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Mr_Fahrenheit

AP Armour - Trimmed - ANH Centurion - First Build Thread

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Like stated if the bicep parts will fit without the raised ridges you should completely trim them off to match movie original and overall look, on many the biceps look too big they should flow with the forearms.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited by ABS80
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BTW  for the strips the glossier white should be face up, you will notice one side is off white, less shiny and has little dimples so that side should be glued face down.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited by ABS80

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10 minutes ago, ABS80 said:

Like stated if the bicep parts will fit without the raised ridges you should completely trim them off to match movie original and overall look

Yeah, they don't fit without the raised edges, but I think I've figured out my solution for that. I'm now trying to figure out if I should taper the gap from the lower to the upper parts of the forearms, or not. I didn't explain it well, so what I'll do is cut some 15mm strips, clamp them on for both options, and post them back up here. It may help with that visual.

 

4 minutes ago, ABS80 said:

BTW  for the strips the glossier white should be face up,

Phew. That's what I've been doing as it just looks nicer hehe. Thanks, Mark!

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Phew. That's what I've been doing as it just looks nicer hehe. Thanks, Mark!

Regarding your “tapering” from the wrist (to accommodate your hands) to a tighter fit by the forearm- it sounds this would make a more “snug” fit. I’m curious as to how large the gap at the wrist end would be in comparison at the forearm. If it’s just a matter of a couple mm between the two, I’d keep the gap the same, So that your cover strips stay the same. Otherwise if it’s a big difference and you cut a 15mm strip, you’d see the strip covering part of the gap by the wrist and fully covering the gap by the forearm. Send the pics and we’ll tell you which works best.


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1 hour ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Regarding your “tapering” from the wrist (to accommodate your hands) to a tighter fit by the forearm- it sounds this would make a more “snug” fit. I’m curious as to how large the gap at the wrist end would be in comparison at the forearm. If it’s just a matter of a couple mm between the two, I’d keep the gap the same, So that your cover strips stay the same. Otherwise if it’s a big difference and you cut a 15mm strip, you’d see the strip covering part of the gap by the wrist and fully covering the gap by the forearm. Send the pics and we’ll tell you which works best.

 

Here's the size of the ridge that would be there if i kept it consistent from lower to upper forearm. There would be about 5.5mm or ridge visible on both sides of the cover strip for the entire length of the forearm.

S7Epsvc.jpg

 

And here is what I mean about a "tapered" approach. It would have 5.5mm of ridge at the lower part (close to the hand), and then 0 ridge by the upper part:

oJqt2Ai.jpg

 

Thanks for all of the help, everyone. It may not seem like it, but it's coming along! haha

 

 

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  Here's the size of the ridge that would be there if i kept it consistent from lower to upper forearm. There would be about 5.5mm or ridge visible on both sides of the cover strip for the entire length of the forearm.

S7Epsvc.jpg&key=3fc6913748e4edbca47d3e9f23a0dccfdb824640089b18e0a92ccf4bbb17e26d

 

And here is what I mean about a "tapered" approach. It would have 5.5mm of ridge at the lower part (close to the hand), and then 0 ridge by the upper part:

oJqt2Ai.jpg&key=fa11c64a99598c5651782e4439395a28d5110ecec3b37cfb7de72e832f24bf3e

 

Thanks for all of the help, everyone. It may not seem like it, but it's coming along! haha

 

 

 

Hmm, I think I would go with uniformity and have the same size ridge. But again, what size are the cover strips? 15mm? I’d say go a couple mm wider so it isn’t as obvious. I still don’t understand why you have this much of a ridge. Are you a power lifter or something and needed the extra space? Also, do you have return edges at your wrists still? At the higher levels, you need to remove the return edges at the wrists. Here’s a couple pics of my wrists: 3b7c1a7f39933628757949c390549f16.jpg14a4fca064066f40c974f43762b5757e.jpg

 

No return edges- makes it easier for your hand to come out the bottom, and is Centurion build accuracy.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Also, do you have return edges at your wrists still? At the higher levels, you need to remove the return edges at the wrists.

Here's a photo of the opening closest to the wrist. The kit came pre-trimmed, so there isn't a return edge, though I could probably shave it down another mm or so.

tAuUJPP.jpg

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19 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

If I don't angle it, it won't fit as well in the upper area, but I could also pad that. I feel like this is the right way, but just wanted to check to see if others ran into this while I browse the forums.

I wouldn't angle it - it would look funny.  Padding does a great job of keeping things fitting nice.  All depends on how much room you have - I had the opposite issue - large at the wrist and tight at the elbow.  I was able to get away with reshaping the elbow end a bit with a hot water bath. 

 

Are you planning to use inner coverstrips on your arms?  This helps strengthen areas where the seams are not butted up against each other.

 

The build is looking great.

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On 11/27/2018 at 10:45 AM, wook1138 said:

Are you planning to use inner coverstrips on your arms?  This helps strengthen areas where the seams are not butted up against each other.

Yes. I've actually set the forearms and the biceps now and added the inner cover strips and everything seems to be fitting quite snug.

 

I'm looking up elastics to buy online and could use some help. I've seen some resource threads, and found this information:

Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.

 

What I would like to know is, if you buy a pack of 2-inch wide elastic, can you cut it to a 1-inch wide? or will it cause the elastic to fray and fall apart?

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41 minutes ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

What I would like to know is, if you buy a pack of 2-inch wide elastic, can you cut it to a 1-inch wide? or will it cause the elastic to fray and fall apart?

Depending on the quality it might work but I wouldn´t risk it, I actually just took some 2 inch and cut it in half to try and it seemed ok but have no idea for the longterm so I recommend getting 1inch :salute: 

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Yes. I've actually set the forearms and the biceps now and added the inner cover strips and everything seems to be fitting quite snug.
 
I'm looking up elastics to buy online and could use some help. I've seen some resource threads, and found this information:
Elastic-  1 inch wide black for shoulder bells, etc. (4 ft.)  2 inch wide white for ab/back plate shoulder connection (1 ft.), 1 inch wide white for drop boxes, (1 ft.) 1/4 inch wide white** (1 ft.) for shoulder straps.
 
What I would like to know is, if you buy a pack of 2-inch wide elastic, can you cut it to a 1-inch wide? or will it cause the elastic to fray and fall apart?

It would fray eventually. You’ll see when you cut your elastic and nylon for strapping that you’ll get fraying. You can always burn those stray threads, which is what I did. But you’re better off buying a couple of the thinner one if that’s what you need.


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On 11/26/2018 at 8:14 PM, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

Here's a photo of the opening closest to the wrist. The kit came pre-trimmed, so there isn't a return edge, though I could probably shave it down another mm or so.

tAuUJPP.jpg

Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.  After I glued on my cover strips and let things set for several days, I did a hot water bath of the forearms to round out the opening at the elbow.  This really helped to relax the tightness on my forearm muscle and made it fit my arm shape much better.

 

Mark

 

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Looking great, Mark!  Since you are aiming for Centurion (:jc_doublethumbup:), you will need to take out all the return edges off of the wrist, especially in the "bump" area.  Note the complete absence of one on all sides in the screen used one in the photo on the right.  2 minutes with a Dremel and you will be golden!

                                                                                                         Reference image

xABmO2U.jpg   XKuPOVI.jpg?1

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It's been awhile since my last update, but I've done quite a bit. This little guy has been helping me out!

xhp45cu.jpg

 

BICEPS:

I attempted the 15mm cover strips on the biceps, thinking that I could keep them uniform with the forearms, but when I took a step back and looked in the mirror, the light would really bounce off those exposed ridges, so I decided I needed to cut them down as much as I possibly can. I cut the strips wider, and though there is still a little ridge exposed, it's not nearly as bad as it was before.

 

Here are some shots of the finished biceps

jrMBttk.jpg DjHVLiN.jpg

 

FOREARMS:

I also finished up the forearms and got them to use the standard size cover strips. They are fit just perfectly along my entire forearm. I haven't shaved down the return edge around the wrist just yet, but I will do that soon.

egCnTZI.jpg m4gQy5f.jpg

 

LEFT SHIN:

The shins were fun and I'm learning that every single piece requires a LOT of research. The Sniper Knee required a little bit of improvisation so it looks a little less crooked, but I think it turned out quite well.

HlkTrjH.jpg XGc8cSK.jpg Yn3e9yr.jpg 

 

RIGHT SHIN:

aXzv8Cu.jpg GdaODQN.jpg

 

LEFT THIGH:

s6B3u3g.jpg eMEytnS.jpg

I have to get the heatgun or hot water bathe the little gap shut at the bottom.

 

RIGHT THIGH:

LRZPiku.jpg kqGhRYJ.jpg rxctQsM.jpg

I still have to paint the rivet white, but I think it turned out well. 

 

THERMAL DETONATOR:

This wasn't too hard to do. I painted the tube, dried it almost immediately with my heatgun, then followed Uswrath's thread on here to finish it up. The tape is just holding the white piece on while the glue dries. I then touched up some paint and it's now drying. I'll add some finished photos soon!

491Wy5M.jpg IFTTI4p.jpg 

 

BUTTON PAINTING:

So I had a good lesson in how NOT to paint buttons. I tried doing it all at once in one thick layer. It ran everywhere and ended up like this:

7wyAqeC.jpg 

 

I cleaned it completely and did it over two thin layers and it's much better. I still need to clean up the edges a little, but it's getting there.

FVNHRot.jpg

 

HANDGUARDS:
Okay, looks like I need some help here. I tried glueing the rubber handguards I got from the AP kit onto the gloves supplied in the AP kit with e-6000, and it didn't stick at all. After 24 hours, it just fell off when I removed the tape holding them on. This was the result:

9rVK5R0.jpg

 

I tried removing all of the glue, then using CA glue. That didn't work. Then I tried using CA glue with an activator and that didn't work either.  That's why the left glove looks like it has a smaller amount of glue on it. I was experimenting with that one. I tried washing everything, roughing it up with sandpaper too. Nothing is working. Heeeeelllp.

 

Thanks for reading and all of the help!

Edited by Mr_Fahrenheit

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For the hand guards do they have cloth backing? I got mine from Joseph and had no issues with em, but they have a layer of duck cloth imbedded in them. I just rough up the gloves a bit and no issue.

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41 minutes ago, Rat said:

For the hand guards do they have cloth backing? I got mine from Joseph and had no issues with em, but they have a layer of duck cloth imbedded in them. I just rough up the gloves a bit and no issue.

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
 

No, they are just rubber with no cloth backing. Very smooth/slippery to touch. I tried sanding the backs a bit but it didn’t do much, if anything. 

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4 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

 

HANDGUARDS:
Okay, looks like I need some help here. I tried glueing the rubber handguards I got from the AP kit onto the gloves supplied in the AP kit with e-6000, and it didn't stick at all. After 24 hours, it just fell off when I removed the tape holding them on. This was the result:

9rVK5R0.jpg

 

I tried removing all of the glue, then using CA glue. That didn't work. Then I tried using CA glue with an activator and that didn't work either.  That's why the left glove looks like it has a smaller amount of glue on it. I was experimenting with that one. I tried washing everything, roughing it up with sandpaper too. Nothing is working. Heeeeelllp. 

 

Thanks for reading and all of the help!

I used loctite plastic bonding system.  Worked like a charm.  Other companies make the same product - I've used a couple different ones.

 

loctite-super-glue-681925-64_1000.jpg

Edited by wook1138

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By the way - awesome progress so far!  Looks great!

Edited by wook1138

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Loctite will do the trick. I have the same kit and had the same issues with the gloves. Loctite also dries very quickly.


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I couldn't remember where I had seen the solution to this issue. Thanks for filling that in.

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2 hours ago, wook1138 said:

I used loctite plastic bonding system.  Worked like a charm.  Other companies make the same product - I've used a couple different ones.

Damn, I read that on a few threads too and was hoping I didn’t have to buy more stuff.... buuuut if I must! Thanks for the tip!

 

2 hours ago, wook1138 said:

By the way - awesome progress so far!  Looks great!

Thanks!

 

12 minutes ago, Bud Spaklur said:

Loctite will do the trick. I have the same kit and had the same issues with the gloves. Loctite also dries very quickly.


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Thanks! Actually, come to think of it, I’d get a lot of use out of this for my 3D prints. I’m even thinking of 3D printing my entire blaster, if I can find the files for free/cheap.

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2 minutes ago, Rat said:

I couldn't remember where I had seen the solution to this issue. Thanks for filling that in.

Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk
 

Yeah, I think I’m just going to continue using this thread as a progress/question dump, then when I’m done, actually organize everything and create another, fully linked thread with all of the problems and solutions I came across. Maybe it’ll help some others!

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Actually, anyone from Canada know where I can buy that kind of loctite? Can’t seem to find it online.

 

There’s glue from LePage that keeps popping up in search results, anyone know if this is good, or have recommendations on a different brand?

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Actually, anyone from Canada know where I can buy that kind of loctite? Can’t seem to find it online.
 
There’s glue from LePage that keeps popping up in search results, anyone know if this is good, or have recommendations on a different brand?

I’ve used lepage’s stuff from Canadian Tire. Works just as well.


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