ocmano[TK] Posted September 10, 2018 Report Share Posted September 10, 2018 So, painted and added my AB plate buttons from the parts. Noticed they looked a little different than some other people's submissio ns in that the one's I'd installed had a bit of a rise on them. Now was I supposed to trim these flat? I already glued these on like this. Am I screwed or are they fine as is now? Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger[IPM] Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 You will want to remove the return edges on both of those plates. They should ideally look like this: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Hiya,Don’t worry - mistakes happen. Hopefully you’re using a glue like E-6000 which is easily removed. Just gently remove the parts and trim the edges. If you want nice straight lines, use the score and snap method with a metal straight edge as your guide. :-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocmano[TK] Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Actually, orginally used Zap a Gap, so was really worried about popping them off. Went ahead and did it anyways, and it wasn't bad! *Whew*Trimmed the plates and have them on now drying with E6000. Feeling very lucky. Minor 'weathering' but the belt will cover most of it.Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableGuy[Admin] Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 Good save. :-) As per the above reference pic, you could trim the button plates a little more, with squarer edges, if you wanted to go for all out accuracy. ;-) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justjoseph63[Staff] Posted September 11, 2018 Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 1 hour ago, ocmano said: Actually, originally used Zap a Gap, I would steer clear of using the Zap a Gap for a few reasons,, Aaron. I used it in a few areas on my first build, and found that it can get brittle over time and things can pop apart (like my calves). If it drips on your armor, it is danged near impossible to get off without sanding, buffing and then polishing. Also, once you glue something together, it's a done deal... (You really lucked out in this case with the ab plates). Yes, it takes more time to use E-6000 and there is clamping involved, but there is a good reason we use it. It has some flexibility and can actually be removed in many cases if you make a mistake. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocmano[TK] Posted September 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2018 9 hours ago, justjoseph63 said: I would steer clear of using the Zap a Gap for a few reasons,, Aaron. I used it in a few areas on my first build, and found that it can get brittle over time and things can pop apart (like my calves). If it drips on your armor, it is danged near impossible to get off without sanding, buffing and then polishing. Also, once you glue something together, it's a done deal... (You really lucked out in this case with the ab plates). Yes, it takes more time to use E-6000 and there is clamping involved, but there is a good reason we use it. It has some flexibility and can actually be removed in many cases if you make a mistake. Yeah have both. Thought I'd try using Zap-a-Gap on this part since it seemed pretty straight forward. Used E6000 on about everything else. Considering I hadn't trimmed the part correctly, kinda glad that Zap-a-Gap was so brittle. It popped right off. Using E6000 to put it on, correctly now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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