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Mr_Fahrenheit

AP Armour - Trimmed - ANH Centurion - First Build Thread

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The only thing I can comment on is that it seems sort of light. Like it isn't dark enough.

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Get someone to take a photo with you wearing it, see if your eyes can be seen ;) 

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15 hours ago, Rat said:

The only thing I can comment on is that it seems sort of light. Like it isn't dark enough.

 

15 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

Get someone to take a photo with you wearing it, see if your eyes can be seen ;) 

Thanks for the feedback! The picture with the bright green lenses was when it was held up against the overhanging light. Here is what it looks like in a normally lit room with the camera flash on:

pZw1sCV.jpg OCvAAOe.jpg

 

The film is still on the lenses, which, when removed, may make a little lighter. But I still don't think they'll be able to see my eyes.  Thoughts?

Edited by Mr_Fahrenheit

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Just did the first layer of the black lines everywhere...

flR5Od7.jpg pVMNe0A.jpg d9K4Cad.jpg

Kind of a hack job, but it's the first layer. I'll touch it up over the next few days, then clean up the edges with some mineral spirits and I'm confident it will look alright when it's all done.

 

Tell me... what do you see...

XLFQ9jv.jpg

 

Thanks for any feedback!

Edited by Mr_Fahrenheit
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5 hours ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

Thanks for any feedback!

Nice job:duim: Personally I would try to go a bit thinner on pin stripes and outlines all around and you don`t have to redo the bottom line on the fronts; the ones without the pin striping, as that will be hidden by the browtrim:salute:

AZzAWgf.jpg

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On 9/27/2018 at 4:26 AM, TheSwede said:

Personally I would try to go a bit thinner on pin stripes and outlines all around

Thanks for the feedback! I took some toothpicks to the edges and did some touch ups on the bars. I feel like it's looking much better.  It was actually pretty easy, but lengthy to do it, and it just shows you that you can really fix anything if you mess it up.

 

Here are some before and after shots:

First attempt:

vV3cPrr.jpg d9K4Cad.jpg flR5Od7.jpg PVbAdzM.jpg

 

After some toothpick-edging! (don't pay attention to the Tube Stripe stuff in these photos.. I have a section for that just underneath)

6qUgGm1.jpg M0nwnUL.jpg m0ChGLI.jpg wfQMyOY.jpg

 

TUBE STRIPES

I also took a stab at the tube stripes. Still have some toothpick-edging to do once it dries, but here was what I've done so far:

 

I started by taking the decals that came with the AP kit, then cut them out. I labeled them JUST in case I screwed everything up and wanted to actually use them in the same order. I also trimmed it down to only 14 tube stripes per side:

m8i3Nw7.jpg sre3WPZ.jpg

 

I then stuck that on as the decal, making sure it was pencil width away from the cheeks, then painted over it with a thin coat of white paint:

GEwWPmG.jpg aHNhDYH.jpg

 

Once it dried, I did a light layer of the blue, then let it dry. Then I did a heavy coat of the blue. 

fDgy8g5.jpg bB8s7OU.jpg

 

After it dried enough (maybe 2 hours), I removed the faux-stencils, and now I'm just waiting for it to dry completely. I thought that maybe I could toothpick-edge it while it was still wet, but, as you can see from the last image, it just smudges the paint. So once it dries I'll go over the edges with the toothpick and it should look alright! (I hope)

w1bqZ39.jpg F871RIb.jpg

 

Thanks! Any feedback is always appreciated :)

Edited by Mr_Fahrenheit
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Black lines look much better. :duim: If you are using Humbrol paint, I find the blue can take a long time to dry enough to scrap away.  At least a day depending on temp and humidity.  I did the same thing with mine - luckily even the smudges will scrape off once dry (you might need a bit of mineral spirit on the toothpick, but it is doable). 

 

Nice work!

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Looks good.

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Quick update - I touched up the paint on the tube stripes using a mix of toothpicking and mineral spirits. It took awhile, but it looks way better!

eU8N5bI.png dxFxSoO.png

 

I also then added the mesh to the frown.

UPtPvJT.jpg wsIFgIn.jpg

 

FOR THE MESH:

I used hot glue on the inside, and it first it didn't work, but then I figured out how to fix it. Adding glue to the plastic and then sticking the mesh on won't work. But adding the glue to the ABS, then adding then mesh, THEN adding another layer of glue, basically traps the mesh in between the two layers. Now I can actually lift the helmet by the mesh inside of it. We'll see how long it holds!

 

I'll update my main helmet post with this update, as now the helmet is pretty much done (on the outside). Just need to get the S-Trim.

 

Thanks for any feedback!

Edited by Mr_Fahrenheit
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I just used E-6000 and no problems so far.

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Question about the boots:

What do you think about these ones? They have a seam at the back, but there's nothing in the Centurion rules that mention it.. just that it can't have a seam on the front. 

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Requisite-Glendale-Riding-Jodhpur-Equestrian/dp/B01K2FFYKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538378705&sr=8-1&keywords=Jodhpur+boots+men 

 

I just don't know which ones to get. TK Boots isn't selling them in my size anymore... and I haven't heard as many good reviews of Imperial Boots as TK Boots. Also, I have very wide feet, and apparently TK Boots had an option for people with wider feet.

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The rear seam is on the TKBoots as well. I don't see why these wouldn't be Centurion approvable. There could be something I'm missing, but they seem to fit the CRL's.

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1 hour ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

Question about the boots:

What do you think about these ones? They have a seam at the back, but there's nothing in the Centurion rules that mention it.. just that it can't have a seam on the front. 

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Requisite-Glendale-Riding-Jodhpur-Equestrian/dp/B01K2FFYKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538378705&sr=8-1&keywords=Jodhpur+boots+men 

 

I just don't know which ones to get. TK Boots isn't selling them in my size anymore... and I haven't heard as many good reviews of Imperial Boots as TK Boots. Also, I have very wide feet, and apparently TK Boots had an option for people with wider feet.

Those should be just fine once you get them dyed.  As for Imperial boots, I have 2 pairs, could not be happier, and have never heard anything negative about them.  The only things is that they make them in "waves" (which, if you check their site should be right now).  Also, order a size larger than you normally wear, as they can run a bit small.  Shipping is fast once they make them... (mine only took about 8 days), and communication with the company was great.

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7 hours ago, justjoseph63 said:

Those should be just fine once you get them dyed.  As for Imperial boots, I have 2 pairs, could not be happier, and have never heard anything negative about them.  The only things is that they make them in "waves" (which, if you check their site should be right now).  Also, order a size larger than you normally wear, as they can run a bit small.  Shipping is fast once they make them... (mine only took about 8 days), and communication with the company was great.

Okay that’s good feedback. Thanks! 

 

Does anyone have experience shipping them from Canada? I can’t order them on their site now so I can’t see how much shipping will be. 

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7 hours ago, Rat said:

The rear seam is on the TKBoots as well. I don't see why these wouldn't be Centurion approvable. There could be something I'm missing, but they seem to fit the CRL's.

Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
 

Okay great. I’m Going to weight the financial pros and cons of imperial boots vs these, vs any other suggestions I can get. So if anyone has experience shipping imperial boots to Canada, I’d love to know how much you paid.

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34 minutes ago, Mr_Fahrenheit said:

Okay that’s good feedback. Thanks! 

 

Does anyone have experience shipping them from Canada? I can’t order them on their site now so I can’t see how much shipping will be. 

I ordered from Imperial Boots last year and shipping was $35 US to Canada.

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On 10/1/2018 at 10:26 AM, Suspend said:

I ordered from Imperial Boots last year and shipping was $35 US to Canada.

Thanks, Suspend. So after crunching the numbers. To get the Classic 421s off of Imperial Boots, it's going to cost about $140 Canadian dollars, plus taxes. The description even reads that they are a narrow fit, and that I should order a size above. Does that mean a full size or a half size above? I'm a 10.5, and they have 11s but no 11.5. I'm a bit worried because I do have fat feet.

 

The other next best option I can find are these boots plus this paint, which would total about $105 Canadian dollars, plus taxes. The boot seams look identical in every way, but my main concern is that the top is too wide, and may interfere with the shin pieces.. 

 

 

One option I was thinking was to buy them off amazon once my shin pieces are complete and try them out, and if they do interfere, I can always return them pretty easily...

 

hmmmmm... decisions...

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Great job so far!:duim:

Helmets coming along nicely!

When I started I did the painted Chelsea boots. Movie accurate and a complete pain in the bantha. After a couple troops they looked dingy and already showed wear. New boots were needed. I bought my first pair from IB and I never would look anywhere else. They wrap around your ankle snug. Which helps big time for shin creep!. TK's looked great but like Chelsea have a larger ankle opening. You won't be disappointed with IB. Like Joseph said, order in wave and shipping is quick. Ordering one size larger is a must. Your 10.5 is a tough call for you. 11's would fit but how much room and 12"s might be to loose. Decisions, Decisions:6:

 

Good advice is grab your boots and undersuit now. They're essential in the sizing /fitting aspect of it.

 

Keep up the good work!:duim:

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Well it just so happens that I'm also a 10.5 and I went with the Imperial Boots 11's.  There's lots of room in the toe area.  In my opinion the toe area borders between an 11 or even a bit larger so that won't be in issue.  On the sides they do fit snug.  Not painful or even tight....just snug.

 

I did a lot of research before buying mine.  TK Boots was just shutting down but still had size 10's.  I found out that you can stretch leather boots up to a full size larger using a shoe stretcher device.  But in the end I opted for the size 11 Imperial's because I didn't know how small the 10's would actually be.  I think Imperial Boots are fantastic.

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On 10/3/2018 at 6:55 AM, Suspend said:

Well it just so happens that I'm also a 10.5 and I went with the Imperial Boots 11's.  There's lots of room in the toe area.  In my opinion the toe area borders between an 11 or even a bit larger so that won't be in issue.  On the sides they do fit snug.  Not painful or even tight....just snug.

Okay, that's super helpful. I think I'm sold on Imperial Boots. And worst case scenario, they are too tight, and I'll throw them up on the marketplace here or something... Or I'll just make them fit, damnit! 

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