just not curved enough for comfortable walking.  Since Izzy’s is very obviously curved on both sides, and the CRL is sort of ambiguous (the thigh, knee plate and shin are pretty close together in the full body photo and the individuals don’t really give you a solid view), I just decided to trim the backs up a bit. 


Proposed curve to trim:



Left: before trim, Right: after trim (unconsciously throwing the Live Long and Prosper, apparently):



That littlest bit of trim and curve made a world of difference- I can walk with no pinching at all, and the gasket should protect to a degree against that, too.  Also, I think it looks a little better being more uniform. 


I picked up some Gorilla Glue epoxy to fill in some spaces and gaps.  I was originally going to use Bondo, but: I hate Bondo.  It’s goopy.  It’s messy.  Its stench is legendary.  It sets way to quick no matter how little hardener you put in.  I don’t know what I’m doing and half the time end up making more work for myself in clean up.  I hate Bondo.  Plus, for the areas I was working with, having the putty consistency was going to be much easier and better suited for placement and smoothing. 


I picked Gorilla over JB Weld because the packaging specifically mentioned sanding.  I’m pretty sure they both could be sanded after hardening, from what I could tell they were basically identical just different brands.  Gorilla did say a work time of ten minutes, while JB was 25.  I kinda wanted 25, but I also figured 10 was better than Bondo’s 1 – 4 minutes if you’re lucky.  It gets harder to work with and less pliable towards the end, but it doesn’t lock up and become a brick like Bondo, so I’m calling that a win, too.  I hate Bondo, in case you couldn’t tell. 


I had sanded down the back/yoke connection to make it more even.  All I had to do was fill in the valley with the putty and smooth out the corner.  The putty worked just like it was supposed to and was pretty easy to work with.  I always try and wear gloves at first, but it never work and they rip and I end up taking them off halfway through.






It turned out pretty good!  I’m very happy with it.  I’ll sand it to make it smooth once it’s cured, but I think it will disappear once chromed/painted. 


Lastly I spray painted the inside of the helmet black:




It looks cool, it looks better than white, when kids (and short adults) look up they see darkness inside the helmet, not a prop made of fiberglass, and also the dark interior lets you get away with a less-dark lens, which is optimal for vision.


To Do List for the Phasma Phinish Line!

Before the end of the week:

One last round of fine sanding, where needed (pretty much done, but there’s always that one spot you missed)

Dust, wipe down, and remove any remaining excess glue (it will move from the garage to living inside once this is done)

Helmet clean up – touch up some of the grooves, a light wet sand across the whole thing, a bit of clean up in the mouth/nose area.  It came pretty close to ready out of the box. 


Before the premiere:

Acetone 3D print lines from blasters

Paint blasters

Or at least the F-11D, the SE-44C is, after all, TLJ, and just a fun addition.  But I plan do just do everything on them at once, to make it easy and not repeat steps unnecessarily. 

I also already have the quicksilver baton (also TLJ) so it’s not like I’m going to be short on things to occupy my hands. 


Whenever I get around to it:

Battle damage to prop helmet

Paint prop helmet

It’s now a prop, after all.    


The end… is in sight.  It’s actually quite anti-climatic and it doesn’t feel done in any way, but my to-do list is dwindling rapidly.  I guess it’s all fine-tuning, mostly, so you don’t see as much of a difference in the many piles of white plastic parts scattered all over the garage. 


I wanted to prep the strapping and stuff now, so it would just be an install job when I got it back from chroming, but I’m not going to have time.  And honestly it won’t take me that long anyway- I’ve done a whole lot of strapping now and I think I can knock it out in an evening or two, plus glue dry time. 


It looks like she’s gonna be done by the premiere!!! 

Edited by sharkbait
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All that freaking work on that damn thigh holster and...






Guess what I'm doing tonight, I guess...  I managed to screw in the screw a bit, too, to make it tighter.  Now I  have to figure out how to unscrew them and pry the thing off.  



Edited by sharkbait

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Weird things you say when you're a costumer: Oh hello, butt plate... I haven't seen you in a while...


The good news is I was able to fix the holster pretty easily- it came off without much trouble, and with no damage other than some glue to scrape off. It went back on about the same as it did the first time- a huge pain and four plus hands needed to really do it. At least this time I hadn’t been painting so there weren’t any paint smears to worry about.




I scraped and rubbed off excess glue in various places. My thumbs feel rubbed raw from all the rubbing and picking at glue. It reminds me of Peter Jackson saying they had so much chain mail made for the LOTR films, that the guys that did it just about rubbed off their fingerprints on a couple of fingers from linking it all together. I did a bit of fine sanding on a couple of edges, checked on seams and inner strips, basically gave everything a once over. Touched up a trim or two. Doesn’t look like much but will make a difference in the end.


One of the shin spats had shifted during gluing, and the seam was huge, so I pulled it apart and re-glued it. Annoying, but just another symptom of how my week is going. I checked it again before I went to bed and it stayed in place this time.


The belt boxes still honestly confuse me, but I’m just going to send them all off to the chromer/painter and then figure them out later.



In my review and digging through the pile of parts, I found that I had forgotten about the upper boot spats- they weren't the right shape out of the box.  They're supposed to be rounded, mine are just straight.  This is a pretty early KB kit, so it's entirely possible they've worked out some of these things and quirks in the newer versions (they've had at least two versions since mine, not sure after that).  




So I marked it up and trimmed them real quick.  I used the first off-cut to mark the next ones.  






Well look at that... she's actually fully assembled...  And yet, she looks not a whole lot different than she did in a huge pile of parts form BBB Day.  




Now it's time to get all the dust and grime off from being in the garage for all this time.  (My town is a dusty place on a good day, and the garage is terrible, no matter how many times I use the blower to clean it out).  


The weird things you do as a costumer:


Bath time for Phasma!




I figured the bathtub was the most efficient way to clean off all the parts. I was going to just take the hose to it, but outside has dirt and grit and dust. And cobwebs. Because I stop cleaning those up in September because I can just call them “Halloween decorations” for the next two months.


I did the helmet clean up by hand- I don’t think fiberglass would react badly to water, but I’m not taking any chances with dropping it, for one. I’ve taken water to ABS before with issues.


She's now drying off across my guest bathroom... which amuses me more than it should.  








And that’s… that’s actually it. She’s ready. I can’t believe I’m saying those words- but she is, she’s ready for chroming!



Edited by sharkbait
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She's going to the chromer tomorrow!!!  


Don Valenzuela of Don Valenzuela's Autobody in Clovis is going to be doing it for me.  His main business is autobody painting and work, but he's also an artist and has done beautiful logos for some local wineries.  


I'll be dropping her off after work and then... then I can work on all the other stuff in preparation for when she gets back.  Gotta wrap up cutting out all the fleece for the cases I'm making for all the parts while I still have them tonight.  

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Looking forward to seeing everything painted

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Well, look at that…




The lighting in my living room is terrible, so it's really not showing it off well.  There is a fuzzy but noticeable reflection when outside in sunlight and in better, more direct light.  It's much more impressive looking in person than here.  I think it's perfect for TFA!


They were still working on the back/yoke, ab/kidney, one of the boot spat sets, and the helmet, but I picked up the finished pieces!


I had a marathon weekend of trooping and setting up (six troops in three days, two on Friday, three on Saturday, and one on Sunday; plus setting up for the parade that was the third troop on Saturday, and setting up at our local theater for ROS).  I have neither the energy nor the time to even think about this, but yet, I must press forward. 


The weather is awful for painting, but all I have left is the Alclad.  I mixed up some custom champagne from silver and gold, and I’m happy with it.  I just now have to get up my neve to hang the blasters up somewhere and get to town with the airbrush machine. 


(I’ll add a photo here later or in the next post, whichever I remember to do).


I cut out a bunch of Velcro and elastic pieces for the connections.  Elastic for the hand guards, wrist guards, boot spats, internal strap for the fingers (to attach to the palm of the glove, so if they come off, they’ll just dangle), and cod/butt connection.  Velcro for the shin closures, ankle spat closures, some for the chest to yoke (hopefully it will have enough edge to attach to, we’ll see), and inside the biceps (upper and lower), forearms (upper), thighs (lower) and shins (upper) for the gasket attachments. 


I’m going to use the gasket harness to hold up the thighs (I believe this is what its’ designed for- it’s the right length and the right position, so I’m going with it).  I’m going to get some suspenders to hold up the ab/kidney.  I wanted to get some fun special ones, but right now, I’m just getting whatever I can find for now, then I’ll go on Etsy and find some cute personalized ones (I’m thinking either Ravenclaw or Doctor Who) when I have more time.  I just want to finish right now.  Upgrades and mods will be inevitable anyway, so might as well do them later. 


I just about tore myself apart going over how to work on my lifts…. I added some material to the bottom so it wasn’t as steep of a drop, I was looking into expanding foam like Wookiee feet to add a backing for the slant in the back… I even bought a can of expanding foam.  And then when I was just so frustrated I didn’t know which way was up, I found some elevator shoes with internal lifts on clearance and just bought them.  4.4’’ of lift, between internal and heel.  Should have just done this in the first place, but I was trying to keep the cost down (only spent $40 total on the lifts, so not a huge loss, I can use the boots for something else).




Another learn from my mistakes- if you want serious lift, just get shoes made for that purpose.  They also make these in much less extreme lift (I think about 1.5’’), though for that little I’d do the inserts and use a cheaper shoe.  The lifted shoes are kind of expensive, but not bad as far as good and specialty shoes go.  Also like such things, they have a big price range- anywhere from $100 - $400. These are Calto (I've heard that brand thrown around before, appear to be well-thought of).  


At our last build party of the  year (November), I did manage to mod and ¾ paint my blasters:


There were a few subtle modifications needed to convert the F-11D to the F-11D Phasma carries- remove part of the trigger guard (she’d never get her finger in there with the finger armor with it, and honestly, even without it’s close), and remove the second part of the grip (again, she can’t bend her fingers well, so the smaller grip the easier she could grab it). 


I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut off both pieces, then filled in the open space with epoxy putty (I’m using Gorilla brand). 


It’s quite subtle, but after you do it it’s install like “That’s Phasma’s blaster!” v. “That’s an FOTK blaster.”  At least for nerds like us.  I mean I got called “Superman” at a recent troop (as a TK… specifically Reindeer TK, so I had my blinking red noise and antlers), so there’s that.


Instead of acetone knocking down the 3D print lines, I used filler primer, per a suggestion from a Squad-mate.  Worked great.  There were just a couple of steps in the order I did them that I should have done differently, but it’s too late and not worth it for me now. 










What I did:

Used liquid latex to mask off all areas that were going to stay black

Paint entire thing with filler primer

Paint entire thing with glossy black. 

Paint entire thing with Alclad (next step, not yet completed as of now)

Remove latex (will be done after Alclad)


What I should have done, and what I recommend doing:

Paint entire thing with filler primer

Paint entire thing glossy black

Use liquid latex to mask off areas that remain black

Paint entire thing with Alclad

Remove latex


My original thought process was the black parts that are staying black are already black, save myself the step of re-painting them black.  Except I could have just masked them off AFTER and I still would have done the masking only once, gotten the fillable primer on there to knock down their 3D print lines and probably a slightly nicer black gloss (though they basically disappear with the rest, because your eye tricks you, and they were quite subtle to begin with.  Plus, there’s not a lot of black on the blaster, so you don’t really notice).  But, like I said, not worth taking off the latex, painting it black again, letting it dry in this cold weather, re-applying latex, and then airbrushing it.  If I weren’t on a deadline, maybe.  Still a maybe. 




And FYI, you burn through this stuff pretty quick- so buy more than one can.  There was an emergency Home Depot run in the middle of the build party.  










Ignore the weird textures- that's where the latex is.


What’s left to do:

Glue in all Velcro and elastics

Install lens in helmet (once received)

Install helmet liner (once received)

Make and install helmet fans (can make fans now)

Get suspenders, and install once ab/kidney received

Glue belt boxes together and attach to belt

Make magnet closure for ab/kidney (armor isn’t back, but I can make the structure and glue it in once the armor’s back)

Add corresponding Velcro to yoke (once received)

Glue magnets into armor fingertips

Sew magnets into glove fingertips

Tailor in gloves?  I seem to recall them being a bit big in the fingers (I have long, thin hands),  but I couldn’t find them last night because I lost my TK gloves and they’re the same (Nomex) so I yanked Phasma’s and totally forgot until right now.  Would you like a metaphor for how my week has been going?  There you go. 

Order Nomex gloves ASAP (trying to remember my size- man my eBay purchase history is WEIRD)

Airbrush blasters

Make various snap plates for connections, and what connections I can make now with the parts I have


Probably something I’m forgetting but that’s most of it!

Why does it seem like less when written out like that?

Edited by sharkbait
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Last night's progress!




It doesn't look like a whole lot, but it was.  That was a good three hours worth of work.  E6000 is famous for oozing, but man, it was just being awful last night.  I ended up scraping a lot off the table and using it rather than squeezing the tube because there was so much there.  


I glued Velcro to:

The top and bottom inside of the biceps, for gasket connections

The top of the forearms, for gasket connections

The bottom of the thighs, for gasket connections

The top of the shins, for gasket connections

The shins for closure seam

The ankle spats for closure seam


I also cut out little pieces of ABS (from scraps) to act as a sandwich for the elastic connections- underside of armor piece, elastic end, ABS scrap.  The elastic will stay in place better is stress areas (constant on/off of hand guards, wrist guards, etc.).  Pictures of that when I glue the elastics in


I ran of out of time, ran out of glue, ran out of clamps, and ran out of energy.




I am confident I used every drop possible out of that tube of E6000.


My elevator shoes should arrive today!  Got lucky- the company is based in Arcadia, which is only about 3.5 hours away from me, and they shipped same day.  


Tonight I will glue in all the elastic connections-

Hand guards

Wrist guards

Knees?  (Debating between elastic wrap around or Chicago screwing them into the gaskets for semi-permanent attachment)

Boot spats (toe)

Heel spats

Fingers to each other to base of glove


And glue in the magnets into the finger tips



Top boot spat (not yet back from painters)


I also will make various snap plates, I can't make all the connections yet, but I can at least get some of the base plates gluing and assembled ready to go.  

Snaps on shoulder bells to yoke (yoke not back)

Snaps on cod and butt for cod strap (all in hand)


I'm thinking Velcro attachments for the thighs- so cut some more Velcro and glue to the inside of the thighs and sew to the strap on the harness.  My TK is snaps, and it works, but I don't see why Velcro wouldn't also work.  I can always rip off the Velcro and add snaps at a later date if needed.  


Belt boxes to belt- Chicago screws through the back box and through the belt.  I have enough pieces and still have Izzy's FOTK in my garage for sizing and placement over the missing ab/kidney.  I'm a little concerned about the belt to the ab- mine doesn't have a good lip to Velcro or otherwise attach the belt.  Worst case scenario I get it as tight as I can and hope it does't slip (no holster to weigh it down at least) for now.  Later I think I'll cut off the tiny, not flat lip from the ab, and add a new, flat backing piece to which I'll add Velcro or snaps to attach the belt.  I'm going to glue the head of the Chicago screw into the inside of the inner belt box, then glue the inner box into the outer box- they're not going to be functional anyway.  


I ordered gloves, they've shipped already so they should be here soon.  In the meantime I'm taking back my Phasma turned TK turned Phasma again gloves and using those.  I can still wear them with the TK with magnets in the fingers if needed in the meantime (for the premiere I plan to wear as many of my costumes as I can, as many times as I can- it's tradition, and I have four whole days to do it).  


I also ordered more magnets- One of the dang finger magnets broke from connecting with another.  I also am using the ones I had planned to use for the ab/kidney closure for clamp magnet purposes, and don't feel like prying off the blue tape I have on them.  And then some more rounds just in case the rectangle ones don't work for the closure.  Plus, you can never have too many magnets.  Thank you, Amazon Prime- they will be here tomorrow.  


I'd like to say I could then also airbrush the blasters but I know the above will take up all the time I have after work tonight, so that will have to be Thursday's job.  Gonna be down to the wire but I think I can make it!

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21 hours ago, sharkbait said:

I am confident I used every drop possible out of that tube of E6000.

You are the E6000 Tube's worst nightmare !!  :laugh1:   Great Build !!!  :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

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You know you're in the end stages of a build (or project) when you start going to the hardware store daily.  Or maybe also the beginning, too.  Well, I always did say it's not a real project until you have to make at least two trips to the hardware store.  Bonus points if they're in the same day.


I got nearly everything done I wanted to get done last night, and since my goal was a bit ambitious, I'm calling that a win.  I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to glue the elastic connections into both the finger armor and tip armor, because of the magnets also gluing into the finger tips, and I was right.  I will be able to glue the finger tips onto the elastic tonight, since the glue has set enough the magnets won't shift anymore.  I also didn't get to sewing in the other magnets into the gloves.  But I also hate hand sewing and avoid it at all costs, so I'm not that upset about it.  


Otherwise, last night's work:




A whole lot of gluing, some sewing, some planning, and thank god for sewing clips (the little colorful clips).  Corresponding Velcro glued or sewn in (belt box covers, chest plate, thigh holders), snap plates made and glued in (cod/butt connection and shoulder bells), elastic straps (wrist guards, hand guards, toe boot spats, heel boot spats, knees).


My shoes arrived!




They're actually pretty comfortable, and I will be able to stand in them at length which is obviously very important.  They fit!  For reference, I used Calto's size chart and measured my foot- I normally wear a Men's 10 (Women's 12), and I was spot on to their Men's 10, per measurement and now fit.  So I'd say they run true to size, and/or at the very least true to their size chart (what a concept, I wish more vendors were like that).  I wish I had some more ankle support, so I'd recommend, if you can find it, a boot version, though if you can't these are a valid option.  Because they're men's shoes and while my foot is long, it's narrow and not particularly high, when I walk the shoe doesn't come with my foot when I lift up- the heel slides off.  So I made a quick elastic loop to slip around the base of the boot and around my ankle.  Problem solved.  (I feel like I learned this from a motorcycle trick, but what application that would have on a motorcycle I have no idea- maybe I was just inspired by the strap on gear shift toe guards or stirrups on pants to  keep them down).


I got the belt done!




The other two soft pouches with covers are not on there, but I have them, have sewn the needed Velcro to one, and the corresponding Velcro is gluing to the plastic covers.  They just slide onto the belt so they can be added at any time.  I used Chicago screws to attach them- punched holes in the back box and belt with my soldering iron, put glue on the inside around the holes so the inside part of the screw would stay in place, and screwed in the second half from the back of the belt into them.  I also glued the inner boxes into the outer boxes, since they're not going to be functional anyway.  


This finger armor mess just looks hilarious:




To make the finger connection contraption, I took a piece of Velcro, sewed five strips of elastic to the back of it, and then glued each of those elastic strips into the base of the fingers.  I will do the same with the base of the finger tips tonight.  This creates a stretchy connection between each of the parts, so that I can pull them on and off, but they will stay in place when on.  And, if one does manage to get bumped or otherwise come off, it will dangle as the Velcro will be stuck to its corresponding piece on the palm of the glove.  I can also take them off to wash the gloves (which I do every now and again, because those can get gross, especially after summer troops).  I stole the idea from @LadyInWhite- it's been a couple years so I have no idea what connection material she used, but the concept is the same.  


Due to the placement of the corresponding Velcro, I'm going to have to hand-sew it into the palm.  Lots of hand sewing in my future tonight.  


I decided on trying out suspenders to hold up the ab/kidney- I snagged a pair at a local Boot Barn.  They seem sturdy, hopefully they'll hold up.  I think I'll skip the neat ones as they're probably more decorative than heavy-duty and I want service over look.  I want to avoid putting extra stress on the armor itself as much as possible, so I plan to get some sort of bracketing and glue it into the ab/kidney, and then clip the suspenders onto that.


This is the custom champagne color I plan to use to airbrush the blasters- it's made with a mix of Alclad Chrome and Gold, with more chrome than gold.  What's kind of interesting is when it settles, they split into their respective colors.  But they mix easily and well, and the separation in the bottle when sitting is normal, so I'm thinking it won't be an issue once painted.  I probably should have noted how much of each I used, so I could replicate it, or at least help out a future Shiny Sister, but I made this randomly at a build party in November, and I didn't write it down.  Roughly it was 3:1 silver to gold.  I used pipettes to transfer from the original bottles to this one.  So about three pipettes of silver and one of gold, then just tweak it until you're happy.  




To to (tonight):

Sew magnets into glove finger tips (inside so they don't shatter each other)

Sew Velcro onto glove palms

Glue elastic connection into finger tip armor

Airbrush blasters

Yoke snap plates for shoulder bell connections (so they can be ready to glue in once back/yoke is received)

Make helmet fans

Velcro to top of cod for attachment to belt, most likely

Velcro to top of butt plate for attachment- CRL says to kidney (well ab, but it's the kidney back part of the kidney/ab, so technically kidney), but I'm thinking placement might be belt.  I'll hold it up and see, either way. it's getting Velcro

Corresponding Velcro to belt for cod

Possibly corresponding Velcro to belt for butt, or maybe it will go on the kidney and we'll hold off 'cause I don't have that part back yet


When I get the rest of the parts:

Cut and glue in elastic connection into final boot spat

Glue in helmet liner

Install fans (I will tape them in if needed, that's my current "temp" fix on one of my TK ones)

Install lens

Corresponding Velcro to yoke for chest connection (already glued into chest)

...is that really it?  I think it is.  Wow.


I'm really at the point where I don't care if y'all have to duct tape me into her- she's getting worn and debuted at this premiere!  They sell silver duct tape, right?  :laugh1:  It worked for Izzy at TFA with his FOTK!  (Half a roll of white duct tape every time he wore it, no joke.  Good times.  Actually it was a great adventure, I got pretty good at it by the third time, too.)

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Well in looking back at my list I didn't get nearly as much done last night as I planned to.  But it took just about as long and I quit a bit early because I was running into walls and couldn't think straight.  It's been a rough week, the weekend was busy and while great, stressful and tiring.  I just want a break from everything.  


I started to hand sew in the magnets, and before I could even get the first stitch in, I knew I couldn't do it.  It was just going to be a huge pain and more trouble than it was worth.  I decided to glue them in, instead.  Because they're going in on the inside, I think they'll hold or at least hold enough that they'll be workable.  


I had to put the fingers far apart to they couldn't connect with each other while they were drying:




Similar with the Velcro patch on the palm- Velcro is hard to sew through by hand, it's thick and tough.  I just maneuvered, shoved, folded, and twisted it into my machine and got them sewn on that way. 


Gloves are now done.




I managed to get the Velcro glued onto the cod (which apparently I forgot to take a picture of), corresponding sewn onto the belt (again, out of it, no photo), and glued to the butt plate.  I tried several times to figure out the corresponding placement on the belt, but I think I might need the ab/kidney first to get the placement right.  The belt will fit differently over that than without.  The cod is fairly easy because it's directly below the two horizontal boxes, and I know where those go.  I might try the butt plate again tonight, but I might also just wait until the ab/kidney is back.  I'm going to call the place tonight and check on the status- it's been a full week now since I picked up the last parts, so I don't feel like I'm bugging them too soon.  And as of yesterday, the premiere is one week away.  


To to (what I set out to do and what I managed):

Sew magnets into glove finger tips (inside so they don't shatter each other)

Sew Velcro onto glove palms

Glue elastic connection into finger tip armor - I guess I forgot about this.  Oops.  

Airbrush blasters - I didn't forget, I just gave up for the night.  It was for the best.  

Yoke snap plates for shoulder bell connections (so they can be ready to glue in once back/yoke is received)

Make helmet fans - I forgot about these, too

Velcro to top of cod for attachment to belt, most likely

Velcro to top of butt plate for attachment- CRL says to kidney (well ab, but it's the kidney back part of the kidney/ab, so technically kidney), but I'm thinking placement might be belt.  I'll hold it up and see, either way. it's getting Velcro

Corresponding Velcro to belt for cod

Glue magnets into lens in prep for corresponding magnets into helmet

Possibly corresponding Velcro to belt for butt, or maybe it will go on the kidney and we'll hold off 'cause I don't have that part back yet - Decided it does go onto the belt, but the exact placement so it sits right is currently unknown.  I did cut the corresponding Velcro, so it's ready to go when I get it all back. - Going to do this when I get the parts


When I get the rest of the parts:

Cut and glue in elastic connection into final boot spat - I could probably figure it out pretty easily now, but it will take about 10 seconds, so it's not a real worry.

Glue in helmet liner - Shouldn't take too long, I've been playing with the placement on my other prop one to get an idea of where I want it.

Install fans (I will tape them in if needed, that's my current "temp" fix on one of my TK ones) - either glue in Velcro or tape it, either way won't take long.

Install lens - Add corresponding magnets to helmet

Corresponding Velcro to yoke for chest connection (already glued into chest) - It's cut, just needs to be glued on.

Edited by sharkbait
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